Video summary
The video presents an in-depth first impressions review of McCall's new summer sewing pattern collection, offering detailed feedback on seven distinct designs ranging from dresses to tops and skirts. Each pattern is analyzed for its specific features, such as the Misses Ruched Halter Dress which offers multiple lengths but faces criticism regarding bodice length and dated color-blocking, while the Laura Ashley-inspired option is noted for its empire waist and ruffles though the stiff tie bow and angled back may limit versatility. The collection also includes a button-front top with lace trim that requires careful fabric selection to avoid transparency, a tie-front cutout dress familiar to previous releases, a detachable tiered skirt dress requiring boning support, a professional yet casual shirt with a wrap skirt, and various other styles that emphasize specific construction needs like invisible zippers and separating zippers for adjustable lengths.
Throughout the review, significant attention is paid to fabric suggestions and ease allowances tailored to each garment's unique structure. For instance, mid-weight linens are recommended for structured dresses, while stretch fabrics are suggested for close-fitting items to ensure comfort. The presenter highlights that certain designs, like the shirt with a wrap skirt, require light-to-midweight wovens with minimal drape and may need underlayers due to large armholes, whereas other pieces demand mid-weight to mid-drape materials to allow ruffles to move naturally. Specific ease measurements are provided for many items, such as 1.5 inches at the bust for some dresses and up to 2.5 inches at the hip for others, ensuring sewers understand the fit expectations before cutting their fabric.
Despite the summery theme of the collection, the reviewer notes that these versatile designs can easily be adapted for fall projects without issue, adding value to the available sewing options. The speaker expresses overall satisfaction with the patterns, believing they will sell well and meet the needs of home sewists looking for new projects. While pointing out minor drawbacks like accessibility issues with back button closures or the expensive nature of certain lace trims, the enthusiasm for the collection remains high, suggesting that the variety in styles—from mini to maxi lengths and from casual shirts to formal dresses—makes this a strong addition to any pattern library.
In conclusion, the video wraps up by inviting viewers to share their favorite patterns from the lineup or discuss any disagreements with the reviewer's opinions in the comments section. The presenter encourages the audience to consider adding these designs to their wish lists and ends with a call to subscribe for future content that will include fabric reviews and practical sewing tips. Ultimately, the review positions McCall's new summer collection as a robust and adaptable set of patterns that offer both immediate seasonal projects and long-term versatility for sewers of all skill levels.
Read the full video transcript
Hi you guys, and welcome back to the
channel. A brand new McCall's sewing
pattern collection has arrived, and you
know what that means, it's time for
another first impression review. Today
we're going to go through every one of
the patterns in the new summer
collection. I will share what I love,
maybe what I don't love, some things
that beginners should consider, and any
other thoughts that come to mind as I'm
looking at these patterns for the very
first time. As always, these are my very
first impressions of these patterns.
I've never looked at them before.
Sometimes some of them end up growing on
me
after my kind of initial look at them.
Sometimes I can nail a community
favorite right off the bat. Either way,
feel free to agree or disagree with me
in the comment section below. So, grab
your favorite beverage. It's iced coffee
for me. Get comfortable and let's see
what McCall's has in store for us for
summer. All right, we're going to be
starting off with this very very likable
dress pattern. It is a misses ruched
halter dress in two lengths. We have
sizes 6 to 16 and then 16 to 26. That is
a lot of sizes, you guys. That's 12
sizes. I think it's only missing 4 and
28. So, that's about as
as size inclusive as McCall's is ever
going to get in one pattern. So, good to
see that. Fit and flare halter dress,
close fitting through the bust, features
a square neckline with pleated bust
overlay, halter straps that fasten with
two buttons at the back of the neck.
Uh, not my favorite. The bodice is
secured with an invisible back zipper
and is joined to a gathered skirt with
hem bands for added movement and
structure. Side seam pockets. Um, view A
ha- view A has a skirt 5 in above
mid-knee.
That feels short.
Um, views B and B views B and C are
lower calf length, and view C has a
contrast. They used in this one here a
medium-weight linen woven in navy blue
stripes, very classic.
All right, let's take a look at this.
I mean, it couldn't be more adorable.
Obviously, it's a little bit
vintage-inspired.
Halternecks have started like creeping
back into our lives for the last, I
don't know, year or so. This is an
adorable take on one. What a really
standout dress. It's modest, it's cute,
it looks expensive and well-made.
So, I love to see that. The blue stripe
is really just the perfect thing to make
this sample out of for sure. So, this is
the shorter version. They did a little
play on the stripes here.
And they did vertical on the skirt and
horizontal on the addition. 5 in above
mid-knee. I guess it's not that short.
Like I'm I'm measuring on myself.
Um
it would certainly change the look of it
a lot.
I don't know, 5 in above mid-knee, I
might want to just lengthen this part
and leave this off. It feels like it
would be really choppy with such short
amount of body space to work with.
Um then this is the one that contrasts.
Kind of giving that looks a little like
'90s, early 2000s to me. Not my favorite
to block it like that. Color blocking,
yes. Print blocking, absolutely. But
this solid print solid, I don't know,
that feels a little dated.
Okay, and I'll talk about the buttons in
the back. The reason why I don't like
this is because it Some people will not
be able to wear this simply because they
don't have the dexterity in their
fingers to loop those two buttons in the
back.
Other options would be to create like in
a little extender and put some elastic
in it so you can just pull it over your
head, create ties. Obviously, that would
have a bow on it
and not be as clean as this. So, you'd
have to make some modifications if you
just have a hard time, you know,
clasping things behind your neck. I
totally get it. Um
the construction could be a little bit
better on this invisible zipper if I'm
being honest. Not super invisible, but
you can also see and we always see this.
If you've been watching these videos for
a while, you know, McCall's
regularly has the bodices are too long.
Um so, even though this is sitting at
her natural waist where it should, you
can tell it's trying to push up
um to go up on her hips a little bit
more and that's what's creating this
length here. It's just smooshing the
bodice down.
Um but that's an easy remedy and
honestly, you should be checking the
length of your bodices anyways. I always
have to make adjustments for that
because I'm short-waisted.
Um but
even if you're not, you should be double
double-checking those. Okay, so they're
recommending lightweight woven fabrics
like broadcloth, lightweight denim,
linen, poplin, and satin. All great
options for summer. That's something to
remember when you're looking at these
suggested fabrics is they're going to
suggest fabrics that are ideal for the
season that the pattern was released in.
So, these are great for summer, but you
can also make it in the fall, in the
winter, in the spring um by choosing
different types of fabrics.
Still maintaining the same weight and
drape as the suggested fabrics. So, some
things that you might consider like in
the fall and winter would be like
lightweight wools.
That would be an interesting choice for
this. Um
but you could choose Let me try and
think.
Um
lightweight denim, linen, poplin, satin.
Wow, that really is a lot of the
options.
Um canvas would be too stiff. Anything
like challis, rayon, that would be too
lightweight. You could probably pull it
off, but it would be a completely
different look. Like the skirt would
fall in on you a whole lot more. You
want to try and find something based on
these that are
mid-weightish
um with some structure to them
regardless of what season it is.
And then we shouldn't have too much ease
in this one. It looks like the bust has
1 and 1/2 inches of ease and the waist
has 1 inch. That makes perfect sense to
me.
Um so if you're in between sizes, you
know, keep that ease in mind. You will
be adding or removing ease depending on
whether you size up or down.
All right, next up also Biscuit joined
us. I told you she was She just can't
help herself. She'll be here. Um this is
a halter dress, another one in two
lengths. This is a Laura Ashley
reproduction, I guess. Uh 8 to 16 and 18
to 26 on the size range. This dress in
either maxi or below the knee length
features a fitted halter bodice with an
empire waistline seam, back zipper,
flared angled bodice back.
Flared angled bodice back, okay.
And a flared skirt with ruffles. Maxi
dress includes two ruffles and can be
made in one or two coordinating fabrics.
The shorter dress has one ruffle along
with lace trim and button accents. They
use an embroidered cotton fabric in
cream. Excuse me, I can't see the
screen.
Um a cream embroidered cotton.
So it does look like we have a two
different bodices as well. One has this
like button and lace detail. And the
other one is just plain.
Um but it they both probably have these
bust darts.
Um there's tie in the back, so that kind
of
will show you what it would look like
based on what I was talking about
before. Gosh, she looks young, guys.
She looks like 14, which is fine, but I
think McCall's is I don't know. We can
Older people can make the these dresses,
right? My gosh. I I like this dress. I'm
not 14. Is that weird?
>> [laughter]
>> Um and then we have the ruffle and again
the lace trim on the bottom. Very, very
Laura Ashley. And then the same thing
with this print mixing.
Super cute. Let's see.
There she is again.
That one's in a solid. There's a
coordinating prints. All right. And then
we've got this is the angled back they
were talking about.
Yes, it would prevent you from wearing a
traditional
bra. Um but you got to admit that really
is pretty. This is like a a lap zipper
or did I hear it called a railroad
zipper recently? Has anyone heard of
that?
Um and then you've got the tie. I don't
love this fabric in the tie. It's really
stiff.
Um I don't know if there's like a seam
up here somewhere where you could change
it out to something a little bit more
lacier so it's not so I don't know, big
and hard-looking.
Um but the fabric is really great for
the rest of the dress. So
just that bow.
Okay. So,
let's see here. Broadcloth, challis,
cottons, crinkle gauze, double
georgette, eyelet, lawn, lightweight
poplin, like sorry, lightweight linens
and poplin. That pretty much covers all
of those light to midweight um
mid drape to
I mean you do need some drape for the
ruffles. So like the
um double georgette will have a lot of
drape to it. Satin challis will have a
lot of drape to it. Um the rest of these
are kind of structured for like relative
to what they are. Um but you'll still be
able to get the movement and be able to
create the gathers which is the most
important thing for this dress. I This
is one of the better Laura Ashleys I've
seen in a minute. So that's good.
All you need for this one is a zipper
and then if you're making the buttoned
bodice,
um,
3 3/8 inch wide buttons, 5 yards of 3/4
inch single edge scallop lace trim.
That's going to get expensive.
Uh, but it is really cute. I guess I
wish that if I'm going to spend that
much money on all that lace, I want to
be able to see it more. So, maybe if
this were a contrast color, possibly
that could be cute.
>> [laughter]
>> Biscuit has opinions about that.
Um,
all right, and then the ease on this
one, they're only giving us the bust
because it's such a like empire waist
thing happening. The natural waist is
going to have a lot of ease to it, so
does the hip.
Um, but the natural the bust line has 1
inch of ease.
So, that looks good. You can always, you
know, we were talking about the back of
this, you can always straighten this out
a little bit like this if you want to be
able to, you know, wear a traditional
bra with it or you can add cups to the
front cuz I'm 99% sure it's lined or
something. Was there
a lining or an underlining? Let's see.
Um, lining. 5/8 of a yard. So, yeah, the
bodice is lined. So, you could add a cup
there. It wouldn't necessarily give you
support, but it would give you coverage.
Okay, now, what's next?
We have, oh, cute, McCall's. My gosh.
Okay.
Um, misses and women's button front top,
10 to 18 on the misses and 20 to 28 on
the women's. I say this every time
because it's important to know that a 20
misses is not the same thing as a 20
women's. You will have like, uh, there
will have been a full bust adjustment
done on the women's sizes. If this were
like a bottom or a pant, a full seat
adjustment's probably included. So, it's
not a it's not more size inclusive
in that you still only have 10 sizes.
It's just the middle of the misses and
the middle of the women's. So, if you're
an in-betweeny like I am, I'm like a 20
22 in misses,
these don't really work for me.
Um but,
I don't know. I just wish that they
created misses and then a whole separate
number for women's.
Like we're already halfway there. Just,
you know what I mean? I don't know. Or
like include four options for this. You
know what I'm saying?
Anyways, um close-fitting lined top
features a sweetheart neckline with
narrow shoulder straps, button and loop
front closure, split hem for a
flattering silhouette, back tie belt,
okay, allows for an adjustable fit. View
A has lace trim along the neckline,
straps and hem. View B has plain finish.
They used for the misses a stretch linen
and in the women's version a floral
printed medium-weight linen. Wow, they
really are leaned into the linen this
collection.
Okay, so we've got the princess seams.
We've got the pearl buttons with the
loops. That is
obviously a trend. We've seen that twice
now. Um and it is a really really sweet
detail. It does make it
see-through. Like there's not going to
be like a
Oh, what's it called? I can't remember.
A placket underneath. That's not the
right word.
Whatever. It's not going to have that
underneath, so you will be able to see.
I think under here they might have put
another shirt um to help with that, but
this little foldover detail, the lace
trim inside, so so so cute. Um the
length of it, that petticoat length, so
adorable. Let's see the backs.
The fit on both of them look really
good, which I'm happy to see.
I mean, so cute and chic, right? She's
just stepped stepped off the
train in the 1940s.
Okay, here's the back. Okay, great.
Yeah, it looks really good. This is
very subtle shaping. I'm not even sure
you would necessarily need that.
Hers looks really good, too.
Yeah.
Yeah, these both look really really
good. Awesome. Okay.
All right. So, we are looking at cotton
blends, cotton sateen, crepe,
lightweight denim, linen, silk shantung.
I think this, more so than any of the
other patterns we've looked at, has the
most variety in fabric. You could go
midweight to heavyweight,
um depending on the season.
But, you do need some structure to it.
Um it can have a little bit of drape,
like the crepe is going to have some
like fluid drape. Um but, you know,
obviously the more structured it is,
the more snatched it'll be. In my
opinion, something like a cotton sateen
or a stretch cotton blend, um stretch
denim would be
best because you would really be able to
get it,
you know, close-fitting.
Um the finished garment measurements,
the bust is
1 and 1/2 inches, and the waist is 2
inches. So, you see there's not a lot of
wiggle room there with that. that fabric
that stretches will really help it be
like a little bit more wearable and
comfortable. But, you can make this out
of a lot of different things. And also,
I want to point out, too, that on the
front, this is all one, right? It's not
interrupted by a seam right here, which
is kind of unique. So, you could play
into stripes or directional fabrics, or
even color blocking would be really
impressive with this because this is all
one piece. Now, that obviously wouldn't
happen in the back, but on the front it
would be pretty striking.
>> [snorts]
>> Okay.
Early start, but good start.
Misses tie front cutout dress. All
right, I kind of thought we'd moved away
from this. This feels like
we just did this a few years ago. I
don't know a lot of you Some of you out
there are really good at saying, "Oh,
no, no, no. That was this other pattern
and they're just re-releasing it under
this new number." Visually, my brain
does not work that way. I have a
terrible memory. I won't remember any of
these
once I finish filming and editing this
video.
Um but, this does feel familiar. Maybe
cuz I have one like it.
Uh the sizes on this one are 8 to 18 and
then 16 to 26. Close-fitting dress
featuring a bodice with tie detail and
front cutout supported by narrow
shoulder straps. Finished with an
invisible back zipper, hook and eye
closure.
Choose from three lengths and
variations. A is mini, B is lower calf,
and C is floor.
And they didn't even mention this, but
the longer ones are going to have this
little swoopy detail on the I don't know
outer calf.
They use a stretch cotton sateen in a
floral print.
So,
yeah, this feels
familiar and then they just changed out
the skirt because I do not remember
seeing a skirt with this detail. We've
been seeing a lot where this part is
happening up here.
Equally cute. This is getting more of a
It's not a fishtail mermaid. I don't
know what this style of dress is called,
but it does make it look fancy.
Um this one's really cute. You could
definitely do like this in a denim and
have it be for like a more of a casual
event. And then you can do this one in a
a
of different fabrics and prints and
sheens and all the things and you could
go to like an event in this if you
wanted to. Um not saying I would
necessarily go to Target in this, but um
even in the most casual fabric, probably
not to Target, but there is a lot of
variety in where you can wear each of
these
versions. All right.
Oh.
The delivery man is here. Wait, wait,
wait. No, no, no.
>> [laughter]
>> All right. Um the fit on her is really
good.
Right? All of her goods are locked and
loaded in there. I don't know that she
has a lot of goods to have to worry
about, but it is really pretty
sweetheart design. You can see the
little tie here. Can you wait?
Um and then the back
for all that I say about McCall's
bodices being so long, this one's
pretty perfect. Pretty, pretty perfect.
All right. And then, here, I'm going to
let you down.
Cotton sateen, jacquard, linen, satin.
Yeah, you can see the satin would be
kind of more holiday.
Um jacquard kind of has a little bit
more of that special occasion type vibe
to it.
Um what is the ease on this? On the hip
especially, we have
2 and 1/2 inches, the waist has 1 and
1/2, and the bust has
two.
But you can probably tie that tighter if
you wanted. So, given that the ease
requirements are so or the ease in the
pattern is so small,
having something like a stretch denim,
stretch satin, stretch linen, stretch
whatever you can find would allow you to
like sit more comfortably, bend over,
you know, do all of those kinds of
things at the closest fitting part of
this.
But other than that, I mean
the fabric might be a little bit
expensive. Some of these are getting up
to the three yard
requirement.
Um, but you only need a
an invisible zipper. So, the notions
aren't the notions list isn't huge. So,
>> [clears throat]
>> um, that part of it would maybe outweigh
what you would spend on fabric. That's
my sewing math.
All right, we've got a misses and miss
petite dress with detachable tiered
skirt. Okay, do you want to hear a funny
story?
From the time that I was like, I don't
know, middle school, high school, I
would always tell myself, "When I get
married, I'm going to wear a wedding
dress to the ceremony that has like this
big skirt. And then for the party, I'm
going to remove the skirt and have like
a party dress." And at that time, in the
1900s, that was like revolutionary.
People that I told about that were like,
"Oh my god, that's the best idea." And
now, not only is that a very common
thing in bridal, but now here we are and
like a sewing pattern, we have it. So, I
was just such a forward thinker. Who
knew? Who knew?
>> [snorts]
>> Okay, so sizes 6 to 16 and then 16 to
26. So, the misses petite portion of
this only means that the pattern is
going to have horizontal lines marking
bust, waist, and hip
to make it easier for you to shorten the
lengths of things. It's not necessarily
going to be smaller sizes. All of these
are still misses sizes, but it will
allow you to shorten things so that they
are they fit your body better.
Okay, drop waist dress and line drop
waist dress line and close fitting
through bodice has princess seams,
narrow straps, invisible back zipper
with hook and eye, structured with
boning for support. Okay. Tiered skirt
sections attached to the lining with
separating zippers to create a mini,
below mid-calf, or floor length looks.
They zip apart. Okay, that's one way to
get it done. They used a brocade for
this.
Um
Okay, well, and here she is in all three
lengths. I mean, that is a really pretty
brocade fabric. So, this is what
everyone has and then somewhere under
here this zips on
and then under here somewhere this zips
on.
That is so interesting. What if you just
made it in this version and then
depending on where you're going, you
just add a layer if you want.
That's pretty cool.
That's pretty cool. Here we go. Walking,
walking, walking.
Um the fit on her again looks pretty
good. It is a drop waist. Okay, so it is
going to sit much lower on the waist.
Probably a lot closer to your high hip
than you would realize.
Um [snorts] but it has this really
pretty princess seaming and then the
gathers in the skirt.
And then this looks like a blind hem
or something. That's pretty
cute.
Oh, yeah, and here's how it works. So,
there's a lining underneath.
And then you zip the lining.
Huh.
Huh, huh, huh, huh. Okay.
Yeah, that would be one way to do it.
That would be one way to do it. Okay.
Here's the back. You do have the thinner
straps. Again, princess seams here. A
lapped zipper? No, invisible zipper
here.
And then all your tiers. How
interesting.
I'm curious to know if you guys feel
like this is super practical. I mean, I
kind of do, but then again, I wonder
like
I like the mini version the best. I
mean, it's still wearable to me. Like,
am I really going to be zipping on all
the other layers?
Or what if it were like a date and
night? What if you like wore your little
mini dress with a jacket during the day
and then at night time you start zipping
on your skirt I don't know. The whole
idea of that is like in terms of like
how practical it is for regular
lifestyles, it's really kind of getting
my brain going. It's so interesting.
Yeah.
Okay, so brocade, jacquard, satin,
sateen, shantung are what they're
recommending. Those are all pretty
uh
special occasion type fabrics. You don't
have to use those, but these are all
kind of like
mid to heavy No, midweight, but lots of
structure. Uh mostly probably for that
bodice with the boning.
You could go a little bit less weight
and less structure. Like if you went
down to a denim or a linen, you could
probably do that too. Like a midweight
when midweight denim, midweight linen.
Um
But yeah, there's it doesn't have to be
fancy.
All right. And then you'll need your
boning, your invisible zipper,
and then the separating zippers. Those
can be kind of expensive.
And then fit-wise, we've got 1 in of
ease in the bust. We've got 1 and 1/2 in
the waist and
Oh, the hip because of the lining.
Is that what's happening? So that's why
we have an actual hip measurement here
of 33 4 2 and 1/2 in. Which
Which I guess you could
No. No, you'd have to use that lining as
is. So, yeah, that is somewhat limiting,
I guess, cuz it looks like Oh, fit and
flare, but really underneath it's
fitted. Which also, I've done this
before.
If you just use the
Oh gosh, if you just use the bodice and
then the fitted lining piece, but you
make it all out of the same self fabric,
then you technically have a fourth
version
where it's just fitted all the way down.
You know what I mean? Like if you didn't
use it as a lining, you use it as an
actual pattern piece, then you'd have
another another option with this dress
as well.
Does that make sense?
Okay, and we have this
misses shirt with belt and wrap skirt in
two lengths.
Shirt with belt and wrap skirt, so three
pieces.
6 to 16, 16 to 26. Very loose-fitting
shirt features a classic collar with
collar band, front button closure,
cargo-style chest pockets, low armholes,
short sleeves with turn-back cuffs and
epaulets.
Skirt includes matching self belt with
D-rings and offered in two lengths.
Asymmetrical wrap effect. Skirt sits at
the natural waist with a center back
zipper and hook and bar in two
length options. They used a cotton twill
for this.
Um okay, it's an interesting take on
like a suit kind of.
Uh it's giving more business than it is
casual, but definitely
casual with the pockets and the sleeves
and everything else. So,
um
yeah, you would have to have mean I
wouldn't wear it to court or anything. I
mean, I guess you could. I don't know.
This feels kind of like a little bit
more professional than maybe
I don't know. It's both. It's
professional, but also not. I like that
about it.
Um let's see what kind of pictures we
get. So, the armholes are humongous.
They go down past your your line. So,
you're probably going to have to wear
something under this so that you can't
see inside the sleeve cuz they're just
so big.
Um
then you have the belt that you wear on
top of everything. I don't know, this
kind of hides the
wrap
portion of the skirt.
I wonder if they'll give us any pictures
of her. Okay, just skirt. I'd love to
see that.
We have some top stitching details, some
like really pretty origami type pleating
to create that like a little bit of a
tulip effect.
And then she's got her little kitten
heel, little bag.
Yeah. Oh, here's the back. Oh, they
tucked that belt into the back.
And then we've got I don't know what
this is about.
Why do we have
Oh, I guess it's like princess seams
back here. Okay.
Yeah, they're not going to show I wanted
to see what the
shirt looks like
completely undone. I guess technically
you could have
separates, right? You could wear this
with shorts or something.
And then you have the skirt so you can
wear it separately as well.
I just don't know what the shirt looks
like without the belt. You know what I'm
saying?
So, the back of the envelope is the
suggested fabrics are going to be cotton
sateen, lightweight denim, linen blends,
twill.
That's pretty all encompassing. You're
looking for light to midweight wovens
with not a ton of drape at all,
actually. Um
you could have something with a little
bit more drape, like if it were like a
rayon linen blend, that would have more
drape to it. Um but linen would be the
the main the main gig.
And then the finished garment
measurements are going to be on like not
on here. I get with the shirt they don't
really matter. The skirt waistband would
have been helpful. Actually, the skirt
hip too would have been helpful,
but
c'est la vie. All right, so next up we
have a Mrs. and women's one shoulder top
and skirt in two lengths. We are looking
at sizes 10 to 20 and 22 to 32.
So, that is going to be like the higher
end of the Mrs. and the higher end of
the women's. Close-fitting aligned
one shoulder top featuring front
princess seams, back waist start,
separating side seam zipper, top
stitching. Skirt sits at natural waist
with a pointed yoke, full gathered
silhouette, side seam pockets, invisible
center back zipper, and top stitching.
They made theirs out of linen, red and
gray. All right, let's take a closer
look. So, having a lined garment in a
McCall's pattern is always a win. You
get those really beautiful finishing
details for not quite as much money as
like a Vogue pattern would be.
So, I love to see that. Plus, like the
finish of this is going to be a lot more
clean and beautiful than if you did a
binding or even a facing. Um we do have
the princess seams, which it looks like
they top stitched this. Possibly, they
did this one, too. I just can't really
tell.
Um fit-wise of the top, I Asymmetrical
tops are not my favorite. I've I've said
that before.
I just don't love them on myself, and
more often than not, I see fit issues
with them a lot. You can really tell on
the women's how this needs to go up
here. This is very low. This is like
boob.
>> [laughter]
>> This is side boob right here. So, we
need this to not be so swoopy, you know?
This panel here can definitely be
flattened out and raise the side seam a
lot. Not so obvious on hers. Maybe it's
just she's not as angled toward us, or
you know, it's the Mrs. version, so it
could just fit totally different. On
hers, I see a lot of gapping here.
That is a super easy fix as well. Plus,
it's kind of personalized to your cup
size, so that would be something that we
would be looking at fixing with our
muslins anyways.
Um the skirt, I've talked about this um
design before in one of the other summer
collections. This pointed yoke thing is
been it's trending. It's everyone's
doing it. They've been doing it um
pretty steadily for a couple of years,
but it feels like this year more than
ever, it's just like all I see over and
over and over again. So,
it's a little bit like of a western vibe
paired with the kind of chic
asymmetrical top. You know, they go
together cuz the fabrics match, but
you know, I'm kind of like, "Where, you
know, I don't know." They're kind of
saying two different things. I would
wear them more so as separates myself.
Um but as a whole cohesive look, the way
it kind of looks like a dress,
that that's kind of cute.
Um okay, there's that picture again.
There's hers again.
Same thing here. I That might even be
the same picture.
All right, here is the back.
The back has a really nice fit on the
top.
The skirt has a center back zipper. I
would have preferred if they would have
had the zipper on the side to match the
top. I mean, if these two things are
intended to be worn together, I would
like to see this completely smooth and
uninterrupted just like this is.
>> [snorts]
>> See how this is like a really nice
natural transition? This kind of is just
like, "Whoa, what's that?" coming from
nowhere.
Um so, if I were to make this, I'd cut
this on the fold and move my zipper over
to the left side.
Um but the skirt, from what we can see,
yeah, the skirt is nice. I wonder about
this style on me because I do have a
fuller bum, and it's like
not necessarily wide as it is bubbly.
So, I just don't know how all these
gathers would do on like a bubble butt.
>> [clears throat]
>> Um maybe that's why I've kind of been
like, you know, a little bit leery of
this
this little trend that's happening. But,
we've got woven such a chambray denim
linen satin and twill. We're saying that
a lot this collection.
It's It's feeling a little bit fall if
I'm being honest. I thought for summer
we'd be seeing a lot more like shally,
seersucker.
Um we'd be seeing more eyelets, things
that are lightweight, easy breezy. A lot
of this stuff is pretty structured,
which is an interesting choice for a
summer collection.
But, notions wise you just need that top
stitching thread, two zippers. They did
include a ribbon for the hanging strap.
That's a really thoughtful detail.
And then fit garment measurement wise,
we don't have that on this one. So,
you're going to want to pay attention to
the bust obviously for the top and then
the waist for the skirt most notably
possibly the hip because it does look
like this
might be the hip line. So, there would
be not as much ease as way down here
where the skirt is really full from all
the gathers.
All right, next we have
this denim skirt, misses and women's
skirt. Now, this is the third combo
misses and women's pattern we've had
this collection.
Again, they're not my favorite because
they're not necessarily
more sizes. There's just
a few women's and a few
misses. I wish that they would just do a
full women's range and a full misses
range. Have four options here. I've seen
them do it before.
That makes more sense to me because you
are really alienating the smaller size
of misses, the upper size of misses, and
the upper size of women's.
So, people are being eliminated from
this. It's not necessarily more
inclusive. Anyways, I talked about that
before. I don't need to dwell on it
again, but
having three patterns, if that's is the
way that they're going to continue to
go,
combining them, then let's just get
more, at least three, you know, three
size options, maybe. I don't know.
We have a high waist flared jean style
skirt features waistbands with a button
closure, fly front zipper, belt loops,
classic jean pockets
in front and back. View A is lower calf,
view B is ankle length. They made theirs
in denim.
Okay, so we have from the hip up, kind
of like a traditional
jeans,
but we do have these princess seams
here. It does look like instead of the
pattern pieces just being
trapezoids,
they're they're shaped. So, it is
getting a little bit See how much volume
is down here, almost like a circle skirt
would be. It's because they're kind of a
little bit flared out at the bottom.
So, that is a really nice elevated
drafting detail. Happy to see that.
Um other than that, I mean,
it is just another jean skirt.
I don't know that we need another jean
skirt added to the lexicon of the all
the sewing patterns that we have that
kind of look like this.
Um
maybe
I don't know.
Maybe quality over quantity. Like, let's
focus on
giving a collection like some really
good trends, some really good unique
details, rather than just another basic
thrown in, and just pull the basics from
the catalog that you've been, you know,
building for 50, 60 years, you know? Get
the best of the basics and just always
keep that online. I don't know.
All right, so suggested fabrics cotton
sateen, denim, midweight canvas, and
twill. Again, it's like those bottom
weight fabrics. I mean, you could make
this out of something lightweight, but
it would be you would have to eliminate
all of the denim details from it. So,
that would be pointless. You would just
pick another pattern for that. This
really does need to have some weight and
structure to it to be able to hold up to
just everything that's going on on the
top half of it.
But, you'll need a jean zipper, jean
buttons, and heavy-duty heavy-duty
topstitching thread. Those are easy to
source. They're not the cheapest things
in the world, but they are easier to
find these days.
And then, the waist we have 2 in of
ease.
Did it say where it sat? If 2 in of
ease, it's going to sit like a little
bit below your natural waist. It's just
going to fall down a little bit.
Maybe that's where it's intended. It's
not supposed to sit up high on your
waist. I don't think it said. And then,
the hip is
um got 3 in of ease. I'm surprised
there's not more in there given
But yeah, I guess it's it doesn't really
start out to it doesn't really start to
flare out until the bottom. So,
um it does say high-waist. 2 in of ease
for a high-waist, I don't know about
that. Especially if you're in between
sizes and you're getting like 2 and 1/2
in of ease, that's too much for a
high-waisted. So, pay attention to the
waist for sure if you go to make this.
All right, now we have Mrs.
Utility-inspired dress, okay? This is
sizes 6 to 14 and 14 to 22.
Square-neck utility dress with wide
straps, close-fitting bodice, flared
skirt. Design details include patch
pockets with flaps and bold
topstitching.
Front separating zipper
with heavy-duty snaps create a strong
utility look while allowing for easy
wear. Length variations are mini to
maxi, and they made theirs out of a
yellow denim.
So, yeah, this is kind of like I don't
know, it's giving like apron.
It's giving like welder apron
specifically.
>> [laughter]
>> Um maybe like a little bit of like a
carpenter vibe as well. It is definitely
utility. I Some things I do like about
this, the hidden invisible zip the
hidden zipper in here with just the flap
crossing over. That is really well
executed on this. I do like all of the
details. I'm not so sure it's
necessarily my style. I'm not this
girly rugged, but I know some people I
can picture them in my mind, people who
are going to be able to pull this off
really, really well and look
exceptional.
Um maybe not for me, but I'm wondering
if you removed some of these
I mean, those shaped pockets are really
beautiful, but if you removed some of
them,
what would you be left with? Would that
still be cool, or does that defeat the
whole purpose? It probably defeats the
whole purpose. But, I do really like
this. I like the crisscross, the top
stitching. I mean, this is a beautiful
dress. It does have like a drop waist
situation. So,
you know, it's kind of
it's not looking like that so much here,
but here it's giving kind of like
mermaid. Um with all the volume that is
in this circle skirt essentially that is
attached to this.
So, that's an interesting thought. It
really is like
it really is like some
I don't even know. Like I I know where
you would wear this, obviously. It's
it's a really cute daytime
outfit, but it is elevated even though
it's utility. It's It's Yeah, the the
Venn diagram of this is a lot of
different things going on here.
All right, there she is again. Let's me
see the fit of the top here.
So this kind of scoops down. Obviously,
it is a little bit big on her. To be
expected for a, you know, the garment
wasn't made for her. She obviously
didn't make it herself and it wasn't
made to her measurements.
So we do have some gaping. Not the worst
that I've ever seen though. This is
definitely passable, definitely
wearable. I mean, you just being super
nitpicky. If I saw her in the streets in
this exact thing, I'd be like that's
fine.
You know, I wouldn't be like, "Whoa,
that looks so big on her." I don't think
it's like that.
But there is that must be the longest
version, right? Or does she have the
longest version? Maybe this is the
That's a mini, obviously. Maybe this is
the midi length.
And then here's the back. Here's the
thing about drop waist. Similar to that
pointed yoke, I don't know how great
this looks on a bubble butt. And I'm not
willing to spend the time to make
something to figure that out. I need to
go to a store and try on
a Is it It's mermaid, right? A mermaid
dress and see what I think of of that.
But yeah, you can see here too how it's
just a little bit little bit big on the
sides for her.
All right, the back is going to have
those same suggested fabrics that we've
seen over and over and over again,
right? Isn't this feeling more like
fall? Can't you see that? If it weren't
a sunshine yellow color,
it would be a fall pattern, don't you
think?
Um okay, and then finish garment
measurements. There is only 1 and 1/2
inches of ease in the bust.
She must be in between sizes maybe and
she's getting closer to two.
The waist has 1 and 1/2 as well and then
the hip has four. So the waist and the
hip I'm not too worried about, but that
um
that bust here, because it does swoop
down a little bit, you won't be able to
wear a bra with this or your at least
your bra strap would the band would
show.
Um
but that part. This you do have some op-
opportunities to snatch the waist with
these
um
seams that they have like these princess
seams. And then
yeah, the this is going to be a fitted
hip. They say that there's 4 in of ease.
I don't know if I'm seeing 4 in of ease
in her
hip though. If we go back here, like I
think that this is the natural This is
the her
hip line. Um maybe they were measuring a
little bit a little bit lower, but I
would check this measurement on your hip
if I'm going to make this
um to make sure it fits. But you do
again have more seams in here to play
with so that you can
um so that you can get the fit.
Remember, like I said before, we have um
1 in for every seam there is, so that's
1 2 3 4 5 6 uh around the waist and then
the hip. I don't know if these extend
down far enough or not, but
in the front at least in the back they
do. So that would at least be 1 2 3 4 in
that you have to play with there.
All right. What is next?
Okay, this is our last pattern.
Um this is a misses and miss petite
sleeveless dress. Okay, the deal with
misses petite is that it's not
necessarily smaller sizes, but it's
going to have
um lines on the pattern where you can
shorten things cuz petite doesn't always
mean small. Petite means short. Um so
you will be able to play around with,
you know, the torso length
the length from the waist to the hip and
then the hip to the hem.
This comes in sizes 6 to 14 and then 14
to 22. So see we're not even at the
smallest of the misses range.
Sleeveless button front fit and flare
dress features princess seams that open
into front back
front and back inverted pleats along
with cut-in armholes and V-neckline with
exaggerated pointed collar. Dress can be
made
mini length
with or without contrast collar
or in a mid-calf
length. Okay.
So, I think that's a little misleading.
It's making it sound like you can leave
the collar off.
I don't think
that you can do that easily without
redrafting
the at least the finish of the neckline.
It's made It's intended to be made with
the collar. I think what they're saying
is optional is the contrasting.
That part is optional. But,
some things that I love, these princess
seams opening up into these
inverted pleats, that's so cute. It's
giving kind of like a little bit of like
a Tennessee vibe, but the collar really
does take it away from sporty,
which is nice. They said that there was
a cut-in
sleeveless situation. Like you can see
here, this is teeny tiny. There's a lot
more here. So, I would like to see this
cut in
even more.
And it does also It's hard to see on
this picture, but it looks a little
high. The the
armhole depth feels a little bit small.
There's that same one. Let's see if we
get a closer up picture of her. Well, I
don't know, but you can see her.
Okay, yeah, it's it's close. I think
again, if this weren't extended so far
out and it were cut in more, this would
feel a little bit more natural. It's not
at the place where it would be like
uncomfortable when she puts her arms
down. It's not pulling anywhere. I just
think we need to cut this in a little
bit more.
Here's the back.
The back armhole looks good, but you can
see how we're like filling all of this
in. If all of this were narrower through
here, we'd come out like this.
So, easy easy alteration to make.
And then here's the back inverted
pleats. Cute cute little mini dress. Um
with and they do have the multiple
lengths, so you could do mini or midi.
This I think would be a little bit more
elegant. This is a little bit more cute.
But, really fun.
Cute little design. I don't think I've
seen anything like that before. Even
without the collar, you don't see a lot
of princess seams opening up into pleats
like that. I love that.
Okay, and then
back of the envelope is cotton types,
crepe, damask, denim, lightweight wool
blends, linen types, and PK. All right,
so we're starting to expand the
suggested fabrics a little bit,
including things that might be a little
bit more summery.
Not like the most summery fabrics. I
mean, there's wool blends.
I'm not wearing a wool blend of any kind
in the summer. So, I wonder if this is a
move. I know that they, you know, we're
just bought and kind of independently
owned at this point. Um
they used a four-ply crepe on theirs.
But, anyways, because there's that
the fact that the the suggested fabrics
that the the design to be meant for
these kind of structured weightier
fabrics, so many of them, and the fact
that there's only 10 patterns, which,
you know, normally McCall's has like 20
or so,
I'm starting to see the effects of
that transition into the more
independently owned pattern company. If
it were me, you know, you got to keep
the Laura Ashley in here, that's fine.
Um I would have ditched maybe one of
these and moved one to the holiday
collection and then ditch the skirt
because we have denim skirts already and
only included these few or maybe swapped
those two out for something truly
summery. Like I don't really feel like
any of this is super
summery. This is probably the only
thing.
All of these could be fall patterns and
I wouldn't I wouldn't know the
I wouldn't suspect anything weird.
But that said, they are cute.
Um, I'm not disappointed. They're cute
patterns. These will sell.
I'm happy to have them added to the
entire collection of sewing patterns
that are available to us. I just think
choices were made. All right, that is
the new McCall's summer collection. And
now I want to hear from you.
Which pattern is your favorite? Which
one is already going on your sewing wish
list? Which one do you think I might
have gotten wrong in my opinions?
Leave a comment below because half the
fun of these videos for me and for you
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watching and I'll see you all very soon.
Bye.