Video summary
The episode focuses on low-tech winter gardening strategies designed to extend the growing season in Zone 5A/5B climates by treating the garden as an outdoor refrigerator that sustains plants through freezing temperatures rather than forcing new growth. Success relies heavily on selecting winter-hardy varieties like cabbage and Brussels sprouts, which survive better due to their dry matter content compared to high-water-content vascular tissues found in fast-growing crops. Gardeners are advised to start slowly with winterization efforts, utilizing well-drained, dark-colored soil and mulch to maintain even temperatures while avoiding nitrogen-heavy fertilizers in the fall that could lead to weak stems. Creating microclimates using stone walls, south-facing slopes, or existing structures can effectively raise the hardiness zone by one or two degrees, a practical advantage identified by observing where snow melts fastest on the property.
Protection against wind and cold is achieved through various infrastructure options, ranging from simple row covers made of horticultural fleece to more permanent glass structures like Dutch lights and cold frames. These covers must be carefully managed; they should be ventilated on warm days to prevent overheating but secured firmly against winter winds, with a specific recommendation to avoid cross-ventilation to retain heat. For larger-scale projects, tension wire from chain-link fence suppliers can create affordable hoop houses, while greenhouses offer the ability to extend the season by a month or two despite their high cost and historical origins. To further improve insulation within these structures, techniques include using double-walled plastic with active blowers, constructing thermal mass walls with water containers, installing masonry heaters, or utilizing earth tubes for passive temperature regulation.
Beyond structural protection, the discussion highlights specific case studies and biological methods to sustain plants in extreme conditions. Examples include Chinese greenhouses featuring rammed earth back walls and rice straw mats, semi-in-ground Walipini structures built with earth bags that maintained temperatures above 23°F without artificial heat, and compost greenhouses that use horse manure to generate necessary heat and carbon dioxide. While artificially warmed beds can extend the season, caution is urged regarding bacterial risks like E. coli if raw greens are grown directly on such heated surfaces. Practical management involves monitoring soil moisture with fingers to prevent root freeze while allowing air temperatures to drop, as well as addressing pest challenges such as mice and voles in straw mulch through traps or pellets, acknowledging that cooler springs pose a greater threat due to fungal activity than the winter itself.
Ultimately, winter gardening is presented as an experimental endeavor that requires accepting higher risks and adopting an Integrated Pest Management approach where the healthiest plants are harvested first. The host emphasizes the importance of saving seeds with detailed notes on weather conditions to track variety performance over time, ensuring that gardeners can adapt their selections based on local climate data. By combining these methodological adaptations—from soil preparation and microclimate creation to infrastructure management and biological heating—gardeners can successfully cultivate crops like spinach and kale for raw consumption during the winter months. The segment concludes by reinforcing the mission of the Low Tech Institute, encouraging listeners to embrace a mindset that balances innovation with the practical realities of surviving cold winters without relying on excessive technology.
Read the full video transcript
[Music]
in early February we were at the
Wisconsin garden expo where I presented
and we tabled last time we heard about
gardening in a warmer more variable
environment and this week we'll be going
the other way talking about winter
gardening this is the lowtech podcast
hello and welcome to another break from
our current season I'm Scott Johnson
from the low technology Institute your
host for podcast number 78 on March 8th
2024 coming to you from the lowtech
recording booth thanks for joining us
we're still taking a break from our tour
of cooksville in 2100 to hear about how
gardeners can extend their growing
season into the winter this was recorded
live at the Wisconsin Garden Expo and
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details again we're about to get going
with the recording but two housekeeping
items first
uh first this is a live recording
unedited so the quality may be slightly
less than usual and also the slides
referenced and the talk are available on
our website's blog or can be seen if
you're watching this on YouTube
enjoy today uh I'll be talking about
four season growing in Wisconsin um who
am I I'm Scott I run the low technology
Institute and we think a lot about how
we're going to be living in the year
2100 uh in terms of Four Season
gardening uh that might be pretty easy
for us as we will be probably losing our
worst month by the year 2100 our growing
season will be very different we'll have
lost our coldest month and we'll gain a
new hot month in the middle so if you
like tomatoes that's good for you um and
if you like keeping your plants alive
through the winter that's also good for
you um you know there's obviously some
negative repercussions to warming
temperatures but I'm not talking about
those today um yeah so like I said these
slides will all be up on our website uh
shortly we also have a podcast called
the lowtech podcast and we put that on
YouTube as well as the usual podcast um
apps and places uh and I'll have these
slides as the background so if you
missed anything I can listen to this all
over relive the experience all right
today's uh topics are uh Baseline
assumptions uh Baseline and assumptions
biological adaptations methodological
adaptations and infrastructure uh so
that's kind of how we're split up now
the first thing to think about is where
are we we are in why are my notes not
coming up that's not good Ah that's not
good it's okay I have came prepared um
we are in DF a or a uh Continental humid
climate with a hot summer that'd be Zone
5A and 5B that's where we are right now
obviously this will be changing over
time but that was my last talk I gave a
talk uh yesterday and the day before
about gardening and a warming Wisconsin
so I'm really bracketing both ends of
things here um so yeah we're right there
on the edge depending on where you came
from you might be 5A or 5B or maybe
somewhere farther a field welcome
assumptions okay so today uh I said four
season gardening I could have said
winter gardening cuz really honestly I'm
not going to get too much into the
summer other than how you can better
prepare for fall uh winter and spring
gardening uh so I'm going to assume that
we all have some background knowledge
about growing during the regular season
so I'm not going to spend a lot of time
on that um I'm hoping that you might
have some experience with seeds starting
things like that because sometimes I'm
going to suggest experiments that are
better uh if you can start your own
seeds rather than having to buy them in
just for you know economy sake um so
yeah I'm going to be talking about
extending the season into the fall into
the winter starting earlier in the
spring or continuing from the fall
straight through into the spring um I'm
going to touch a little bit on indoor
gardening uh there was I really wish
this talk had been earlier in this in
the uh week uh weekend because there
were some indoor gardening talks that
would have been helpful because I'm not
going to talk about dedicated indoor
gardening I'm going to touch on bringing
outside stuff in um and all the
bugginess that that could entail um and
fun that can be uh but I'm not going to
talk about starting growing uh the
entire life cycle of a plant indoors
although that would be a method to grow
in the winter I'm just not going to get
into Hydroponics or anything like that
um some winter crops uh are for direct
eating others are for uh keeping viable
plants in stasis but uh I don't I'm not
going to get into or really talk about
the the likelihood of us starting
growing and expanding uh a lot of plants
in the winter really winter uh and late
season growing early season growing is
really just about keeping plants alive
and really making your garden into an
outdoor refrigerator uh so you can take
from that all winter or go into the
spring with incredibly
large mature plants that then explode
once the the temperatures warm up again
so it's uh getting a really early start
you think you're getting an early start
on the season by starting your seats now
imagine if you had started them in
August right like that's going to be a
lot a lot more uh if you can keep them
alive through the winter um so a lot of
the information and uh images will come
from books that'll be listed at the end
of the publication again publication
will be on our website tomorrow morning
on our blog um so couple caveats so we
like to talk about full sun well
remember full sun in the winter is like
5 hours which is not really full sun and
it's a glancing sun right like so the
the angle of the Sun is going to be
putting out less watts per square meter
or however you want to measure it uh so
there's just less sunlight so that's why
we're really not talking about putting
on growth in the winter we're going to
be keeping things alive they're going to
put on their growth in the fall and then
hopefully just maintain that trinter um
even if cold hearty the plants really
aren't putting on a a lot of green
growth in the winter so you're just
keeping your cabbage and your brussels
sprouts um winter hearty varieties are
slow growing they're often short stubby
and they have a lot of dry matter why is
that well dry matter doesn't freeze if
you have really leggy tall quick growing
plants so you put on a lot of uh
nitrogen fertilizer for example uh those
will freeze a lot easier and they're not
going to survive uh into the winter
months um so their problem is these
types of varieties are uh um not as
economically viable they don't grow as
fast so there's not as much market for
them so you have to kind of look around
uh Seed Savers is one place Bakers uh
there's a couple others that have these
specialized varieties that are a little
slower growing um and are for the kind
of specialized uh Winter Market I always
recommend people do AB testing now if
you've never tried to keep something
alive through the winter then you're
just doing a testing I guess B testing
would just be letting it die uh but AB
testing means do what you usually do and
then do half uh of what you're doing a
new way and then you can see does this
do better than the way I've done it
before or not because a lot of times I
have people I grow a lot of potatoes
I've done a lot of potato research for a
small scale and folks will come up to me
and say oh last year I grew my potatoes
like this and it worked out great I said
okay compared to what well just great
like well okay maybe it was a great
season and you could have just thrown
potatoes in a pile of leaves and they
would have done great right so you need
to have that comparison and so I really
encourage people anytime you're taking
on a new method or a new idea or even a
new plant variety do AB testing do what
has worked for you in the past and then
try something new next to it and see
which one works better for you and then
take the winner of that and do more AB
testing or if you're really into it do
ABCDE EF testing you know uh but uh that
way you're likely to get something that
you've had success with before or maybe
you'll find something new that works
better uh with less risk of losing
everything if you're be if you just try
the new thing and it fails um and saving
your seeds again I'm coming at the tail
end of the garden expo but there there's
a lot of resources out there for you to
uh be able to learn to save seeds uh
take notes um I I'm going to develop I
came up with this product in my last
talk um I'm coming up with a garden
calendar or a garden um a notebook for
you and it's going to be perfectly
tailored for the garden notetaker half
of the book is going to be March April
May and then the last little bit of the
book a couple of pages is going to be
July August September because that's
exactly how much Garden notes we take
we're all very good note takers in the
first 3 months of the gardening season
and then in the last couple of months
you could put it on a postcard um guilty
also so um but it is important to save
your seeds uh with notes so that you
know oh we had a really hard winter we
had a really easy fall we had you know
really wet fall um so that you know
which varieties are working better for
you in these different conditions not
that we can necessarily predict is this
going to be a wet uh and warm win uh
fall and winter or is it going to be a
dry and cold one we don't we can't
predict that but what we can do is if we
know we have you know hot or cold wet or
dry there's only four real options that
you're dealing with and so if you have
four varieties that you plant going into
the winter with knowing that three of
them are legely going to die or possibly
going to die or do not as well as the
one uh you're going to get something to
survive the winter um and if you're
saving your own seeds that doesn't cost
you very much right because the seed
cost is essentially just your own time
which is invaluable I know all of our
time is invaluable um all right I don't
get paid by the hour any I don't get
let's not get into that okay specific
varieties so before I put up the next
slide and I see you all pull out your
cell phones and take pictures I have
these what's on this next slide as a
handout and I probably have enough for
everybody otherwise it's going to be at
our booth or online so deep breath
there's going to be a whole bunch of
varieties here you don't need to
memorize them yeah that's why like I
said these are on the website I prepared
you and I still got an O Okay um so yeah
these are just a a collection of
suggested from various winter gardening
sources of varieties that do well um in
the winter in cold weather they have
their approximate temperature gradients
and this doesn't mean that's the
temperature your thermometer says that
means that's the temperature in the bed
where it's living and we're going to
talk about how we can you know uh really
try and save ourselves with the
mechanical stuff later on we're still
talking about varieties so these are
some of those that uh if you can find
them uh are likely to do a little bit
better again I have a handout so don't
worry uh I'm going to move away from
this now did anyone get them all written
down no okay um see me afterwards if you
did you're be a speed reading Champion
okay um couple of warnings when we start
talking now we're going to talk about
methodological adaptations so whatever
you do start slow don't say I'm going to
winterize my entire garden and I you
spend thousands of dollars and hundreds
of hours your first year try a better
two right like try work up to this um I
don't take that advice but I should no
um I'm getting better at taking that
advice as I get um and also think about
uh how you eat and what you eat raw
veggies have a lot more nutrients so
think about planting things for the
winter that are going to be uh more
easily eaten uh raw or at least close to
Raw things like spinach kale lettuce um
are are often better better choices than
things that need a lot of preparation
where you're going to lose a lot of
those nutrients right cuz you're going
to be getting lettuce of them but you're
going to be getting some green in the
winter which is nice um again let me
stress again you expect very little
growth in the winter we're converting
our garden into basically storage space
and stasis for plants rather than uh
somewhere that's going to put on a lot
of green leafy growth in the winter just
not we just don't have the solar uh
energy so um one thing that we can do
think about your soil uh soil drainage
is a big factor low low spots collect
water and cold air and so if you have a
well- drained soil um it can uh keep
plants from suffocating uh their roots
from suffocating as uh as that water
pools and accumulates and doesn't get uh
transpired or moved around by the usual
processes that are at play in the summer
um and you can get rotting in your roots
and then the plant dies uh so you could
go as far as installing drain tile or a
raised bed with a good draining soil U
maybe picking four beds or so that
you're going to convert into your winter
beds and and putting a bit of investment
into having a well- drained soil there
um or I had a a person in a previous
talk who lived on Sand so she's already
set but then she has to try and build up
nutrients anyway so that's a different
kettle of fish um sand already drains
well it warms and cools really quickly
which can be a detriment in the winter
if it cools too quickly um but if it's
cooling without moisture in it it's less
detrimental to the plants than freezing
solid with lots of moisture in there
silter clay LOM like what I'm on is as
clay uh is slower to warm but also
slower to cool so you'll get a bit of
attenuation into the fall but it does
drain poorly so I try and grow on top of
that dark soil obviously absorbs and
maintains heat better so dark mulch I'm
a big uh mulch fan uh is a is a is an
option that can help uh push the season
a little farther if you have that dark
mulch rather than straw which is light
colored and bounces a lot of um of solar
radiation off obviously we want to build
up a large hummus layer um that's air
rated pH stable it'll hold a more even
temperature nutrient dense I mean it's
not rocket science to say the better
your soil is the more the better your
plants are going to do um so we're all
working towards that anyway um so yeah
compost compost compost uh as much as
okay so what does good soil well-
drained soil look like uh it's loose and
has good gr growth but not the type that
has uh jumping worms go through it uh
that's not the type of looseness that
I'm talking about um I did a vermac
compost talk and everyone's asking me
about vermac compost or about jumping
worms which thank goodness I luckily I
don't have experience with but I know
others have and it sounds pretty nasty
um bright soil color not Dull we all
yeah you've seen that bright healthy
looking soil uh looks like it's uh very
happy that dull uh sheen on it is really
frustrating um earthworms insects are in
it although in the winter they're all
going to go down and become dormant
water obviously uh drains well through
well- drained soil that's kind of self
fulfilling there um you really want that
moist cakey type of uh feel rather than
a uh a Soden uh sponge or anything like
that crumbly texture and a balanced pH
again gold standard we can't get
everything um so soil nutrients again
composting building up the soil's
nutrients is more important in Winter
and it's also important going into the
winter so in that fall you don't want to
throw on a ton of nitrogen you don't
want to build up a lot of green leafy
growth that has a lot of vascular tissue
that's going to hold a lot of water
because that water freezes and can help
kill the plant more quickly so it's a
balanced slow growing approach slow and
steady will win the race in the winter U
manure is okay uh evaluate your Source
obviously um I get a lot of manure nor
from a local horse stable uh again you
don't want to over apply that nitrogen
go for a balance that too much quick
growth in the fall like I said weakens
the stems they Die slow and steady say
it again um cover crops particularly
Clover I like Clover uh is easier to cut
and work into the soil than cover crops
used with bigger equipment so there's a
lot of winter rise stuff like that
perfectly fine if you've been doing that
and it's working for you great I like
Clover because you can just kind of turn
it right in uh to the soil um and I put
that in a lot of my beds I wouldn't
necessarily be trying to overwinter this
but this is a good uh thing to toss into
beds before they go to sleep in the
winter clover will do fairly well in
pretty cold temperatures anyway um so
mulch big fan of mulch if you were at
any of my talks yesterday probably spent
half the time talking about mulch uh
straw can insulate but like I said straw
will bounce a lot of the sun off the
soil so straw isn't necessarily the best
bet uh dark mulch which can absorb heat
and regulate moisture but I'm not
talking about wood chips wood chips will
uh sap a lot of nitrogen out of the soil
although if you're applying a lot of
nitr fertilizer maybe that would no uh
generally speaking wood chips will uh
sap too much nitrogen out of the soil
and aren't as good uh but a dark
vegetative uh mulches can be really
helpful it absorbs heat it regulates
moisture because even though we're in
the middle of winter you're still on a
warm day every couple of weeks you're
still going to want a garden uh uh water
and I'll get to irrigation here in a
minute um o sorry have a little more
oops uh root vegetables can be heavily
mulched for over wintering so instead of
storing your carrots in your basement in
a pile of sand like I do uh you can
actually if you can keep the ground from
freezing you can mulch them pretty
heavily um and then go through and dig
them in the winter on warm days um for
or you can be trying to overwinter uh a
few uh carrots for seeds the next year
because they'll take a year and a half
to seed um too much sawas or wood chips
again saps nitrogen from the soil you
are best uh your best bet is to apply
mulch before the ground freezes once the
the ground freezes it mulch will just
keep it frozen longer so you want to get
that Mulch on there uh in earlier in the
fall and so uh obviously mulch uh is a
organic adjunct and will break down and
add uh nourishment to your soil
suppresses weeds which I'm going to get
to here in a minute regulates moisture
and temperature prevents erosions all
great things uh that we want to be
looking for in the winter um sighting in
microclimates so again my my small joke
here is that microclimates would be what
I would call kids laser tags if I were
going to open one uh but microzones can
be created but with as little as a stone
wall or other infrastructure plants uh
trees things like that in your garden uh
they can bump up your gardening zone uh
a zone or even two if you're depending
on how you're doing it so uh right now
we're in 5A but if I put this stone wall
running east to west in my garden in
front of it that might be you know six
or maybe even seven and behind it might
be a four right and so for the winter
obviously we're going to want to be
growing in front of it bit uh because
that's going to help maintain and
radiate that that the few sunny days
we've had lately uh uh but it will help
radiate that heat and maintain that heat
uh into the bed south facing slopes beds
south of a building walls or even uh an
arbor V uh can give a little bit extra
sun and temps through the winter um and
protection from northern winds so even
like uh sometimes old farm buildings
would be built uh around a central uh
yard and Central yard would be protected
on multiple sides to help uh keep it a
little extra warm in that in that little
patio area um and that could be a good
gardening spot um and then there's of
course you know using valleys or um
larger scale topograph to site your
plant um Hedges are great but they're
really slow to mature so if you were
putting Hedges along the north uh a
North edge of a growing space um that's
great but uh it may take a little while
walls are good um although actually
Hedges are better in some ways because
uh walls will create a backdraft and it
will actually drop if it's a cold North
Wind it can drop a lot of snow and cold
uh right after that wall and create a
circulation whereas a little bit of air
passing through uh makes less of a low
pressure Zone and so the Winter Wind can
actually blow off of those crops so uh
it's it's nice if you can get a little
bit of pass through on those walls that
are preventing those cold North winds
from coming in um also think about cold
air kind of like a water right it sinks
into low spots and will sit there so if
you have uh a completely solidly fenced
yard and it gets full of cold air coming
in from the north uh it can just be held
in there whereas if you let that cold
air seep out on the southern side uh you
might you're going to be better off so
so for example this is my backyard um in
my garden and these are kind of like my
microclimates and the way that I did
this is well one way uh which is kind of
nice right now and especially for winter
gardening this is applicable go into
your garden ah most of us have at least
in my garden the snow is pretty much
gone but if we get a snow and then we
get a sunny day walk through there a few
times and watch where the snow melts
first where the snow melts first are
good spots potential spots for winter
garden beds because those are getting
the most Sun for some reason that snow
is melting off of there faster um those
are really great spots to be think about
your winter beds in the summer things
might be slightly different cuz the
leaves will have uh leafed out on the
trees but for me what I did in the
summer for my different microclimates
was I looked um I went out every hour on
the hour and I marked where had Sun so
each one of these is how many hours of
Sun and so I have my hot spots I have my
cool spots um and I plant accordingly
like right here behind my this is North
over here this is South down here right
here behind my house uh I have probably
Zone Seven it's uh protected by the
garage and then trees and then trees and
it's a nice really warm uh growing space
so I can grow some pretty Southern stuff
there uh in the winter it's also pretty
nice um and then yeah it it varies
through the yart but you can do this
with yourself uh if we get another good
blanket of snow and then a warm sunny
day walk through and look where melts
first um and that can uh be a good guide
for you so every variety is different um
some need to be mature before they
freeze others need to be mostly done
with growth um others can be really
small and make it through the winter it
depends on the Garden or it depends on
the um on on the variety and um so
you're going to want to time your fall
plantings just like you carefully follow
your uh time your spring planting so
that you have a appropriate amount of
growth a lot of things like cabbages uh
and brussel sprouts you'll want to have
pretty much fully grown by the time it
starts to freeze real hard if you want
to be picking mature because they're not
going to put on any more growth if
you're trying to get your starts going
for the spring already in the fall and
you just want them to get mature enough
um that's a different story they don't
have to be quite as big all right I have
what's on the next slide also on the
handout so you don't have to freak out
um
so this is from territorial your results
May Vary um but this is a good place to
start uh this is a really great chart of
stuff to start going into the winter
when you could start it um how large you
want it to get before you're
transplanting um it has Frost hardiness
it has all kinds of useful information
on here so worth uh having a start here
and then modify according um it doesn't
have dates on here because it's kind of
a space agnostic I mean I guess it does
have dates but we can shift these uh
depending on where you are uh it it'll
take trial and air because your backyard
your garden space might be a slightly
warmer one than your neighbors right so
it's it's very individualistic all right
beds um you need to space them out a
little bit more in the winter uh you
can't have as much tight spacing as you
can get away with in the summer just
because the solar resources are so much
uh less and also you want to encourage
large Roots um which will help support
them through the winter rais beds are a
great option because raised beds have
frames that you can attach things to uh
because you know I love to accessorize
uh for the winter uh and for our
purposes accessories are things like row
covers that we're going to talk about in
a little bit but having that raised bed
frame work is really helpful for
attaching things to also keeps you from
walking on them uh they're often better
drained so raised beds are a great
candidate um all things being equal for
your winter beds rather than in ground
in ground's great you can do a lot with
inground but rais beds are a little more
easy to work with easier to work with
Okay weeds and yes so this we're not
just you know it's not just going to be
your cabbage that lives through the
winter because you're going to make this
little microbiome for them to live in uh
we're going to have or microzone uh
we're going to have a great environment
for weeds and pests to go through the
winter too hooray hooray um so this is
in one of my I call them pods uh one of
my little uh obviously uh I needed to
weed that before the winter um and I
hadn't opened this in months and I
popped it open I'm like oh crap uh and
all of my cabbages and these cabbages
were these were not for eating in the
winter these were cabbages to start so
like when I start in when I weeded this
and then I started these you know that's
a pretty good start for you know April
or or I guess um March right but they're
all ready to go in December and then
they made it through the winter and then
boom I had really big nice cabbages
really early in the year um because I
wasn't these weren't for winter eating
these were for spring starts um but yeah
the weeding here was abysmal I don't
know I have to get my assistant on that
prot what's that protection for your
yeah um that's coming up in just a few
slides yeah that's that's the big thing
is the the dust is a protect oh the
weeds yeah exactly yeah exactly um pest
should be evaluated with an integrated
Pest Management you want to go into the
winter with as few pests as possible I
mean that's true anytime right we don't
want to leave them around but you want
to be have a plan uh or do some research
and come up with a plan to try out that
year um as we have less uh severe
Winters that's more more time in the
summer and the fall for our pests to
proliferate and to um weaken our plants
going into the winter if you've had a
lot of pest trouble you might you you if
they've been weakened by pests you might
just as well Harvest them uh rather than
try and get them to go through the
winter you want to call and have only
the healthiest plants going into the
winter um Geographic ranges are going to
expand um I found in my research
recently that contrary to what I had
thought which is uh oh the colder a
winter it is the more likely it is kill
a lot of bugs uh a lot of pests in the
ground and that actually Studies have
been shown that that's not the case
because the the insects get down the
pest get down low enough that 20 below
doesn't really affect them um it's a
slow damp Cool Spring when the fungus
wakes up and the fungus goes out and
eats lots of dormant insects before they
can emerge so it's actually a cool slow
damp spring that will bring down some
pest some pest load uh rather than a
severely cold winter although I guess
you can have some winter kill um
harvesting eat the worst looking ones
first so if you have a row of 20
cabbages pick the one that's not looking
as good as the others you want to leave
the best looking ones unless you're
having like you know a pope over I don't
know who do you have over I don't know
uh then you then you can pick him a good
cabbage to the pope uh but yeah if
you're all things being equal pick the
the less goodlooking ones the longer
ones or the the the best looking ones
will last longer um so yeah this is my
little this is my he's almost five now
um but yeah we are just picking some of
our fall vegetables don't harvest the
plants um if it's below freezing uh many
of these plants can be perfectly fine
outside while it's freezing but then
don't bring them and put them in the
fridge for a few days before you cook
them pick them right before you're going
to cook them if you bring them in and
let them thaw uh rapidly they're going
to disintegrate right so you want to
pick them and then eat them um or pick
them when it's above freezing you know
when it slowly come above Freez uh or
can preserve it so don't be fooled by
appearances especially with cabbage
cabbage can have some pretty nasty
looking outer leaves but yeah pel back a
couple and inside you might find a
pretty good head okay so uh don't be put
off by appearances uh do a little
digging and you know understand that
this is produce that's been out for
months out in the field right so it's
not going to be Supermarket quality
because they'll call that stuff but it's
perfectly edible perfectly safe as long
as you follow standard practice and stay
positive don't be hard on yourselves
people don't Garden in the winter a lot
for a reason uh it's not necessarily
easy and there's if you get a nasty
winter you know you're you might be out
of luck if you end up having a light
winter you could do particularly well so
those things unless unless you control
the weather in which case please come
talk to me um if if you don't control
the weather you can't control the
weather and if you have a bad winter
it's it's you know stay positive um look
at it as an experiment right this is go
into it as experiment and remember that
negative results are still results if
something didn't work one year well
maybe try something else the next year
um okay so infrastructure yay this is
one of my favorites because you get to
talk about stuff you can put in and on
your garden um so we've already prepped
our soil we picked good varieties so
we're already you know started early
enough in the year that they're all good
uh eating harvesting quality or big
enough at least to make it through for
the spring so now talk about protecting
so don't overuse infrastructure too much
in the fall right so if I'm putting row
covers on and getting everything nice
and toasty in September October well
then my plan they become weak right like
I they might think oh this isn't
September this isn't October this is oh
August and you know September I'm going
to put on lots of growth this is still
early enough in the season and then when
it gets really cold they're like oh why
is it December all of a sudden so let
them start to cold just like you uh
harden off your spring plant outs you
need to kind of harden off your winter
plant outs let them get into cold uh if
it's you know a light frost on your
cabbage that's not going to kill them
let them get that a couple of times to
kind of start to acclimatize them and
then as it starts getting colder then
start adding these things to them to
keep them uh to you're basically just
trying to trim those extra cold
temperatures off them rather than
protect them uh like a helicopter
Gardener uh the entire winter um and
also be careful on Sunny mild days right
you have a well this year what like what
was it 75 on Christmas I don't remember
but it was warm it was pretty warm so
you don't want to have all these row
covers on and then you have a rogue 6 °
day in December and then you bake all
your plants uh my first winter where I
overwintered a lot of cabbage I lost so
much of my started cabbage for the next
spring because it was a hot day and I
forgot um and I ran out there in the
evening I was like oh no and I pulled it
up and it just smelled like melted
cabbage uh cuz it all just wilted it was
like too hot and it all died so uh make
sure to ventilate and remove on those
Rogue hot days which we're getting more
of it seems like um also you want to
avoid another warning avoid cross
ventilation so when we look at row
covers which are long kind of tubes if
you keep both ends open uh you might get
a wind passing through there and that's
just going to suck the heat right out um
you want to keep um ventilation slow and
seeping rather than blowing uh or moving
quickly cuz that pulls too much um heat
or even uh uh coolness away from the
plants and don't forget to water they're
still alive right so they still need to
be watered um and when you have an
impermeable cover I'll show some row
covers that are plastic um you'll need
to water under them especially on a
warmer day where it's fine to be opening
them up um the bigger the cover uh the
better it needs to be secured Against
the Wind I was 2 miles north of that
tornado you know or I mean why should I
be surprised it's February there should
be tornadoes um but you want to have
everything maybe not against the tornado
because what can you do uh but you want
to have those you know Winter Winds are
pretty brutal so make sure that they are
well secured um and remember that
everything that admits light also loses
Heat at night through radiation so if
you have a lot of clear stuff to get
that that extra little light uh into
your plants make sure that you also are
covering it back up at night with
something that insulates a little bit to
keep that in all right so let's talk
about some specific things aouch uh
these were there were millions of these
around Paris uh at the turn of the last
century and they would uh these are tiny
little bell shaped covers that go on in
individual plants or in groups of small
plants so if you can if you can afford
these antique beautiful glass do do some
folks have these a couple no they're
harder to find and they're expensive um
but you know what I have a lot of these
um and you can make and these are nice
because they have a little bit of
ventilation built in um uh you can make
them out of basically anything and these
are just little bells that will keep a
little extra heat and now these of
course will be propped open uh on hot
days they have clch uh uh you can just
put like a little piece of wood tip them
up um just so they get a little bit more
ventilation on hot days so that they
don't fry in there um you can use cones
I've even seen people use those old like
uh dog cones from when after the dog has
a surgery I've seen them people use
those things I don't know why you'd have
a lot of those but maybe you're a
veterinarian I don't know uh these are
Dutch lights Dutch lights are temporary
wooden frames and they support glass
panes um they're higher in the north I
mean this is a double pane um they're
higher in the north generally and lower
on the South Side um they can be DIY and
this isn't something that's going to
keep you know 20 below uh cabbage alive
because it's glass but it will give you
a couple weeks or maybe even a month or
two uh on the shoulder Seasons um and
you know these can be made from uh uh
storm windows things like that you know
if you have a friend in the trades um I
have a friend in the trades and he's
constantly texting me do you need more
storm windows I'm like no please stop
asking me I have a thousand and a half
of them so uh with the caveat though
it's glass and I always warn you anytime
you put something glass in your garden
there's a reasonable chance it's going
to get broken and you might have to be
dealing with glass shards in your garden
so just buy or beware on that if you
have the money for plexiglass or
something like that go for it um but for
my uh let's say very cost effective
gardening uh AKA cheap uh those glass
panes are pretty pretty uh effective
cold frames the uh more grown-up cover
uh cousin of uh Dutch lights uh you can
DIY these with storm windows or full
windows hinge along one side to create
an A-frame uh or you can do it where
you're building the sides out of another
material you can do it out of um straw
bales you can do boxes like this you can
build little tiny green houses these are
all could be classified as cold frames
right these are built into the side of a
house which is great it's getting all of
this thermal Mass that's storing heat
energy during the day also it's shared
with the house so so it's you know
radiating a bit of heat and then here
are some yeah these are cement cement on
the back to absorb heat and release it
at night um those look like permanent uh
built-in ones yeah so you can um go nuts
uh but they should hug the ground the
higher they are the more the heat can
rise away from the plants you really
only want them high enough to cover the
plants uh for your best performance hot
beds hot beds are artificially warmed
soil on a bed of compost and these have
kind of fallen out of favor in
industrial production back in the day so
this is a picture from France um they
used to do uh hot beds all the time
because they didn't have ready access to
say natural gas to heat up a greenhouse
which is what we do now uh because we
would just rather burn the fossil fuel
rather than use you know all this horse
manure that's just going to waste uh
back then there were a lot more horses
there's a lot more horse manure um but
they would pile up 18 or so inches of
horse manure uh at the beginning and it
would be semi anerobic so it would be
slow to compost but you don't want 160°
underneath your plant they'll burn them
um but hot beds are essentially a layer
of soil laid on top of a container of
manure thick layer of composting manure
uh so you could do 12 to 14 in for beds
um that are going to last through the
winter or maybe a little more depending
on your um locations you can also build
them above ground but then there's less
insulation you can lose a lot of heat
out of the sides um some people do their
starts on compost beds that that's
certainly a useful way to do it uh a
second use of compost cuz it has all
heat here we have one that's surrounded
by straw and then inside is the manure
um it's got covers on it so these are
all useful ways to do a hot bed um you
want to make sure you have a good layer
of soil because if you're using manure
it's going to have potential for
bacterial transmission to leafy greens
especially if you're eating leafy greens
in a more raw State you might not want
to do that from a hot bed just out of an
abundance of caution my lawyers tell me
I have to say that what you do in your
own house is up to you but I'm telling
you do not eat leafy greens from a hot
bed because you might get eat coli I've
said it now you do it and you get sick
it's on you okay good we're all clear my
lawyer's happy my my my wife's she's
like be careful what you say you're
telling people to do no no I'm careful
okay um yeah plants need to be watered
think about this there are extra heat in
there so they're going to need a little
more water than you think water around
midday on a warm day um you can combine
these of course as pictured here with
cold frames Dutch lights row covers Etc
you can even make a custombuilt
greenhouse and I'll show you at the end
here a custombuilt greenhouse um to hold
these row covers this is a pretty good
and approachable way to extend your
season row covers uh also called
Horticultural fleece egg fabric Etc
there's a lot of different names for
these you can find them in grower
catalogs uh they're not as common in
household gardening cataloges but they
should be um these row covers are a
lifer I use tons of them uh here are
some of mine for example one of the
first years I did this um I used bent uh
that's EMT electrical medical met metal
conduit uh bent into Horseshoes and then
put over cabbages and things and lots of
weeds apparently this is my first year
doing it um and then I cover them up
here um with multiple layers of this
Fabric and they lived all winter long
they made it through pretty easily um
and you can adjust them I this was one
brain uh storm I had of doing so you can
see piled up Mulch on the back to blow
uh cold Northern winds off of it dark
color and then I had open I would open
them up in the morning when I go open up
the chickens if it was going to be a
reasonable temperature they get some
sunlight and then I'd close them up at
night and this is the the white fa it's
it's like a Horticultural fleece or egg
fabric it's what the is row covering um
in for Market gardeners um it's yeah
it's just like a kind of a fleecy white
yeah yeah it's like a woven feeling yeah
it's permeable it breathes um but slowly
and then yeah I had um clear poly in
front um and that worked really well the
kale the kale uh did survived all winter
and I was just harvesting all winter and
this was it and this was it in the
spring uh it survived pretty well um
others you can use more permeable or
more uh robust covers uh going into the
winter this was just to kind of keep it
alive through the winter um worked
really well so yeah different different
ways uh so this is a good diagram to
kind of show what I'm doing um different
ways to do it uh so they're using those
hor shoes uh to also keep as a wind
barrier right to keep the wind from
blowing the Horticultural fleece away
um they sell clips that fit right onto
half in EMT um some people use PVC I
recommend I I think the PVC becomes too
brittle um even if it's bent already
once it gets to 20 below and then gets
hit by a hard wind they can shatter I
haven't had that happen to my EMT I
don't want to I don't want to be in the
winter storm that crushes my uh metal
conduit uh that would be pretty nasty uh
yeah so they use these kind of Clips but
you can also buy little plastic clips
that hold on uh special made for that um
you could do a couple of layers you
could do uh one layer here and then put
more a slightly larger piping and then
another layer then you'd get an air
layer between them that'd be really good
uh yeah so row covers are great poly
tunnels are also nice and these don't
have to be a big high hoop house that
you invest in these can be you can just
get um what's it called uh it is the
tension wire for uh so if you go to
Menards or any other store that sells
chain link fence there's something
called tension wire it comes in these
big spools and it's pretty big gauge
galvanized wire and then you can just
cut through it and then bend them out
and then you have these pretty strong
enough Hoops of galvanized wire that you
can then use like this to make little
hoop houses and then you can get um
different types of plastic through uh
egg suppliers for Market gardeners or
things like that and then you can make
these small poly tunnels and you don't
have to go nuts like this is a market
Gardener right that's their job this is
a I'm not suggesting that that you all
go do this this winter but you can do it
on a small scale you can make a small
one um uh to keep things going a little
longer and then you can add on to that
right these it doesn't have to be just
one thing so you can have this during
the day and then you pull a row cover
cover over it at night um so it does
take more work but you can certainly get
a lot out of it and if it's not getting
sunny you don't have to uncover them and
just leave them be uh walls and Terraces
this is a bit more of a infrastructure
if you want to go for it um but you know
if this was facing the South this would
be a really warm growing environment and
you could build little covers and stuff
into these uh infrastructure things so
just just part of the built environment
of your garden uh green houses now
obviously a greenhouse is quite an
investment this is my Greenhouse uh no
I'm kidding uh this is the uh called the
jewelbox it's in St Louis it was built
for the 1904 World's Fair so that they
could bring up all kinds of uh uh
tropical plants and things um my wife
and I actually got married in that um we
saved a ton on buying flowers it's full
of
PL um and it's beautiful uh so uh they
were actually invented in Roman times uh
Emperor Tiberius needed cucumbers for
medical reasons uh uh and plyy the Elder
talks about how they created a
greenhouse to grow cucumbers in Rome uh
uh quite a long time ago uh the 1200s in
the Vatican they kept getting gifts from
across Christendom and so they built the
greenhouse 1400s Korea they built um
green houses with heated wooden or
heated andle uh Stone floors that they'd
light a fire and it would pass the smoke
through the floor and it would heat up
really cool uh but they weren't really
widespread um outside of royal or very
wealthy um environments until 1600s in
Europe uh for Market Gardens and uh and
so it's a big investment and these are
obviously commercial like for Market
gardeners or folks who are doing this as
their job um but you can get pretty
small uh economical uh green houses and
even in the green houses I still have to
cover my plant right um but I get an
extra month on either side side of the
growing season real easy um and yeah it
it adds then I only have a couple of
months that I need to Gap with extra
measures inside and there are things you
can do like uh insulation um plastic
glazing isn't a real good insulator even
though my high tunnel will get up to
like the 70s when it's even like 35
degrees outside uh at night it gets down
just as cold as everything else because
all that heat gets lost is radiation so
if I covered it uh it would keep a lot
of that in uh you can have a double wall
active blower this is a bit of an
expensive thing where you have two
layers of plastic and there's a blower
keeping an air pocket in there that
provides quite a lot of insulation um
you can add thermal walls so these are
big black um container big black metal
containers full of water on the southern
excuse me Northern wall of uh more
climate control control Greenhouse but
these absorb solar radiation all day and
then at night they release that heat
back and they will just really if the
temperatures are going like this you
know uh it will just kind of smooth them
out a bit um you can do a manure comp
composting and I'm going to get I'm
going to show you this one later on but
basically this whole back Northern wall
these are each one of these is a cubic
yard uh container for horse manure and
that's producing a lot of heat that is
then circulating through blowers into
this it's a really cool Greenhouse I'll
show you that in a bit um then there's
things like active heating so this is a
mass heater that all uh you fire it here
and then all the smoke goes through all
of this mat masonry before it leaves and
that deposits a lot of the heat so the
the temperature coming out of here is
like 120° so that means all those BTUs
are staying in the greenhouse uh you
could do something like an earth tube
the Earth stays constant uh if you get
down far enough and if you have a long
enough pipe and a blower you can be
blowing 55 degree air in uh for the cost
of just running a blower motor uh all
winter long uh grow IND doors again I'm
not really going to get too deep into
this but if you're already heating your
house which most of us do um you could
be gardening in there or you could be
growing something or at least keeping
things alive I have a lot of stuff in my
my root cellar that I bring in like figs
um I keep my Citrus and my Southern
windows are basically choca block with
plants right now uh Citrus and things
like that um you could also do things
like micro greens uh for a lot of the
same green nutritional stuff especially
if you're saving your own seeds you have
a surplus of seeds that you can eat um
potted plants yeah keep those Southern
Windows full I'm not going to get into
like real hydroponic or anything where
you're starting and keeping it inside
forever but these there's a lot of
really uh pretty options out there
uh that are nicer than what I have well
they're getting nicer cuz my wife says
can you make this look a little nicer I
like all the green but I don't want to
feel like I'm living outside all right
so now let's turn let's see what what
time have I done I got okay good so I'll
get through a couple case studies and
we'll have time for questions or
discussions maybe folks here have some
other suggestions uh so these are case
studies these are more like H kind of
inspiration rather than uh go out and do
it right now uh unless you want to which
would be really cool let me know if you
do cuz I'd love to share uh what you do
anyway so uh so these are Chinese green
houses these were developed in the 1980s
um and these have had various iterations
over the years but basically they're all
kind of the same idea they have a
masonry or a soil rammed Earth back
Northern wall that absorbs heat during
the day I guess these more so and then
they have this kind of half an arch
going forward and then what these look
like are uh they're they're large and
they grow tons of green leafy vegetables
all winter
uh for cities in China um there's uh
yeah they have these they mass-produce
these Arch lattice covers uh and then
they're covered with uh F uh what do you
call it uh Greenhouse uh film and then
at night they have rice straw mats
because that's what they have available
but you could use any sort of matting or
uh I use tarps a couple of tarps uh
layered together on mine which I'll show
you in a minute um oops whoa uh and they
build yeah they have the infrastructure
built up and then they just add the per
perishable stuff and then you can you
know grow Vining stuff on the back wall
and quite a lot because these trellis
roofs uh can take you know strings
attached to them so you can do tomatoes
in the summer yeah so it's a it's an
interesting variation on a greenhouse if
you're building a greenhouse and you're
interested in turning it into a Four
Season Greenhouse having that back wall
it's not like you're getting the sun
through the northern wall anyway um this
is a really interesting uh adaptation
that might not be significantly
depending on how handy you are uh how
significantly more expensive you could
also build a greenhouse of that same
configuration with the drums on the
backside instead of the masonry it would
do the same thing um so yeah there's
again this will be on the website so you
can find these resources but if you
Google for a Chinese Greenhouse uh the
University of Minnesota actually has
grants for Growers to build them in in
sorry in Minnesota so if you're if you
happen to be a market Gardener from
Minnesota you can check that out um but
yeah there's a lot of really cool uh
resources for that so this is mine um I
built this this few years ago is a
walipini which is an inground Greenhouse
mine's semi INR I had to dig it out to
make it in the ground but it is built of
Earth bags which are uh grain bags spent
grain bags from like uh Hop House and
Wisconsin Brewing Company uh that I
filled with a mixture of clay straw um
lime and uh wood chips and then packed
kind of like a retaining wall to go as
to hold up the interior so this is the
trench where the wall would go and then
I I built that all the way up as you can
see here and here's the roof being put
on um and it is supposed to absorb the
sunlight in the winter onto that back
wall and then it would be a Four Season
Greenhouse in the ground I'd change the
roof I do some alterations on this but
um but here it is in the spring and here
it is here's the back side of it with a
thermal mass and windows there uh
because I got tired of doing and so here
is an unheated so some Winters I heat it
I'll show you how and other Winters I
don't so this is the temperature graph
from uh last year's February to this
year's or I guess last so this is last
winter this is not this winter so here
is freezing about here so it does dip
below freezing but it doesn't here's 23°
so it never got below 23° that was the
coldest it got in there that was with no
heat um with no artificial heat and I Do
cover it I've got a rolling cover uh so
it opens up to get some sun in the
winter and then it goes back down um I
do have a mass heater in there um so
this is when it's running um I and I
just burned scrapwood in there so it's
not like I'm buying in uh wood to burn
in there and it doesn't burn much I just
keep it above freezing um I even have
like a a sensor in there as you can see
because I have the data and it pings my
phone if it gets down to 36 degrees I go
out there I start a fire and it's fine
for the night uh even like even well
below zero it's perfectly fine and I
have and I would start these plants
outside and then bring them in um and I
can start things in here really early so
a bit more infrastructure but you know
this is just kind of case study just to
give you some ideas of what what's out
there you can find a whole video with I
apologize really annoying music uh on on
YouTube or on our website lotex it.org I
do apologize for the music just please
turn it down um you can see me almost
lose an eye uh Plastering it okay orange
is in Kansas this is a really uh neat
guy and he builds these green houses and
sells kits and he grows Citrus in in for
sale in can
um and he digs these things deep into
the ground and he sells kits called
Greenhouse in the snow so you can Google
Greenhouse in the snow and they'll come
up um but yeah kits and you can build
them however long you want however big
you want um and yeah so he's growing
oranges and lemons all winter long uh
really beautiful interior uh you know if
you wanted to get something off the
shelf there's the Shelf uh the N uh new
Alchemy Institute was uh kind of like
what I aspire to be they had a whole
bunch of of researchers working in the
1970s on things like Hydroponics and
really ahead of their time agricultural
research uh this was like during the oil
crisis uh that I heard happened in the
70s I wasn't there yet um or aware of
gas um and so these are bios shelters
that they designed and built and so
these are houses on the North side and
then on the southern side they have
large absorbent windows with a basically
a a working ecosystem they've got water
uh with fish and all kinds of plants and
animals living in the water and grow
beds and they're all interconnected um
there's some really great videos uh on
YouTube um that uh that you could check
out that show them working and so this
is when they were being built in like
the 70s how they were getting installed
and this is one still functioning today
they built one on um Prince Edward
Island in Canada and it was a passively
heated uh Arc in in PEI oh here it is um
and this was like running just on solar
heat in Prince Edward Island which isn't
the coldest part of Canada but it's
still plenty cold um yeah so you can
check that out Cape Cod Arc um you can't
see the video it didn't capture when I
tried to screen grab it but if you go to
Cape card arc on YouTube there's a a a
walkth through of it it's really cool um
yeah and this is the compost greenhous
this was actually the inspiration for a
compost study that I did this last year
um it is a greenhouse with Baye for HSE
manure in the back and then there's
blowers uh it's an air rated static
pilot so you never have to turn this
combos it blows
uh fresh air through the compost and or
through the horse manure and composts it
without any turning and then it takes
the carbon dioxide heat and moisture and
pushes it into grow beds to make the
grow beds warm uh yeah really uh great
and so what I tried to do with my study
uh was to make this modular so Market
gardeners could put it in in the winter
and then take it out uh unfortunately I
think you don't have enough control over
the variables you need to build a custom
built one but it's pretty cool um if you
have access to Horsemen go for it um
yeah so here it is from the side you can
see the horse manure there's a blower to
blow CO2 the plants love the CO2 and
then the heat rises up into this bed the
heat gets blown into this bed and then
the um the H2O the CO2 get blown through
corrugated uh tube up through a wood
chip bed which has a lot of beneficial
bacteria to convert all the any nitrites
uh into nitrates or the vice versa uh
and then that goes into the plants uh
yeah it's really clever and they got
tons of uh winter vegetable winter leafy
greens they were actually getting growth
put on um in that uh but most people
can't expect that so this is what we
built this was a bladder that would
capture all that moisture and send it
through a grow bread but it wasn't
working I did get good compost I have
tons of good compost out of this but
this was our bladder system that we
built but I'm not going to get too deep
into it because it was a negative uh or
negative results are still results all
right so that's the end of what I have
uh but I'm very happy to entertain
questions or comments what's been
working for you uh growing in the winter
so thank you very
[Applause]
much all right any questions
yes that's true horses have uh yeah
horses have uh less complete digestion
and so yeah there you do get more pass
through of seeds and things like that
but there's more to compost uh it
composts really well because it has a
lot
more let me ref so you want for
composting you want a 30 to1 or 25 to1
nitrogen and carbon ratio right horse
manure with bedding is almost perfect
it's it's 25 to1 as you scoop it out of
the stable and so you can throw it right
in the bin it's really it's really nice
that way if you're if it's straw bedding
as as if it's wood chip bedding it's a
little off but horse man or cow manure
then you have to add a lot of nitrogen
to it excuse me you have to add a lot of
carbon to it because it's more nitrogen
concentrated so perfectly fine to use
horse manure or uh cow manure basically
whatever you have access to is what you
should use
um yeah there's handouts up here if you
want to grab any on the way out don't be
shy other questions spokes are yeah so
good question uh let the soil itself be
your guy the question was how often
should you be watering in the winter and
it's really dependent because weather's
more variable and the water needs are
more variable in the winter so use your
fingers uh into the soil and see is it
damp you can probably wait if it's dry
water yeah that's basically it
especially again do it on a warm sunny
nice day yeah other question question I
look around no you're fine you're fine
I'm sorry I didn't mean to make you duck
yeah talking you know when you're
throwing yeah the you said the you're
talking soil temperature not it's
covered right so the bed temperature
yeah you preferably you keep your soil
from freezing right because then it can
continue uh biological activity Frozen
some plants can survive with frozen
ground but if you can keep it from
freezing that's idea that's better um
yeah but a lot of plants can deal with
cold air temperatures but if their Roots
freeze they die but if they're air temp
yeah like cabbage is fine if the ground
if the air freezes yeah yeah that's all
right question back
there - 20 night uh uh depends I mean
yeah I mean you're going to have to
experiment what works for your place uh
for me for me to get through -20 and are
we talking just like at night it's -20
then it warms up or are we talking like
3 days -20 because these are all
different things it's all variable but
you know the the more mulch if if it's
going to be really cold I might like
shovel snow on top of it cuz that's
insulative too you know like and usually
there's snow there when it's -20 and I
would shovel it on if it's light snow or
maybe I would get some uh you know extra
tarps and put it over just anything to
keep or spread straw over it and then
cover it I mean whatever you can do but
then I forgot to mention straw and other
mulches also can Harbor uh mice and
things like that so you might even think
about M mouse traps CU I've certainly
had Mouse eaten cabbage and stuff like
that and then I put mouse traps in there
so yeah yeah thank other question
comments concerns yeah just mouse traps
usually or garter snakes I'm just
kidding they don't they don't live in
the winter but yeah Mouse I I'm not
against using uh you know some people
will put out the pellets that they eat
that that works perfectly fine I use the
mouse traps cuz I like to feed the mice
to my chickens same thing uh traps yeah
uh but yeah pellets I will use I if if
it's getting real bad I'll use chemicals
but I try not to peanut butter is what I
usually use I haven't had to trap for vs
uh but I know other people use mouse
trap and Vol traps with a lot of success
but yeah for me for mice it's always
peanut butter cuz it sticks on there it
works real well for me straw bales
uh-huh vs love straw it's a yeah I like
straw for my potatoes but then the vs
get in it and they destroy my potatoes
so the potatoes produce tubers but then
the the Vols eat them so all right
thanks
guys and that's where we wrapped up next
time we'll be back in cooksville in the
year 2100 looking at compressed air stay
tuned that's it for this week the
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[Music]
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