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Trashing an awful LCD slate so you don't have to (reupload)

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Video summary

The video features a teardown and repair attempt of a cheap, low-quality LCD slate designed for children, which the host describes as broken from the start despite having a functional battery. The device operates on a simple principle where a sharp stylus changes the state of liquid crystal material sandwiched between two plastic layers, allowing light to reflect off an underlying layer or pass through to create black marks. Although the original battery was dead and replaced, the slate failed to reset properly because the internal connections were poorly made with heat-stapled pads that did not make reliable electrical contact. Upon disassembly, the host discovered a tiny circuit board containing a switch and a transistor, but found that the device's performance was severely hampered by air bubbles trapped between the layers and faulty wiring that required external power to function even partially. To fix the electrical issues, the creator experimented with various methods to secure the loose connections, eventually resorting to bending metal clips from another broken device and applying conductive paint to ensure proper contact between the terminals and the circuit board. After securing these components with hot glue and reassembling the unit, the host addressed the visual defects caused by air bubbles trapped in the LCD layers. He attempted to pop these bubbles using a rubber eraser and later a heat gun, noting that while applying pressure or heat could temporarily improve visibility, it often resulted in discoloration or smeared patterns on the screen. The process highlighted the fragility of the device, as pushing too hard risked squeezing out the liquid crystal material necessary for the display to work correctly. Despite several attempts to restore functionality, including using a heat gun at increasing temperatures and manually pressing out imperfections, the slate remained largely unusable with persistent visual artifacts and unreliable operation. The host concludes that the device is fundamentally flawed due to its poor manufacturing quality, noting that even when it worked, the experience was subpar compared to drawing on paper. Ultimately, after exhausting repair options and confirming that the internal components were too damaged to be salvaged economically or effectively, he decides to discard the slate as electronic waste. The video serves as a demonstration of how inexpensive consumer electronics often lack durability and proper engineering, leading to the conclusion that such products are better avoided in favor of traditional alternatives like paper and pen.
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Quick video time. I have one of these LCD slates. It's cheap, it's nasty, and it doesn't work. Let's rip the lid off, see how it works, and see if I can fix it. So, what this is is a drawing tablet for small children. It's a simple slab of liquid crystal material. No pixels. It's just a continuous sandwich of the stuff. You draw on it with a sharp stylus. This causes the liquid crystal to change state, which means that it becomes transparent to the reflective layer underneath. When you're done with it, you're supposed to be able to push this button and it resets and all goes blank. Except, as you can tell, it does not work. It resets itself by applying a voltage across the liquid crystal produced by this battery here, which I have in fact replaced. So, I know this works. See, 3.3 volts. This battery works. The thing itself is a super cheap slab of mass-produced plastic. There are no screws other than the one that holds the battery compartment in. [snorts] There is an onoff switch here marked lock and unlock, which makes me think that there's a tiny PCB here, which has the operation button on the other side of it. And other than that, it is glued together. Normally, I'd try hitting this with some hot air to try and soften the glue, but I think that's not going to do the LCD material much good. So, let's just start spudging and see what happens. I have seen someone take one of these apart before, but it did destroy the liquid crystal. So, well, that was straightforward enough. Oops. That bending the LCD. At least there's no glass, so there's nothing to break. It's all just cheaper plastic. Well, there is a tiny PCB which I think is broken now. That was surprisingly straightforward. Now I H Oh dear. This is I believe this is fried. Okay. So, what's going on here? Well, I can already see one thing that's wrong. The battery is upside down. This is the same way up than it was when I got it. So, I suspect somebody has just assembled this incorrectly. The battery that came with it, by the way, was completely flat. So that should be like that. You see there's one terminal there and one terminal there. And then we've got these two pads that are supposed to make electrical contact with these terminals. And I think they've been heat stapled. So if I do this, nothing is happening. Well, that's doing something when I push the button. I wonder if there's any electronics on the other side of this. And the answer is yes. There is one very small chip here. Here is the power switch. And that looks like a transistor. And that's got a D next to it. So, it could be a diode. Does the chip have a number on it? I think that's a no. And also I need to start finding myself a much better microscope. So there are two layers of plastic here and they will have the liquid crystal material sandwiched between them. So can actually see this coming apart. The liquid crystal twists the polarization of the light and the top sheet will be a polarizing filter. The way liquid crystal works is let's get rid of that bubble. The light comes through the top filter, gets polarized in one direction, reflects off the bottom layer, and then comes back out through the polarizing filter. If the liquid crystal twists the light in such a way that the light can't make it out through the top filter again, you get black. If it doesn't, you get transparent. And by applying a small voltage across the liquid crystal, you can change the state of it. And presumably when you squeeze the liquid crystal, this also somehow changes the state of the stuff. So, this is actually still working. Uh, no, not very well, actually. I suspect it's ruined, but it never worked anyway. So, it should go from black to transparent when you press it. So, this should really be black now. So, let's give it a bit of power from the bench power supply. That one's positive. That one's negative. Power on. It is drawing nothing as you might expect. Hold this together. Push the button. Oh, interesting. That worked. It's even working up here or the very badly. So, either the battery terminals aren't working properly and it wasn't connecting to the battery or something is wrong with these connections. It is interesting that it started working as soon as I hooked up the bench power supply. And I was pushing this down onto the pad and pressing the button before and it wasn't working and it now is. The problem is that while these connections are obviously completely trash, fixing them is quite hard because this is really soft thermoplastic and the instant I touch a soldering iron to this piece of metal mesh, this is going to come loose. It's probably going to come loose anyway. just from, you know, looking at it. So, how can I fasten these down to the pad that's mechanically solid but also makes electrical contact? Trashy DIY mechanical clips. These are made from one of these that's been bent by me in my fingers. So, this may, if I can figure out how to do this without breaking anything else, these may push onto the PCB and hold the connections together. Is that actually working? Maybe. Maybe. Except I've forgotten there are actually components on the other side of this. So, that's not necessarily going to work. I suppose one advantage of this thing being terrible is it doesn't really matter if I break it. But, I've attached a crocodile clip that holds this thing on, and it does make electrical contact. If I make a mark and push the button, stuff disappears. I then have some of this. This is conductive paint. It's a copper or possibly silver particle in solvent emulsion stuff. So [snorts] if I dab it on here, that should make electrical contact. I'll just make sure this thing still works. Yes, it does. The solvent's now all evaporated, leaving the copper behind. You can see it's gone all shiny. So, that should be making an electrical connection. So, now we need hot glue. And this should hopefully make a mechanical connection and prevent everything from falling apart again. A lot of hot glue. And now we kind of want to smear it down. And that's probably way too much and it's not going to work. And of course, it doesn't work. One thing I have noticed is that whatever's happening on the electrical side keeps going for a little bit after you press the button. So you can see it just refuses to write until until something's not right there. Yeah. Until a certain amount of time passes. I've reinstalled the board and done the screws up. So all you need to do now is put the battery in like so. Scribble something and push the button. And nothing happened. If I press here. Yeah, that hasn't worked. Beginning to wonder if hot glue really is capable of fixing anything or whether that is in fact not true. What happens now? No. Yes. Okay. It doesn't need much pressure to actually make it work. So, I think we're good. So, another dab of hot glue. Try and hold that into position. That should all be That's about it. But actually, [snorts] I expect that the plastic bezel is going to hold this down sufficiently. Just want to make that a little bit mechanically robust. and in fact does actually appear to work. Okay, the next step is to add some double-sided sticky tape underneath this thing to hold it approximately in place while I work on it. Okay. And hopefully this thing still works and I haven't bent it too much. Put that about here. Stick down. H some rather big bubbles. Push button. Right, that brings us to the second thing, which is to try and get all this stuff working again. So, these are bubbles between the two layers, and I need to push them out. And I'm going to try using this rubber. Although, as Americans tend to giggle when I say that, perhaps I should call it an eraser. This should hopefully be soft enough, but firm enough to be able to push things out. You see the pressure is causing the LCD to discolor. So I pushed the button again. Well, as you can see by the result, it looks like trash. I got the bubbles out, but it's left these circular patterns. So, I'm going to do something really stupid. This thing is broken. Anyway, I'm going to use a heat gun and see I'm going to use a heat gun just to see what will happen. So, this is set to 100. So, what's it going to do? The answer is it's not doing anything. So, let's crank it up a bit to 120. No, it's having no effect whatsoever. 140 Oh, I'm seeing the color change. Push button. Uh, nah, it's not doing anything useful at all. You may even have a few more bubbles there. I'm not sure I remember there being that many. Now, this is interesting. Pushing with a hard object does actually seem to work better than using the rubber. So, let's just try going over this and see if I can push all the bubbles out. Well, that is better, though it's not good. And I suspect that if I push too hard, I'll squeeze the liquid crystal material out and I'll end up with more smears simply because there isn't enough material to polarize the light. So, I think that's about as good as it'll get. So, let's stick the really sticky mask back on, which is already going hairy. Ah, it sticks to my fingers everywhere. And it's perfect. I was actually planning on using this as a on camera prop for just drawing stuff, but even when it worked, it was pretty trash. And now it is completely broken. This bubble here is caused by the sticky bevel uh going over the hot glue lump, which is about there, and it's pulling the screen up. So, that's not brilliant. And I suppose that is that. Before anyone asks, yes, this thing is going straight into the e-waste bin. I don't think I'll get another one. Honestly, I think I'm better off just drawing on paper. Anyway, be interesting to look through the inards of this. One thing it would be interesting to do is actually to peel the two layers apart and get to the liquid crystal stuff directly, but I have a feeling that that's not actually anything you want to get on your skin. So, I'm not going to. Yes, beautiful. And I think perfectly suited to demonstrate the quality of this drawing pad. Anyway, quick video over.