Video summary
Dr. Harold McGee, a professor at Stanford University and renowned author on food chemistry, joins the Huberman Lab to explore how scientific principles transform our culinary experiences. He emphasizes that traditional cooking techniques often possess kernels of chemical truth that were discovered through generations of experimentation rather than formal science. A prime example is the use of copper bowls for whipping egg whites; while initially dismissed as an old cook's tale, McGee tested this historical practice and found it produced a foam with a distinct color, texture, and consistency compared to other materials because copper inhibits the breakdown of sucrose into glucose and fructose during high-heat jam making. This discovery underscores his broader lesson: cooks have historically acted as "unconscious geniuses," arriving at truths through trial and error that sometimes contradict early scientific claims by figures like Justus von Liebig, who incorrectly advised against traditional methods based on incomplete mechanistic understanding. The chemistry of heat is central to how we perceive food, particularly meat. McGee explains that raw proteins are macro-molecules too large for our senses to detect directly; cooking breaks these down into smaller volatile molecules and reactive fragments that stimulate taste receptors and create complex aromas. This process turns bland raw ingredients into a "bouquet" of flavors, explaining why searing the outside of a steak creates such a delicious contrast with its rare interior. Similarly, he discusses coffee brewing, noting that water temperature is critical; boiling water extracts larger molecules like tannins which contribute bitterness and body, while cooler water near the boil yields different flavor profiles depending on extraction time. He also addresses tea chemistry, clarifying that polyphenols cross-link proteins to create smoothness in well-brewed teas but can cause curdling if mixed with milk or fix tissues in a lab setting; however, he argues this is not harmful for digestion and suggests avoiding rigid dietary rules about separating food groups unless an individual has specific sensitivities. Biological variability plays a massive role in how we experience taste, often leading to divergent opinions on common foods like cilantro or Parmesan cheese. McGee explains that some individuals possess genetic variants of olfactory receptors that cause them to perceive the sulfur compounds in cilantro as soapy rather than fresh, while others detect butyric acid in aged cheeses and vomit due to its similarity to the chemical signature of emesis. He also touches on onions, which release volatile sulfur molecules designed for plant defense against animals; these can irritate human eyes or trigger histamine responses causing gastric pain in sensitive individuals. Furthermore, he discusses how our gut microbiome adapts over time to foods like beans that produce gas because we lack enzymes to break down specific oligosaccharides, suggesting that tolerance increases with frequent consumption rather than requiring strict avoidance of food combinations. McGee's journey from astronomy and literature to food science illustrates his philosophy of following curiosity without rigid boundaries. Originally trained in astronomy at Caltech but inspired by humanities professors, he shifted focus after realizing physics alone was insufficient for him. His entry into food chemistry began with a simple dinner table question about why beans cause gas, leading him to discover NASA research on oligosaccharides and eventually write his books. He advocates for slowing down the eating process to fully appreciate sensory stimulation, noting that even slightly unpleasurable sensations provide necessary input to our senses. Ultimately, he concludes that while there is no single "optimal" diet applicable to everyone due to individual physiology and genetics, a shared principle across all dietary philosophies—whether vegan or carnivore—is the reduction of processed foods in favor of whole ingredients prepared with an understanding of their chemical interactions.
Read the full video transcript
Welcome to the Hubberman Lab podcast,
where we discuss science and
science-based tools for everyday life.
I'm Andrew Huberman and I'm a professor
of neurobiology and opthalmology at
Stanford School of Medicine. My guest
today is Dr. Harold McGee. Dr. Harold
McGee is a professor at Stanford
University and world-renowned author on
the topic of science and the chemistry
of food and cooking. He has spent more
than four decades researching and
writing about this topic. His work is
unique because it at once teaches us
about why foods taste the way they do,
as well as how to make essentially any
food or drink taste better. I, like
presumably most of you, absolutely love
to eat. And for me, that's an
understatement. I love food and eating.
Today, Harold teaches us about
everything from how certain types of
cookware, the bowls, the pans you use,
even the utensils you use can change the
taste of those foods, as well as simple
things like adding a pinch of salt to
anything bitter. tasting, including
coffee. Yes, coffee changes its
chemistry and flavor for the better. And
he explains why. We discuss the
preparation of meat and this thing that
we call savoriness or the umami taste
and how it's brought about by heating
proteins in very specific ways and how
you can bring out more of those flavors
and how to get more of the healthy
compounds such as polyphenols found in
chocolate and cacao. And we cover the
much debated issue of whether more
expensive wines are truly better than
less expensive ones in terms of their
taste or whether it's all a function of
marketing. So if you're a seasoned cook
or perhaps you only know how to make a
few basic dishes or if your version of
cooking is basically a protein shake and
some oatmeal, this discussion with
Harold McGee will let you understand the
essential chemistry of food and cooking
and how to prepare food that is far more
enjoyable. As I said before, I love to
eat and this discussion taught me how to
make the foods I love so much. meat,
cheese, vegetables, fruit, starches,
etc., all taste far better. And since
eating is a big part of life, not just a
way to support our health, I'm certain
that everyone will glean useful
knowledge and practical tools from Dr.
McGee. Before we begin, I'd like to
emphasize that this podcast is separate
from my teaching and research roles at
Stanford. It is however part of my
desire and effort to bring zerocost to
consumer information about science and
science related tools to the general
public. In keeping with that theme,
today's episode does include sponsors.
And now for my discussion with Dr.
Harold McGee. Dr. Harold McGee, welcome.
Thank you, Dr. Huberman.
I, like most people, love to eat. I also
love food. I love the look of it. I love
the smell of it. I love the anticipation
of eating. And you've had a truly unique
career. We'll talk a little bit more
about your background later, but you've
had such a unique career focusing on the
chemistry of food, food interactions,
and I must say, even just knowing a
little bit about your work, you've
changed the way that I think about even
like the sorts of metals that I might
use to prepare my food because it turns
out these things are all impacting one
another in not just small ways, but
really profound ways that impact our
experience of food and and taste. So,
just to kick things off,
is there any one wild food interaction
chemistry fact that you just
particularly find interesting? When I
started writing my book about uh the
chemistry of cooking, um I didn't know
that much about cooking or about
chemistry. I was kind of learning on the
fly, which was part of the fun. And uh I
read when I was writing about eggs that
if you're going to make a a foam of egg
whites to make a meringue or a sule. So
you put the egg whites in a bowl and you
whisk them until they uh essentially
form a solid from that liquid. Um a
solid consisting of uh air bubbles
trapped in uh in the liquid and that
makes it act like a solid. amazing kind
of transformation. Um, and uh, when I
was looking at uh, what cooks had said
about this process, they said you should
use a copper bowl to do that whipping.
And so I looked in the chemistry of eggs
literature, of which there was uh, a
fair amount actually, for some kind of
explanation as to why that might be the
case. And um, couldn't find one. And so
I decided, well, it's probably an old
cook's tale, somebody who had a a copper
bowl and used that and thought that was
better. And so I didn't think anything
more about it until I was preparing my
book for publication, looking for cheap
illustrations because I couldn't afford
good ones. And I found an old engraving
of a an 18th century French kitchen. And
there was a boy
acting as though he was whipping
something in a bowl. And the bowl kind
of looked like our modern um copper
bowls with a little ring to hang the
bowl on the uh on the wall. And there
was a key that came along with the
illustrations. And the key actually said
uh whipping eggs in a copper bowl to
make pastries.
So, I thought if the French have been
doing it for hundreds of years, maybe
there's something to this. Maybe I
should uh actually test it, which was a
really important lesson for me. Test
everything. Uh I I gulped and bought a
copper bowl because they're expensive.
And um and did a side by side and the
difference was tremendous. Different
color, different texture, different
consistency in the mouth, totally
different. um experience. And so it was
that um that uh realization that a um a
cook's what what I thought might be a an
old cook's tale could actually have a a
kernel of scientific chemical truth to
it. That to me was a a mindblowing and
and career-changing experience because
from then on I didn't take anything for
granted. I always had to give it a try.
I love it. I recently started drinking
water out of a copper
um reusable bottle. Uhhuh. Mostly
because I needed a water bottle and
there was one for sale where I happened
to be and it was copper and I rather
like the taste. There are all sorts of
theories about copper being better for
us health-wise, etc. I haven't explored
those to see if they're actually true or
if it's um nonsense, but um I I do like
the look of it. Is copper used um for
the preparation of any other foods
specifically in order to extract the
best flavor from those foods or or
liquids? Uh copper is actually used in
jam making, jelly and jam making. And
the reason for that is uh that if you
use any other uh material, you end up um
messing with actually almost everything
in there because the temperatures are
pretty high. They're above the boiling
point. Um but in particular the sugars
and if you break sucrose down to glucose
and fructose then you know the the
behavior of the material changes a lot
not necessarily for the better. And it
turns out that copper actually inhibits
the breakdown of glucose
into glucose and fructose. And so again
for uh generations uh cooks, French
cooks in particular uh have used copper
bowls to make uh their preserves. Wow.
Copper is used for a variety of things.
Um it sounds like and people have
arrived to this through what sounds like
kind of an unconscious genius combined
with um uh experimentation. When
scientists got interested in cooking,
they sometimes made um claims and uh and
suggested changes that in fact were
terrible ideas. The traditional way of
doing things was actually much better.
they had come up with a partial
understanding of what was going on and
on the basis of that partial
understanding decided that they needed
to correct cooks who of course weren't
as smart as they were uh uh and get them
to change. And so you can see in the
middle of the 19th century some
cookbooks published in in England and
the US having a subtitle you know the
back in the day long subtitles were uh
were enjoyed and so this the subtitle
would be in which the theories of Dr.
Leebig have been as much as possible
applied in in the recipes and Liebig was
he was a genius um biochemist but on
cooking he kind of took his genius for
granted and was wrong. The the cooks
knew better. Yeah. I love um this notion
of unconscious genius that a field of
people who are experimenting without any
formal rigorous coursework in a given
area like chemistry can can arrive at at
truths without understanding the the
mechanistic basis of those truths. Yeah.
You know actually I think a lot of what
we face nowadays in the the sphere of
health and nutrition is about that
conflict. you know, there there are
papers identifying mechanisms, but then
they don't play out in clinical trials,
which is the, you know, and then there
are people in the real world who are
doing things for which there's really no
peer-reviewed research, but you get the
sense that maybe they're on to
something, you know. So, it's a very
interesting intersection of um uh
expertise and uh and real world results.
Yes. Or sometimes collision of of the
two.
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to get up to 30% off. As I mentioned
before, I love to eat. Um, and we could
talk about any of the different major
food groups. um as an exploration of the
chemistry of food. But I think one of
the more interesting ones is the
combination of heat and food, right? Um
and very often people will ask me, you
know, like is microwaving safe? And
things like that. And I've uh didn't ask
me anything recently where I said yes
indeed microwaves are safe. You probably
don't want to stand right in front of it
in case the the mesh protector isn't
isn't as effective as it might be. But
yeah, it's heating things up from the
inside. But we have all these different
ways to heat up food and we have ways to
heat food and then cool food as a way to
enhance the flavor of food. When it
comes to um the use of heat in food,
what do we know about the history of the
the use of I imagine it was fire first,
but um this is a vast you know topic but
um what are some of the interesting ways
in which heat interacts with food at the
chemical level to allow us to enjoy that
food more? Yeah. So, um, in the
anthropological literature, of course,
the focus is on, um, uh, increasing
caloric intake and being able to, uh,
consume materials that we wouldn't
otherwise be able to consume as
efficiently. So, um, that's that's the
sort of practical side, but my feeling
is that the use of fire wouldn't have
caught on if it didn't make foods
delicious, more delicious than they'd
been in the first place uh, at the same
time. And and in fact probably um people
early on uh learned to associate
particular sensory experiences with the
nutritional value of what it was they
were eating and maybe even the safety
because uh you know if you kill a
mammoth you've got a lot of leftovers
and uh what do you do with them so that
they don't spoil and and make you sick
later on. So um the the terrific thing
about the application of heat to foods
in general is that they heat kind of
takes the materials uh of which the food
is made and rearranges them um and in
many cases breaks molecules down into
smaller molecules that um that we can
actually detect with our senses of
taste. taste and smell. So, uh,
proteins, carbohydrates, fats, that's
what we think of as constituting food,
but they're all, um, macroolelecules.
They're they're way too big for us to
experience directly. And uh so one of
the things about cooking that's that's
most important is that cooking will take
those macroolelecules
and break down uh enough of them to
produce small molecules that we can
detect with our senses of taste and
smell and um and enjoy
simply for that reason. uh you know we
have my my feeling is that we have our
senses
um for them to be stimulated and um so
in many cases even if the um if the
stimulation is borderline pleasurable or
maybe even slightly unpleasurable,
we still enjoy the fact that we're being
stimulated, that something is going on
with our senses of taste and smell. And
cooking uh does that in spades. It takes
these these um molecules with no taste
or smell and turns them into bouquets of
various kinds depending on the original
material. Yeah. When I think about a
piece of steak um and if I were to take
a bite of it raw
um it would taste very different uh cold
versus room temperature. And then raw
steak, which to me is not appetizing.
Um, cooked even just a bit, especially
if it were seared on the outside. Um,
now becomes pretty darn good. Cook it a
little bit more, like medium rare, with
a really nice sear on the outside. I
think they call it Pittsburgh char.
Anyone that likes the outside of the
steak really nice uh nice and charred
and the inside rare, it's Pittsburgh
char if the chef knows what they're
doing. um is uh absolutely delicious. Um
so what's happening there? I mean that
you know you said that heat changes the
molecular structure but what what about
those changes allow us to taste it um
more not just differently because as you
said like like raw steak is pretty
bland. I mean it's I mean most of us
probably think of that as kind of gross
but um it's also kind of bland compared
to when um when it's cooked. What's
happening? what's being uh released into
the into the steak. Yeah. So what what
happens is that the materials of the
tissue and in the case of meat it's
mostly uh protein and fat um those um
macroolelecules large molecules that are
too big for our senses to uh to register
get broken apart. And um that's because
heat is energy. energy uh agitates
things. Um it agitates molecules at the
surface of the food enough to break them
apart into much much smaller pieces. And
it's those pieces that were um that
we're experiencing when we take a bite.
Uh the pieces are not only much smaller,
but they're uh also reactive so that
they can react with each other. they can
react with oxygen in the air surrounding
the food. And so we end up with um you
know if you if you did a an analysis of
the aroma coming off of um some steak
tartar and coming off of a a Pittsburgh
char.
um you're going to have very very little
uh noticeable uh even with uh
instrumentation,
but off of the the stake a tremendous
amount of um volatile molecules, which
are the ones that our our noses detect.
And then also molecules that are small
enough to stimulate our taste receptors.
So we have a handful and they uh we we
think of them as responding to sweet,
sour, salt, bitter, umami um tastes. Um
we we encounter those tastes in all
kinds of things in everyday life. But
when you uh cook a a piece of meat to a
high temperature and do a good amount of
damage to that outer uh uh molecular
surface, you generate molecules that can
stimulate those receptors even though
they themselves are not sugars or salts
or or whatever. What I like to think of
is just the alchemy of uh of heat. you
know, you you take this material, you
add energy, and you transform it in ways
that are delightful to us. So, if I
understand correctly, even though um the
molecules in meat, uh typically wouldn't
stimulate the sweet receptor, when you
cook steak, it starts to stimulate the
sweet receptors because of the change in
those molecules. you you've you've
reduced their size and you've changed
their their configuration depending on
which recipe you use. Yes. And and
you're also generating uh where once you
might have had um you know uh well these
days our enumeration of molecules has
gotten so good that who knows exactly
how many are in that raw piece of meat.
uh whatever that number is, it's
multiplied manyfold by the application
of heat simply because it's taking those
materials, breaking them apart, getting
them to react with each other. Um and uh
the result is just an explosion of
sensory um uh information that simply
wasn't there before. We have to talk
about umami. I mean, not just because
the name is fun to say, but um this uh
receptor that seems to uh bind molecules
um that give us the sensation at least
in part of savoriness.
Uh, I mean, to me, few things are as
delicious as the um braise that comes
off of meat in a cast iron pan, that I
would literally scrape that stuff up
onto the spatula and eat it if uh no
one's looking. Um, and anyone that
thinks that that sounds gross, I mean,
it is absolutely delicious. I mean, it
is like the the the pinnacle of like why
we eat protein. That's why it feels so
darn delicious to me. Um, and the the
intensity of flavor per unit of of
whatever that stuff is um is so high.
But then here's the thing. If you were
to wait two hours and come back and pick
up one of those little black, you know,
um, crumbs of braise and put in your
mouth, it will kind of like punch you in
the mouth and it tastes like kind of
awful, like you were licking the um, the
grill of a barbecue from two days
before. Not good. So, what's going on
with with braze and with umami? And we
can talk about a lot of nonmeat um ways
to stimulate umami, but such a an
interesting aspect to food and taste.
Yeah. Yeah, it is. And something that
when I started writing about cooking in
the 70s,
no one believed it existed except for
the Japanese scientists who were living
in the country where it was discovered
in the first place. That's right. They
were the first to molecularly clone the
umami receptor as far as I know. And
they were also the first to claim that
there was a uh sensation, taste
sensation that was not sweet, sour, salt
or bitter. Uh which is why they were
disbelieved in the west for for decades
and decades. And when I as I say when I
started writing that was the standard
view. Japanese have this weird idea of
something a basic taste um that's just
simply not correct. Um, and I I went to
a couple of meetings in Boston and
remembered this being debated among uh
uh chemists. First, I'll just say that
uh I know exactly what you mean about
the that flavor uh of something that you
apparently feel guilty about enjoying
because you you said you would uh uh
scrape it up when no one was looking.
When I was growing up, there were we
family of four children. Um, my mother
would occasionally make a uh an
ovenbaked chicken uh cut up into pieces
and um the drippings would drip down to
the pan and brown. And after the meal,
my siblings and I would line up for a
spoonful of the scrapings. Delicious. I
can I I can smell it and taste it just a
bit. Yeah. Anyone that's cringing at
that, you have not tasted proper braise
from meat. It's uh assuming you consume
animal uh proteins, it is um absolutely
delicious. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. I can I can
it it just takes me back. It's pristian
to go back to that. U so u to make a
long story short, the Japanese were
shown to be correct
uh by western standards. They always
knew they were correct, but by western
standards they were proved to be correct
when a receptor for uh glutamate was
discovered uh in the 2000s. Yeah, early
2000s. Uh so finally, Western scientists
were on board. Um meanwhile, cooks uh
had been on board for a long time uh
because they're always looking for ways
to make their food more delicious. and
they'd heard about this. Some went to
Japan, they came back and um so uh umami
is um a sensation that's a little bit
difficult to uh to describe compared to
sweet, sour, salt, and bitter. Um
savory, I think, is the word you use.
And that's the sort of the the usual
nomenclature. Um, when you try to
characterize it further, it's it's a a
feeling of fullness and length. So, the
the flavor, there's just a lot of it
there and it sticks with you for for a
while. That's what we mean by length.
Yeah. Got it. I feel like also
it um it doesn't occur just in my mouth,
you know, and I'm not um like very
nuanced about food. food. I mean, I love
food, but um I'm not somebody who can
really I don't consider myself a food
connoisseur. I just know what I like and
what I don't like. But I feel like that
the taste of something with a lot of
umami flavor actually spreads throughout
the body. It's like a a whole head
experience, maybe even down to the
chest. It's not restricted to like a
location in on the tongue or something
like that. Later we'll talk about this
myth about restricted receptors on the
tongue.
Um
yeah, one has to wonder if if um because
the umami um receptor stimulation is so
closely tied to savoriness and protein
and because protein was presumably
scarce in evolutionary history, whether
or not there's some reward pathways that
are like, oh, this is this is good to
because people had to work really hard
under dangerous conditions often to get
umami stimulation. Yes. Yes. Yeah.
That's right. And um uh I I would also
say that from at least my reading of the
the literature, we only know a tiny tiny
bit about what's going on when we smell
things and taste things. So we know the
the initial step there's a receptor on
our tongue that responds to glutamate
which which is associated with this
sensation. What happens after that? Who
knows? Um and and there's also the fact
that glutamate is an important u
molecule in the body for signaling. So
who knows what kind of you know cross
talk there might be between the the
receptor on the tongue and the rest of
the body. And people have also in the
last what 10 years or so discovered uh
taste receptors for all the tastes in
our GI tract. Yeah, that is so
interesting. I and so important too
because um Oh, maybe that's the
sensation that um things are uh that the
umami taste is is much deeper. Yeah. Is
that that they're in the esophagus and
presumably maybe even into the stomach.
Yeah. Yeah. Um wild. I heard um that
tigers
have something like 10,000 fold more
umami receptors than humans, but they
have no sweet receptors. I don't know if
that's true. Usually when you hear
something like that, it's likely to be
not completely true, but who knows? We
look it up and and someone will tell us
in the comments. Um, which upon hearing
made me immediately want to try being a
tiger for one day. Like, I can't even
imagine how good meat tastes to to
carnivores that have that density of
umami receptors. But it raises another
question too which is assuming that's
true. Would the absence of the sweet
receptor perhaps make meat taste
completely different? You know in other
words is there cross talk between these
receptors so that when you eat something
that's like this spoonful of of braise
drippings off the the the roasted
chicken. Um presumably there's a some
stimulation of the sweet receptors. If
you only had umami receptors, maybe it
wouldn't taste good at all. Is the
chemistry of food occurring in the
mouth, not just um in the food itself?
Wonderful questions. I don't know where
to begin exactly, except to say that
when you um brown a piece of meat or um
just cook it to a high temperature so
that the outside of the meat changes
color. uh that that color change is
indic an indication of some
a group of reactions called the Mayard
reactions after the guy who actually
didn't quite address this but he got he
got his name associated with it anyway.
Um the Mayard reactions are essentially
reactions between fragments of proteins
and fragments of carbohydrates and fats.
And uh the reaction pathways are really
complicated. They still haven't been
worked out completely, but they generate
a bunch of different classes of
products. And among those products are
sugars. So you don't start out
necessarily with sugars, but if you've
got proteins and fats, you can make
sugars simply with the alchemy of uh
applying heat. So that's part of what's
going on. And I would say that
um yeah, tigers are missing out because
there's an interesting dimension of
flavor to to meat uh that that has been
cooked. There's the chemistry of cooking
and then there's the chemistry of
enjoying, of tasting, uh, consuming. And
it turns out, uh, that that's
complicated in its own right because
first of all, we're presenting our
sensory apparatus with um, the most
complex materials that they're going to
encounter. Nature does not uh, generate
this kind of complexity.
uh we're we're doing it for ourselves
and that's part I think of the of the
great pleasure that we take from it. Um
but it also turns out that in the mouth
changes can take place and this is act
was actually first uh noticed by uh
experts in wine because they found that
when they um put a raw grape in their
mouth to taste you know what what what's
the characteristics of the of this
particular grape and how does that carry
over into the wine? What they noticed
was that initially there's just the
taste of the grape, but then as they sit
there, other flavors begin to uh come
and because they were experts in wine
tasting, they were able to uh figure out
which ones they were and they they were
some of them molecules that you find in
the finished wine and it's just in your
mouth. You just chewed it. So it turns
out that there are in um all kinds of
foods um molecules that are uh called
conjugates. You know, they're um uh kind
of business end of the molecule and then
usually attached to a sugar of some
kind. And um when we put something in
our mouth and we have enzymes in our
mouth, uh those enzymes can go to work
on things like conjugates and free up um
the sugar from the uh rest of the
molecule and the rest of the molecule
can be aromatic.
And uh it's known now that the Mayard
reactions generate not only sugars but
conjugates. And so, uh, there's there's
just a lot going on. And it's it's a,
uh, I think one of the best arguments
for, uh, enjoying your food slowly
because you never know what's going to
kind of
show up in your mouth, uh, after, you
know, 20 or 30 seconds in. Slow down,
enjoy every bite, and and notice what's
happening. uh because it's uh it's often
a really dynamic uh experience, we're
going to have a hard time convincing
many people to slow down their rate of
eating. However, if you promise them a
richer experience of the food and not
just that they're trying to eat less or
something, which is the usual reason
that people hear they should chew their
food, maybe improve digestion as well.
Um they might be incentivized to do it.
I should point out of all the senses um
seems taste and its relationship to food
we have um more control over that
experience. Like let me state this
differently. If I were to do a podcast
on you know that simply by looking
around the world differently you could
start to actually get new visual
perceptual abilities. That'd be pretty
exciting. But I'm sorry but that's not
true. It doesn't work. I mean, you could
enhance your, you know, some
discrimination of certain things if you
were trained to look for them, but
you're not going to change your visual
perceptual abilities. But with taste, it
sounds like we we have the ability. So,
when you say slow down, do you mean um
slow down the chewing, take pauses after
um bites? Um, all of the above. Yeah,
all of the above. Because even after you
swallow, there are residues in your
mouth and at the back of your mouth. And
that's what the wine experts noticed was
the change in those residues. So, it's
not that they chewed on a grape and then
kept it in their mouth for a minute. Uh,
it was just what was left over. So, the
leftovers can be as delicious as the
main course. All right, I'm going to
start taking pauses between at least
food types. Um, I've sometimes had the
experience of eating something
particularly delicious. Um,
for instance, uh, meat. um or fruit or
vegetables. I love all the the I'm an
omnivore, so I love all these things,
but I'm so satisfied with what I just
ate that I don't want something sweet
right away because of the collision that
occurs between foods. Am I alone in not
liking dessert, but liking dessert foods
on their own at a separate time? Am I or
am I just like on a desert island of
experience here?
No, I'm actually uh completely the same.
Um I u I would prefer to have another
half glass of wine than dessert. Uh just
simply to prolong the experience of the
the the main part of the meal. U and
dessert, sweet things I enjoy, but not
after um a big meal of of other things,
savory things. Um, my wife uh who's
Japanese says she has uh a separate
mouth and a separate stomach for
desserts and she can go right into it
after um after the the main course, but
yeah, I I prefer not to. I feel like
many people eat dinner just to get to
dessert.
Let's actually talk about food order in
the meal. Um, many years ago, uh, I had
a girlfriend who was from the south of
France, from the Perry Gord. So, she
grew up in what is arguably one of the
food capitals of the of the planet. You
know, people think French food Paris,
but actually people in the south of
France are so serious about food that
her family would spend most of the day
and the night and the meal talking about
the next meal or a previous meal. Um,
they would search for mushrooms with
binoculars. If they spotted one in the
neighbor's yard, they were like
perplexed as to how to negotiate for
that mushroom. You couldn't actually go
get steal the mushroom. That would be
like a a cardinal sin. I mean they are
so serious about food every aspect of it
as you know. And we used to get into
these intense arguments about the order
in which one is supposed to eat food.
And you know in her mind it was soup
first because it actually prepares the
gut and then always salad last. this
whole notion of eating uh salad at the
beginning of the meal was like heresy to
uh I mean to everything that she had had
known and and conceptualized about food.
So, I have to believe that
whether one likes French food or not,
that they they're on to something that
when it comes to digestion, when it
comes to being able to really taste the
the full array of flavors in a food that
we probably should be doing soup first,
then an appetizer, then an entree, and
then salad last. and if we're not
consuming an entire, you know, meal of
that sort that salad shouldn't be eaten
at the beginning of a meal. Are they
right? I'm pretty sure that she was
right. She was right about most things.
Very good question. And I guess my
answer would depend on the audience. So,
and I say that because of course, if you
go to a a banquet in China, everything
is served simultaneously. Really? They
just slide it all out in front of you.
And do people eat everything in kind of
mishmash? Or there may be um phases, but
you're presented with many many
different dishes at each phase. Oh, I
would be so overwhelmed. And it is
overwhelming. I And you know, it's
partly
uh well, I I don't want to uh
generalize. Maybe it has to do with um
perhaps
uh emphasizing the the uh abundance and
and generosity of the meal rather than
focusing on the pleasure that you can
get from each stage in it. Maybe it's um
maybe the French are more focused on the
the sensory experience. But there are
many many different ways to um to
sequence dishes in a meal. And um I I
think it does the the the French way of
doing it uh does make a lot of sense. Uh
my family and I lived in uh the
countryside near Tulus for a year and um
ate around with the neighbors and so on
and and my daughter my and son went to
school where they were given a full hour
for lunch and it was a coursed lunch
with all those different components. Uh
so it it does make sense I think because
um having the soup
uh come early helps um among other
things partly fill your stomach so that
when you then go to the main course um
you don't have to eat as much in order
to be satisfied. And then the salad, you
you know the salad is coming and it kind
of refreshes you because the main course
is usually um on the heavy and rich
side. Almost always. Yeah. Yeah. Goose
breast with for gr was not uncommon in
her household. Yes. And they were a
middle-ass home, I should mention. So it
wasn't that people there were eating
goose breast with for gr because they
were among the like elite. It was that
was the uh ham and cheese sandwich of
the of the town. Yeah, those are those
are the local products and uh the the
geese were probably being raised down
the road. So yeah. Um, so I think u the
the salad kind of
closes out the the main part of the meal
and refreshes you a little bit and then
if you're going to have dessert, you're
ready for it rather than being
overwhelmed by yet another rich um uh
another rich course. So I think it does
make a lot of sense for the for that uh
structure of a meal where you have those
different courses. Yeah, this notion of
um cleansing the pallet is kind of an
interesting one. Um it's been a long
time since I've been to a meal where
they served a pallet cleanser in between
dishes. I mean that that's something
that I think in the 80s and 90s became a
little bit popular in the United States
and my family wasn't serving or
attending those sorts of meals, but I'
I've been to a few. It's kind of an
interesting idea. But um molecularly,
chemically speaking, is is that a real
thing that you're going to wash out the
flavor of what you just ate so you can
prepare for the next uh next item on the
menu, or is it more um for for show? I I
think it's both. Um I I I do think that
you know if you're uh and again
depending on the the details but pallet
cleansers are usually cold and um you
know not uh not too strong in any
direction. Um a little bit tart often.
Um so something cold and tart to break
up a meal where you've gone from one
kind of rich course and you're you're
about to have another rich course
because it's a fancy restaurant. Um, I
think that probably does make sense.
Mhm. Yeah. My next question is a bit
more of a human physiology question, but
I think we're all familiar with the kind
of um taste intensity drift. I can't
think of a better phrase where you know
if you are used to drinking your coffee
black
and you start putting a little bit of
cream in it, maybe a little bit of cream
and a little bit of sugar, going back to
black coffee feels like a step in the
really bitter direction. Um and then if
you start adding more sugar or eating
sweeter foods, it seems like we reset
our threshold for what we consider too
sweet. And there are all sorts of health
implications, negative health
implications around this. But um is that
a real thing? Are are we actually
changing our threshold for what we
consider bitter or sweet? I asked this
because recently I've developed a um I
won't call it an addiction, but um a
love for um cacao beans. And the first
time I bit into one of those, I thought
like those are bitter. And now it's one
of my favorite parts of my morning where
I'm like pop five or six of those in my
mouth and munch on them and they they
taste bitter but they taste so good and
they're kind of barky. They have kind of
like a bark taste to them and I I swear
I can taste the polyphenols although
that's all all cognitive right. So what
I just described is not uncommon uh for
me. It What is this whole thing about
thresholds for for bitterness and sweet
and do they interact? Yeah. Yeah. So
taste is uh hugely malleable as far as
we can tell. And um I think this is best
documented in the literature trying to
find ways to reduce the sodium content
of of um packaged goods. So um
manufacturers have been saying um long
after
um biomedical people were saying we
should cut back on our sodium intake. Uh
we would be happy to do that in our
products but our consumers don't like
our products without the level of salt
that we have in them. So people at the
Monell Chemical Senses Center in
Philadelphia
did some uh pretty systematic studies of
this and what they found was that you
can over time adjust uh thresholds and
preferences for the basic tastes. They
were focusing on salt because that was
the the issue at hand. Uh but there's no
reason to think that that's not not the
case for everything. That if you uh
become
used to a particular level of
stimulation, then that becomes your your
new normal and anything below or above
that is going to stand out for being uh
not quite enough or too much. So I think
the the we're perfectly capable of
training ourselves to uh adjust our
preferences. Um uh it does take time. So
the Monell study I think lasted maybe a
couple of months. Takes time but but
it's certainly doable.
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I stopped eating quote unquote junk food
a long time ago, and I've totally lost
interest. In parallel to that, I enjoy
strawberries and vegetables and meat and
fish and eggs and rice and oatmeal so
much more with each successive year.
Mhm. And I think it's in part because of
this reshaping of of what one considers
flavorful, but I also feel like my
experience of food is getting richer and
richer as opposed to worse and worse.
So, it's kind of interesting and and
kind of counterintuitive. Do we have any
um evidence that if you eat foods closer
to their um let's just say in their
unadulterated form that uh you get more
out of the taste experience than if you
are combining lots and lots of flavors
which is essentially what um processed
foods are. Yeah. Um I I can't point to
uh you know chapter and verse in the in
the literature on this, but I think it
just makes uh common sense that if
you're uh going to start with
strawberries and then add a bunch of
other things um you know, vanilla
extract and uh sugars and uh who knows
what else in order to um Um,
essentially as processed foods try to
do, just kind of wow your mouth with an
overwhelming sensation that you then
want to repeat. Um, rather than slowing
down and enjoying the nuances. Um, the
natural world gives us these amazing
ingredients like strawberries and
blueberries and oats and and so on. And
then to to take those amazing
ingredients which you can kind of savor
for, you know, a minute at a time uh and
and really enjoy. uh to to take those
ingredients and make them um ingredients
rather than things in themselves and
combine them with lots of other things.
Uh for the purpose of stimulation
rather than the purpose of appreciating
and enjoying those individual
components, then you're kind of um
giving up, I would say, most of the
pleasure of eating. you're just fueling
yourself with stuff that um is going to
give you an immediate hit of flavor and
then be gone. And uh
what what was in that food is opaque.
You know, it it may have been
strawberries once upon a time, but uh
it's now been masked by all these other
things. And meanwhile, the one of the
miracles of living on this planet is
strawberries. And the the the just vast
range of materials that plants have gone
to the trouble of preparing for the sake
of pleasing us. And so to to hand that
um that uh responsibility or or that
activity over to manufacturers who are
just looking to make things as cheaply
and quickly as possible I think is a a
mistake.
Do you drink coffee? I do. How do you
prepare your coffee? I uh grind the
beans and fresh every time. Yeah. Is
that important to the taste? It can be.
I mean, it depends on where you get your
your beans from, but um uh and and how
long they last. Uh but uh I I think so.
Yeah. So, you'll mill the beans each
time. Yeah. And then uh you use a a drip
filter, a machine, a French press. A
drip filter. Yeah. Yeah. We have this
colleague of ours at Stanford uh the
Adler who built the the Aerop press
which I've used for years long before
they were involved with the podcast. I I
remember seeing him um uh throwing the
arrow frisbee. So he's an inventor,
right? And um I I think that the air
press is an interesting idea because it
sort of combines French press and filter
drip, right? It's kind of a um but yeah,
there are actually really interesting
data that um coffee has some
perhaps uh it seems um some powerful uh
healthpromoting effects, but it depends
on how you brew it. So, how how are you
brewing it? Not that I'm going to get
you to change the way you do anything
with food or drink. So, I I go back and
forth between a a metal filter and a and
a paper filter. Mhm. And um yeah, I I
lived uh near the park where uh Alan
Adler would uh fly his Arabes. And so I
visited with him and chatted about the
the Aerop press. And I I like the idea a
lot. And it seems to me you can control
the flavor with it much more than you
can with a with a drip system simply
because when it drips, it drips. But you
can hold it into the hold it in the
arrow the arrow press as long as you
want. The temperature of water is so
critical with coffee. Do you take it to
a boil or no? I know people might think,
gosh, they're really getting down into
the weeds, but the flavor of coffee is
completely different. If you take the
water to a boil versus just get it um
near boil or uh cut off the heat a
moment after it starts to boil.
Completely different beverage. Yeah. In
my opinion. Yeah. Yeah. And I actually
prefer uh coffee uh drip coffee uh with
water right off the boil. So I've tried
uh all the different stages and that's
that's just my preference. It's the the
important thing though is to know that
the temperature does make a difference
and um the pleasure you get from it is
going to vary depending on the
temperature you of the water that you
use. So, it's worth knowing that and
then playing around and seeing what you
like best. So, that's the experience
side of it chemically and um what's
happening. I mean, when you when you
brew coffee, what are some of the
interesting uh coffee chemistry
factoids? I'm obsessed with this stuff
as you can tell. Yes. Well, uh so first
of all, there's the the grind size makes
a huge difference. Um because what
you're essentially doing is extracting
uh extractable materials from the
solids. Um and uh a typical cup of
coffee, you're extracting maybe 20% of
the weight of the the original weight of
the coffee. So it's not that much uh
except that it's all the good stuff. And
in fact, the the longer you extract, the
more you extract, the larger the
molecules you're able to remove. And
those larger molecules are the ones that
tend to be tanic and aringent and really
bitter. Yes. The longer you um let the
beans or the the ground beans um be
exposed to the hot water, the more large
molecules you pull off. The large
molecules are the ones that give it that
kind of punch you back in the mouth.
Yeah. Um feeling the tanic. Yeah.
Interesting. And bitter. In fact, it's
kind of a fun experiment. If you if you
love coffee and you're interested in
this kind of thing, what you can do is
um uh make a a um uh set up a filter
with coffee in it and line up four or
five different cups and then pour the
water in and then every 30 seconds or so
move it from cup to cup. And you can see
what comes out early and middle and
late. And what comes out late are these
larger molecules. And late is kind of um
um synonymous or or you can think of
using hotter water as the temperature
equivalent of brewing later and later
that you're getting more stuff out. The
word that comes to mind is stale coffee
that's been on the coffee pot a long
time. Is that that seems to be the
flavor you're describing when you you uh
pull these large molecules out. Is that
right? Well, actually, I would say that
uh so so yeah, the the old fortunately
not so common anymore, the old coffee
earn that you would have at conferences
and things like that or the one where
you pump the Yeah. Yeah. Some people
will know what we're talking about.
Yeah.
The coffee has been in there for a
couple hours probably. uh that to me is
uh stale coffee and that's that's um
changes in in the smaller aromat
aromatic molecules as well as the the
larger ones. But uh I think the the
take-home lesson is that these little
details make a difference. And um if
you're a stickler for coffee just the
way you want it, then doing some of
these experiments to see, you know,
what's what's on either side of the
coffee that you brew uh usually is worth
knowing about. Yeah. I think everyone
could afford to slow down their
experience of consuming food for a
variety of reasons. Some of which uh you
mentioning uh ta like just straight up
better taste and taste experience. Um,
and also with beverages, um, I I consume
a an ungodly amount of caffeine each
day. I'm very caffeine tolerant. I
actually can't drink coffee in the
morning. Um, but in the afternoon, I
absolutely love it. It tastes it tastes
aversive to me early in the day. I don't
know why drink yerba mate early in the
day and throughout the morning. And then
in the afternoon I like a cup of coffee
and the same cup of coffee tastes
absolutely
delightful in the afternoon. I don't
know what it is. Yeah, that's that's
mysterious to me too. Can't claim
pregnancy either. So um you know because
uh that people who are pregnant report
feeling kind of nauseous to certain
tastes at one time a day versus another.
Um is there anything else we can do with
our coffee and tea? you know, so I the
the tanic flavor or the the experience
of a tea being too tanic is awful.
Tastes metallic. Um but when tea's done
right, it's very smooth. What is this
tanic smooth thing in the context of
tea? Is it the same thing? Large
molecules, small molecules. Yeah, it's
basically the same thing. It it also
depends on, you know, what's left in the
tea leaf. So some tees are u just by
definition going to be more tanic than
others because they have been treated
differently in order to make the dried
tea. Um I have u three or four tea
bushes in my backyard and so I make tea
every year. Um whenever the new growth
comes out that's what you make tea with
is What kind of tea do you make? Uh
that's the fun thing about having the
bushes. I make all kinds and I play
around with them and you know see what
happens if I just you know pluck a leaf
and brew that or pluck a leaf let it
wither in the sun and then brew that or
do the various processing techniques.
They give you ulong, which is kind of
medium um manipulated, and then black
tea is very heavily manipulated. But
it's a whole spectrum and it's a lot of
fun to play with. And you're just
putting these directly into hot water.
You put it in a like a metal tea
strainer. For most of them, what you
have to do first is dry them. Mhm. Uh
but then when I make tea, um yeah, it's
just leaves into a pot and then uh
pouring the tea out. I I make small pots
so so that I can try lots of different
things. How do you dry them? Uh that's
another variable. So you can let them
air dry. You can just out on the
counter. Yeah. Yeah. It takes takes um I
live in San Francisco, so it's not very
warm, so it takes a while for them to
dry on the counter. But you can also I
put them in the uh toaster oven. I'll
dry them. A lot of Chinese green teas
even are dried in a in a walk. So I will
do that. Heat them up in the walk. Yeah.
Yeah. Uh toaster oven. Um yeah. As
somebody who's obsessed with yerba mate
since I was a kid, I've been drinking
yerba mate. I love love love it as you
as people know. Um fascinated by this.
So um how much space does one of these
plants take up? Well uh so it it totally
depends. that uh I bought mine
originally as um quarter meter tall um
not exactly seedling because they are
bushes and so they they get ligignified
pretty quickly. They're they're more
what's ligignified? Sorry. Um like like
a tree. So yeah, solid a solid base. Oh,
like ligan. Okay. Yeah. Yeah. Lignified.
Yeah. Um, so, uh, it and one of the cool
things about being alive these days is
that, um, it used to be really hard to
get your hands on these plants, but now
it's very easy. You go go online, you
can find many, many different sources at
many different, uh, maturities. But the
the thing about making tea from tea
plants is that what you're doing is
plucking off the new growth.
That's what you make tea from. It's not
the older leaves, it's the the very
newest ones which are the most
metabolically active and have the most
interesting stuff in them. Interesting
for us when we play with them. So, uh
you actually don't want to make tea from
small plants. You want to let them grow
bigger. And you can control the the size
from from then on up. Um they're they're
often grown in the shade uh for flavor
purposes and so growing them in the
shade is actually fine. You don't have
to have a sunny spot on your uh window
sill, although it'll grow faster in the
sun, but but shade grown tea is uh is
actually preferred. Um and then they're
they're a species of chameleia, so
they're you know not that demanding.
They they need acidic soil, but apart
from that, very easy to grow. I've had
mine now for almost 20 years. And uh um
making tea from them is actually a great
way to keep them in check, you know,
otherwise they would take over the yard.
Amazing. Um then what's is it called?
Tiography. Do you do that too? The
reading of tea leaves. I'm just joking.
Um, tea leaf reading is a probably never
going to make it onto this podcast and
I'll probably upset some people um by
saying that. I'm not convinced that
reading tea leaves is is uh indicative
of much. Yeah. Yeah. Okay. I'm glad
we're in agreement about that. as long
as we're uh you know exploring whether
um longstanding lore within kitchens is
uh reflective of some real chemistry uh
as was the case with umami or the the
French with eating uh salads last.
There's this idea that you shouldn't
have tea at the end of a meal. Is that
true? Um, or is it is it like uh that it
somehow hardens the food in your stomach
or is this just complete like uh is this
complete nonsense? Sounds to me in the
direction of complete nonsense. Great.
Cuz I like tea at the end of a meal. I
like chamomile tea after a meal. Well,
and herbal teas especially because I
mean I could I could make a a just so
story about the the phenolic compounds
in tea cross-linking things in your
stomach or something like that because
polyphenols do that but I can't imagine
that it makes a difference. So
polyphenols cross-link proteins. Yeah.
Yeah. For those who aren't familiar
cross-linking proteins is a way of
changing their configuration and making
generally makes them more rigid. When we
in laboratories when we use fixitive
like formaldahhide or paraphirmaldahhide
um you're taking a tissue usually a
slice of brain tissue which is very
floppy and you need to be less floppy so
you can work with it and so you put it
into parapirmaldihide or formaldahhide
or glutalahhide all these things create
what are called shift bases do I have
that right yeah okay my remembering my
chemistry and they cross-link the
proteins so that then you can pick that
thing up like a well it's a very thin
slab I would not want to do that to the
food in my gut
Right. But nowadays we hear that
polyphenols are like the greatest thing.
So what's the deal with polyphenols? Um
should we consume them separately from
proteins? Yeah. No, I I don't think so
because the the thing about polyphenols,
the reason that they do this
cross-linking
uh is the fact that they're reactive.
And what that means is you you put them
in with almost anything else and they're
going to get bound and then you're going
to swallow them uh and they're going to,
you know, make it down to your lower GI
tract and then there they may be, you
know, freed up because the whatever
they're bound to gets to be digested and
so on. But there it's not a bad thing
necessarily. In fact, it's it's probably
a good thing. So, but the the thing
about polyphenols early on in the
process, if you think about what would
happen if, for example, you take milk
and add some uh wine to it and let it
sit, it'll curdle. And that's because
the polyphenols are cross-linking the u
the milk proteins. And so, that's
basically the kind of thing that's
happening inside us. years ago, there
was a semi-popular diet. This was in the
early 90s, um, that argued that you
shouldn't combine carbohydrates and
proteins, that you should actually eat
them separately. And I've also heard it
said that you want to eat fruit before a
meal or away from a meal, but not after
a meal, because it can give you
digestive issues.
I'm sure people differ tremendously in
terms of what they can consume. I I'm
actually one of these people. I if I
have a stomach ache, it means something
is seriously wrong. Yeah. I mean, I can
eat everything except metal shavings and
my stomach doesn't hurt. I don't get
headaches or stomach aches. I get other
things, but I don't get those. Some
people are very sensitive to food
combinations. I get stomach aches really
easily. So, um, regardless of one's
sensitivity to different foods, are
there certain foods that it would make
sense to keep them separate if you have
digestive issues? you know, um, you
know, bloating or, um, just like
gurgling stomach, this kind of thing or
worse. Yeah. So, um, my understanding
is, well, first of all, I know for a
fact that, uh, we have cycled through
every possible permutation of these
theories over the course of the last 150
years um, with no one of them actually
being touted now as the the answer. So
to me what that says is there is no the
answer for this kind of question and
that it really does depend on individual
physiology and what what people can
tolerate
um for their own particular reasons. I
don't think there are any um principles
by which you can choose to uh combine or
not combine foods um that would make a
difference to your health. Also, it's um
you know, we're eating so many different
things so many times a day that uh it I
think would be really hard to kind of
tease out any particular relationships
like this. And even if they do exist,
they probably exist only for subpopuls
and not for the world at large. So
translated, what I'm hearing is you have
to figure out what works for you.
doesn't sound like you believe in one
particular um nutrition plan or diet
according to any particular science, but
it does sound like you leaning toward
the idea that certain diets, for lack of
a better word, will work better for
different people. Yeah, I guess I would
I would certainly say that it would
depend on the the individual. And I'm
I'm not sure that I would buy in
necessarily to the idea of an optimal
diet in the first place because um
unless optimal included
uh tremendously varied,
which is kind of, you know, uh uh in a
way the opposite of optimal. you know,
it's it's it making sure to try uh a lot
of different things all the time rather
than huing to one particular um
approach. So, um yeah, I I think we just
don't know enough to to say anything
definitive. We talk about the uh ever
problematic onions and garlic.
There's a lot of chemistry around onions
and garlic. uh most notably the crying
caused by uh onions. What is the basis
of the crying caused by onions and how
do we mitigate it? So uh plants in that
family, the aliium family uh so onions
and garlic are close relatives. Um they
the way that they defend themselves from
animals that might want to eat them and
they're not fruits. are actually roots
or um rootlike structures that are meant
to give rise to the next generation. So
to the plant they're very important.
They're defended with these sulfur
molecules that in the intact route are
uh inactive. But then the moment the
tissues are disrupted, enzymes get to
work and generate from those uh
precursors kind of um uh chemical
warfare cylinders. The the cylinders are
opened and uh we end up with these um uh
molecules that can fly through the air.
They're volatile. We don't have to
actually touch the the onion. they they
come to us these molecules
uh and they're meant to do exactly what
they do which is make us uh miserable.
So the fact that they're uh volatile
means that you can u protect yourself by
doing a couple of different things. You
can wear goggles which pres prevents
volatile molecules from getting to your
eyes. you can do the uh the cutting uh
interspersed with just a rinse in water
because that'll the the um molecules are
being generated at the surface that
you're generating by doing the cutting.
So if occasionally you just rinse those
surfaces then um the volatiles go away
and they don't bother you as much. You
can also get um um non-pungent varieties
of onions which which exist. U Maui
onions are the the best known of those
and they just don't make those sulfur
molecules so that they don't uh they
don't uh irritate us. I'm reminded that
our colleague at Stanford um Dr. Sean
Mackey who runs the pain division when
he was on this podcast he said that
despite many years of traditional uh
training in medicine and thinking that a
lot of people's reported uh gut issues
were perhaps psychosmatic and all this
stuff he that he himself had the
experience of um getting a lot of gut
pain at one point in his life just and
not knowing what the origin was and it
seemed like it was after certain meals
and not others and he did all the
necessary self-experimentation to
pinpoint that it was onions that were
causing this very what sound like pretty
severe um gastric issues and pain. Um
and it was the histamines caused by
ingesting onions, right? These little
packets of molecules that cause
inflammation. And so, uh, that in part
converted into this idea that, you know,
when people talk about their their
negative experiences with certain foods
that, um, they're not making this stuff
up, that it's very likely that they have
some sort of food sensitivity. And I
think now the the landscape of quote
unquote traditional medicine is starting
to become more open to this. But um in
hearing what you just described like
these warfare molecules coming out of
onions um stimulating a negative re this
designed to create an aversive reaction
in animals that would eat them and here
we are eating these things and then the
idea that it would be bad for certain
people at first seemed like shocking to
the standard uh medical community. But
now one of the you know leading experts
in the in the world of pain medicine is
like hey listen histamines from onions
are a problem for people with gut issues
sometimes not always. So I think um
there's an interesting kind of
intersection of of food chemistry
individual experience and where medicine
and is headed. It's it's not crazy.
These are chemicals coming out of food.
Makes sense. Yeah. Exactly. And maybe
the the most prominent example of an
aversive chemical being generated in
foods that we love is capsaasin in
peppers. So hot peppers, the the uh the
ones that are spicy are spicy because
they contain a particular molecule that
is designed to be aversive to animals so
that animals won't um chew up those
fruits before the seeds can be
dispersed. And interestingly the the
animals that the plant depends on for
dispersal are birds and birds don't uh
respond to capsaasin. They don't have
the really Yeah. Yeah. So this is a a
molecule that that's designed
specifically for mammals like us to get
us to leave those those uh fruits alone.
And um some people can handle
tremendously noxious, shall we say, uh
levels of capsaasin and other people are
very very sensitive and and um can't
can't handle hardly any. So yeah, it's
all part of this um this larger picture
of the world giving us these materials
to feed ourselves and our working out
our u negotiations with those materials
so that we can enjoy them and be
nourished by them. I want to explore
spiciness a bit more in a moment. Are
there any data that there are genetic
differences uh among people in terms of
the density of um I think the capsain
receptor is a substance P receptor or
something like that or sweet receptors
or umami receptors that would perhaps
not predict but partially explain why
some people are really averse to spice
other people pursue spice um and why
some foods perhaps just like don't taste
good to certain people or even give them
a gut issues or uh this sort of thing.
So the the best studied uh aspect of
this is taste rather than smell. Smell
is difficult because there are so many
different receptors and thousands and
thousands of uh smells but taste is a
relatively uh confined subject and there
are um what are called super tasters and
this has to do eventually I'm sure with
genetics but the way this category of
people was first defined was by simply
counting taste buds on the tongue. So
they they had a particular area in which
they could look and they stained the the
taste buds and then simply counted them
enumerated them on uh thousands of
different people. And what they found
was as you might expect uh there are
some people with very very few in a
given area and others where they're so
crowded together you can barely count
them. Wow. So high pixel density, low
pixel density. Some people have the
iPhone 1. Some people have the iPhone
whatever we're on now of uh 16 or
something or 13 uh density. Wow. Yeah.
Yeah. So clearly that's going to affect
the way you experience whatever you put
in your mouth. And um uh the the
investigators gave the name super taster
to the people who had the highest
density of um of receptors. It it's
unfortunate because, you know, the the
term does have um connotations that that
are that really don't belong. It's just
some people have lots of taste receptors
and other people don't have very many.
Well, I guess the question is, do the
people who have higher density of taste
receptors have better taste
discrimination? Can they tell two uh
foods apart or beverages apart on a
dimension of say sweetness that somebody
with lower uh density receptors can't?
So, that's a a really good question and
um my I I I don't know exactly the
answer to that, but what I do know is
that um you would think that super
taster sounds great. That's what I want
is to be able to taste more. In fact,
super tasters are uh especially
sensitive to bitterness and to acidity
to the point that uh foods that other
people enjoy just fine they find
aversive simply because the the
sensation is overwhelming. So I used to
teach a course at the French Culinary
Institute no longer with us uh in New
York and we would often have chefs in
the uh course along with just ordinary
people. The and we would do a a taste
test to a a proxy for counting the
number of taste buds. can give people a
very bitter substance at a at a known
level on a little piece of filter paper
and then ask people to rate does this
taste extremely bitter, kind of bitter,
or what what bitter. Um, and uh, the
chefs would always be uh, upset if they
did not score as super tasters because
super means, you know, you're a really
good taster. But, um, talk to them and
you find out that, um, it's often
difficult for chefs, uh, to kind of
match the flavor preferences of their
customers. And one of the reasons for
that can be that if you're a super
taster as a chef, you're going to dial
down all kinds of things that uh to an
ordinary taster may leave the food
tasting bland. So um it's something that
uh there there's no right thing to be,
but if you're a professional in the food
world, you need to know what you are and
how to compensate for it if you if you
need to.
I'd like to take a quick break and
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to get early access to function. Do you
salt your fruit? A few years ago, there
was this like uh trend of salting fruit.
Remember that? Um I tried it. I love
fruit. I love salt. Um wasn't such a fan
of salting fruit, but I don't want to
dismiss it right off the bat. Does it do
anything interesting to fruit in a way
that should have me return to that?
Yeah. I know. I I think it's it's a
completely individual thing. My
grandmother would salt her grapefruit.
Oh, yeah. Oh, no. We would put sugar on
our grapefruit when we were kids. Yeah.
The sucrossse. Okay. She would salt her
grapefruit. She would she would salt her
grapefruit. And it turns out, we know
now that in fact salt and bitter are
kind of opposing um sensations. And you
can actually diminish the sensation of
bitterness by upping the salt. So she
was making it less bitter without adding
sugar, which to her was was important.
She used um you know uh the the the
artificial sweetener of the day in her
tea in the morning. That's interesting.
I I know people who put a tiny tiny bit
of salt in their coffee. Mhm. To
according to them, take the edge off,
meaning to take the bitterness out. It
makes sense. Yeah. Yeah. Based on the
chemistry, this pushpull of of of bitter
and um salty salty taste. Yeah. Pretty
much everything in the nervous system is
push pull. Yeah. And that that goes, by
the way, for things like beer. Uh some
people will add a pinch of uh salt to
their beer. The only place in the world
where I enjoy beer is um in Munich
where they serve beer. Well, maybe it's
the schnitzle that they're it's nearby.
I love that stuff. Um but they'll come
around with a heater and they'll heat
your beer so that it's room temperature
and it completely changes the taste. The
bubbles are small in those beers. They
taste to me just a little bit sweeter.
And um I asked them about this and and
the idea that you would drink a cold
beer to them was like, "What are you
talking about?" I mean, you might as
well tell an American that they should
um have their apple pie with um with uh
spaghetti on top or something. It's
crazy. Let's talk about alcohol. Even
though I'm not a drinker, uh I know
people enjoy a little bit of wine or
spirits or or beer. And I'm I'm suppose
as long as people aren't alcoholics and
they're of age like you know uh small
amounts of consumption are are are uh
probably okay. Um zero is better. But um
so let's talk about wine and beer.
What's the the brief history on on this?
When do people start fermenting
fruit and hops and um this whole
business of creating poison to ingest um
because it tastes good and gets them a
little bit inebriated? What what is
this? So, um, this is actually an an
area where we're learning more every
year because people are, especially
archaeological sites are pushing dates
back and so on and finding evidence for
this kind of thing. The the ability to
detect uh residues in pots is uh is just
amazing these days. But um my guess is
and it's been argued that um we have
been enjoying alcohol since before we
were homo sapiens that really yes that
primates in fact uh when you observe
them will go after uh fermenting fruit
and enjoy it and you know seek out and
pick those fruits and not not others.
And I bet uh I it's not a literature I
keep up with, but I bet that there are
some behavioral studies as well to in to
suggest whether or not the uh ingestion
of the fruit is actually having an
effect on their coordination, for
example. I I bet there are studies like
that. Um so we've been enjoying um
alcohol before we were homo sapiens. And
in the archaeological record, um the
dates have been pushed back now to the
the very beginnings of agriculture
and in many different places. So, China,
uh the Middle East, um it's just um an
attractive
uh possibility.
uh which probably did simply start with
um you know collecting a bunch of fruit,
not getting around to eating it right
away and you know it beginning to smell
interesting and you try it and it does
things. Humans daring other humans to
try things
which I think is also by the way uh how
chocolate was discovered uh or the the
possibilities for chocolate. So cacao
beans are the seeds in a fruit and the
current thinking is that um the fruits
were gathered for the fruit and the
seeds which are large were simply thrown
in a pile near the near the fire and uh
there were enough residues of the fruit
on the seeds for those residues to
ferment and that's the first step in
making chocolate.
So with respect to alcohol, um I mean
alcohol is as you mentioned a long
history um I've heard it said that
despite so much fascination and money
spent on different wines depending on uh
the make and the label and the year in
particular and how the grapes were that
year, depending on how the weather was
that year and the soil and you know so
much goes into this. It's a huge
industry. Um, but every once in a while
there'll be a study published where
they'll do a blind taste test and some
of the most experienced um, aka expert
uh, wine drinkers won't be able to
discern uh, the finest wine or near
finest wine from a far more trivial
inexpensive wine. And that always seems
to send everyone into disarray for a
couple of weeks and then everyone goes
right back to um distributing their wine
consumption according to their income
and what they perceive to be the better
wine. It's kind of a wild um foray into
human psychology. Like if this is true
that these expert wine drinkers can't
discern like a $20 bottle of wine from a
$2,000 bottle of wine and yet they
insist on returning to the the practice
of preferentially buying it consuming
more expensive wines if they have the
means. I mean that says all sorts of
things about humans and the way we place
value on things. But I want to know
are the more expensive wines actually
truly better from the perspective of
taste and um through the lens of uh
let's just say a uh a novice and an
expert wine drinker. What's the deal?
Yeah. Yeah. Uh so this I think is
really complicated in all kinds of
interesting ways. Um, and I think to
begin with, it's true that people have
uh done things like
um serve red wines, expensive red wines
alongside white wines that had been dyed
red and asked people as asked experts to
to judge them and comment on them and
the experts being fooled by the by the
food coloring. So I think it's it's in
large part to begin with a a matter of
what we're expecting to happen when we
taste something. Uh and uh if we have
expectations then those expectations are
going to influence our perception. Uh
and there are a couple of wonderful
books by uh a neurobiologist named
Gordon Shepard on exactly this uh these
subjects. Um so it's it's a it's a uh um
a complicated loop. We we have
expectations. We taste something. The
expectations play into what we think we
experience. Uh and our conclusions from
that experience, which is no knock on
the wines. It's just the the fact of our
imperfect nature as sensory beings. Uh
then when it comes to the wines
themselves and the kind of variation
that you find uh from
uh from different kinds of wine makers,
locations, uh weather,
treatment during the wine- making
process, all all those different things.
Um, if you work at it, you can train
yourself to notice minute differences
just as you can train yourself to notice
minute differences in all kinds of other
things that that we care about. Uh, art
connoisseurship, for example, you know,
is uh knowing something about the
history of art and u and about the
materials and that kind of thing. They
all play into our judgment. And what
we're talking about when we're talking
about the the uh whether a wine is
better than another, it's a judgment.
And uh I think the more you know about
uh if if you care to know, the more you
know about uh a particular uh material,
the better you're able to either
appreciate it or depreciate it uh
depending. And wine is just fascinating
material. I mean, it's uh it's it's um
made every year from all kinds of
different grapes in all kinds of
different parts of the world uh by all
kinds of different people. And uh they
all taste kind of different um depending
on all those different factors. And if
you're interested in those kinds of um
uh distinctions and if you get pleasure
from taking a sip and saying, "Ah, yeah,
it was a that was a warm year in that in
that vineyard and tastes a little riper
than the other bottle that I have in my
cellar." That's that's great. That means
you're, you know, using your human
capacities to the utmost. Um if you're
just drinking to drink, not so much. Um,
so I think it depends on the not only
the the product but the but the
consumer. Mhm. Like so many domains of
life, it sounds like uh curiosity uh
lends itself to a deeper and better
relationship with something. A guest on
this podcast who himself was a comedian
um said exactly what you said. He said
um which is only to say that you agree
uh that the more you learn about
something the way a movie was made or
visual art or a song the more you come
to appreciate it with one exception
comedy. You either think something's
funny or not. You can learn you can
learn about the process that comedian
went through. You can learn about the
context and if it's not funny to you,
it's not going to become funny. So it
seems to be like one exception in the
universe of experiences. But uh even
though we weren't talking about food, I
think he would totally agree with you um
on this point,
which is a perfect segue for my next
question, which is about cheese.
When you walk into a cheese shop in say
Denmark or in Northern Europe, do you
like it or do you feel overwhelmed?
Because for those who have, they know
it's intense. Yeah, it's one of my
favorite things actually. Um something
that I learned to like uh when our
family lived in France for a year and I
decided uh you know the French make a
lot of cheese. I should learn something
about that. And I I went to uh a little
trailer at one of the farmer mark
farmers markets in the little village we
were living in. And in my broken French
said I was I would like to learn about
cheese. I got like a 10-minute lecture
on how Americans could never appreciate
cheese properly, but then okay, I'll
I'll tutor you. And so and I had a
wonderful year-long
uh um
uh just every every week uh a session
with this cheese maker who was bringing
she herself did not make uh most of the
cheeses she sold but she would sell what
was proper seasonally for that um for
that place. Anyway, I learned a
tremendous amount, fell in love with the
the diversity, uh, you know, starting
with basically the same material, maybe
two or three different animals, kinds of
milks, but starting with the same bland
material and ending up with this
tremendous range of flavors is uh, I
think a tribute to human ingenuity to to
be able to come up with that kind of
diversity. How long has cheese been um,
made and consumed by humans?
uh since apparently very early in the
domestication of animals, maybe even
before animals were fully domesticated.
So again, we're talking 7,000 8,000
years ago in the in the case of dairy
products, that's pretty much in the in
the um central Asian area. Can we talk
about the chemistry of cheese and
fermentation? Sure. Yeah. First, a
question about a specific cheese. uh if
one looks online um which is always a
dangerous thing to do uh if you're in
search of real information. You have to
be very discerning. Um there's this idea
that certain cheeses in particular
parmesan cheeses are so rich with the
amino acid tyrrosine that they create uh
because tyrrosine is the amino acid
precursor to dopamine that they create
um a mild high of sorts. Um now this of
course could also be that people just
really enjoy the taste or both. Yeah.
But makes sense at some level. What's
known about the chemistry of cheeses and
um the experience of cheeses? Yeah.
Well, so the the the
thing that makes cheese much more
interesting than milk is the fact that
um microbes have been living in it and
on it for um weeks or months or years
and slowly breaking down the proteins
and the fats and generating these small
molecules that we were talking about
before that have flavor that uh that
give us the sensations of taste and
smell. The longer that process goes on,
for the most part, the more of those
breakdown products there are and the
richer and more more varied the flavor
is. Now, you can sometimes get very
strong flavored cheeses very quickly. Uh
cam bear is an example of uh cheese like
that where you um in the cheesem process
essentially encourage the changes to
happen very rapidly. But if you um dial
back on the process and let it take
longer, you end up with a much more
diverse uh array of array of molecules.
And in the case of Parmesan and the
those crystals that you end up with in
cheeses that are 2 three years old um uh
which are crunchy and kind of uh they're
the the sign of authenticity you know
that this cheese is actually that old
and uh it's worth paying double the
price that you would pay for a young
version. Um those are uh usually uh
tyrrosine or other amino acid um um
derivatives that are uh that have been
broken off of the protein chains and
then because the cheese has slowly been
dehydrating
u they've become insoluble and begin to
crystallize out. And so that's why
they're a sign of um uh of the process
of aging and also the the time of aging.
Um the thing about it though and the for
me the question mark is uh that
tyrrosine was there already in the
proteins and so is having it crystallize
out somehow making it more immediately
available to have an effect on us? uh
you know we don't have to digest the
protein anymore now. It just you know
pops right into us the moment we put it
in our mouths. Maybe that has something
to do with u the effect that people are
reporting. When smoke flavors are added
to cheese. Is it through actual smoking
process? Yes. If it's authentic. Yeah.
If it's authentic. Yeah. the cheeses
have been um kept in a room with
something smoldering and that was often
in the old old days and still to some
extent these days kind of like um curing
hams
uh bugs are going to want to uh enjoy
that really rich nutritious material and
so you have to ward them off and smoke
is a good way to do it. Ah that makes
sense. So to keep bugs away, you fill
the room with smoke and then you end up
with food that tastes smoky. Yeah. And
then you tell people that it tastes
good. I'm not a fan of smoke. I don't
know why. Yeah. Maybe it's because most
smoky flavors seem to come from a kind
of a It tastes chemical to me. It
doesn't taste like smoke. It tastes like
a tastes like um smoke generated from uh
um drywall mixed with uh some styrofoam.
It doesn't it doesn't it's not it's not
like a nice uh organic in the real sense
of the word um natural flavor to me. It
tastes chemical. Yeah. Yeah. No, I I I
know exactly what you mean. I also think
that most smoked foods are oversm
smoked. You know, that that ends up
being the only flavor that the food has
and instead of being a kind of in the
background
uh flavor. So, and what about in
bourbons and things like that when
people get really excited about a smoky
bourbon? Is that um why would you do
that? Because I can't imagine that the
bugs are going to get into Well, bugs
like ferment, right? Is that right? Um
actually, one great way to attract bugs
to your picnic is to have vinegar there.
They love Yes. the smell of vinegar.
Yeah. Yeah. So, in the case of um uh
barrels for distilled beverages, that's
a uh as far as I can tell, just a
completely cultural thing. You know,
that um in order to make barrels, you
have to uh heat them in order to make
the wood pliable. Mhm. And probably
someone in the process of making barrels
discovered that if you, you know, if it
burns out of control for a few seconds,
that may be not such a bad thing 10
years down the line. So, um it's
certainly not essential to the flavor of
uh of alcohols. And a lot of, for
example,
um whiskies may may be marketed as
having been aged in used cherry casks.
So you don't get the the toasting that
you get if you're making fresh perils.
So I think it's it's a matter of taste
and and also just the the skill with
which that flavor has been incorporated
into whatever the the food or drink is.
On the topic of fermentation, our
colleague, I assume to be mentioning a
lot of our colleagues, but we've got a
lot of spectacular colleagues at
Stanford at Justin Sonnenberg
and to be fair, his wife Erica, who's
also contributed critically to this
work, have uh made discoveries
essentially that consuming low sugar
fermented foods on a daily basis can
lower inflammation,
markers of inflammation
even more so than increasing one's fiber
intake, which is itself interesting.
What have you learned about fermentation
chemistry? Fermentation as a as a human
practice. Um, for health benefit, sure.
For taste, but just as as a thing.
Fermentation is a pretty pretty wild
thing that we would do this. Yeah. Yeah.
Yeah. Well, so I uh my sense is that it
began um we were talking earlier about
uh about alcohol began with just
observation. you um have fruits that are
overripe and they're sitting on the
forest floor and they sit long enough
and they begin to smell different and
look different and fizz and all kinds of
things and that's that's interesting.
So, um I my sense is that fermentation
has been discovered essentially by every
population on the uh on the earth,
including the the Arctic, where you
think it might take a while for things
to go on. But in fact um products that
are translated into English as stinkfish
are among the most prized of the of the
foods in the Inuit um regions of the of
the pole. How do they prepare the stink
fish? Uh essentially by uh letting it
sit. So that's one of the appeals of
fermentation is you don't have to do a
whole lot. you just uh catch the food,
whatever it is, and um um put it in a
container of some kind. Uh some
stingfish are made simply by digging a
pit and burying it and covering it over.
Um and then there's there's a
connoisseurship of of these foods. Um
it's a lot of fun actually to go back
and read the accounts of explorers to
these regions and the the locals are you
know uh trying to show the greatest
hospitality by serving them foods that
they can't bear even to get near. Um uh
salmon eggs another example highly
prized uh but after they'd been
fermented. So uh this is caviar. Yeah.
Yeah. Caviar. the most expensive foods
on the planet. Exactly. Exactly. And not
just for um kind of for show reasons. I
mean the the omega-3 content of caviar
is like off the charts and the um there
are other micronutrients in in caviar
that make it this is like the these are
the sturgeon eggs typically, right? Yes.
Yeah. That's right. Yeah. Yeah. which uh
production of which almost disappeared
20 years ago and now is booming because
people are now farming these fish. The
fish were endangered. Uh they're now
farming them all over the place and
trying uh caviar from different species
that had never been tried before. So um
uh that's actually part of um what I
would say about fermentation these days
as well is that once um
the the formerly isolated populations on
the earth began communicating with each
other and sharing expertise and sharing
knowledge of these materials which has
happened of course um hugely in the last
20 years or so. Um local traditional
ways of doing things have now not only
spread to other parts of the world, but
gotten people to ask the question, well,
if you can do this kind of fermentation
with this raw material, what about doing
it with a different raw material? Um so
um you know miso was traditionally made
with soybeans. Now it's being made with
peas in in uh northern Europe and just
on and on and on. um uh which I think is
both tremendously difficult to keep up
with but also tremendously exciting
because it means that we're now um
seeing how
traditional food materials can be
transformed by the action of microbes
that we've we kind of know about but
only know about in very specific uh
contexts. Uh and so I I think the next
couple of decades are going to bring
forth uh just all kinds of new foods
that will be initially strange and maybe
off-putting because they're new, but
also they're going to be, you know, this
this era's um versions of miso and uh
soy sauce and beer and wine and so on.
So exciting times ahead. Yeah, we we
forget that we're still evolving,
you know, especially when we hear about
all the problems of the world. We we
forget that we're still evolving and
that some of the technologies around
food and drink are not just creating
less healthy versions, but as you
pointed out are are creating new new
hybrids of information, new hybrids of
actual foods. It's not all about
returning to ancient ways. you know, the
conversations like this of slowing down
and and one's intake of food and chewing
and appreciating and um thinking about
preparation of food, not just eating out
of packages. One hopes um people I think
if there's one thing that the vegans,
the vegetarians, the omnivores, and the
carnivores all agree on is that eating
fewer processed foods is better. That's
the one thing they all seem to agree on.
Yeah. Um I have a question about you.
actually have several questions about
you which is what motivated this
exploration into into food and
chemistry. I mean you're taking a very
different approach to all of this. Um I
should point out that your original
training at Caltech was in astronomy
then you shifted to another field and
then you ended up in this field of of
food science chemistry.
um you know a lot about poetry. So um I
don't think I've ever met anyone with
that background. You are clearly an N of
one as we say. What what got you into
this whole thing? And and and more
importantly perhaps what motivates you
like what's what's where's the the
texture of interest? Yeah. Is it like to
taste as many things as possible or is
it to link levels of analysis? What what
is it? That last question is a really
good one. And I'll have to I'll think
about that as I answered the first
parts. So yeah, I started out um in love
with science and with astronomy in
particular and you know built a
telescope and um uh I still look up at
Orion every time it's in the sky and the
and the skies are clear. Um
went to Caltech to do astronomy. decided
after a couple of years there that the
um the physics was just not enough of a
motivator for me to keep going. The
physics had at that point had gotten
pretty
um hairy for me. And so I decided, you
know, I I still love to look at the
stars, but maybe I'm not going to do
astronomy. I then looked around for
other things. and the people I I had
always loved the humanities, poetry and
novels in particular. Uh I was going to
transfer to Stanford actually and my uh
literature professors at Caltech and
there were a few um convinced me to stay
and they said what you can do is you can
stay with us cherrypick the science
because you don't have to take as much
anymore and we'll get you a desk at the
Huntington Library and the research
library and we'll we'll give you
tutorials and we'll take care of you And
that's exactly what happened. It was a
fantastic
um uh education that still included
plenty of science, but it was on my
terms and not the not the discipline's
terms. Uh and then I went off to
graduate school in literature
uh having been um uh inspired by my
teachers at Caltech.
did a degree there uh on the poetry of
John Keats
uh and then couldn't get a job teaching
and so my um my mentors back at Caltech
and also at in graduate school said well
you know you have the science in your
background you should do something with
that and um long story short
conversations with friends over the
dinner table and drinking wine and so on
um a question came up. Why is it that
beans give you gas?
And uh we all laughed. I laughed and
then I went to the library
and I found out why. And I came back and
told my friends and we had a good laugh.
And then I thought maybe I mean people
are interested in food and this is kind
of a fun fact about food that most
people don't know. maybe I can do this
kind of thing. Uh, so I began to look a
little more into it. And then in the
meantime, a scout for one of the
publishing houses in New York had a
girlfriend who was in the same group and
she reported to him. He reported to the
publisher. Publisher called up out of
the blue and said, "We hear you're
writing a book about the science of
food."
And so from that moment on, I was
writing a book about the science of
food. I He said, "Yes, I am." Yes. Uh
why why do we get gas from beans? And is
it true that soaking them in water prior
to cooking them can uh remove some of
that unward effect?
So it turns out that the the answer was
discovered by scientists working for
NASA. And if you think about NASA and
their missions back in the 70s, you can
understand why they would want to
control something like this. So, uh it
turns out that beans contain in addition
to uh starch and sugars, uh kind of
intermediates,
uh carbohydrates that our bodies do not
have the enzymes to break down into
sugars. So we can take care of starch
but but not these um intermediate size
molecules and so they pass into our gut
unchanged and then we have plenty of
microbes who are happy to see those and
and uh digest them and in the process
they produce CO2 and hydrogen gas and
that's what we end up experiencing. So
the way to deal with that is to uh
soaking the beans will work. Um that
leeches out some of these molecules
which are small and so soluble in water.
Um even more effective is to actually
bring that water after it's been soaking
to a boil and then pour that water off.
That that will get rid of more. But the
other point I would make about these uh
so-called oligosaccharides is these days
we value uh the life in our lower tract
and these are the creatures that those
molecules are in fact feeding. So and it
has been shown that you can you can uh
or your system can kind of adapt. Uh so
yeah, the first few times you have uh um
beans or light lentils or whatever it
might be, um you may have some
discomfort, but the more frequently you
eat it, the better you're able to
tolerate it or your your system is able
to tolerate it without generating the
the discomfort. Yeah, that seems to be a
repeating theme, which is that the more
we eat certain foods, the more our gut
microbiome adapts to those foods. I
think that we're just at the beginning
of understanding the gut microbiome, but
it's such a key player. So, what um do
you make it a point to eat fermented
foods um given what you know about the
microbiome? What are your favorite
fermented foods or drinks? Yeah. Um, I
uh have learned to like kimchi. So, that
was not initially uh a food that I
sought out, but I I've really come to
like it. Um, and um
uh you know, that that may really be the
only
uh unusual fermented food that I seek
out. I mean, I um I love fruits and
vegetables and and legumes and eat lots
of those and kind of figure that, you
know, things will take care of
themselves down there for the most part,
but uh kimchi is something I've come to
love. Yeah, I haven't quite gotten to
the kimchi thing. I I think it's because
a few years ago I brought it into my lab
when I was in San Diego and my entire
lab complained except one person, my
Korean student who absolutely loved it.
So I think some of these things are are
acquired early in life, right? And
that's a question I was going to ask
earlier. Do you think that when young
kids in particular like don't want
broccoli or they um don't want certain
foods that it's reflecting an actual
real aversion that's based on something
important about their chemistry? Yeah.
Yeah. So my uh again I don't think the
literature is clear but my sense based
on having had a couple of kids go
through this and just thinking it
through.
Uh I I think what's going on is that
kids have a heightened sense of taste
and smell. Um and very early in
development they're um omnivorous.
They're they'll put anything in their
mouths. then at a certain point they
become much more conservative and um and
I think also much more sensitive to
nuances you know the sulfurousness of
broccoli and that kind of thing. So um
but I think it's also uh both temporary
and uh you can work with it. So in the
case of our kids,
um we just made our regular dinners
every every day. Um and we would say to
our kids, you're welcome to eat as much
or as little of what we have as you
want, but this is what we have. And
there was one food that neither my son
or daughter could tolerate. And we ended
up just deciding, okay, that's literally
off the table. you don't have to worry
about this one. And it was um amaranth
leaves. Whoa. Uh which I was growing in
the garden cuz you know I'm trying to
learn about everything and uh and
they're interesting. Uh but they have a
very particular texture and it was the
texture that they just you know it made
them gag and I didn't want to put them
through that. So fair. So it wasn't just
saying I don't like this. It was they
were trying. If nothing else, one can
still thrive uh in life without having
eaten amaranth leaves. Is it true that
some people like and some people loathe
cilantro because they taste different
things in the cilantro? Like the
experience of cilantro is fundamentally
different for some people than others. I
like it. My father, he he hates it.
Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. So cilantro is a
really interesting case and um the
subject of a series of uh studies at the
Monell Chemical Senses Center. Uh they
were they in addition to all kinds of
other things would go to local county
fairs and ask people a ask first of all
for twins. if if they saw twins on the
grounds, they would bring them over to
the booth and ask them both to taste uh
cilantro and and say what they thought.
Bottom line is um um cilantro has
molecules that uh kind of uh I was going
to say crossreact. That's not exactly
it. They they're also found in soaps.
And so for a lot of people, depending on
whether they've been acculturated to
cilantro early in their lives or not, if
they're only encountering it as an
adult, the first thing they're going to
think is that tastes like soap. I don't
want to put that in my mouth. Uh unless,
you know, you're in company where it's
important to go along with the with the
gang. Um, so there's a good uh basis for
this kind of divergent set of reactions,
but it has more to do with the the
cultural appearance of those same flavor
molecules than with the material itself.
I see. So for those of you that don't
like cilantro, you can uh cite this uh
discussion. I have a colleague at uh
Harvard um Katherine Doolock who studies
the oldactory system. You're probably
familiar with Katherine's work and um
she's French uh as the last name
suggests and she would tell this story
about different students and postocs in
her lab who come from a variety of
different countries um being split down
the middle in terms of their experience
of microwave popcorn. that some people
in her lab like love the smell of
microwave popcorn, but then there's a
separate population of people in her lab
that experience the smell of microwave
popcorn as exactly the same as pungent
vomit.
And she claims it's on the basis of a
variant in one of these olfactory
receptors, which also speaks to the
relationship between smell and taste.
You know, like nobody wants to eat
something that smells putrid. Yeah.
Yeah. Generally, one would hope. What
are some other examples of foods where
people tend to diverge on the basis of
something
uh known to be or almost certainly
biological as opposed to just I wasn't
raised eating that or that seems weird.
So, one thing that comes to mind that
isn't quite that um is u parmesan
cheese, which um has as one of its
primary uh flavor components butyric
acid, which is also the main thing that
makes vomit smell like vomit. And some
people uh just can't eat Parmesan cheese
for that reason. Others don't notice it.
Uh others kind of notice it, but it's
okay. It's part of being parmesan
cheese. Uh so a lot depends on not only
the sort of the individual apparatus
experiencing of food but then also
what's kind of normal for that food to
contain. And because um uh cow's milk is
especially rich in
um butyric acid as one of the components
of the fats. That's what you get when
the the breakdown takes place. I like
the example of Parmesan and cheese. More
for me.
Yes. More for me. My last question is um
not in the domain of food or chemistry,
but um it's about poetry. This is a
science health podcast, but you're here
and and you have the expertise. So, I'm
going to ask you. I love poetry. What is
something that you learned about Keats
that most people don't know that is at
least to you particularly interesting?
and then I'll ask you to suggest uh a
Keat starter pack. Um maybe name one one
Keats poem that everyone should go read.
We'll put a link to it. But first
question is uh you spent considerable
amount of time researching Keats and
learning about him and his work. So um
what's something that we're not going to
learn elsewhere? Yeah. Yeah. Uh I think
one of the most important things about
his his development
uh and the reason that he wrote the kind
of poetry he did which was often um
concerned with
uh with death eventually ultimately
um is that he started out life as a
medical student.
He was a medical student at uh
uh Guys Hospital in London which still
exists and has a long
um uh amazing history. Um he was a
medical student. He uh had a mother and
a brother who both died of TB and he
attended them uh in their illnesses.
And uh
so to know that and then to read uh a
poem like to autumn which is the the
poem that I would uh uh suggest people
read
I think just adds a dimension of um
um
uh appreciation to that poem because
there's there's nothing about death in
the poem. It's just a description of a
natural scene in the autumn. Um but that
those experiences are there and uh
knowing that and reading not only that
poem but but many others um I'm sure it
was um well I I think he wrote poetry
both to
um comfort people
and to kind of work through what it is
that life is all about that he needs to
come to terms with in order to have
lived that that life.
Thank you for that. We will go read uh
to Autumn and uh we'll look for those
experiences uh inside of that. Couple of
things I want to say. Uh first of all,
uh thank you so much for coming here and
and sharing your knowledge with us. Um
I'm certain that it's going to change
the way that people experience food and
drink. And if nothing else, we'll get
them chewing their food and pausing
between bites here and there to get
deeper into the experience of food. Uh
it's also nice uh in fact, it's very
refreshing to be able to talk about food
uh on this podcast uh not within the
context of just fueling the body and
health benefits. those are critically
important, but obviously food has
cultural aspects and it has taste
aspects and is one of the great sources
of pleasure in life. So, um you've
taught us how to get more pleasure from
from food and also its links to history
and human evolution. I mean, there's
there's so much there and we'll put
links to your books that explore uh
chemistry of food and and other other
aspects. I also just I want to thank you
because whether you intended to or not,
um you're a wonderful example of how
somebody uh follows their interests and
blends them um and how talking about
your interests with people um can help
you get opportunities to get paid to do
what you do. You know, people often
wonder, you know, how do I take my
varied interests and and put them into
something? And they'll try and like like
thread the needle from this to that. And
and I I'm not going to make up a story
here, but what I gathered was that just
by being you and being open-minded and
answering questions when people ask that
uh you've been able to uh braid together
your your interests in a way that's
allowed you to have a very unique career
that's very impactful. Your books have
been read by so many people and this
conversation will be heard by so many
people. So, thank you for that. It's a
reminder to just be oneself and things
generally work out and that you're
continuing to do the the great work that
you're doing. So once again, thanks for
taking the time to come down here and
talk to us. I'm going to try some new
foods. I think I'm going to do this tea
thing. I need some greenery in my place
and I'm I think I'm going to do that. So
I have questions for you about that. And
um yeah, thanks so much. I really
appreciate the work you're doing. Well,
you know, thank you very much, Andrew.
If I can just say a word um about how
um how rare it is to talk with people
who are broadly interested in sort of
the details of life but also the meaning
of life and you know what's what's
possible and what's not. Uh that um that
makes me especially happy to be here.
Um, and I was just going to say that,
um, I looked at this the book about food
as being, you know, a oneoff and then I
would write about gardening or, you
know, something else. Um, and I just got
captured by the subject. You know,
there's it's hard to think of something
that's more central to
um, you know, just sustaining human
life, but also getting pleasure from it.
And uh so I I went down the rabbit hole
and I'm still down there. Oh, we're
grateful you are. So, thank you and
thanks for putting the knowledge you
collect in that rabbit hole out into the
world. Thank you. Thank you for joining
me for today's discussion with Dr.
Harold McGee. To learn more about his
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