NEW McCall's *Late& SUMMER Patterns | Which Ones Are Actually Worth Sewing?
Watch on YouTubeVideo summary
The video provides a comprehensive review of the new McCall's "Late Summer" pattern collection, highlighting how major publishers continue to release multiple seasonal drops despite significant industry shifts. The host evaluates each design based on sizing accuracy using alpha-numeric ranges, recommended fabrics ranging from stretch ponte and denim to soft shantung crepes, and the overall cost-effectiveness including notions like zippers, snaps, and interfacing. While some patterns are praised for their retro styling and versatile fabric options such as gingham or printed silks, others face criticism regarding inflated ease measurements that seem algorithmically calculated rather than practically fitted, particularly in items claiming roominess where bust ease reaches up to eleven inches.
Several specific designs stand out during the analysis, including the Mrs. Knit Midi Skirt described as a "one-yard wonder" with hidden elastic below the natural waist, and the Unisex Balloon Fit Pants which offer a loose fit that mitigates concerns about unisex sizing for women's crotches. The collection also features vintage-inspired pieces like 1970s tops and pants with ruffles and darts, as well as sporty raincoats requiring expensive notions that could push total material costs over thirty dollars for beginners. However, the host notes potential drawbacks such as confusing line drawings in certain patterns, unnecessary lace trims adding to the price point without significant value, and fabric yardage lists provided only for 45-inch width which may not reflect actual needs when using wider fabrics or testing layouts first.
The review concludes that while some items like the Dolman Sleeve Top might be better hacked from existing patterns rather than purchased at a premium price of sixteen dollars, others offer solid styling and good fabric choices worth considering for specific wardrobes. The host emphasizes the importance of checking finished garment measurements against personal stats instead of relying solely on pattern ease numbers, which are often misleadingly large in this collection. Despite questioning certain construction details like bias tape versus ribbon requirements or spiral-cut flounces that complicate simple hacks, the overall verdict is positive for McCall's producing a solid assortment with diverse options ranging from empire waist pajamas to pullover dresses and wrap tops suitable for various skill levels and fabric preferences.
Read the full video transcript
Hi you guys. Welcome back to another
first impression video. We just got the
news that McCall's has dropped their
late summer collection.
Um, so again with all of the the changes
going on at the big five, interesting to
see that we're still doing the multiple
season drops like early summer, summer,
late summer.
We'll be interested to know if that
keeps up or not. But
for now, we do have a late summer
collection from McCall's. So, we're
going to take a look at each and every
pattern. Oh, this is interesting. All of
the cover photos
all have the McCall's branding on them
with some little like easy to sew thing
on there.
Okay. Not all of them. Is this their new
pattern cover? This gray background.
Interesting. Anyways, we're going to
take a look at each and every one of
these patterns. Um, I'll chat with you
about just some sizing issues that I see
if I see any. We'll talk about fabric.
We'll talk about fit. We'll talk about
kind of the general cost of all of these
patterns. Um, if they are going to be
expensive or not. So, let's dig in. The
first one is this Mrs. Knit midi skirt.
We have all the sizes in one envelope,
alpha numeric, extra small to 2X. We'll
talk about what that means when we look
at the back of the envelope. Slim
fitting midi length skirt is worn 1 inch
below the natural waistline. Featuring
hidden elastic for a smooth sleek look.
Skirt includes a high side front walking
slit and a lace trimmed hem for a clean
and pretty finish. Easy to follow.
Detailed step-by-step instructions blah
blah blah. Okay, so they used a stretch
ponte knit. Other fabrics would be
cotton interlock,
jersey, lightweight double knits,
stretch velvet. We do have a see the
stretch gauge thing, which where's the
stretch gauge, guys? We can't see it on
here. Um, so that's silly. I will stand
on this soap box until they start giving
us percentages of stretch here. All we
need to know is what's the percentage of
stretch? We're all shopping online. All
the online retailers are providing the
percentage of stretch for their fabrics,
so you guys can just put it right here
and make it so easy for us to shop
online while we're shopping for our
fabrics. Anyways,
we'll see if that's on the back of the
envelope. Fingers crossed. Um, but
cotton interlock and jersey, interesting
choices. Those would be pretty
lightweight, you know, kind of showing
lumps and bumps, if you will. I would go
for a more substantial knit like Ponti,
like a double knit, a sweater knit,
cable knit, maybe um a heavyweight. What
am I thinking? Rib knits would be good.
Things like that.
[snorts] All right. So,
it does look like we have a seam here to
aid with the slit. And then they just
put this trim around. I don't know. What
do you guys think of the trim? Does it
look kind of cheap? I hate that word,
but I don't know. It might be more sleek
looking if it didn't have that.
And then
is this the side seam? Yes.
Okay.
Yeah, they said semi fitted. We're
getting It's pretty fitted. Um, but I do
like the hidden elastic that does
provide a nice clean finish. And it is
sitting 1 inch below her natural waist,
so that's good.
Oh, well, would you look at this? I
think we are rebranding
the envelopes, guys. This is clean. I
will say we do not have a stretch gauge
on here. It would fit beautifully right
here. Or again, just give us the
percentages. we would be happy with that
too. Okay, so this is all a repeat from
the front. These are the notions that
you need. 1 and 1/2 in elastic and then
this lace trim. So if you left off the
lace trim and just hemmed it like
normal, you would save a lot of money.
These these flat lace trims really do
add up in cost. Um 1 and 12 inch
elastic. I don't know. That's kind I
have that in my stash usually. Um, so
that to me isn't like an additional cost
necessarily, but that might just be girl
math. All right, sizes,
body, and finished garment measurements.
How is that working? Oh, down here.
Finish back length. Cinch one and Oh, is
that all we're going to get? Oh, no.
Finished hip is up in here.
Okay. I mean, I don't hate it.
It's just different. It's new. We'll get
used to it. So
31 in 31 12 to 32 and 1/2. And we're
going to get a finished hip of 32. So
you either have 1 and 12 or half an inch
of positive E.
Semi. Yeah, I guess semifitted. I would
think fitted might be zero or negative
E. So yeah, I'll let that I'll let that
slide. I'll let that that makes sense to
me. Um, if you don't want it that
fitted, obviously size up. You'll get an
additional 2 in if you do that. Fabric
requirements.
So, 60in fabric, we're looking at 1 and
1/8 yards all the way across. Um, it
could be a one yard wonder, guys, if you
cuz they usually provide a little bit of
extra fabric. Um, if yours is 62 in,
maybe a 1 yard wonder, 62, 64, uh, 58 in
fabric, yeah, you probably need to buy
the whole one and a quarter. I don't
think you can even buy eighs, so you can
buy the one and a quarter, but I don't
know, make it a little bit shorter.
Double check the finished length from
your
one inch below your waist down to
whatever you consider to be midi length.
Um, you might be able to get away with
one yard.
I like that. I like that it doesn't take
a lot of fabric.
Okay, next we've got
pattern unisex balloon fit pants. Okay,
typically when we have the unisex
patterns and they are pants, I get a
little bit
concerned because a woman's crotch and a
man's crotch are not the same. So using
the same pattern pieces can get a little
funky when those pants like the more
fitted they get the more funky that
gets. But obviously these are very loose
fitting in the crotch. So we shouldn't
be worried about that at all. Um the
sizing is going to be again all the
alpha numeric sizes. Very loose fitting
pull-on pants designed to be worn one
inch below the waist. Feature a double
row elastic waistline casing. I
personally love that. Sid seam pockets.
Back patch pockets. Mock fly front
detail. All right, so faux fly. Um,
balloonshaped legs are created with
front pleats and controlled at the leg
hem with darts. I don't know what
controlled means. All accented with top
stitching. All right. They use an
organic cotton twill. Organic cotton
twill. All right. It isn't even like a
blend. It's just 100% or uh cotton. So
that's good. Um, broadcloth, cotton
types, denim, gabardine, linen types,
popppland, and twill.
Yeah, I mean, you have to have something
with a little bit of drape in it to be
able to handle the elastic and the
gathering that the elastic is going to
create, but you do want something that's
going to hold that leg. Um,
so I think the type of fabric, the
weight of it matters, and also the weave
of it matters. So it being a twill um
popplin weave
makes sense. Even if it's like a blend,
so a cotton rayon blend, a linen rayon
blend, something like that, you need it.
It has to be that good balance between
drape and structure. I do want to look
at this. Oh,
well, I never would have guessed based
on this. Maybe because they're so long
on her.
Yeah, you can see them there, but you're
not getting that.
You're not really even seeing that
detail at all. Obviously, that can be
left out. And you just have like, you
know, a white like pant.
Um,
but yeah, those would need to be a lot
shorter on her for us to be able to tell
what's going on there. And he's slouched
down. Let's see if we can get some
pictures of anybody. Um, oh, here's him
standing up. Okay. So yeah, when you
have like a a smaller break there with
the
the length, um you can see that it's
balloonish. I mean, it's very subtle
in the world of, you know, balloon pants
that we've been doing. What are they
called? The um oh shoot, you know which
ones I'm talking about? Barrel leg. This
is very very very subtle. Um
I need them to be like an inch maybe.
somewhere between an inch and two inches
shorter on her.
It makes me wonder, are they too big and
they fell down? Cuz this is her
waistline. So, I'm wondering
if she pulled them up a little bit.
Right? You can see where her natural
waist is like right here where this
shirt is ending. So, if we had somewhere
in between that for her um for the rise,
maybe that would be a little bit better
on the the gathering. Yeah, you can see
on him too, it is a little bit long. So,
we're going to double check the inseam
length for sure. Um the back looks as
you'd expect the back to look of a
gathered um elastic waist pant. Not not
as diapery as I've seen. Um, but yeah, I
think that the curve looks nice. It's
curving in where you'd expect it to. So,
yeah, you can definitely tell this is
more of a cotton twill now that we're
getting closer up pictures. You can see
how it's not not super drapey. It's got
a little bit of crispness to it. You can
see that kind of through here.
Okay. So,
all you need for this is 3/4 inch
elastic. Um, you do need quite a bit of
it because you're doing the two rows
that I love the two rows. I love a
substantial elastic waist. I like it for
it to have some heft to it. That might
be a personal thing to me, but um, okay.
And then the width of each leg and the
finished side,
not the inseam.
Interesting choice there. We're also
getting no finished garment
measurements. It kind of makes sense
because it is such a loose- fitting
garment and then the elastic is going to
be what um nips you in at the waist. So
yeah, we don't technically have to know.
I personally would like to know the hip
just cuz I'd like to
gauge how much extra fabric is going to
be at my hip, but I understand I guess
why they don't provide that question
mark. [laughter]
Um, okay. Fabric requirements. All of
those fabrics they mentioned are going
to be 60 inish.
Three yards. Yeah, you need a little bit
of it to um because they're so wide. Um
there it is a lot of fabric.
Interfacing. I think that's just for the
waistband.
5/8 of a yard. Okay. All right.
It helps that there's not a ton of
notions with that. Um, so you can spend
a little bit more on fabric maybe.
All right, here we have a swing dress.
Sizing is going to be wow. Alpha numeric
sizing again. That's s surprising. Above
knee swing dress features short sleeves,
pointed collar, easy to sew placket with
front buttons, back yolk, side seam
pockets, front and back plates help
control the fullness while adding a
touch of tailoring.
I don't even see front and back, please.
We'll look at the line drawing. Um, they
used a cotton shirting, so a nice crisp
cotton shirting. Uh, but you could also
use Yes. Chamé, cotton, and cotton
blends for sure. Denim.
Denim. Yes. If it's not a chamé denim,
the lighter weight denim the better. PK,
that's a good choice. linen and linen
blends, rayon and viscous blends. The
more rayon that's in it, the more drapey
it'll be, the more it'll fall in on your
body, stable jersey knits, tensel denim,
so like a rayon denim blend. It's
interesting they called that out
separately because they have denim and
they have rayon. So I don't know. Um,
but what did they call them? Pleat. Oh,
front and back pleat. So, this is the
back pleet. This is the front pleet
underneath this little placket. Okay.
Okay. I mean, cute little shirt dress.
Cute little take on a shirt dress for
sure.
Um, you do have the button placket.
Beautifully sewn on their end. It does
not
have a stand.
It's just a rollover collar, I think.
So, that's a little bit easier to sew.
The shoulder length
is
on her a little bit long. Um, you can
see how this is coming out like this and
then this pokes out. It makes me think
that this might not be
full enough,
but if we were to pull this up onto her
shoulder, would all of this straighten
out to make a line like this? I don't
know. M probably. Probably. It's not the
end of the world. Again, if I saw her in
the streets, I wouldn't be like, "Girl,
you're shoulder length." [laughter]
I would never say that. Um, but you can
see even whenever she's standing up
perfectly straight. Yeah. on this end.
You can really see that's the end of her
shoulder. So, I want to pull this up a
little bit on top of her shoulder to
make um this in here fit within the
socket of her shoulder.
Oh, look at the side view. Well, that's
adorable.
That
should be the front picture. I'm just
saying.
um with that shirting. It's just, you
know, standing so full
and the cotton's I mean the collar's
like kind of popped. That's a really
cute picture.
Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. For sure. Given that
retro look to it. Did we get some top
stitching here? Yeah, a little bit, I
think. Um and then just like a little
baby hems everywhere. This is cute,
guys. This is really cute. Um,
yeah, I think this one's going to do
really well for them. Easy to sew, too.
I mean, the button placket probably
brings it to intermediate or very
confident beginner. Um, this little
finishing that bottom of that is kind of
hard. So is the collar. Um, so maybe an
intermediate. Uh, but I think it'll
still do well for them. Okay. All you
need is interfacing and six 3/8 in
buttons. So, those little buttons. Um,
sure you can go down to quarter or up to
a half. I bet that would be fine. You
would not barely notice. All right. Are
we going to get any finished? Okay.
Finished bust line. Perfect. It is going
to be roomy, but this will, again, like
I was saying about the hip measurements
of the pants, it will help you gauge how
oversized this is going to be through
the body. I would probably also measure
against the shoulder length
um and upper bust. I would check all of
those or maybe even just base it off of
your upper bust. So if your finished
bust is 39 but your upper bust is 37,
you'd make the smaller one
[snorts] cuz it is going to be so roomy
through here, but you want it to be kind
of fitted from here up.
Yeah. All right. And then obviously
check the length so that you're not
wasting any fabric whenever you go to
cut it out. And then fabric requirements
up to 2 and 5/8.
So you could probably squeeze it out of
2 and 1/2. Um especially if you're
shorter. I feel like they
base theirs off of 56. Let me double
check. Um
yeah, five. I hate this. About 5'5 to
5'6. Okay, whatever. Um, so that's what
those are based off of. So if you're
shorter than that, you can definitely
adjust the length.
Okay, now we have this pajama set, which
if you ask me, especially this heat wave
we've been having, I'd be wearing this
out. I don't know if you guys know Paige
Shaorbo.
She was on a reality TV show called
Summerhouse. She has a very popular
podcast called Giggly Squad. She started
her own pajama line called Daphne and
they produce a lot of stuff like this.
And she does a really good job of
showing how it's yes, pajamas, but you
can also style it to be worn out of the
house. And this is definitely reminding
me of that. Um, let me know if there's
any gigglers watching. Um, okay. again
with the alpha numeric sizing. That's I
can't believe there's this many of
those. Pull over baby doll top features
elastic empire waistline with a ruffle.
Are they calling this a ruffle?
Okay. V-neckline with lace trim and
narrow shoulder straps that tie into
bows at the back. Well, that's cute.
That's super cute. Um
bows at the back. Pull on shorts are
gathered and flared.
I like the flare. I like the flare.
Sitting one inch below the waist with a
wide elastic band. They used a cotton
stripe. You can also use chamé
chararmmuse
if you wanted like a silky. There's
silky types here. Cotton lawn. Yeah, for
sure. Crinkled gauze. Mhm. Oh, you could
even go knit with a jersey,
lightweight cotton, lightweight linens,
and then we already said silky types.
Okay.
So, it really is a sweetheart neckline
neckline
[snorts]
with elastic underbust.
I can't I now I'm They're saying it's a
ruffle and I do feel like
there's the elastic of it all, but this
is also ruffled attached to the elastic.
Is that even possible? I don't think
there's a single dart. Let me see.
Yeah. So, I mean, do you need to buy
this pattern? That's up to you and what
you have in your stash. Could you find
something that looks like this and add
elastic to it? Probably. I will say the
thing that this has going for it is the
volume. So, if you are going to make
this this all, how am I going to say
this? The elastic, yes, is pulling it
in, but underneath the elastic part is
very, very full.
Same thing with the pant. like you have
the elastic, but what's beyond the
elastic is very very full, which is
different than what we usually see with
pull- on pajama shorts. Um,
so I don't know.
Yeah, there. That's freaking cute.
Adorable.
And then these tie. Now, I think that is
this a loop in the back?
Let's see.
Still can't tell. Um, otherwise it's
like, yeah, it's just bows in the back
because you tied them down here. You
could tie them up here. You could tie
them in the front. Um, or just leave
them off altogether. Does seem kind of
weird to be sleeping in that. But, you
know, yeah, definitely no loop. That's
just where they tied them. But dang, if
that's not This is one of those times
when the pattern design, the fabric that
they chose, I mean, hate to say it, even
the model and her cute little baby face
like porcelain doll type, the hair, the
styling, everything kind of just works.
And that's that's when you get a sellout
pattern. So, good for them. Happy to see
it.
Okay, notions. uh package of half inch
wide singlefold bias tape.
I probably make my own because the bias
tape you buy is very crispy depending on
the fabric that you're using. Um but I
kind of enjoy making my own too. 1 and
38 yard of 1/4 in elastic
and also 3/8 in elastic.
1 in flat lace trim which you could
leave off. Again, the the trimmings is
where we start to get expensive. Um, and
then the short also needs 1 and 1/2 inch
elastic. So, we have
Huh. Why do we have a/4 inch elastic and
3/8
inch elastic? Oh, okay. Okay. Wait,
wait, wait. Quarterinch elastic 38 yard
of 1 in flat lace trim. Okay. So, you
don't need a ton of flat lace trim.
That's promising. Um,
I'm pretty sure it is just top stitched
on.
So, I bet you could go to the thrift
store and find something that has a
little bit of flat lace trim. Even if
it's not exactly 1 in, you could find
something there. Or even like a ribbon
you could use. So, yeah, that's not
that's not that bad. Um, quarterinch
elastic, 1 and 1/2 in elastic. If you're
not making elastic things a lot, yeah,
you wouldn't have that on hand. But I do
feel like it can. It's affordable on on
the Z. Is that what we're calling it?
Um,
that's Amazon. [laughter]
Okay. Um, let's see. Finished bust is
all we're going to get for this. And it
it is roomy. 7 in of room in the bust.
Did we feel like that's what she had?
M
I mean I'm not seeing a whole lot of
extra through here.
I'm certainly not seeing 7 in.
So that's a little bit concerning
actually now that I'm thinking of it.
Is it 7 in be? It can't be before the
elastic. That doesn't make any sense.
This feels like a lot now that I'm
looking at the pictures. It should be
closer to like two, maybe three.
So, seven feels like a lot.
Yeah, I'd double check that for sure.
Um, and then the width of the leg,
that's going to be your thigh opening
basically. I guess you could check that.
I do feel like it's pretty roomy. Even
for those of us that have like athletic
thighs, I think we would probably be
fine. Okay, so they're separating out
the shorts and the top when it comes to
fabric requirements.
The top is going to be 1 and 1/4 yards.
You could probably get that into a yard.
And then the shorts are going to be 1 to
1 and 3/8 depending on your size.
Yeah, if the top is really oversized and
and those finished garment measurements
are correct. Yeah, this is going to be a
one yard wonder for sure.
And then the shorts looked fine in
length and they're not giving us much in
terms of finished garment measurements
anyways. So yeah, you might be able to
eat this out of like two and a half if
you were to sew them all out of the same
fabric. But
yeah, this is adorable. I need a sale.
Um cuz I'm not paying $16 for that. So
sorry. Not sorry. [laughter] Okay. Next
we have dolman sleeve top. All right. Um
alpha numeric sizing again.
Strange. Is that their way of getting
around people complaining about sizing?
I don't know. Okay. Hip length pullover
top with short dolman sleeves. Features
a batau front neckline. V back side
rouching. I like that. Created by
elastic casings at the side seam. Cinch
in the waist for even more shaping with
narrow back ties.
Yeah. Okay. So, they it's this
no batau front. So, they have this
swapped. This is the front and this is
the back. V back. It says right here.
Okay. So, this is just a very wide batau
that they're dipping off of her
shoulder.
Gosh, I don't know. I think those of us
that know how to construct the side
seams like this.
You definitely don't need a $16 pattern
to make this. Um,
you could probably figure out how to
make this on your own.
It's cute and I thankful for the idea,
but yeah, I don't know if I need I don't
know if I even need a pattern for this.
You can see the shape of it right here.
So, you're really just making like a
Gosh, I'm sure you have a dolman sleeved
something. Even if it has a sleeve
attached to here, just leave that off.
And you're going to do it looks like a
one inch facing. And then you're going
to do the elastic on the sides.
Super super easy.
Yeah, interesting outfit. All right.
And then there's the back tie. Uh, yeah.
I don't know that we need that. I don't
feel like it's doing that much to cinch
in at her waist. If we didn't have the
rushing probably, but Oh, did we talk
about fabric? No. What did they use?
Some kind of cotton? Yeah, stretch
cotton popppllin.
Stretch cotton popppllin on top of that.
So, this is a pretty structured fabric.
Yeah. What else do they recommend?
Broadcloth. Shalley is going to be
really drapey.
Still fine, but kind of, you know,
drapey,
borderline silky. Chamé is going to have
some structure to it. Sure. Moose is
going to be drapey. Cotton types. Crepe
to sheen. Jersey. This is what I would
probably make it in. Linens and linen
blends. Silky types. Yeah, you really
can make this out of just about
anything. You don't want to go too heavy
weight, but you can definitely go pretty
structured. The more structured it is,
the more that these will stand open, the
more that this will stand out. Um, and
it can't take that much fabric. Where
are we?
Uh, two yards. Surprising. The extra
small is 1 and a4 and the 2X is uh 2
yards. Maybe because it's the both of
them are cut on the fold. Yeah. Yeah.
Yeah. Yeah. So, if your fabric when you
fold both salvages in to meet at the
middle, if your pattern pieces don't fit
on both of those folds, then yeah, it
would take more fabric. But could you
just cut the back on the fold on with a
seam? Maybe.
Maybe.
Yeah, you uh you could probably get away
with
well it depends on how wide your fabric
is. Maybe try and find a fabric that's
at that like 64 in
place or use something from the thrift
store that's like a sheet or a curtain
or something and you get tons of width
with that. Um okay, you do need a little
bit of interfacing probably for that
facing
and then finished bust. They're giving
us 4 in. That makes sense with what I'm
seeing here. It is pretty roomy through
here. Where's the picture where she has
it up on her shoulders? Yeah, you can
see there. Pretty roomy. So, yeah, that
makes sense. Like, it's weird that this
has 4 in of ease and the little
spaghetti tank top had seven. Can you
see now why that doesn't make sense in
terms of how they were fitting her?
Yeah. Okay. Okay. What is next?
We have
Oh, we don't do the girls patterns on
these videos because I don't really know
how to talk about fit. Um, so we skip
over
the girls patterns. And here we go. Mrs.
Knit pajamas. How stinking cute is that?
Again, alpha numeric sizing. All the
sizes in one. Knit semi-fitted pullover
top. features round neck lines, long or
short sleeves, ribbon bow accents, pull
on semi-fitted shorts and pants feature
mockfly fronts, button front trim, rain
ribbon bow accents, contrast elastic
waistline casing. The shorts have
slightly curved hems and the widele
pants have sidseam pockets.
Okay, cute. Adorable. I would live in
this around the house.
shorts or pants to be honest with you.
Um they used a cotton spandex jersey,
cotton spandex,
cotton jersey. Okay. Um moderate stretch
knits like bamboo would be a dream.
Little bit pricey but then cotton jersey
interlock it modal rib knit. Yeah, I was
thinking pointel
classic. Um
what's waffle? wafflenit classic. Um,
yeah.
Yeah, you could find some really, really
cute, sweet
sleep fabrics for this. The lighter
weight they are though, the harder they
are to sew. So, maybe that's why they
used a jersey. Super easy to sew jersey.
[snorts] Um, based on the fit of this on
her, can we see this? And we can see
this, right? That means there's not
enough space going across here, her
upper bust, and that's why like the the
pulls will point to where the problem
is. Okay? So, the problem actually isn't
her bicep at all. It's what's happening
through here. So, she needs just the
littlest most added on to the shoulder
length here. Maybe another whatever that
is, half an inch, and then blended down.
You can even see there's a lot of extra
fabric through here. So, it's just a
really weirdly shaped arm situation. Um,
okay. Cute. And then this is kind of
cropped. You do have this contrast band.
And then, oh, you had the little buttons
on it, too.
That's adorable.
That's adorable. Um, for those of us
with a booty, I'm going to get the back.
We're probably going to want to do,
yeah, a full
b full seat adjustment just to make sure
there's enough room for it to go up and
over our bums and not having a bottom of
our butt cheeks hanging out. But that's
an alteration I'm willing to play around
with to get it right cuz these are so
cute and I know I just know that I would
love wearing them. Um, but yeah, other
than that, fitwise looks fine. It looks
actually fine through the back. Um,
these things happening here.
Well, I don't know. Now that I'm looking
at it, it does look like maybe it is a
bicep issue.
And it's not like she has a huge bicep.
My gosh. So, maybe it's a combination of
both. We need a little bit more room
through the bicep and a little bit more
across the front.
Okay.
Oh, we're back to the old now. Can you
see what we used to deal with and how
much cleaner the other one is?
Um, certainly easier to read. That's for
sure. My eyeballs. 3/4
3/8 of a yard of 3/8 inch ribbon. Okay,
I'm sure you can use quarter inch
ribbon, which is maybe more common. Also
for the pants and shorts, two little
buttons
and then 1 in elastic.
And then body measurements, finished
garment measurements, bust and waist of
the top and pants.
No, that can't be true.
The bust is 33 in. So, we're getting
roughly 3 in of ease there.
Let's double check.
I don't know that I'm seeing three
inches there.
And because it is a
um knit, you could definitely go down
and
utilize some of the stretch of the
fabric. 3 in of positive ease for a knit
garment does feel like a lot. Um, so
don't be afraid to size down on the top,
but maybe double checking those spots
that I talked about.
Yeah.
H.
And then the waist of the top is
supposedly
5 in of ease,
but so is the short, but the short has
the elastic, so that's
Yeah, I guess that makes sense.
the waist on the pant. This including B
here.
Oh, AB. My bad. Okay, those are the
tops. Okay. Okay, that makes a lot more
sense. I didn't realize they separated
the tops into short sleeve and long
sleeve. Okay, I got you now. I got you
now. So, yeah, 5 in at the waist for the
top. I think makes sense.
It is kind of boxy,
I do think. Let's look at this. This
might help. Yeah, if this is straight up
and down, then that also means that
waist measurement is going to be what
the hip measurement is. And when we look
at that,
that would be hip is 32
and 28. So there would be well, it's not
the full hip though because it doesn't
go all the way down. somewhere around
your high hip area, you would measure
against this um finished waist
measurement as well because it is just a
square. I don't think it's flaring out
at all. Um
so again, that's why I would want it to
fit through here and then if it's a
little bit tight and stretched across my
bust, that would be fine. Especially if
you're using some of these super
stretchy knits, like bamboo is really
stretchy. Uh, jersey not so much. Um,
modal definitely is. Ity definitely is.
So, if you're using a super stretchy
knit, don't be afraid to have it fully
stretch across your bust there and fit
through the waist and hip kind of loose.
All right, men's wear. We're going to
skip. We're going to skip. Um, here we
have a unisex parka hooded jacket.
[snorts]
All the sizes are in one. That must be
what we're doing now.
I mean, I guess it does certainly force
people to
um look at the size charts and not just
assume, oh, I'm a 12 in the stores. So,
I guess maybe that makes sense. Front
zipped hooded jacket featuring front
flap pockets and side seam pockets for
convenient storage. That's an
interesting word to use. along with
articulated sleeves for easy movement.
Corded waist creates a snug adjustable
fit
with elasticated cuffs and adjustable
straps finish with back rain flap. They
used a riptop in gold for the woman. You
can also use cotton blends, lightweight
denim, lightweight wool, linen blends,
riptop nylon, and ponty.
>> [laughter]
>> I don't know about any of that. Um,
yeah, the rib stop that makes sense. You
could probably do it out of a u like a
waxed cotton I would see showing up here
or a laminated cotton I would see
showing up here.
I don't know that I would make it out of
any of these other things. A lightweight
wool. I don't know. That feels weird,
right? I mean, it's kind of sporty,
but let's here. Look at this.
Yeah, this is going to show us much more
easy, much easier.
You have a yolk. This is the rain flap.
So, it's like the yolk but like with a
flap on it. You have this is a side seam
or not a side seam. This is a seam here,
but it also has like either pleated and
it comes together and there like you can
there's like a you know space there or
is that where the pocket is? But you
also have these pockets. This must be
the articulated sleeve they're talking
about when you have like a dart on your
elbow. And then elastic. And then the
cording here. You have cording up here.
Hidden button placket. I mean, it is a
really welldesigned
kind of um
raincoat anorak type of deal.
I'm still trying to see what's happening
here in that diagonal seam. It might
just be a flap again.
Oh, okay. You know what? This is a silly
looking picture, but I do appreciate
them showing us the shape of the hood
because so many times you get a hood
that is the opening is so big that when
the wind blows, it's just like there no
point in having a hood. It just blows it
away. So, I do appreciate that. This
curved hem is nice.
I mean, there's a lot of really great
features here. Here's the side seam
pocket. So, this must just be a flap. I
don't know the point of it. I don't know
the reason why you'd need it, but
there's the back. There's the back. I
don't know, guys. This is cute.
When you just I mean, I don't love her
school bus yellow version. I don't
really love his blue version either. I
don't know what color I would want or if
there is a print that I would rather
have, but design-wise, it's giving all
that it needs to give. It's all that you
would ever need for a rain coat type of
sporty thing. Um, let's see. Oh, this is
where it's going to get really pricey,
though. So, one way separating zipper,
5/8 of a yard of 1 and 1/4 in elastic,
two single hole barrel stops, so cord
stops.
Two double hole barrel stops. So, a
single hole and a double hole. My gosh.
Three yards of elastic cording. Five 5/8
in snaps. Six eyelets with a/4 in
opening. and double fold bias tape.
So, I have a lot of this because I have
made interacts and things like this
before, but if you haven't and you're
buying all this for the first time, this
is easily going to be $30
easily. Um, so keep that in mind for
sure. We got a chest measurement,
finished chest measurement, so we've got
7 in. That makes sense. It is going to
be roomy for sure. interfacing. You need
almost a Yeah. 3/4 of a yard of
interfacing.
I lie. You need two and a/4 yards of
interfacing. Is the whole thing
interfaced
but only partially lined?
That's strange.
What could be interfaced if not the
whole thing? Cuz this is 3 and 5/8. So a
extra yard and a half of main fabric.
than your interfacing. I don't love the
idea of interfacing being exposed. That
feels really strange. The lining
must just be for the hood.
[snorts] Maybe the pocket bags.
I can see it's interfacing things like
the
pocket here.
Maybe this thing.
I don't know. I'd probably get a hold of
the pattern before I started going off
buying that much interfacing.
But yardage wise, in addition to all of
these notions,
yeah, up to just about four yards of
fabric if you're making the 2X, like the
largest size, but even the smallest size
is a little bit more than three. Riptop
is not super expensive though. Um, you
can find it pretty readily available
under $10 a yard, I would think. But if
you start getting into waxed cotton,
laminated cotton, yeah, that can get a
little bit pricey.
Yeah. I wish they showed us Are they Did
they ever show us the inside? Did
anybody ever open theirs up? They
usually don't.
Yeah. In fact, they kept them all zipped
up the whole time, too.
I don't know. Well, I might would skip
the interfacing on the if it's on the
body or the sleeve anywhere for sure.
I'm skipping that.
Okay. Now, we have this 1970s top pant
and skirt.
Vintage McCall's 1970s top pants and
skirt sewing pattern. This top features
elastic in their ruffle and waistline
casings and may include tie
shoulder straps. pants or pants or skirt
have a left side zipper. Love that. Um,
suggestions are going to be shalleyally
crepe
satin back crepe aka crepe back satin
silk synthetic foolard. That is
something I've I've never seen that
Sarra synthetic jersey and the pants or
skirt can also be
or the pants and skirt can only be
shalley crepe lightweight wool wool
synthetic double knits.
The skirt can also be in velvet. Wow,
that's confusing. I like that they give
so many options. I like that they break
out the top and the pants as being two
separate
fabric suggestions.
Um,
but yeah, it's just it can get kind of
confusing reading all of that. So, we
aren't going to get this on a model, I
don't think, but you do have this like
cutie little top with this ruffle,
a little elastic waistband that you can
probably leave off, and then an elastic
waistband on the pant. No, the pant is
fitted.
I wonder if there's
just a facing or is there elastic in
there? This is cute. I do like how
A and B, B being
eight darts
versus the four. What else would be the
difference?
It doesn't say anything really about
that. Okay.
Um,
oh, that's the skirt supposedly.
Oh. Oh my gosh. So, this is the front of
the skirt, back of the skirt. Front of
the pant, back of the pant. Wow. They
really just did not pay attention to
these line drawings at all. No wonder
it's so confusing for people. Okay, so
there's the skirt.
All right, that's all we're going to get
on pictures.
Um,
so 2 and 1/2 yards of elastic, 5/8 inch
elastic. This is all for the top. One
package of single fold bias tape, which
again I just make my own. Pants and
skirt, a 7-in zipper,
hook and eye,
gro grain ribbon binding or stretch
lace. So that's how they're finishing
the waistband.
Love it actually.
That's a real This is a really It's one
of those like hidden in here is some
really great design. Um
yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Um let's
see. Finished
skirt and pant waist, you're going to
get half an inch. So, not a ton there,
but usually it's only half an inch to 1
in is really all you want in a pant like
that. And then the hip of the pant and
skirt, you're going to have three two
and a half inches of ease there. The
[snorts] top is kind of negligible, I
think, because it's so so much elastic
is holding everything together, and the
the body of it is loose. The hip is
loose. The elastic is what handles the
waist. So, another really good one. I
think here. I don't know that it will
sell well because I don't know how well
the illustrated ones do, but I see the
value in this one for sure.
For sure.
Did that one have Did we look at the
sizing on that? This one. Okay, finally
one with actual sizes. We have 8 to 16
and 18 to 26.
Yeah, a little annoying because I'm this
on the top and this on the bottoms. Like
a top and pants. Pants will be down
here. Top will be up here. But
say lovey.
Say lovey. Story of my life. Okay, we
have a Mrs. dress in two lengths.
Thanksgiving night gown. All the sizes
are in one, but we're missing the 2XL on
this. Um, dress A and B featured a flare
collar, more like a ruffle, more like a
honestly a flounce, and neck binding.
Dress C and D include a lower ruffle.
Armhole binding. Neck binding extensions
that tie at shoulders.
A and C
have drawring and high-waisted casing. B
and D feature a tie belt. Okay. soft
fabrics like shalley cotton blends,
crepeback satin, crepe toeen,
lightweight cotton, sarra, synthetic
crepe, which is polyester, polyester,
jersey. Okay,
I'm pretty sure you can use a cotton
jersey. Maybe they're talking about like
ITY in that regard.
Um,
use with nap yardages and layouts for
pile shaded or one-way design fabrics.
Shouldn't we always be doing that?
Okay. Well, okay. Thank you for
reminding us, I guess. Um, yeah, cute
little sundress. This one was giving.
Maybe it's the empire waist with the bow
made it feel a little bit night gowny.
But yeah, it's just a cute little
sundress.
Honestly,
this one at least you could just use the
other pajama pattern.
It fits this.
It's just lengthen it and then you add a
flounce to the bottom. This is a little
bit more complicated. This little
flouncy
thing cuz the flounce is cut like a
whatever spiral. So, that's a little bit
more challenging. But this, if you only
like this one, just go buy that other
one and then you also get shorts with
it.
There she is. Okay. Yes.
Uhhuh.
All right.
So, seam binding optional
single fold bias tape. Again, probably
should be making your own.
And finished measurements. We get a bust
measurement of A and B.
bust measurement of C and D. There's a
half inch difference between the two of
those. So roughly 6 in about
again that feels like a lot. A lot of
them like 6 in there to me. Maybe three
maybe. Um
and then the length and the lower dress.
Yeah, I'm not entirely sure you really
need to worry about the bust measurement
either. or the waist is done with
elastic or the tie belt. So yeah, go off
of upper bust, but double check the
finished measurement because
whatever that was, 6 in is still a lot.
That would No, it's not 6 in. You should
be going like 2, three, something along
those lines on the bust.
Okay, now we have
Okay, now we have this um 1970s
Mrs. and Miss Petite top pants and
shorts.
I fear those shorts are going to be
really cute. 8 to 16, 18 to 26 on the
size range. Pretty inclusive there. I
think we're only missing four and six.
Is there a 28? Maybe. Um, vintage
McCall's tops, pants, shorts, sewing
pattern, front top, front wrap top
features self tie closing at front and
are available in sleeveless with
shoulder frills or bellshaped sleeves.
So, these two tops are the same. You
either get this like ruffle sleeve or
this bell sleeve.
Pants and shorts have flared legs,
zipper closing.
Okay. For the top, pants and shorts.
Shalley cotton knits, lightweight
cotton, sarra, synthetic crepe,
synthetic jersey lining fabric,
lightweight, fusible. Okay.
All right. So, very similar to the other
pants that I really liked, the ones that
came with the pants and the skirt,
except those had
darts in the front. Um, yeah, darts in
the front and then four darts across the
back. That's why I liked those better
than these. Other than that, the only
difference is this has a slight flare to
it. Um, so if it were me, I'd be
choosing the other pattern that came
with the pants and the skirt. Um, this
top again, you probably have a crossover
bodice like this. It might be attached
to a skirt and be a dress, but you just
leave the skirt off, create a long tie
[snorts] for the waistband, you know,
extend it beyond, and then you tie it
into a bow, and then you have this. So,
this isn't really anything that you
probably don't already have or can't
hack into. And these pants, I like the
other ones better because of all the
darts.
So, then what else did they give us
here? Oh, all of this. So, three snaps
for the top to keep it closed.
One and a half yards of rick rack for B.
Where was the rick rack? Um
7/8 of yard of of ruffled trim. Again,
this is getting really expensive. One
and a half yards of stretch lace. Is
that what's making up the little sleeve
on be? It's not fabric. It's all of this
stuff. Um, the shorts and pants have a
7-in zipper, hook and eye, 5/8 inch gro
grain ribbon, seam binding, so fold
over. Okay, so same finish on the
waistband as um the other pants. This
stuff here, that must be what is making
up all that trimming is what's creating
the sleeve. So, I don't know. There got
to be a cheaper way to do that, too.
Okay, another vintage. This one's 60s
dress with sleeve variations.
We have 8 to 16, 18 to 26 on the size
range. Pullover dress with long or short
raglin sleeves.
Dress is gathered above the waistline by
elastic encasing. Upper edge of the
dress and sleeves gathered by elastic
encasings form deep squared neckline.
The lower edge is of either sleeve are
gathered by elastic encasings. Okay.
Long sleeved dress featuring ribbon tie
belt that wraps around the front and
back and the short sleeved dress are cut
in regular length. What either dress may
be cut crosswise from border fabrics
which is what this would be. Um, when
the tie belt is omitted, the long sleeve
dress is cut in mini length.
Okay. Shalley crepe, embroidered cotton,
ginghams, printed silks or cotton,
synthetic mix, synthetic mixtures,
aka blends, and then A or C embroider
print or embroidered border fabrics. I
do love a border print. Um, so what were
they saying? Elastic here and elastic
here form the square. I understood that.
Elastic here forms empire waist. I
understood that. Elastic here gives you
the bubble sleeve. Elastic here on the
long sleeve. Got it. And then they were
saying something about if you leave this
off
then you cut it shorter.
I don't know. Um, but okay. Sure.
Totally.
Let's see if the line drawings answer.
Nope, they don't. I do kind of like this
though. Do you? I don't love how they
did it in like this lime green and pink,
but
the idea of all that wrapping with the
tie belt is more interesting than just
like one tied around you. Um, okay. So,
bias seam tape optional. 3 yards of 3/8
inch elastic. Yeah, that's a lot.
Honestly, I'm surprised it's 38. I
thought it would be a quarter um inch
wide.
And then bias tape, which you can make.
And then ribbon is what they're using
for that. But you could also use fabric,
obviously.
um either the exact same self fabric or
contrasting scrap lining fabric. Okay.
The
Yeah, fabric requirements are going to
be kind of all over the place depending
on if you cut it crosswise or cut it
lengthwise.
Actually, they're kind of the same. I
lied. You be
only in 45 inch wide fabric. Huh.
No, you can make that. If you can make
it in 45, you can make it in 60. All of
these are 45.
Why is that?
Okay. So, I would eliminate I don't know
a yard off of e all of these. If you get
60 inch I've seen 60inch border print
fabric. I know I have. Um, so yeah, you
don't need these quantities. Easily. You
can take a yard off, maybe even more.
Maybe get the pattern. This is so
annoying, but maybe get the pattern
first, lay it all out at on a 60-in
fabric and see how much you actually
need. And then if you need to go, if you
want to go buy new fabric, use that
amount. That's annoying to do. I get
that. But all of these are 45 in.
And then finished garment measurements.
Again, the it's it's pretty roomy. I
don't know that we need any of this, but
this one says it has 11 in in the bust
and 10 in 11 in in the hip as well. Um,
even with this blousy
top, 11 in feels like a lot. Did I do
the math right?
Let's see. Bust 42. Yes, I did the math
right. Okay. Um,
[laughter]
that's a lot. That's a lot. Uh, what do
I say? What do I say?
What do I say? Um, you could easily cut
that in half.
You know, only 6 in of beads and that
would still be a lot. Um,
cuz
or are they factoring it before they put
the elastic in? That's why those
finished garment measurements are so
confusing. Like 11 is a lot. Where are
they getting that number from?
Obviously, some kind of machine, some
kind of program, algorithm is
calculating that, but where is it
getting that from? That's why sometimes
we just need a human being to do it.
All right. Then we've got little girls
baby. And then this is summer. So that's
it. Those are our McCall's
late summer patterns. What do we think?
There were definitely some standouts to
me. This one, if you're in the market
for something like that, absolutely this
is a great option. Um, I personally
loved this. I get it's not for
everybody, but I can see myself wearing
that a ton. And this little number also
super super cute to me. I didn't hate
these three either. Um, I don't need
them personally, but
um, yeah, overall they did a really good
job with styling, with fabric choice.
This is going to be a really solid
collection. And if this is the way that
we're moving toward,
um, I'm happy. So, let me know what you
guys think in the comments section
below. Are you going to be buying any of
these? Did any of these go onto your
wish list? Um, let me know if I brought
up anything that you want to comment on.
You can leave it in the comment section
below. Otherwise, that's going to do it
for me today. I will see you all very
soon. Bye.