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NEW McCall's *Late& SUMMER Patterns | Which Ones Are Actually Worth Sewing?

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The video provides a comprehensive review of the new McCall's "Late Summer" pattern collection, highlighting how major publishers continue to release multiple seasonal drops despite significant industry shifts. The host evaluates each design based on sizing accuracy using alpha-numeric ranges, recommended fabrics ranging from stretch ponte and denim to soft shantung crepes, and the overall cost-effectiveness including notions like zippers, snaps, and interfacing. While some patterns are praised for their retro styling and versatile fabric options such as gingham or printed silks, others face criticism regarding inflated ease measurements that seem algorithmically calculated rather than practically fitted, particularly in items claiming roominess where bust ease reaches up to eleven inches. Several specific designs stand out during the analysis, including the Mrs. Knit Midi Skirt described as a "one-yard wonder" with hidden elastic below the natural waist, and the Unisex Balloon Fit Pants which offer a loose fit that mitigates concerns about unisex sizing for women's crotches. The collection also features vintage-inspired pieces like 1970s tops and pants with ruffles and darts, as well as sporty raincoats requiring expensive notions that could push total material costs over thirty dollars for beginners. However, the host notes potential drawbacks such as confusing line drawings in certain patterns, unnecessary lace trims adding to the price point without significant value, and fabric yardage lists provided only for 45-inch width which may not reflect actual needs when using wider fabrics or testing layouts first. The review concludes that while some items like the Dolman Sleeve Top might be better hacked from existing patterns rather than purchased at a premium price of sixteen dollars, others offer solid styling and good fabric choices worth considering for specific wardrobes. The host emphasizes the importance of checking finished garment measurements against personal stats instead of relying solely on pattern ease numbers, which are often misleadingly large in this collection. Despite questioning certain construction details like bias tape versus ribbon requirements or spiral-cut flounces that complicate simple hacks, the overall verdict is positive for McCall's producing a solid assortment with diverse options ranging from empire waist pajamas to pullover dresses and wrap tops suitable for various skill levels and fabric preferences.
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Hi you guys. Welcome back to another first impression video. We just got the news that McCall's has dropped their late summer collection. Um, so again with all of the the changes going on at the big five, interesting to see that we're still doing the multiple season drops like early summer, summer, late summer. We'll be interested to know if that keeps up or not. But for now, we do have a late summer collection from McCall's. So, we're going to take a look at each and every pattern. Oh, this is interesting. All of the cover photos all have the McCall's branding on them with some little like easy to sew thing on there. Okay. Not all of them. Is this their new pattern cover? This gray background. Interesting. Anyways, we're going to take a look at each and every one of these patterns. Um, I'll chat with you about just some sizing issues that I see if I see any. We'll talk about fabric. We'll talk about fit. We'll talk about kind of the general cost of all of these patterns. Um, if they are going to be expensive or not. So, let's dig in. The first one is this Mrs. Knit midi skirt. We have all the sizes in one envelope, alpha numeric, extra small to 2X. We'll talk about what that means when we look at the back of the envelope. Slim fitting midi length skirt is worn 1 inch below the natural waistline. Featuring hidden elastic for a smooth sleek look. Skirt includes a high side front walking slit and a lace trimmed hem for a clean and pretty finish. Easy to follow. Detailed step-by-step instructions blah blah blah. Okay, so they used a stretch ponte knit. Other fabrics would be cotton interlock, jersey, lightweight double knits, stretch velvet. We do have a see the stretch gauge thing, which where's the stretch gauge, guys? We can't see it on here. Um, so that's silly. I will stand on this soap box until they start giving us percentages of stretch here. All we need to know is what's the percentage of stretch? We're all shopping online. All the online retailers are providing the percentage of stretch for their fabrics, so you guys can just put it right here and make it so easy for us to shop online while we're shopping for our fabrics. Anyways, we'll see if that's on the back of the envelope. Fingers crossed. Um, but cotton interlock and jersey, interesting choices. Those would be pretty lightweight, you know, kind of showing lumps and bumps, if you will. I would go for a more substantial knit like Ponti, like a double knit, a sweater knit, cable knit, maybe um a heavyweight. What am I thinking? Rib knits would be good. Things like that. [snorts] All right. So, it does look like we have a seam here to aid with the slit. And then they just put this trim around. I don't know. What do you guys think of the trim? Does it look kind of cheap? I hate that word, but I don't know. It might be more sleek looking if it didn't have that. And then is this the side seam? Yes. Okay. Yeah, they said semi fitted. We're getting It's pretty fitted. Um, but I do like the hidden elastic that does provide a nice clean finish. And it is sitting 1 inch below her natural waist, so that's good. Oh, well, would you look at this? I think we are rebranding the envelopes, guys. This is clean. I will say we do not have a stretch gauge on here. It would fit beautifully right here. Or again, just give us the percentages. we would be happy with that too. Okay, so this is all a repeat from the front. These are the notions that you need. 1 and 1/2 in elastic and then this lace trim. So if you left off the lace trim and just hemmed it like normal, you would save a lot of money. These these flat lace trims really do add up in cost. Um 1 and 12 inch elastic. I don't know. That's kind I have that in my stash usually. Um, so that to me isn't like an additional cost necessarily, but that might just be girl math. All right, sizes, body, and finished garment measurements. How is that working? Oh, down here. Finish back length. Cinch one and Oh, is that all we're going to get? Oh, no. Finished hip is up in here. Okay. I mean, I don't hate it. It's just different. It's new. We'll get used to it. So 31 in 31 12 to 32 and 1/2. And we're going to get a finished hip of 32. So you either have 1 and 12 or half an inch of positive E. Semi. Yeah, I guess semifitted. I would think fitted might be zero or negative E. So yeah, I'll let that I'll let that slide. I'll let that that makes sense to me. Um, if you don't want it that fitted, obviously size up. You'll get an additional 2 in if you do that. Fabric requirements. So, 60in fabric, we're looking at 1 and 1/8 yards all the way across. Um, it could be a one yard wonder, guys, if you cuz they usually provide a little bit of extra fabric. Um, if yours is 62 in, maybe a 1 yard wonder, 62, 64, uh, 58 in fabric, yeah, you probably need to buy the whole one and a quarter. I don't think you can even buy eighs, so you can buy the one and a quarter, but I don't know, make it a little bit shorter. Double check the finished length from your one inch below your waist down to whatever you consider to be midi length. Um, you might be able to get away with one yard. I like that. I like that it doesn't take a lot of fabric. Okay, next we've got pattern unisex balloon fit pants. Okay, typically when we have the unisex patterns and they are pants, I get a little bit concerned because a woman's crotch and a man's crotch are not the same. So using the same pattern pieces can get a little funky when those pants like the more fitted they get the more funky that gets. But obviously these are very loose fitting in the crotch. So we shouldn't be worried about that at all. Um the sizing is going to be again all the alpha numeric sizes. Very loose fitting pull-on pants designed to be worn one inch below the waist. Feature a double row elastic waistline casing. I personally love that. Sid seam pockets. Back patch pockets. Mock fly front detail. All right, so faux fly. Um, balloonshaped legs are created with front pleats and controlled at the leg hem with darts. I don't know what controlled means. All accented with top stitching. All right. They use an organic cotton twill. Organic cotton twill. All right. It isn't even like a blend. It's just 100% or uh cotton. So that's good. Um, broadcloth, cotton types, denim, gabardine, linen types, popppland, and twill. Yeah, I mean, you have to have something with a little bit of drape in it to be able to handle the elastic and the gathering that the elastic is going to create, but you do want something that's going to hold that leg. Um, so I think the type of fabric, the weight of it matters, and also the weave of it matters. So it being a twill um popplin weave makes sense. Even if it's like a blend, so a cotton rayon blend, a linen rayon blend, something like that, you need it. It has to be that good balance between drape and structure. I do want to look at this. Oh, well, I never would have guessed based on this. Maybe because they're so long on her. Yeah, you can see them there, but you're not getting that. You're not really even seeing that detail at all. Obviously, that can be left out. And you just have like, you know, a white like pant. Um, but yeah, those would need to be a lot shorter on her for us to be able to tell what's going on there. And he's slouched down. Let's see if we can get some pictures of anybody. Um, oh, here's him standing up. Okay. So yeah, when you have like a a smaller break there with the the length, um you can see that it's balloonish. I mean, it's very subtle in the world of, you know, balloon pants that we've been doing. What are they called? The um oh shoot, you know which ones I'm talking about? Barrel leg. This is very very very subtle. Um I need them to be like an inch maybe. somewhere between an inch and two inches shorter on her. It makes me wonder, are they too big and they fell down? Cuz this is her waistline. So, I'm wondering if she pulled them up a little bit. Right? You can see where her natural waist is like right here where this shirt is ending. So, if we had somewhere in between that for her um for the rise, maybe that would be a little bit better on the the gathering. Yeah, you can see on him too, it is a little bit long. So, we're going to double check the inseam length for sure. Um the back looks as you'd expect the back to look of a gathered um elastic waist pant. Not not as diapery as I've seen. Um, but yeah, I think that the curve looks nice. It's curving in where you'd expect it to. So, yeah, you can definitely tell this is more of a cotton twill now that we're getting closer up pictures. You can see how it's not not super drapey. It's got a little bit of crispness to it. You can see that kind of through here. Okay. So, all you need for this is 3/4 inch elastic. Um, you do need quite a bit of it because you're doing the two rows that I love the two rows. I love a substantial elastic waist. I like it for it to have some heft to it. That might be a personal thing to me, but um, okay. And then the width of each leg and the finished side, not the inseam. Interesting choice there. We're also getting no finished garment measurements. It kind of makes sense because it is such a loose- fitting garment and then the elastic is going to be what um nips you in at the waist. So yeah, we don't technically have to know. I personally would like to know the hip just cuz I'd like to gauge how much extra fabric is going to be at my hip, but I understand I guess why they don't provide that question mark. [laughter] Um, okay. Fabric requirements. All of those fabrics they mentioned are going to be 60 inish. Three yards. Yeah, you need a little bit of it to um because they're so wide. Um there it is a lot of fabric. Interfacing. I think that's just for the waistband. 5/8 of a yard. Okay. All right. It helps that there's not a ton of notions with that. Um, so you can spend a little bit more on fabric maybe. All right, here we have a swing dress. Sizing is going to be wow. Alpha numeric sizing again. That's s surprising. Above knee swing dress features short sleeves, pointed collar, easy to sew placket with front buttons, back yolk, side seam pockets, front and back plates help control the fullness while adding a touch of tailoring. I don't even see front and back, please. We'll look at the line drawing. Um, they used a cotton shirting, so a nice crisp cotton shirting. Uh, but you could also use Yes. Chamé, cotton, and cotton blends for sure. Denim. Denim. Yes. If it's not a chamé denim, the lighter weight denim the better. PK, that's a good choice. linen and linen blends, rayon and viscous blends. The more rayon that's in it, the more drapey it'll be, the more it'll fall in on your body, stable jersey knits, tensel denim, so like a rayon denim blend. It's interesting they called that out separately because they have denim and they have rayon. So I don't know. Um, but what did they call them? Pleat. Oh, front and back pleat. So, this is the back pleet. This is the front pleet underneath this little placket. Okay. Okay. I mean, cute little shirt dress. Cute little take on a shirt dress for sure. Um, you do have the button placket. Beautifully sewn on their end. It does not have a stand. It's just a rollover collar, I think. So, that's a little bit easier to sew. The shoulder length is on her a little bit long. Um, you can see how this is coming out like this and then this pokes out. It makes me think that this might not be full enough, but if we were to pull this up onto her shoulder, would all of this straighten out to make a line like this? I don't know. M probably. Probably. It's not the end of the world. Again, if I saw her in the streets, I wouldn't be like, "Girl, you're shoulder length." [laughter] I would never say that. Um, but you can see even whenever she's standing up perfectly straight. Yeah. on this end. You can really see that's the end of her shoulder. So, I want to pull this up a little bit on top of her shoulder to make um this in here fit within the socket of her shoulder. Oh, look at the side view. Well, that's adorable. That should be the front picture. I'm just saying. um with that shirting. It's just, you know, standing so full and the cotton's I mean the collar's like kind of popped. That's a really cute picture. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. For sure. Given that retro look to it. Did we get some top stitching here? Yeah, a little bit, I think. Um and then just like a little baby hems everywhere. This is cute, guys. This is really cute. Um, yeah, I think this one's going to do really well for them. Easy to sew, too. I mean, the button placket probably brings it to intermediate or very confident beginner. Um, this little finishing that bottom of that is kind of hard. So is the collar. Um, so maybe an intermediate. Uh, but I think it'll still do well for them. Okay. All you need is interfacing and six 3/8 in buttons. So, those little buttons. Um, sure you can go down to quarter or up to a half. I bet that would be fine. You would not barely notice. All right. Are we going to get any finished? Okay. Finished bust line. Perfect. It is going to be roomy, but this will, again, like I was saying about the hip measurements of the pants, it will help you gauge how oversized this is going to be through the body. I would probably also measure against the shoulder length um and upper bust. I would check all of those or maybe even just base it off of your upper bust. So if your finished bust is 39 but your upper bust is 37, you'd make the smaller one [snorts] cuz it is going to be so roomy through here, but you want it to be kind of fitted from here up. Yeah. All right. And then obviously check the length so that you're not wasting any fabric whenever you go to cut it out. And then fabric requirements up to 2 and 5/8. So you could probably squeeze it out of 2 and 1/2. Um especially if you're shorter. I feel like they base theirs off of 56. Let me double check. Um yeah, five. I hate this. About 5'5 to 5'6. Okay, whatever. Um, so that's what those are based off of. So if you're shorter than that, you can definitely adjust the length. Okay, now we have this pajama set, which if you ask me, especially this heat wave we've been having, I'd be wearing this out. I don't know if you guys know Paige Shaorbo. She was on a reality TV show called Summerhouse. She has a very popular podcast called Giggly Squad. She started her own pajama line called Daphne and they produce a lot of stuff like this. And she does a really good job of showing how it's yes, pajamas, but you can also style it to be worn out of the house. And this is definitely reminding me of that. Um, let me know if there's any gigglers watching. Um, okay. again with the alpha numeric sizing. That's I can't believe there's this many of those. Pull over baby doll top features elastic empire waistline with a ruffle. Are they calling this a ruffle? Okay. V-neckline with lace trim and narrow shoulder straps that tie into bows at the back. Well, that's cute. That's super cute. Um bows at the back. Pull on shorts are gathered and flared. I like the flare. I like the flare. Sitting one inch below the waist with a wide elastic band. They used a cotton stripe. You can also use chamé chararmmuse if you wanted like a silky. There's silky types here. Cotton lawn. Yeah, for sure. Crinkled gauze. Mhm. Oh, you could even go knit with a jersey, lightweight cotton, lightweight linens, and then we already said silky types. Okay. So, it really is a sweetheart neckline neckline [snorts] with elastic underbust. I can't I now I'm They're saying it's a ruffle and I do feel like there's the elastic of it all, but this is also ruffled attached to the elastic. Is that even possible? I don't think there's a single dart. Let me see. Yeah. So, I mean, do you need to buy this pattern? That's up to you and what you have in your stash. Could you find something that looks like this and add elastic to it? Probably. I will say the thing that this has going for it is the volume. So, if you are going to make this this all, how am I going to say this? The elastic, yes, is pulling it in, but underneath the elastic part is very, very full. Same thing with the pant. like you have the elastic, but what's beyond the elastic is very very full, which is different than what we usually see with pull- on pajama shorts. Um, so I don't know. Yeah, there. That's freaking cute. Adorable. And then these tie. Now, I think that is this a loop in the back? Let's see. Still can't tell. Um, otherwise it's like, yeah, it's just bows in the back because you tied them down here. You could tie them up here. You could tie them in the front. Um, or just leave them off altogether. Does seem kind of weird to be sleeping in that. But, you know, yeah, definitely no loop. That's just where they tied them. But dang, if that's not This is one of those times when the pattern design, the fabric that they chose, I mean, hate to say it, even the model and her cute little baby face like porcelain doll type, the hair, the styling, everything kind of just works. And that's that's when you get a sellout pattern. So, good for them. Happy to see it. Okay, notions. uh package of half inch wide singlefold bias tape. I probably make my own because the bias tape you buy is very crispy depending on the fabric that you're using. Um but I kind of enjoy making my own too. 1 and 38 yard of 1/4 in elastic and also 3/8 in elastic. 1 in flat lace trim which you could leave off. Again, the the trimmings is where we start to get expensive. Um, and then the short also needs 1 and 1/2 inch elastic. So, we have Huh. Why do we have a/4 inch elastic and 3/8 inch elastic? Oh, okay. Okay. Wait, wait, wait. Quarterinch elastic 38 yard of 1 in flat lace trim. Okay. So, you don't need a ton of flat lace trim. That's promising. Um, I'm pretty sure it is just top stitched on. So, I bet you could go to the thrift store and find something that has a little bit of flat lace trim. Even if it's not exactly 1 in, you could find something there. Or even like a ribbon you could use. So, yeah, that's not that's not that bad. Um, quarterinch elastic, 1 and 1/2 in elastic. If you're not making elastic things a lot, yeah, you wouldn't have that on hand. But I do feel like it can. It's affordable on on the Z. Is that what we're calling it? Um, that's Amazon. [laughter] Okay. Um, let's see. Finished bust is all we're going to get for this. And it it is roomy. 7 in of room in the bust. Did we feel like that's what she had? M I mean I'm not seeing a whole lot of extra through here. I'm certainly not seeing 7 in. So that's a little bit concerning actually now that I'm thinking of it. Is it 7 in be? It can't be before the elastic. That doesn't make any sense. This feels like a lot now that I'm looking at the pictures. It should be closer to like two, maybe three. So, seven feels like a lot. Yeah, I'd double check that for sure. Um, and then the width of the leg, that's going to be your thigh opening basically. I guess you could check that. I do feel like it's pretty roomy. Even for those of us that have like athletic thighs, I think we would probably be fine. Okay, so they're separating out the shorts and the top when it comes to fabric requirements. The top is going to be 1 and 1/4 yards. You could probably get that into a yard. And then the shorts are going to be 1 to 1 and 3/8 depending on your size. Yeah, if the top is really oversized and and those finished garment measurements are correct. Yeah, this is going to be a one yard wonder for sure. And then the shorts looked fine in length and they're not giving us much in terms of finished garment measurements anyways. So yeah, you might be able to eat this out of like two and a half if you were to sew them all out of the same fabric. But yeah, this is adorable. I need a sale. Um cuz I'm not paying $16 for that. So sorry. Not sorry. [laughter] Okay. Next we have dolman sleeve top. All right. Um alpha numeric sizing again. Strange. Is that their way of getting around people complaining about sizing? I don't know. Okay. Hip length pullover top with short dolman sleeves. Features a batau front neckline. V back side rouching. I like that. Created by elastic casings at the side seam. Cinch in the waist for even more shaping with narrow back ties. Yeah. Okay. So, they it's this no batau front. So, they have this swapped. This is the front and this is the back. V back. It says right here. Okay. So, this is just a very wide batau that they're dipping off of her shoulder. Gosh, I don't know. I think those of us that know how to construct the side seams like this. You definitely don't need a $16 pattern to make this. Um, you could probably figure out how to make this on your own. It's cute and I thankful for the idea, but yeah, I don't know if I need I don't know if I even need a pattern for this. You can see the shape of it right here. So, you're really just making like a Gosh, I'm sure you have a dolman sleeved something. Even if it has a sleeve attached to here, just leave that off. And you're going to do it looks like a one inch facing. And then you're going to do the elastic on the sides. Super super easy. Yeah, interesting outfit. All right. And then there's the back tie. Uh, yeah. I don't know that we need that. I don't feel like it's doing that much to cinch in at her waist. If we didn't have the rushing probably, but Oh, did we talk about fabric? No. What did they use? Some kind of cotton? Yeah, stretch cotton popppllin. Stretch cotton popppllin on top of that. So, this is a pretty structured fabric. Yeah. What else do they recommend? Broadcloth. Shalley is going to be really drapey. Still fine, but kind of, you know, drapey, borderline silky. Chamé is going to have some structure to it. Sure. Moose is going to be drapey. Cotton types. Crepe to sheen. Jersey. This is what I would probably make it in. Linens and linen blends. Silky types. Yeah, you really can make this out of just about anything. You don't want to go too heavy weight, but you can definitely go pretty structured. The more structured it is, the more that these will stand open, the more that this will stand out. Um, and it can't take that much fabric. Where are we? Uh, two yards. Surprising. The extra small is 1 and a4 and the 2X is uh 2 yards. Maybe because it's the both of them are cut on the fold. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. So, if your fabric when you fold both salvages in to meet at the middle, if your pattern pieces don't fit on both of those folds, then yeah, it would take more fabric. But could you just cut the back on the fold on with a seam? Maybe. Maybe. Yeah, you uh you could probably get away with well it depends on how wide your fabric is. Maybe try and find a fabric that's at that like 64 in place or use something from the thrift store that's like a sheet or a curtain or something and you get tons of width with that. Um okay, you do need a little bit of interfacing probably for that facing and then finished bust. They're giving us 4 in. That makes sense with what I'm seeing here. It is pretty roomy through here. Where's the picture where she has it up on her shoulders? Yeah, you can see there. Pretty roomy. So, yeah, that makes sense. Like, it's weird that this has 4 in of ease and the little spaghetti tank top had seven. Can you see now why that doesn't make sense in terms of how they were fitting her? Yeah. Okay. Okay. What is next? We have Oh, we don't do the girls patterns on these videos because I don't really know how to talk about fit. Um, so we skip over the girls patterns. And here we go. Mrs. Knit pajamas. How stinking cute is that? Again, alpha numeric sizing. All the sizes in one. Knit semi-fitted pullover top. features round neck lines, long or short sleeves, ribbon bow accents, pull on semi-fitted shorts and pants feature mockfly fronts, button front trim, rain ribbon bow accents, contrast elastic waistline casing. The shorts have slightly curved hems and the widele pants have sidseam pockets. Okay, cute. Adorable. I would live in this around the house. shorts or pants to be honest with you. Um they used a cotton spandex jersey, cotton spandex, cotton jersey. Okay. Um moderate stretch knits like bamboo would be a dream. Little bit pricey but then cotton jersey interlock it modal rib knit. Yeah, I was thinking pointel classic. Um what's waffle? wafflenit classic. Um, yeah. Yeah, you could find some really, really cute, sweet sleep fabrics for this. The lighter weight they are though, the harder they are to sew. So, maybe that's why they used a jersey. Super easy to sew jersey. [snorts] Um, based on the fit of this on her, can we see this? And we can see this, right? That means there's not enough space going across here, her upper bust, and that's why like the the pulls will point to where the problem is. Okay? So, the problem actually isn't her bicep at all. It's what's happening through here. So, she needs just the littlest most added on to the shoulder length here. Maybe another whatever that is, half an inch, and then blended down. You can even see there's a lot of extra fabric through here. So, it's just a really weirdly shaped arm situation. Um, okay. Cute. And then this is kind of cropped. You do have this contrast band. And then, oh, you had the little buttons on it, too. That's adorable. That's adorable. Um, for those of us with a booty, I'm going to get the back. We're probably going to want to do, yeah, a full b full seat adjustment just to make sure there's enough room for it to go up and over our bums and not having a bottom of our butt cheeks hanging out. But that's an alteration I'm willing to play around with to get it right cuz these are so cute and I know I just know that I would love wearing them. Um, but yeah, other than that, fitwise looks fine. It looks actually fine through the back. Um, these things happening here. Well, I don't know. Now that I'm looking at it, it does look like maybe it is a bicep issue. And it's not like she has a huge bicep. My gosh. So, maybe it's a combination of both. We need a little bit more room through the bicep and a little bit more across the front. Okay. Oh, we're back to the old now. Can you see what we used to deal with and how much cleaner the other one is? Um, certainly easier to read. That's for sure. My eyeballs. 3/4 3/8 of a yard of 3/8 inch ribbon. Okay, I'm sure you can use quarter inch ribbon, which is maybe more common. Also for the pants and shorts, two little buttons and then 1 in elastic. And then body measurements, finished garment measurements, bust and waist of the top and pants. No, that can't be true. The bust is 33 in. So, we're getting roughly 3 in of ease there. Let's double check. I don't know that I'm seeing three inches there. And because it is a um knit, you could definitely go down and utilize some of the stretch of the fabric. 3 in of positive ease for a knit garment does feel like a lot. Um, so don't be afraid to size down on the top, but maybe double checking those spots that I talked about. Yeah. H. And then the waist of the top is supposedly 5 in of ease, but so is the short, but the short has the elastic, so that's Yeah, I guess that makes sense. the waist on the pant. This including B here. Oh, AB. My bad. Okay, those are the tops. Okay. Okay, that makes a lot more sense. I didn't realize they separated the tops into short sleeve and long sleeve. Okay, I got you now. I got you now. So, yeah, 5 in at the waist for the top. I think makes sense. It is kind of boxy, I do think. Let's look at this. This might help. Yeah, if this is straight up and down, then that also means that waist measurement is going to be what the hip measurement is. And when we look at that, that would be hip is 32 and 28. So there would be well, it's not the full hip though because it doesn't go all the way down. somewhere around your high hip area, you would measure against this um finished waist measurement as well because it is just a square. I don't think it's flaring out at all. Um so again, that's why I would want it to fit through here and then if it's a little bit tight and stretched across my bust, that would be fine. Especially if you're using some of these super stretchy knits, like bamboo is really stretchy. Uh, jersey not so much. Um, modal definitely is. Ity definitely is. So, if you're using a super stretchy knit, don't be afraid to have it fully stretch across your bust there and fit through the waist and hip kind of loose. All right, men's wear. We're going to skip. We're going to skip. Um, here we have a unisex parka hooded jacket. [snorts] All the sizes are in one. That must be what we're doing now. I mean, I guess it does certainly force people to um look at the size charts and not just assume, oh, I'm a 12 in the stores. So, I guess maybe that makes sense. Front zipped hooded jacket featuring front flap pockets and side seam pockets for convenient storage. That's an interesting word to use. along with articulated sleeves for easy movement. Corded waist creates a snug adjustable fit with elasticated cuffs and adjustable straps finish with back rain flap. They used a riptop in gold for the woman. You can also use cotton blends, lightweight denim, lightweight wool, linen blends, riptop nylon, and ponty. >> [laughter] >> I don't know about any of that. Um, yeah, the rib stop that makes sense. You could probably do it out of a u like a waxed cotton I would see showing up here or a laminated cotton I would see showing up here. I don't know that I would make it out of any of these other things. A lightweight wool. I don't know. That feels weird, right? I mean, it's kind of sporty, but let's here. Look at this. Yeah, this is going to show us much more easy, much easier. You have a yolk. This is the rain flap. So, it's like the yolk but like with a flap on it. You have this is a side seam or not a side seam. This is a seam here, but it also has like either pleated and it comes together and there like you can there's like a you know space there or is that where the pocket is? But you also have these pockets. This must be the articulated sleeve they're talking about when you have like a dart on your elbow. And then elastic. And then the cording here. You have cording up here. Hidden button placket. I mean, it is a really welldesigned kind of um raincoat anorak type of deal. I'm still trying to see what's happening here in that diagonal seam. It might just be a flap again. Oh, okay. You know what? This is a silly looking picture, but I do appreciate them showing us the shape of the hood because so many times you get a hood that is the opening is so big that when the wind blows, it's just like there no point in having a hood. It just blows it away. So, I do appreciate that. This curved hem is nice. I mean, there's a lot of really great features here. Here's the side seam pocket. So, this must just be a flap. I don't know the point of it. I don't know the reason why you'd need it, but there's the back. There's the back. I don't know, guys. This is cute. When you just I mean, I don't love her school bus yellow version. I don't really love his blue version either. I don't know what color I would want or if there is a print that I would rather have, but design-wise, it's giving all that it needs to give. It's all that you would ever need for a rain coat type of sporty thing. Um, let's see. Oh, this is where it's going to get really pricey, though. So, one way separating zipper, 5/8 of a yard of 1 and 1/4 in elastic, two single hole barrel stops, so cord stops. Two double hole barrel stops. So, a single hole and a double hole. My gosh. Three yards of elastic cording. Five 5/8 in snaps. Six eyelets with a/4 in opening. and double fold bias tape. So, I have a lot of this because I have made interacts and things like this before, but if you haven't and you're buying all this for the first time, this is easily going to be $30 easily. Um, so keep that in mind for sure. We got a chest measurement, finished chest measurement, so we've got 7 in. That makes sense. It is going to be roomy for sure. interfacing. You need almost a Yeah. 3/4 of a yard of interfacing. I lie. You need two and a/4 yards of interfacing. Is the whole thing interfaced but only partially lined? That's strange. What could be interfaced if not the whole thing? Cuz this is 3 and 5/8. So a extra yard and a half of main fabric. than your interfacing. I don't love the idea of interfacing being exposed. That feels really strange. The lining must just be for the hood. [snorts] Maybe the pocket bags. I can see it's interfacing things like the pocket here. Maybe this thing. I don't know. I'd probably get a hold of the pattern before I started going off buying that much interfacing. But yardage wise, in addition to all of these notions, yeah, up to just about four yards of fabric if you're making the 2X, like the largest size, but even the smallest size is a little bit more than three. Riptop is not super expensive though. Um, you can find it pretty readily available under $10 a yard, I would think. But if you start getting into waxed cotton, laminated cotton, yeah, that can get a little bit pricey. Yeah. I wish they showed us Are they Did they ever show us the inside? Did anybody ever open theirs up? They usually don't. Yeah. In fact, they kept them all zipped up the whole time, too. I don't know. Well, I might would skip the interfacing on the if it's on the body or the sleeve anywhere for sure. I'm skipping that. Okay. Now, we have this 1970s top pant and skirt. Vintage McCall's 1970s top pants and skirt sewing pattern. This top features elastic in their ruffle and waistline casings and may include tie shoulder straps. pants or pants or skirt have a left side zipper. Love that. Um, suggestions are going to be shalleyally crepe satin back crepe aka crepe back satin silk synthetic foolard. That is something I've I've never seen that Sarra synthetic jersey and the pants or skirt can also be or the pants and skirt can only be shalley crepe lightweight wool wool synthetic double knits. The skirt can also be in velvet. Wow, that's confusing. I like that they give so many options. I like that they break out the top and the pants as being two separate fabric suggestions. Um, but yeah, it's just it can get kind of confusing reading all of that. So, we aren't going to get this on a model, I don't think, but you do have this like cutie little top with this ruffle, a little elastic waistband that you can probably leave off, and then an elastic waistband on the pant. No, the pant is fitted. I wonder if there's just a facing or is there elastic in there? This is cute. I do like how A and B, B being eight darts versus the four. What else would be the difference? It doesn't say anything really about that. Okay. Um, oh, that's the skirt supposedly. Oh. Oh my gosh. So, this is the front of the skirt, back of the skirt. Front of the pant, back of the pant. Wow. They really just did not pay attention to these line drawings at all. No wonder it's so confusing for people. Okay, so there's the skirt. All right, that's all we're going to get on pictures. Um, so 2 and 1/2 yards of elastic, 5/8 inch elastic. This is all for the top. One package of single fold bias tape, which again I just make my own. Pants and skirt, a 7-in zipper, hook and eye, gro grain ribbon binding or stretch lace. So that's how they're finishing the waistband. Love it actually. That's a real This is a really It's one of those like hidden in here is some really great design. Um yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Um let's see. Finished skirt and pant waist, you're going to get half an inch. So, not a ton there, but usually it's only half an inch to 1 in is really all you want in a pant like that. And then the hip of the pant and skirt, you're going to have three two and a half inches of ease there. The [snorts] top is kind of negligible, I think, because it's so so much elastic is holding everything together, and the the body of it is loose. The hip is loose. The elastic is what handles the waist. So, another really good one. I think here. I don't know that it will sell well because I don't know how well the illustrated ones do, but I see the value in this one for sure. For sure. Did that one have Did we look at the sizing on that? This one. Okay, finally one with actual sizes. We have 8 to 16 and 18 to 26. Yeah, a little annoying because I'm this on the top and this on the bottoms. Like a top and pants. Pants will be down here. Top will be up here. But say lovey. Say lovey. Story of my life. Okay, we have a Mrs. dress in two lengths. Thanksgiving night gown. All the sizes are in one, but we're missing the 2XL on this. Um, dress A and B featured a flare collar, more like a ruffle, more like a honestly a flounce, and neck binding. Dress C and D include a lower ruffle. Armhole binding. Neck binding extensions that tie at shoulders. A and C have drawring and high-waisted casing. B and D feature a tie belt. Okay. soft fabrics like shalley cotton blends, crepeback satin, crepe toeen, lightweight cotton, sarra, synthetic crepe, which is polyester, polyester, jersey. Okay, I'm pretty sure you can use a cotton jersey. Maybe they're talking about like ITY in that regard. Um, use with nap yardages and layouts for pile shaded or one-way design fabrics. Shouldn't we always be doing that? Okay. Well, okay. Thank you for reminding us, I guess. Um, yeah, cute little sundress. This one was giving. Maybe it's the empire waist with the bow made it feel a little bit night gowny. But yeah, it's just a cute little sundress. Honestly, this one at least you could just use the other pajama pattern. It fits this. It's just lengthen it and then you add a flounce to the bottom. This is a little bit more complicated. This little flouncy thing cuz the flounce is cut like a whatever spiral. So, that's a little bit more challenging. But this, if you only like this one, just go buy that other one and then you also get shorts with it. There she is. Okay. Yes. Uhhuh. All right. So, seam binding optional single fold bias tape. Again, probably should be making your own. And finished measurements. We get a bust measurement of A and B. bust measurement of C and D. There's a half inch difference between the two of those. So roughly 6 in about again that feels like a lot. A lot of them like 6 in there to me. Maybe three maybe. Um and then the length and the lower dress. Yeah, I'm not entirely sure you really need to worry about the bust measurement either. or the waist is done with elastic or the tie belt. So yeah, go off of upper bust, but double check the finished measurement because whatever that was, 6 in is still a lot. That would No, it's not 6 in. You should be going like 2, three, something along those lines on the bust. Okay, now we have Okay, now we have this um 1970s Mrs. and Miss Petite top pants and shorts. I fear those shorts are going to be really cute. 8 to 16, 18 to 26 on the size range. Pretty inclusive there. I think we're only missing four and six. Is there a 28? Maybe. Um, vintage McCall's tops, pants, shorts, sewing pattern, front top, front wrap top features self tie closing at front and are available in sleeveless with shoulder frills or bellshaped sleeves. So, these two tops are the same. You either get this like ruffle sleeve or this bell sleeve. Pants and shorts have flared legs, zipper closing. Okay. For the top, pants and shorts. Shalley cotton knits, lightweight cotton, sarra, synthetic crepe, synthetic jersey lining fabric, lightweight, fusible. Okay. All right. So, very similar to the other pants that I really liked, the ones that came with the pants and the skirt, except those had darts in the front. Um, yeah, darts in the front and then four darts across the back. That's why I liked those better than these. Other than that, the only difference is this has a slight flare to it. Um, so if it were me, I'd be choosing the other pattern that came with the pants and the skirt. Um, this top again, you probably have a crossover bodice like this. It might be attached to a skirt and be a dress, but you just leave the skirt off, create a long tie [snorts] for the waistband, you know, extend it beyond, and then you tie it into a bow, and then you have this. So, this isn't really anything that you probably don't already have or can't hack into. And these pants, I like the other ones better because of all the darts. So, then what else did they give us here? Oh, all of this. So, three snaps for the top to keep it closed. One and a half yards of rick rack for B. Where was the rick rack? Um 7/8 of yard of of ruffled trim. Again, this is getting really expensive. One and a half yards of stretch lace. Is that what's making up the little sleeve on be? It's not fabric. It's all of this stuff. Um, the shorts and pants have a 7-in zipper, hook and eye, 5/8 inch gro grain ribbon, seam binding, so fold over. Okay, so same finish on the waistband as um the other pants. This stuff here, that must be what is making up all that trimming is what's creating the sleeve. So, I don't know. There got to be a cheaper way to do that, too. Okay, another vintage. This one's 60s dress with sleeve variations. We have 8 to 16, 18 to 26 on the size range. Pullover dress with long or short raglin sleeves. Dress is gathered above the waistline by elastic encasing. Upper edge of the dress and sleeves gathered by elastic encasings form deep squared neckline. The lower edge is of either sleeve are gathered by elastic encasings. Okay. Long sleeved dress featuring ribbon tie belt that wraps around the front and back and the short sleeved dress are cut in regular length. What either dress may be cut crosswise from border fabrics which is what this would be. Um, when the tie belt is omitted, the long sleeve dress is cut in mini length. Okay. Shalley crepe, embroidered cotton, ginghams, printed silks or cotton, synthetic mix, synthetic mixtures, aka blends, and then A or C embroider print or embroidered border fabrics. I do love a border print. Um, so what were they saying? Elastic here and elastic here form the square. I understood that. Elastic here forms empire waist. I understood that. Elastic here gives you the bubble sleeve. Elastic here on the long sleeve. Got it. And then they were saying something about if you leave this off then you cut it shorter. I don't know. Um, but okay. Sure. Totally. Let's see if the line drawings answer. Nope, they don't. I do kind of like this though. Do you? I don't love how they did it in like this lime green and pink, but the idea of all that wrapping with the tie belt is more interesting than just like one tied around you. Um, okay. So, bias seam tape optional. 3 yards of 3/8 inch elastic. Yeah, that's a lot. Honestly, I'm surprised it's 38. I thought it would be a quarter um inch wide. And then bias tape, which you can make. And then ribbon is what they're using for that. But you could also use fabric, obviously. um either the exact same self fabric or contrasting scrap lining fabric. Okay. The Yeah, fabric requirements are going to be kind of all over the place depending on if you cut it crosswise or cut it lengthwise. Actually, they're kind of the same. I lied. You be only in 45 inch wide fabric. Huh. No, you can make that. If you can make it in 45, you can make it in 60. All of these are 45. Why is that? Okay. So, I would eliminate I don't know a yard off of e all of these. If you get 60 inch I've seen 60inch border print fabric. I know I have. Um, so yeah, you don't need these quantities. Easily. You can take a yard off, maybe even more. Maybe get the pattern. This is so annoying, but maybe get the pattern first, lay it all out at on a 60-in fabric and see how much you actually need. And then if you need to go, if you want to go buy new fabric, use that amount. That's annoying to do. I get that. But all of these are 45 in. And then finished garment measurements. Again, the it's it's pretty roomy. I don't know that we need any of this, but this one says it has 11 in in the bust and 10 in 11 in in the hip as well. Um, even with this blousy top, 11 in feels like a lot. Did I do the math right? Let's see. Bust 42. Yes, I did the math right. Okay. Um, [laughter] that's a lot. That's a lot. Uh, what do I say? What do I say? What do I say? Um, you could easily cut that in half. You know, only 6 in of beads and that would still be a lot. Um, cuz or are they factoring it before they put the elastic in? That's why those finished garment measurements are so confusing. Like 11 is a lot. Where are they getting that number from? Obviously, some kind of machine, some kind of program, algorithm is calculating that, but where is it getting that from? That's why sometimes we just need a human being to do it. All right. Then we've got little girls baby. And then this is summer. So that's it. Those are our McCall's late summer patterns. What do we think? There were definitely some standouts to me. This one, if you're in the market for something like that, absolutely this is a great option. Um, I personally loved this. I get it's not for everybody, but I can see myself wearing that a ton. And this little number also super super cute to me. I didn't hate these three either. Um, I don't need them personally, but um, yeah, overall they did a really good job with styling, with fabric choice. This is going to be a really solid collection. And if this is the way that we're moving toward, um, I'm happy. So, let me know what you guys think in the comments section below. Are you going to be buying any of these? Did any of these go onto your wish list? Um, let me know if I brought up anything that you want to comment on. You can leave it in the comment section below. Otherwise, that's going to do it for me today. I will see you all very soon. Bye.