Video summary
The video presentation by Elizabeth Lamb emphasizes that taking better photographs relies far more on understanding the science of light than on owning expensive camera gear. She argues against "gear acquisition syndrome," noting that whether using a high-end DSLR, an iPhone, or a point-and-shoot camera, the quality of an image is determined 90% by how one utilizes available light and composition, with equipment playing only a minor role. Lamb illustrates this point by comparing two photos taken simultaneously at the same location; one shot directly into harsh sunlight resulted in flat lighting and hard shadows, while simply turning the subject to face a white tent wall transformed that same sun into a massive, soft reflector, creating a flattering portrait without any additional equipment.
To achieve professional-looking results with simple tools, the speaker outlines four fundamental rules of light physics: exposure, the inverse square law, the law of reflection, and the law of reflectance. She explains that the size of the light source relative to the subject dictates whether light appears soft or hard, noting that while the sun is physically large, it acts as a tiny, harsh point source from Earth's perspective unless diffused or reflected. By moving closer to a subject or using reflective surfaces like white walls, photographers can soften light and eliminate unflattering shadows. Additionally, she details how the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection, which helps avoid red-eye and lens flare by adjusting flash angles or tilting glasses, while pure white surfaces reflect most light and pure black surfaces absorb it, allowing for precise control over lighting balance.
The final component of creating better images is composition, specifically utilizing psychological principles like the rule of thirds to guide the viewer's eye naturally. Lamb explains that human eyes typically scan an image starting from the top left and moving down, making the lower right corner a psychologically uncomfortable spot for primary subjects in standard photography. She advises photographers to position key elements along the left side of the frame or at the intersection points created by dividing the image into thirds, rather than centering everything or placing the subject in the bottom right. By combining these scientific and artistic techniques—such as turning off auto-flashes, being mindful of sun position during golden hour, and using simple white reflectors—anyone can significantly improve their photography regardless of their device or experience level.
Read the full video transcript
Thank you. Um, and good morning. Uh,
it's very early, so thank you all for
being here at uh, 10:00 a.m. after late
last night. Um, so yeah, this is taking
pictures with science. And I have
skipped through two slides already.
There we go. Taking better pictures with
science. Um,
so yeah, this is basically uh for people
who want to do better pictures with any
camera, whether that's a a DSLR or an
old film camera or whether that is just
your iPhone or even a uh a point andoot
like an Instax or something like that.
Uh so to start with, if I can There we
go. Uh here are two images that I shot
yesterday afternoon while I was here at
camp with my iPhone. Um and I ask, what
do you see is different? Do you see a
difference between these two images on
the right and the left?
Um on the left, uh we've got some very
hard shadows. We've got some very bright
highlights. Everything is in focus and
very flatl looking. On the right, we've
got much nicer, even more flattering
lighting. We've got um a background that
is uh out of focus so that you can uh
see the subject better. We've got
basically a the right is a more
traditional portrait type photo. The
left is more of a snapshot or the type
of photo that if you just whip your
camera out and point it at someone,
that's the photo you're going to get. So
we have two very different photos taken
at the same time at the same location
with the same settings at the same time
of day. So and they look extremely
different. So the question is why? Why
do they look so different? And the
answer to that is not your gear, it's
the light that you use. Uh photography
is the science of light essentially
mixed in with some art and some
creativity. And if you understand the
physics of light, then you are 90% of
the way there to taking better photos.
Um, a common thing when people start
getting into photography is they think
that they need the best camera gear,
they need the best lenses, they need the
best bodies, they need all of the gear.
Um, in the photography world, we call
that gas. Uh, gear acquisition syndrome.
Uh my husband's a musician and he
understands that because for musicians
it's the same thing. I need the new
gear. I need the new gear. This will all
make me better. But it's not necessary
to be better to have all of the gear.
What is important is understanding
light.
So your gear doesn't matter. Your
location doesn't matter. Light is 90% of
the way there. And then a little
understanding of composition will get
you the last 10% of the way. Uh the four
images that we have up here are all
taken with no modifiers. Uh they're all
taken on different cameras and at
different locations, but one thing that
they all have in common is good light
and attention to the composition. Uh the
one on the iPhone I took at Burning Man.
Um when I got my phone out, it initially
I got some terrible glare from the sun.
It kind of whited everything out. I just
took a step to one side and got a much
better picture. The photo above that I
did with a toy camera and I was
experimenting at a wedding workshop. Uh
we had overhead clouds and we ended up
getting a much nice evenly lit photo
just by making sure they were positioned
in the correct place for the light for
the one from London that was taken at
night and with a long exposure. The one
underneath that's a wedding photo that I
did in Las Vegas. Again, it was there
was no additional flashes or big soft
boxes or reflectors or anything else.
These were just about where I put the
subjects. No, no extra gear needed.
So, you don't need all that gear. You
just need to know a little bit about
light. Uh figured out to give you a
little bit of the usual obligatory about
me. Um my name is Elizabeth Lamb. My
pronouns are she, her. I am a
professional portrait photographer and
have been doing portrait photography for
25 years now. Uh which is still
astounding to me. Uh I am a scientist. I
work in forensic toxicology. Uh mostly
with
uh drugs of abuse is my specialist
subject. So if you ever have a question
like oh I take a lot of satalopram.
Should I take this LSD? Come ask me. I
can tell you about it. And the answer is
no. By the way, you should definitely
not mix those two.
Um, I do sticker design. I was
fascinated by the workshop yesterday
where they were doing stickers with a
Cricut and Canva because I do stickers
with Photoshop and Silhouette. It's so
similar. And I'm like, "Oh, this is my
jam." So, you can come talk to me about
sticker design, printing, and cutting.
I'm a former teacher. Um, I have taught
some photography workshops. I have also
was a pre-K teacher, so I'm used to
explaining things to people literally
like they're five. Um, so, but this is a
big bit different. So, excuse me if I'm
a little nervous. You guys are much
older and smarter than my 5-year-olds.
Um, and a little bit about me, I love
sharks. I love every camp that has a
blue high hanging from them. It's just
or in their tent. I think blue high is
fantastic. um both as a shark and as a
symbol. Uh I love cozy gaming. Come talk
to me about Animal Crossing or Stardew
Valley. And I love creating inclusive
spaces. Um in photography, there isn't a
lot of opportunity for women. Despite
women being uh buying more camera gear
than men these days, it's still kind of
a sausage fest out there for the
professionals. So, I am working right
now on creating a more inclusive
intersectional feminist space for
everybody, including a nanorimo style uh
photography event uh hopefully for next
spring. So, that's the obligatory about
me. Also, um if you didn't notice the
accent, I am American. I'm from New
Jersey, so I talk very fast. So, I will
be doing Q&A afterwards. If there's
anything you missed, please come talk to
me. I can try to go back and explain it
slower for you. Uh so light light is
physics. It is not magic. When I started
photography, I was in a professional
studio. Uh my uh journey was basically I
did photography for a year in high
school. I found it really fun. I saw a
photo studio that said now hiring and I
was like, "Oh, cool. I can be a
photographer. I'm 18 and I have all the
confidence of an 18-year-old." So, I
walked in with a portfolio and said,
"Hi, hire me." And they said, "Well,
actually, we're just looking for someone
to run the front desk,
but they still did give me a job and I
eventually worked from there." But it
was a very weird journey because
everything in a studio like that is
preset up for you. You have every light
modifier, every light type available to
you. And it feels like magic when you
first get into a massive studio with all
of these lights. And I didn't learn for
a long time how that all worked, why it
all worked. I just went in, did my
setup, and said, "Oo, magic. This is
this is amazing."
Took me a few years. But what I learned
is it is not magic. It is just science.
So there's four good rules of light in
photography. Uh there is the exposure on
your picture. There is the inverse
square law of light. There is the law of
reflection. And there's the law of
reflectance. And we're going to go over
all four of those today. And hopefully
if we have time, we'll do a little bit
of talking about composition, which is
bas which is just a little bit of math
on top of your physics.
So this is exposure or the exposure
triangle. I took my husband to his first
photo conference and he heard so much
about the exposure trial triangle he
called it the triangle of doom because
it was that intimidating.
Um, so you have three sides to your
triangle. You have the aperture and
f-stop, which is basically how much
light like volutrically hits the sensor.
Every camera, whether it is a little
Polaroid or an iPhone or a big DSLR uh
has a sensor in it and it is
photosensit, it is obviously
photosensitive. um how much light comes
into that through uh six blades that are
kind of interwoven to make a hexagon.
That is your aperture. Um the smaller
the number, the larger the opening is
and the more light you let in. The uh
larger the number, so your f18, your
f-22, then that means it's a much
smaller opening, so a lot less light is
coming in. There is a trade-off. you get
a lot of light in with the wide open
aperture, but you lose a lot of your
what we call uh depth of field or your
uh focal length. So, for example, with
the photo I took yesterday, that
beautiful blurry background was because
it had a very shallow depth of field. Uh
when you have everything in that
aperture wide open, it turns how much
stays in focus into a tiny little like
slice. As the aperture gets smaller, the
amount that stays in focus gets bigger.
So, that is your trade-off for how much
light you're letting in is that you get
uh less in focus the more light that you
let in through your aperture. Um, but we
can counteract that. We can counteract
that with your shutter speed. Your
shutter is how fast the light comes in
and is then cut off. So, it's kind of it
is a curtain. We literally call it a
rear curtain. Um, it just opens and
closes at different speeds from 1 second
to 125th of 200 1 250th of a second and
even faster. Um, again, the longer the
shutter is open, the more light comes
into the sensor and so you get to see
you get more light. Again, the trade-off
is in this case motion. If you have a
long exposure, which is like 30 seconds,
a second, a minute, you get blur, but
you get a lot of light. So, if you have
your a very narrow aperture like the
photo I had up earlier of um St. Paul's,
then you see that it's cris everything
is crystal clear except for that very
blurry water and it's at night and
that's because I needed to let in as
much light as possible because it's very
very dark down on the banks of the
tempames. But I also wanted to leave
that water all nice and kind of milky
looking. So needed a long shutter speed
and needed a small aperture. That these
things work together to create a good
exposure. The last part of the triangle
and the part I always forget about
because I'm from film initially is the
um ISO or ISO. Um that is a holdover
from the film days. It was about how
sensitive your film is. Um, a 100 is not
so sensitive, but it it's really good
for high-speed photography. Uh, all the
way up to 6400 or even higher. That's
really good for capturing motion, but
you get what's called grain, which is
kind of which is just kind of looks like
pixelation almost on your image. Um,
back in the film days, 400 was what most
people used. uh 200 was what we used in
a portrait studio because what was more
important was the quality of the image
not so much you know capturing the uh
motion or capturing things in all sorts
of light. So if you are you need uh a
lot of light but your aperture is
already as open as it can be for the
focus and your shutter speed is already
as slow as it can be without getting
camera shake or blur. you can just turn
up that ISO. The thing that you're going
to sacrifice there is the uh graininess
of your image. Um, and if you're
thinking, okay, this is all very
technical and it sounds like a thing for
a DSLR,
almost every camera that you pick up,
whether it's an iPhone or a uh point
andoot or even um some of the digital
instant cameras that you might see, they
have the ability to control shutter
speed and aperture. Um, my iPhone photo,
I was able to make those uh controls so
that I could take those photos that I
showed you. Um, you just have to know
where to look. Uh, and you can just go
online. There are tons of videos that'll
show you exactly how to find the slider
to control your uh, aperture and to
control the shutter speed. There's also
a lot of apps. If you just want to, you
know, have your Android device out there
to take pictures, you can go get an app,
um, that'll give you that kind of
control.
So,
this is where we're going to get a
little bit more technical. This is the
inverse square law of light. Uh
essentially the intensity falls off with
the square distance from the point of
the source. In other words, the larger
the light source is relative to your
subject,
the um softer or nicer the light is
going to be. You're going to get very
even lighting like we saw in the second
photo that I took yesterday. you're
going to get um you're not going to see
a lot of lines, wrinkles, under eye
bags, etc. Um the but the smaller the
light source is relative to the subject,
the harder it's going to be. You're
going to have big white highlights.
You're going to have dark black shadows
and there's going to be crisp lines uh
delineating those. Your skin doesn't
look so good in hard lighting like that
because if you have a spot on your face,
you're going to see the shadow that it
makes. It's going to stand out. So, in
portrait photography, we want to have
that nice soft light. And so, we want to
have a larger light source relative to
our subject. And the important thing to
remember about that is that it is
relative. The sun is a very large
object. However, relative to a tiny
human on Earth, it's a very tiny source
of light. And so, when you're lighting
someone with direct sunlight, you get
really hard light. Um, I'm going to go
back to that first slide to bring up
that those photos again.
The difference here
is the photo on the left was taken
indirect sunlight. I had my husband
stand in front of a white tent wall,
took a picture with my iPhone. The sun
said relative to him here on Earth, it's
a very tiny source of light. And so you
get those really harsh shadows. You get
the really bright white in the
background. All I did to change that
light on him was ask him to turn 180°.
So we went from the white wall of the
tent to that white wall now turns into a
massive reflector
and it reflects all of that sunlight
back onto him. That white wall is a huge
source of light. And so without any
modifiers, I have now taken the sun,
which is I said tiny relative to him,
and I've made it into a massive light
that can illuminate and make it nice
soft light. And soft light is flattering
for most people and most of what you're
going to want to use a light for when
you're taking a photo. So
that is the inverse square law.
Basically, if you have a light and it's
just you're getting some weird shadows,
you can just move it closer to the
person because as it gets closer, it is
relative getting relatively bigger to
the subject and you're getting a nicer
even spread of light. If you pull it
back, it's got you're going to get
harsher shadows.
So, the next bit and these kind of go
together and tie back to what I was just
talking about is the law of reflection
and the law of reflectance. The law of
reflection is that the angle of
incidence is equal to the angle of
reflection.
What this means is when you have a light
source and it comes in at the angle that
it hits at, it's the angle it's going to
go back out of. So diagram there, you
can see that put the sun at about 45°
angle. If it hits something that's at
90, it's coming back out at that 45°ree
angle.
Why this is important is this is one of
the most common causes of uh red red eye
and uh lens glare. If you've got your
camera and you're just using whatever
the on camera flashes, A, it's very
tiny. So, we're getting very hard light
out of it. And B, it's pointed directly
at that person. So, the light goes out
from the camera, hits the person, and
comes directly back to your lens. And
you get that reflection of the light.
And that's what camera or that's what uh
glasses glare is. It is just the
reflection of the light that you're
shining directly at the person coming
right back into the lens. And the way to
do take care of this, it's real simple.
You just if they're wearing glasses, you
can take their glasses and just tilt
them down like that. Now the light comes
in, hits the thing that's now bouncing
it down that way, not bouncing it back
into the into the the lens. If you have
a light that is off of your camera, you
can move the light up, changing the
angle so that it doesn't bounce back
into your lens. Um, and of course, you
can just turn the light off on your
camera. If you have a new generation
Android or iPhone, the cameras are
really good. You do not need the auto
flash. So, just use the available light
and you will lose your glasses glare.
you will lose your red light or red uh
eye. The law of reflectance is that 90%
of light is reflected by pure white. 90%
of light is absorbed by pure black. This
is important for the photo I did
yesterday. I needed a better light
source than the sun. I had a big white
wall. It's not pure white, but it's
pretty close. So, I knew that as much of
the light from the sun that I was was
going to hit it was going to bounce back
onto my subject. So, put him in front of
that nice big white wall. He's just
getting hit from the sun. Move him 180°.
Use that white wall to bounce the light
to reflect that light onto him. And I'm
getting this big light because it's
reflecting 90% of that light back, give
or take, cuz it's not a pure white wall.
Um, if you look at the slide, um, you'll
see there is a hot spot on his head from
where the sun was overhead. If I was
using any kind of modifier, I could just
take a black flag or a black piece of
cardboard or black piece of felt or
velvet and have someone hold it at just
the right angle and the that light would
be absorbed and not hit his forehead. So
I could just have someone holding that
black that well that that black line
there on the diagram and that would have
taken care of that hot spot on his head
because again if it's pure black it's
absorbing 90% of that light. So if you
need to light something better look for
something that's bright white. If you
need to get rid of some light to
subtract it from your image find
something that's as close to pure black
as possible.
So that is all of the science of light
that uh will get you like I said about
90% of the way there to taking a better
photo. The last bit that last 10% is
your image composition.
There are two very common ways to take a
better picture uh when you're composing
it. We have the golden rectangle which
I'm sure you've all seen before. It's
based on the golden ratio because it
occurs so frequently in nature uh
psychologically it's considered just
intrinsically pleasing and aesthetically
pleasing. So when we see something that
has the golden ratio we just feel good
about it. We just like it feels natural
or gravitate toward it makes us feel
good. It's a little harder to compose
for however than the rule of thirds. The
rule of thirds is take whatever
rectangle you've got um whether it's
your camera and you're shooting um
full-on in 9 by6 or on your phone or
whether you've got a point and shoot and
you're taking 2x3 ratio rectangle you
divide it in thirds horizontally divide
it in thirds vertically where the lines
intersect are your points of interest
and the eye this is um has a particular
path that it follows when it's looking
at an image. When it's looking at an
image, it goes from that top left.
That's where your eye goes first and
spends 40% of its time. Then it goes
down to the bottom left. Then it kind of
diagonally goes back up to the top
right. And then it goes down to the
bottom right. And this is important
because psychologically the thing that
we see first feels very comfortable. We
like it. So, if you've got a photo of
you, let's say, standing in front of a
landmark, you want to position yourself
in the left of that image and have your
face either in that top uh left
intersection or the bottom left
intersection cuz our eyes will see it
first. We think that's great. Um, where
you kind of want to avoid if you're just
taking a better photo for your wall or
for the holidays is that lower right uh
intersection. uh psychologically because
it's the last thing we see. Our eyes
gravitating toward it, but we feel
uncomfortable about it. There's
something that just is a little
unsettling and off-putting when the
thing we know we're supposed to focus on
is the thing that is kind of down in the
bottom corner here leading us out of the
picture. So, if if you're doing a piece
of art and you want everyone to feel a
little uneasy, you want to capture
something that's a little uncomfortable,
then that's excellent. Put them down in
the lower right. But for your holiday
pictures, you really want to stay on
that left side.
It will just again because of the nature
of how we look at things and because of
the psychology of things, it will just
make it a pleasing image.
Before I wrap up, I wanted to give you
four takeaways that you can do today to
make a better photo using all that stuff
that I just talked about. Uh, first
thing I cannot emphasize it enough is
turn off the auto flash on whatever
camera you're using. I have an Instax in
my tent and I found out you can turn the
auto flash off on that. So if you can
turn it off on a Polaroid, you can turn
it off on anything. Android, iPhone, uh,
I have a Sony point and shoot. Can turn
that off. You can turn it off on any
camera you have. And all of them are
really good at going for available light
and using the available light to get you
a pretty good exposure. So just turn
that off and you'll be doing so much
better. Be doing it yourself a huge
favor. The next is use the lines in your
viewfinder. Uh the rule of thirds is the
easiest of the composition techniques.
So, just use the lines that are in the
viewfinder of your camera. If you have
an old film camera or a newer DSLR, uh,
my point and shoot has those lines on
the back viewfinder screen. Um, my
iPhone when I pull it up, there is a
setting that just brings up those lines.
So, com take a second before you take
the shot and compose. Look at the lines.
Line the thing up according to the
intersections. Try to stay to the left
side of those lines and you will get a
much better composition that just
naturally feels better to people. Third
thing is be sun aware. Like I said, it
is a very hard light because it's
relatively small compared to us here on
Earth. So, what you want to do is when
you're taking a picture, where is the
sun and where will it be? Because maybe
you want to take this picture cuz you're
on vacation. You're by the pool and it's
really awesome. Can you the water is
going to be reflecting it that cement's
going to act as a reflector and light's
going to be bouncing everywhere and
you're not going to get necessarily the
best picture. Can you come down later at
the uh golden hour or the blue hour,
which is the hour right before sunset
and right after sunset when the light
isn't as harsh and you have a not a lot
of more even nice lighting. Think about
that. Think about where the sun is
positioned. As with the first two photos
I showed you, if you just turn them so
that their back is to the sun and
something else is reflecting on them,
their eyes will be open in the picture
for one thing, cuz they won't be
squinting into the sun and you'll lose
all of those horrible underline bags and
emphasis on lines on your face. And
finally, get a piece of cheap white
cardboard that you or a fold up white
reflector or anything small and white
that you can take with you. If you are
one of those people that want to take
pictures of your food and everything
that you do, just have a little pop-up
white reflector. Instant better photos
for whatever you're take for your
Instagram or whatever you're using. So,
those are your four takeaways that you
can do this weekend to get take some
better photos. So that is my
presentation. Um the slides are
available online. You I also have a fake
link a fake link tree that you can scan
the QR code to go to so that you can
follow me on Facebook, Insta, uh Blue
Sky, all of those, download the slides,
and it'll have a link to the video
presentation when the video is up and
revealable. Uh, so thank you guys again
so much for showing up at 10:00 a.m.
after most of us are up till 2 or 3:00
a.m. And um, if you have any questions,
I'll be in the Q&A tent outside. So,
thank you so much.