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Testing & Configuring Sony's Smallest Multiformat CRT- The Sony BVM D9H1U

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The video provides an in-depth look at the Sony BVM D9H1U, a compact multiformat CRT monitor released by Sony in 2003 as part of their commercial BVM series. This model is distinguished as the smallest member of its family, featuring a scaled-down chassis that necessitates its own unique set of accessory cards rather than those used by larger counterparts like the D24. Originally priced around $5,100, the monitor came with an internal power supply but was often sold with a specific aftermarket bezel that included a built-in widescreen overlay, permanently cropping the image to 16:9. The presenter highlights a custom wood-grain bezel from a third-party creator as a high-quality alternative that fits perfectly, contrasting it with the original factory option which offered less aesthetic flexibility. To operate this monitor effectively, users must rely on external accessories since the unit lacks built-in controls or buttons. The setup requires specific expansion cards for various input types, such as the popular BKM 129X for RGB and component video, which notably uses autoterminated coaxial cables that do not require external terminators. Control is achieved through a dedicated remote unit, such as the 11R model, which connects via a nine-pin VGA-style connector and features an SRAM memory card slot for firmware updates. Powering the device in modern setups often involves using a custom USB-C dongle capable of delivering the required 15 volts at 3 amps, ensuring the monitor boots up reliably without the original bulky power brick. Testing reveals that while the D9H1U supports resolutions up to 1080i and can display 480p content, it does so on a 450-line tube that is physically smaller than its larger siblings, resulting in slightly lower resolution density despite maintaining a sharp image. The monitor's versatility is demonstrated by configuring multiple input slots simultaneously to handle RGB, S-video, composite, and NTSC/PAL signals from various retro consoles like the 3Dio Interactive FC10. However, users should be aware of limitations regarding sync issues with certain older consoles like the Dreamcast or TurboGrafx-CD due to the lack of a built-in VCR mode, often requiring external sync correctors. Additionally, while the monitor offers extensive alignment and deflection adjustment options for calibration, it lacks some advanced features found in larger models, such as extensive pattern generation tools. Ultimately, the Sony BVM D9H1U is presented as a highly portable and versatile option for retro gaming enthusiasts who value its ability to switch between progressive and interlaced scanning modes, though it comes with significant setup complexity. The presenter advises potential buyers to check service bulletins on community wikis like consolemods.org, as these older units are prone to various failures that may require repairs or part replacements. While larger models like the D24 might be preferable for dedicated home theater setups due to their size and value retention, the D9's compact form factor makes it an attractive choice for those seeking a portable solution, provided they are prepared to invest in the necessary accessories and troubleshoot potential sync or hardware issues.
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All right, guys. We're going to go back and do another test session with another one of the D series BVMs that Sony made in the early 2000s. And uh we're going to jump into it. I'm going to try to show you a bunch of modes, all the accessories I have for it. Today, we're going to look at the Sony BVM D9, which is the 9in version of that multiformat CRT. It's part of the same family of that D24, but this is literally the smallest one of these they made. So, I'm going to flip over here and show you this CRT. We're going to look at it uh and talk about it quite a bit here before we actually test it. So, first off, this is obviously the back side of this. We've got uh the D9 H1U. And if we look at the serial number, it's 20484. So, this is approximately like the 484th one of these made by Sony. It was made in 2003 in February. And it does look like a miniature version of the back of a BVM, the D series that you saw where it's got like cards uh and power stuff. And I'm going to explain all this to you. Um first off, you'll notice that everything here is scaled down in size. So the very large cards obviously can't work in this monitor. So it has its own uh family of accessory cards. And we'll go through that in a minute. But just so you know, that's something that even though these are related uh monitors and do most of the same things, they are slightly different also. Okay. So, if you bought this thing in 2003 and uh you ordered it from Sony's commercial monitor division, you've paid about $5,100 and some odd dollars for it in US. And again, that isn't like the early 2000s dollars. And it would have just come with the BVM monitor. It most likely would have included the power pack that slides in here, which is this huge brick device that slides and snaps into this slot right here. And it just gives you a power supply with a um threeprong AC input into it. So, you would have gotten that. You would have gotten the monitor. You would have not gotten this aftermarket bezel, which is on here. you would have gotten this which is just probably the worst bezel Sony ever made on a monitor. Uh it has automatic built-in widescreen overlay. So you're getting like a 16x9 uh cut off always with this bezel. So you would have gotten this bezel. Um now other Sony's that were larger than this did have the same thing where they had this bezel but it was removable so you could just snap it in and out. It's not the case with this one. So, I was able to pick up this one recently. Uh, this is a 3D print aftermarket by Matt Ross aka Six Tanks. It's on eBay, and I just got in. I thought it looks pretty darn nice. I mean, I got this kind of old school wood grain bezel look with the white and or cream and brown um tan slash uh outer bezel. But it fits nice. It's like really really quality. It even has a Sony logo here. And that's basically what you would have gotten for 5,000 bucks would have been this. And you would of course needed something to put video uh signals in it. And these cards, there's a bunch of different cards available for this. First, this one is our main card we like to use. It gives you RGB and component video and uh sync support. And so that's the BKM 129X. It's a very popular card with these. and it says the name or you can find the name of these cards always at the bottom corner down here 129X. There's two styles of this. There's this one where it just says everything in black embossed letters. And then I've got this other variant of it that actually has colors for green, blue, and then red, and then sync. So, this is two versions of the same thing. Now, next to that, you've got the analog card that'll let you do composite video. So, it's got composite, composite, and then Svideo. And each of these have an out, so you can connect in series this to other um things. Now, this one, unlike its predecessor or its big brothers, uh it does not need terminators. So, if you see these signals on Sony products, this little wiggly line here, it means it's autoterminated. So, we do not need or want to add 75 ohm terminators on these monitors, which is different. And that's more like a PVM as opposed to the BVMs. So, just remember that if you ever do end up with one of these, you do not need to put 75 ohm terminators. So, you know, these cards were roughly $400 a piece. Uh maybe ones like this would have been more expensive. This is a completely dead video technology at this point. But this is a SDI 422 board 120D BKM 12D. And if we look here, it is again the SDI 422 color input adapter. Uh so there's again a video signal we don't use anymore. And this big fat one is for HD SDI. So I'm not going to get this is the 142 HD. I'm not going to get into too many details on this. If you want to look up more stuff on SDI video, you can. That's pretty much again a dead format. There's other accessories. You'll notice there's no way to really control anything on this particular model of monitor. There's no controls, no buttons, nothing. So, you needed to have a controller. And these are the same as the big ones, the big boy BVMs. So, you can use this, which is uh the more traditional one. It is the 10R and then it just uses a VGA style 9-pin connector right there. And you can run that cord from there to the back of the BVM in one of these slots, parallel remote, serial remote, um, control unit. So, you can you can sit here and you can turn this to the control unit. And I think you could plug it in here and that way you can control it with this 10R and this would have been another $400 accessory. This was probably more of like a a $600 accessory at the time. This is the 11R and this one is the one I'm going to use today to control this monitor. It does the same thing as the 10R. So, it has all the same buttons and stuff on there. It's just it's in a handy uh controller unit that you can use like from your hand. It even has a cool old school uh Sony memory card unit in it that has settings as look at that SRAMM 64 kilobytes. So, this is how you could do like firmware updates on these monitors back in the day with a card like this and you'd put it in here and then you can load that software onto these BVMs kind of that way. But this is the one. It's got the nine-pin connector up top and a mini den and then the other end of the mini den cable actually will plug in to the front side of the BB BVM here. And this is how we will control it. Like you just plug that in there. Uh if I can do it with one hand. Let's see. There we go. So that's it. Now we can control it from this controller when we introduce power to this BVM. And uh so that's pretty much everything. Now I will tell you that there is kind of a helpful guide here uh that tells you right like look over here. It says uh you got slot number one input option must be installed first. So you have to always use this left hand slot to at least have your first one in and then after that you use this one and then finally this one closest. So don't go like closest. If you go it's all your card here and you have nothing here there's a good chance you'll get no signal on the monitor at all. I mean I'm pretty sure that's what will happen. And uh let's see. So, for power today, I don't have that bulky power supply. I actually have a new solution from my friend Shank Shank Mods, and that is this really cool dumb dongle here. This is a really sweet little setup. So, what I've got is this dongle has a uh first off, it's got USBC here, and it plugs in to the XLR power input right here. Just like this. Okay. Clicks in. It's nice. Nice big dongle. And this is how we're going to power our BVM. But we can't just stick any USBC power supply in there because it won't Whoops. It won't have enough power. So, here's what I'm using with it. 65 watts. And the important stuff is that it has it puts out 15 volts at 3 amps. So, this thing wants 15 volts and 3 amps. and 65 watts to consistently run uh through this dongle. So, literally all we're going to do is we're going to plug in this dongle and this BVM should just kick the power right on. So, yeah, you hear it. You heard that click a little bit maybe. Yeah. See, we're right away we're going to kick this BVM on. Uh because we just introduced power to it. So, let's see it come on here. It should be powering up. Okay. All right, don't worry about that line. That's normal. I'm going to use the controller here and we're going to press one. Well, let's see. Channel one. Okay, I've got it switched over to channel one now just by pressing one on the input board. Now, let's see what that is. I'm pressing menu and I'm going to cycle through the menus here. Um, input configuration. Okay, so input one is set for component and slot one and it's going to have external sync. So, we'll have to use our controller over here to do internal sync. Uh, but that's the way the card is set right now. And what we can do then to get a signal in here is I've already got my PlayStation 2 Slim running and set up. So, we should just do is plug up this in here and blue and red and then sync is on green. So, we should finally hear it probably kick on. And now, there we go. I hear the signal running. Let's see uh what our signal looks like on the screen. Okay, good. Look at this. So yeah, obviously we have some screen settings stuff going on here. So let's see what's going on. Okay, so there we go. It was on 16 by9 mode on my which is another button you can press right here is a 169 button. So there we have it. We're on that input. Let's back out of this menu. And uh right now you can see down here, well you could see if I press menu. There we go. Channel one, 480 by 680 by 6, I'm sorry, 480 by 60i. So, right now we're in interlaced video. And I actually just changed the settings here. And once we go over into a race, we should be able to kick this thing up to 480p and maintain this awesome 4x3. Let me set this on the thing here. We should be able to maintain a 4x3 aspect ratio uh once we actually get into a race and then we'll have it kick up to high resolution mode. We'll go in here into a single game. And I forgot this in the last test mode. You actually have to start the race. Who cares? I mean, we'll take this crappy Prius and just get destroyed on this race. And Nurum Nurburgger. Now, see, there we go. It just clicked over here to 480p. So, that's what we're in now is 480p. And it just immediately switches resolutions like that. Cool thing about 480p is you will no longer hear that uh that high frequency noise from the flyback. Okay. So, since we're in 480p, what we can do is just go in here, and I mean, it's going to stay in 480p. But since I don't want to make any adjustments, I can always um just remove this cable right here and leave it how it is and it will keep going. But if I want to make any kind of screen changes, I need to plug it in and then I can do things like increase my contrast, increase my brightness up there. Cool. because it was a little dark. I also have like I mean this thing has not been calibrated so you've obviously got some stuff going on there with the deflection. So I can go in here and I can do an alignment um just a quick dirty alignment expansion like that. And then if we go over here to vertical size, we'll do the same thing. And we'll kind of do it like that. We might pull this down just a couple hairs. And yeah, horizontal phase. Let's back. Let's push this over there a little bit so that we're not seeing any side pieces. There we go. And there we go. 30. You can do more alignment stuff in the minute. I'll show you how to work through that. But there we go. So that's what we have. We have quick cool 480p. Now, if I just Let's see what happens if I unplug this. Everything should maintain the same, right? Okay, there we go. So, now you like this is what you would do with these monitors. You would just set them up and then you didn't have a controller to them and you'd let them go and uh run. And there we go. Let's watch a Prius get killed in this race here for a minute. I'm not even I'm not even remembering what all this stuff is down here. Fuel consumption, I'm guessing. Oh, baby, we're flying. How do we Why do we need fuel for a Prius? Push me. Push me. push me. Okay. Yeah, baby. We might not get last place, but we certainly aren't going to get first place in this Prius. So, um that's one of the great things about this little monitor is you get 480p, but you also get 720p and 1080i, but it is going to be up there u of course 16 by9 mode. So, you're going to lose uh screen size, and it also makes the resolution on the tube drop a little bit. Right now, you're looking at a 450 line tube. So, it's not nearly like the thousand line tubes of the BVM uh D24 or the D20. Those have a much higher line count than this. But since everything's compacted, uh it really looks great on the screen. But that's 480p actually. I mean, we're not doing too bad. We're in third place here with this Prius. Probably gonna not need to do a pit stop. So maybe I could run. Maybe there's a hack now. 15 seconds behind. I'm never catching those dudes. All right. So what we can do now is we're going to test some of these other things on this. Um but that is how like it could be set up to go. Now, if I wanted to do something else here real quickly, you saw um the other cards I had in the back were, let me move that. The other card I had back here that's already installed is this one 27W, which allows me to do all these other um inputs. So, what I can do just to test this is I can actually just take this green and plug it in here. And uh since the sync is on the green, I should just have like I should be able to switch over here and and at least get something to show up on the composite since that's the sync line. Now, it may not do it. Actually, you know what? Let's go in here. We can't do that because it's in 480p mode. So, we need to go back out first off. I forgot. Let's go in here and let's go back to the exit. And then let's go back to the main menu because we're going to need to get this back into 480i. And then uh and then we can do the test of the Oh, shoot. We can do the test of that other thing. So, let me reset this. Right. Okay. So, if we reset it, we're in 480i. Now, if I sit over here, I I think I have this scheduled like this. So, let's try this number four input input configuration. All right. NTS PAL slot two, which is the 127. Uh, and if again if you want to see that card, you can always go over here to your status and this will tell you. Look at this. This tells you how your channels are set up right now. Like so, um, there it is. Channel four is that all the other things are set to these. And then if we go down on that, look at this. We got slot number two, NTSC PAL, slot number one, component. It doesn't tell us like the actual card names there, but here's everything else. Another cool thing. Look at this. This has uh only 696 hours on the actual um monitor. So, this is super low hours on this thing. It's pretty awesome. But that's under the status. And so, I should be able to just take this right here and switch it over to that input. And something should show up on the screen, right? Ah, there we go. So yeah, we don't have our color, but we do have black and white. We're shifted down. There we go. So this is black and white mode, but that proves that this this input works. 480i by 60i. 480 x 60i again interlaced 480i video. So there you go. um looks really nice composite video and it works. So, I'm going to take a quick break here. We're going to um we're going to power this off and then here's what I want to do. We're going to power this thing all the way down. And then so to power it down, I'm actually just going to unplug the USB after turning it off. And what we will do is we'll disconnect the component video and we're gonna install another card here and then we'll try to use this one for RGB so they'll have a full load out and all you have to do is power the machine down and then you can literally just slide in these cards. So now we'll have another card to test RGB on. So, what we're going to do is we're going to switch over and I'm going to test some lower resolution videos than through the other BKM here through um RGB and then we'll test Svideo and composite video. Um you just want to make sure that clicks and then kind of screw them in. So, we'll test all that. Now, before we even test it, let's check to see that this card registers um on the monitor. So, I'm just going to power it on like that. Wait for it to kick in. And let's plug in our controller. Channel 4. No problem. Let's go down here to status. And there we go. So, it doesn't tell us the names of each card, but it does tell us that we have a component card in slot one, our NTSC PAL card in slot two, and then our component RGB card in slot three. So, right in this current configuration, we can go component um and RGB on one end of the monitor and we can actually hook in NTSC or PAL and we can do two composite inputs and one Svideo input however we want. So, this actually has the ability to have up to uh six no five inputs at once. All right. Well, we have the uh probably greatest testing console in the world, the 3Dio interactive multiplayer FC10. Now, what makes this one so special is that not only has it been refurbished and restored, but if we look back here, it has been modified for RGB out and RF has been removed. And then it has a little selection switch right there that doesn't change the channel selection. Oh, that cycles the system uh at real time between 480i and 240p with that little switch there. So, we can do 480i, 240p on command. And we have Svideo, composite video, and our GB to test through that. So, it's Sega 2 style hookups for that. And we're going to use this Mikechi dongle here along with an Extron cable for VGA to RGB to use RGB on our new card. And then we'll use the other signal uh on this card. So I think the first thing we want to try here is uh plugging up the console and seeing just how it starts up. And um we can turn the PVM or BVM back on. And what I'm going to use is I don't even have the manual for this, but I just have this like jewel case for Captain Quazar. Big gun, big muscles, big trouble. And uh this is again a goofy 3dio title that will only be on the 3Dio as far as I'm aware of. So let's load in the captain. Actually, first we'll leave it off so we can see that awesome splash screen uh from the console. And then I've got a power cable down here. And why don't we first off go for the cream of the crop, which is going to be RGB. So, I'm going to slip this in here. I just got to make sure I line it up correctly. We got There we go. And then we're going to install our controller, which is one of the famous things about the 3Dio only having the single controller port on the console. So, let's plug this in and turn the power on. Make sure it clicks on. All right. Now we should be able to just Well, maybe I'll move that to help a little bit more. Monitor's turned off. So, let's power it on. Switch over to an RGB channel. I can't remember which channel was RGB, but I want to say it was like channel five or something, but we can create a new channel or change one of the YPBPR channels if we need to. Let's try five right off the bat. No. Okay. Let's go and put configure RGB. Okay. Oh, because we are not using slot number one. We're using slot number three now. There we go. Okay. And then where is my sync button? That's not it. Let's go in here and let's turn sync on. Well, we got to turn slot three for sync. Okay, cool. Okay, so there we go. Look at that. We'll turn it into 16 by9. And we have what everybody loves to see, the storage manager device here. Let's see. What are we in here? We in I mean it looks to me like we're already in 240p but yep. So it's hard to see on this one but that's right now we're in interlaced. So you got real time interlaced and then over 240p. So we'll load this up. Let this kick on over. And there's our good old captain. You guys are really like missing out on this terrible music for this game because there's no audio support on these BBMs. This thing has like about the worst entrance song you've ever heard about Captain Quazar. Is it just loading? What are we doing here? There you go. Chief's office. Yeah. So, I mean, you can tell when you're watching it when it goes from 240p in this video mode to 480i when it's in person, but I don't think you're going to be able to see that on the camera at all. Like that resolution difference. And you can even see how the resolution is shifted horizontally for this console versus even the other consoles we were testing and uh RGB like the PlayStation. Well, actually that was component. So um that makes sense in the shift even more. So, we can go in here and kind of do the same thing. Alignment, and it'll redo all this stuff. Phase, baby. Let's go shift this to the right some. Let's expand that size. Get Captain Quazar. Looking good. I mean, I'm sure it's still widescreen a little bit, so we're not going to do too much. There we go. And channel five is set. Look at that guy getting stuck in his trousers. What a goofy game, dude. Again, we're not even playing the game. This is all just cut scene. Anyway, um, while it's running, I'm gonna go ahead and plug in I'm not even sure what happens when you plug in like multiple outputs on this thing. Hopefully, it doesn't blow up the 3Dio, but if we go and plug in I mean, we haven't tested SVideo or composite really that great yet. So, let's try that. I'm going to kick the light on. All right, let's see here. Now, I'm going to plug in the top Svideo plug, which these are sideways, so it's not like it goes in straight up top. Actually goes in sideways. Okay. Now, the cool thing is you don't have to have any kind of adapters for Svideo with this monitor. You just need to use a regular Svideo cable. All right. Now, if I plug this in, will the video stop or will it come out of both ports at the same time? I cannot remember. All right. Let's go back now and check channel one. I'm just going to press channel one on my controller and we're going to see if it shows anything. No sync. Okay, that means let's go to input configuration. Oh, that's that's why it's number one. The number four. Let's try channel four. No sync. Okay. Let's do input configuration. NTSC PAL. Okay. Yeah. Now, what we should do here is slot number two is right, but it's input number three because it's the bottom one. Aha. So, if we go like look at how how awesome is the 3Dio. Look at this bad boy. So, we've got Svideo right now. And if I press What channel is this? I can't even remember. Channel 4. If I press channel five, boom, baby. We're upgrading to S or RGB. And then finally, I can even take this sucker, plug in the composite video, and my goodness, this thing is a powerhouse. Did you know the RNG or the uh 3Dio was such a powerful machine? You could do all three at the same time, you think? You think you could do all three outputs in video mode? So, let's see. So, we've got channel four and then let's go and check out channel three, which is all whacked out. And we're going to go input configuration. No, we're going to go NTSC PAL. And then we're going to go input number one. There we go. So, let me change nothing on this except for we're going to get out of 16 by9. All right. composite. So I changed it. All right, channel three. So this is composite video 240p 480i. I mean, there's no way you can see the difference on there. Let me see if I can get it closer. But um what I've done is I've configured the remote control here to just go for uh Come on, baby. Come on, Captain. There we go. All right. So, I've switched it to just go and and output everything. Um so, again, like if we're looking here, this is NTSC PAL. This is input number one. So, this uh channel three is composite Channel four, NTSC. Uh, and this is input. This is Svideo. And then finally, we got the Mac Daddy of them all, RGB. Don't you like how it has an aggressive switch over there? And this like you can actually see defined scan lines in the picture here compared to like the it it's there. It's just muddier. You're definitely getting a resolution kick up, but how cool is that? Okay, let's do this. All right, just so you know, there's um not as much inside of this as there is the D24 or D20. The D24 and D20 actually have like a lot more inputs or I'm sorry, yeah, a lot more input configuration pages available whereas we saw this only has basically nine inputs that you can put together. There's only nine channels on this one. Um, so again, if we go to status, it only has nine channels that you can configure. But if you go into the BVMD20 and D24, I mean, it has like 90 channels that you can configure. And if you go into the high 90s, it has built those monitors have built-in uh patterns for calibration checks and stuff. So that's not in this monitor, but you do have those channels. And then again, this is how you check all the information under the status page two for your stuff. Now, if you do like we talked about the alignment menu here, which is going to be set um thankfully you can configure it per channel. So, you can do nine different types of uh adjustments there on that page. But if you want to do the main alignment, you go in here to system configuration and uh you go to page two, very bottom, maintenance, and it asks for a password again. One, one one. So four ones. Enter. And it gets you into this. And it's interesting because um these other things I can't I I didn't know you could look at this. So, you can actually change some settings on here uh based on like the colors for just the NTSC color card. This is literally just that color card there. It says 127W. But if we go out of that, we can go into the main system. This is how you check change color and white balance is under the video section. But if you want deflection, you can go in here and change deflection settings from the master set list. And there's three pages of well, this page you don't get to use. You don't get to do anything with those, but you have two pages of um deflection settings you can run through to set the master levels on the monitor. Now, unfortunately, in the maintenance mode here, there is no VCR mode built into this. So, this monitor will not sync properly on RGB with certain um consoles natively. Like when I showed you, if you want to see the footage from we had sync problems, we would still have sync problems with things like the Turbo Graphics and the Dreamcast. They don't like to sync to this monitor properly a lot of times through RGB. So, just be aware of that. You'll have to get some kind of sync stripper or sync corrector to actually get it to work on this particular one there because again there's no VCR mode. But uh I can't really think of much else to tell you about this BVM. Um so what I'm going to do is power it off. And the kind of last bit of information I can talk about would be something like these. These are 129 X um replacement cards. All of them. These were designed gosh a long time ago. 2020 by Martin Heinfelds. Our good old buddy Martin. 2020. Man, these cards. Golly, I can't believe it. So, there's got to be much better versions of this out there. But these cards, man, I can't believe it's almost been like seven years since these things have been out. Here's another one. So, that one's a VGA style. These can be these are open source, so they can be homemade. There are some people making aftermarket ones that actually look better than this cuz again, this one is super old. Let's see. Another 2020 probably. Yeah. So, there you go. OG's in the uh OGs in the chat will know everything about Martin and how many times he's saved us with these BVM replacement cards and really anybody else who's made these things. They're awesome. But he saved us with this one and the A series, which I'll cover someday. Uh but that's replacement cards. You can slip them in the same way the back of the BVM. Uh like this one. Uh really fun project. There's a lot of things that can be done with this monitor. My friend Shank has made like custom cards that slide in that have whole consoles on them full of games. So, you can do like a whole all-in-one package on this thing and not even need a console. You could do that if you're a real genius. I don't know how to do that stuff, but maybe one day Shank will hook me up with one of his cards to test. We'll see. Guys, I really love this monitor. I'm glad that uh I was able to add it to my collection here. I might do more stuff involving it in the future. Uh but for now, I think that's a dagon lot of info on this CRT. And uh should be able to help anybody who runs into this thing at least get started on it and understand what they can do with it. All right, everybody. I just want to say thank you again for watching today. I hope you enjoyed this rundown of the Sony BVM D9. Um just some final notes on this monitor. Uh you can often run into this much easier than you can the D24 or like the D20. Um you'll run into this D9 and the D14 probably more frequently because there were a lot more of those made and sold um in the early 2000s than the D24. And they've managed to stay um you know they're much easier to like set somewhere and forget about than the D24. D24s are pretty darn big and have um quite a lot of value in them. So, people are pretty easy it's pretty easy to see a big D24, but sometimes in uh commercial or um industrial environments where they might have ended up with one of these D9s. These can get hidden somewhere and never used. I mean, look at this one. I had under a thousand under 700 hours on it, which is pretty nuts. Um I don't know. There's probably only two other times I've seen ones that are uh BVMs that have this low of hours on them, but most of the time it is this D9 because look at it. I mean, you can't really get into it if you don't have a controller. Uh it's got that weird bezel and then it might not even have any proper input cards for you to even send in a video signal and it's super complicated on setup. Um I don't know. I mean, they're very cool. I think that if you want to grab one, um, you know, try to make yourself find a good deal on them. But I will also warn you that you should check out the wiki page on consolemods.org for this BVM. It has a ton and ton of failures in it where it would just fail and Sony had to send out ways to try to repair it and parts and things and service bulletins. This is a mile long list of things with this BVM particularly that would uh go bad. I don't think this is like a perfect one for even though it has all that if you have all the bells and whistles like I have, it's still kind of a pain um to use if you want to for some reason use Dreamcast or Turbo Graphics or possibly even Sega Saturn. I think that there might be an issue with that one. Um you may have to like convert everything over to component video. That way you can actually use it through component. Um, and uh, so like for the price here, you're going to be better off with going a route of like a 13-in PVM as opposed to this if you want it for retro gaming. Um, the one way I could see wanting this for for whatever reason is the fact that it goes from 240p up to 1080i and it's small and and very portable. But getting it will require you to have to probably follow up on some of those service bulletins eventually. Um, you'll also have to study the monitor and how to work it. And you'll have to be able to uh be prepared to invest in some uh accessories to use it cuz you're going to need them. I will show you one more thing on this. There is a way um to use this monitor through looping into other monitors or other controllers. If you don't have the BVM controller, you can loop it in parallel mode uh with a VGA cable like here. You should be able to just put it right here, tell it to go, and you may be able to control it from another BVM. So, if you have like multiple BVMs, there is a way to put them in parallel mode where you can have a master monitor control all the additional monitors because it should say like uh an out mode or something like there it is. So, like you go in here and you probably go out here if you wanted to connect a third, a fourth, a fifth, a sixth, a seventh BVM in series for whatever reason. So, you don't actually need the controller for every single uh one of your BVMs if you do that method. Well, guys, that's another long video. I'm about to head out to Retro World Expo. Um, I hope that a lot of you guys get a chance to come out there and hang out, but I don't know if this video will even come out before the expos expo happens. Thanks for watching. Please remember to hit the like button if you did like this. I always appreciate your feedback. If there's anything I forgot or got wrong about the Sony BVM D9 back here, please feel free to leave it in the comments. I tried to cover just about all the bases, but um it's again, it's all done from my head and from sitting here running my mouth with you for 40 minutes. Uh so anyway, if there's anything I forgot, please feel free to put it down there in comment in the comments. Let me know if you have one of these. Um and if you use it, if you like it, whatever. All right, guys. I'll see you next time with some more retro content.