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New HVAC System Can’t Keep Up? Here’s Why!

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The video addresses significant performance issues with a newly installed HVAC system in a recently remodeled building, where the equipment struggles to maintain proper cooling and air quality during warmer weather. The technician identifies that the primary culprit is a lack of adequate makeup air; the existing exhaust fans are pulling too much conditioned air out of the space without sufficient fresh air being brought back in to replace it. This imbalance causes the system to work inefficiently, leading to poor temperature control and potential issues when winter arrives. To resolve this, the technician begins by inspecting the physical setup, noting that the makeup air damper was incorrectly strapped shut and the fan settings were left at maximum speed, which exacerbated the airflow problems. A substantial portion of the troubleshooting involves recalibrating the system's digital controls and replacing faulty sensors. The technician discovers that the unit's enthalpy sensor is defective and provides erroneous readings, preventing the economizer from functioning correctly. After removing the broken sensor, he tests a spare one from a geothermal chiller to ensure it has the correct negative temperature coefficient before installing it. He also adjusts various set points within the control panel, lowering the operational shut-off temperatures and increasing fan speeds to improve air circulation. Additionally, he changes the default password for security and uses specialized tools like a smoke test and static pressure gauges to verify that the dampers are actuating properly and that airflow is being restored to acceptable levels. The final adjustments focus on optimizing the system's operation to prevent future failures during extreme temperatures. The technician reduces the temperature differential settings from two degrees to one degree to ensure the system runs more consistently without missing its target temperatures, a common issue with poorly designed commercial units. He also modifies the fan speed curves and static pressure readings to balance the load across multiple mini-split units in the building. By fine-tuning these parameters, he ensures that the system can effectively cool the space while managing moisture levels, ultimately creating a more stable environment that avoids the risks of freezing pipes or overheating when outdoor conditions change.
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This video is brought to you in part by True Tech Tools. Quality tools, essential support. >> Okay, we obviously got an issue here with this draft hood. We're not bringing in any supply. I guess the way this thing's set up here is it doesn't uh have a actual power blower bringing in makeup air. We already did a test here with the smoke to kind of see how well it's doing. Kind of see. Yeah, grabbed it, but it's okay. Let's take a check back here at this door. It's not too bad there. Okay, here's the bathroom. So, you can see we have an exhaust vent up there. It's getting it. It's probably more than these two, but I can hear it pulling. So, one of the first things I wanted to check with the makeup air, which I see we got the good old seaman's control there, which I do have the stick for it uh to now program it a little quicker and easier cuz I got like 78 to do. And the other unit way over there, same ordeal. Nothing's going on with that. So, we're going to need to check that. We need to make sure that everything's cooling correctly. frame rate recording is why it looks so slow. So, uh, but yeah, they remodeled this building completely and everything's pretty much within a year or two old. So, it's not doing very good when it's warm out. That's what's going on with this. Okay, so here's the gateway. Don't need it, but it sure makes it a little easier. Takes a little bit to get it working the way it should. Took the connectivity took a little bit. So, let's see what we can do with this thing. One of the first things I wanted to do, especially just kind of feeling around to see how cold that is. Want to know what my air flow is. Want to know if my belts are loose, if there is belts, nice and hard on it. Yeah, I can just about guarantee you that this probably was not set correctly. So, since we know it's a true blue or whatever they call it, let's get a probes out. Let's check static pressure. Make sure that's set right. Then we'll start adjusting the uh the damper on it. The only thing bad about this design is I can't really uh block it off very well and actually work on it. Luckily, it's not very cold out here. So, it'll be all right. Let's go ahead and just take a look at it. See what we got. I had to loosen this up cuz they strapped it up like that so that you can't get through. I don't know why they wouldn't have taken it to the ground, but just judging by the big labels there that we don't use. We probably didn't do the power. Oh, they got it on its highest speed. Yeah, they've got it on C and they got it all the way up to there. And then we got an issue here with this temperature. Something's probably not set right up on it either. So, we're going to need to start doing something with this. Let's see what we got going on. First one's running. Second one does not feel like it. Correct. And then we're pretty much supposed to go through everything. See if the transformers are set up right. Um have a feeling that it's uh a lot of things probably need set up. Okay, we got it plugged in. We connected to the Wi-Fi. Continue. Acknowledge. Continue. Connecting. All right, let's go in here and look at our unit state. See what's going on. Uh, damper cycle 561. Single dry bulb. That's not correct. Frequent status off. Um, this has a enthaly sensor on the other side. So that's wrong. Uh preset values, it's not super super fast, but uh operational shut off point 63. Want to take that down lower. Let's go 52. We'll try that. Enthropy shut off 28,000. We want to take that all the way down. We want this thing to run low as possible. Freeze protection 45. I'm going to take it down to 40. The damper position, all that stuff. freeze protection damper closed outdoor air lock 32. Um, but yeah, we're going to go through this and adjust it. All right, so I went through and had to log into it, which the default password is 1 BT. Then they want you to change your uh password after that. So went ahead and changed password. the one I came up with. I think it's kind of silly, but cuz you can reset it and wipe it all out and start over. But either way, and then I'll sometimes write in there the beginning of my password. That way I know what it was. But you can see I went through there, seen what was wrong, and I uploaded it. And now here we are. So once you got that done, it wants to go through here and see your minimum position and and double check things. So I want to make sure that minimum position I already know it's closed. So, let's start the opening process and we're going to see if that thing opens up. There she goes. So, we know that it's actuating and we know that's working. So, then we're going to check our sensor because like I said, they had that set wrong. This right here is a dual enthalpy sensor. It does humidity and does the uh temperature both. It's a single one. I did not see another one in there. I highly doubt we did. This is kind of a basic unit if you want to call it that. So, we know that's working. It It'll go further, but I'm not really horribly worried about it. Now, we're going to go in here and see if we can get the uh rest of it taken care of. Tell you what, we knew stage one was working. So, let's just jump to stage two. Make sure that works. So, the temperature sensor still's coming in as an error. And when you come up here, you look at it. I removed it so I could check the resistance on it. I'm not getting anything. I tried it both directions. Not that it should matter with a temperature sensor that's based off resistance. So, but for giggles, just in case it because it was DC voltage, nothing there. And then I always double check my probes just to make certain. And of course, we come down to 0.07 less than 1 ohm. So, yeah, it's it's bad. So, unfortunately, the economizer is not going to work because it needs to make sure that's discharge temperature is not getting too cold. Don't really have one. I don't know what this normally is set for. I can maybe use one of my sensors from one of the chillers possibly. Uh depending on what K rating this thing is. Otherwise, I've got everything programmed and uploaded, but that kind of screws us on our minimum positioning. With the minimum positioning, you can set your voltage. But the thing is, if the temperature's coming in too cold, say we're in the middle of winter and it's zero out, you can't go below your set point. And with no way of monitoring that, it's not going to let it happen. Went ahead and pulled her apart. And it is about 12K is what we're running right now at 71° out here. I could steal one of my ones from my uh chillers, but know they're kind of expensive. So, why not go ahead and see if one of my ones from the uh geothermals, which I think are about that same range, uh we're going to compare resistances together and see where we're at on and then we'll grab a hold of it and see if it goes up or down. That way, we know whether it's negative or positive coefficient. Okay, we're at 11.6K. Grab a hold of it. It is going down with heat. Okay, we're at 10.4. Let's grab a hold of it. Does it go down? It is also going down in resistance. Look at that. This should work. See, that is the negative versus positive coefficient. I don't remember if that's a negative one or a positive one. I don't know which direction it, you know, hotter or colder makes it go negative. How you determine that. So, let's go ahead and get this back together and turn it back on. And we will put that over there. We're going to check this one out after we get done with the other one. But I went ahead and chopped the end off of it. And we're just going to twist these together. And I like using a butt connector as a booty, which is what the alarm companies use when they put together the small little wires because basically you twist it together like normal. Slide it over top of it. And then when you crimp down on it, it don't come off. And you don't have to try to fight trying to get just a little bit into each piece. And also gives you a test point, too. So you can sit there and stick your meter in the other end and you can check the resistance which works out pretty fantastic. Look at that up in the air. Everything's fantastic. It is very slow to connect. It's not a very quick thing. I wanted to see what my outdoor temperature was. My leaving air temperature uh which is 60 uh outdoor air humidity 73% 9% uh damper and the feedback is at 4%. Okay. Want to go into fan set points. Low speed 2.7. Let's take that up to maybe 3.2. Confirm. Tell you what, I really like going maybe a little more. Let's go 4.2. There we go. 4.2. That definitely is quite a bit. Let's see where that puts us at. I'm not real sure that's going to make the humongous difference they think it's going to, but whatever. You notice here we've got normal LEDs. Blinky there means it ain't got it. You can scroll down. Free cool is not happening. At least this one doesn't have an error on it. This one has done 1300 cycles and single enthy. That might actually be set right. I kind of checking even though I'm just going to wipe it. I want to check it so that I know for certain that there's something different than what it was last time. Now, this one's set for 3.6 and 2.8, eight, which I used to set a little lower, but with this building not having their own uh makeup air unit actually blowing in, we got to do this now. We may may have some problems here when uh winter rolls along, which kind of sucks, but it is what it is. Uh 63 and 28. Yeah. So, most of this is all not going to work. So, we we got to push that down. That's going to make it run to the lowest. Be sure that we are bringing cold enough air in that we actually are able to cool the building. Take this one to 4.2. This one to 4.2. Now, we might get screwed when it's hot or cold. What do you do? Whoa, that's a bunch. That's getting it. That's getting it big time. All right, let's take it back down to maybe four. So, we changed the password. I think it's stupid because you can raise it, but uh this is making it so much quicker. Okay, so here's our fries and our exhaust tube. We went to our max DC and we dropped it down. It was supposedly 10 inside your panel here. It's got the factory settings. Do not lose that and do not reset the panel at all. It is not the reset you think. If you do, you lose everything. We got our control board there. We dropped it so far down to 8.2. And I'm kind of watching to see it's still going right up. No problem at all. I'm going to think we're going to try to take that down to maybe eight. That way we stop sucking all of our air out. We are sucking it out. Something fierce. Try 7.8. See how that does. Now they said they had so many problems last year heating that they had actually had an electric heater. I'm thinking we were sucking way too much out. The Retro Tech here from True Tech Tools. This is what I'm using. Um, it's got a USB port on the bottom to charge it. It's got replaceable cartridge here. It's basically like some sort of dried uh glycol or whatever. And it uses a heater and it keeps track how many puffs you get out of it. That works really well. It's a little expensive. It's 200 bucks, but you can get the recharging uh elements and everything all from True Tech Tools. I had some problems with my first one. Actually, this one wasn't want to charge correctly and they immediately took care of it and sent me a new one. So, they stand behind their product. If you have any problems that this is what you got to consider when you're buying it. Like I said, this is doing a lot better than what it was. You can see. I mean, it's definitely pulling it in. Let's go in here and see what we can do. Only worry is that they're going to have problems with it uh getting too smoky or too hot in there for them. I don't like the way they got this pizza oven half in, half out. So, I mean, you got heat coming out this way, but appears it's doing pretty good. It's still doing plenty. See the makeup area there does not have a fan up there blowing which they're kind of regretting that. They didn't want to go with the heated one because of the cost. But the problem is when the winter time rolls around, you bring in you take out too much air and then you're going to have problems with the uh building. All right. Still quite a bit. Yeah, still quite a bit. Steam off the side here. Not feeling anything up here. Still maybe once it gets up there, it's fine. might be getting a little borderline how fast it can go. Oh, there it's rolling out. I don't like that. May not be able to do that. So, we may need to go back up. And according to this, we are keeping up. Okay, it's running in second stage, which I don't know if it was doing too much before. So, I mean, we're looking pretty good on that. I I closed it up with a one degree differential, whereas before it was two. Uh I have a feeling that, you know, depending on whether it shuts off at set point or whether it sits there in lolly gags back into that variance, the variance is nice if you're in a controllable environment. But the problem you run into is you got uh never reach your set point. So on this place, I think I'm going to run with two set point because it's not really hitting uh set point as it is and we'll lock in second stage and then we'll actually remove the most uh moisture and uh most likely to hold temperature we need. Okay, so we're going to get total external static. You have to zero in the app on measure quick. Measure quick likes to give you a nice, you know, go no-go stuff. I'm not an expert on all this crap. You can't work on all the crap I work on and be good at everything. It's just the way it is. Gosh, dang it. They They did a double layer on these damn things. So, we're going to have to grab a uh straight pipe because they double insulated it and put it a foot away from the pipe. So, we'll get that. Got some copper stubs on there. It's just going to have to work. It's what we used to use all the time before. We got all this fancy stuff. And of course, it's so hot out here. It's screwing with the probes on the uh static pressure. Let's see what we get here on this. I went on the sides. That way it's less likely to leak anything in there. I drilled through it with my drill. There we go. Straight in. Better than nothing. I can tell you this much. It didn't happen before. So, at least it's happening. Let's put it that way. Wow. Look at that. um 0.52 and we're at our high almost our highest speed. And I don't know how many tons this thing is cuz they don't make it obvious. So let's see what we got for temperature split here. Guess our static ain't through the roof. And there you go. Let's see what we got here. Yeah, that thing don't feel like it's running. What the crap? Maybe it's on low. Let's go in there and crank her down nice and lower and see what we get. cuz that's not impressive. It was not running second stage. Let's see what it does now. 9.5 56° going out. 71 coming back or well that's wet bulb. So 61 supply 71 coming back. So right at 10. We're a little in the lower side. It's coming up slow, but we can slow it down just a scoosh. But then I'm afraid maybe by time we run that duck work way up and over and across the ceilings. Are we going to have issues? Got to talk to the sales dude. One of these ones where some engineer probably designed it that has no HVAC experience and then they want it the way they do it. If you want paid, we're coming in close here on the one. I can tell already those are going to get me in trouble. Okay, it's been in there long enough that it should be getting close. It uh same ordeal about 11. Still making the phone call. I don't know what the heat gain, heat loss, all that crap is on these buildings. I don't calculate that. So, we got to talk to them and find out what's going on. You know, that's the whole thing, man. We do too much different stuff. The architect is who designed it and they're doing a new load calculation. I am going to slow that down just a little bit. I'm going to shoot for 12 maybe 12 and a half area on that uh split and then we're going to probably see how it works. We can either slow it down a little bit like that. Not I mean I don't see the point if you're going to try to calculate it. You can immediately see it changing. There's 11.3 11.4. So we'll get this thing tweaked in here. Okay. Just dropping it down to the B. And at the middle position, which is usually factor default, we're at 12.8. We're in the green there. Supply is 56.4, 69 on the return. Then the wet bulbs and stuff. I think we're going to do that. That also helps us a little bit on the heating side of things. I just kind of double checking some of these settings in that in that economizer control, but I think that's going to be a better setting for it. There we go. Just like new again. Just like new again. And we're double checking this over here. I think we're going to start wrapping this up. Uh pretty sure this is probably going to be a 12 and a half. They're both 7 1/2 ton units plus probably 5 ton or he calculated up there's total of 20 when you count all the mini splits. Yeah, there's 13.5 on that. All right, that's right at 13. So, we dropped it another half down. I don't want to get too crazy. I've just had some crazy things with it comes to package units. They're not like residential. They tend to have a lot of problems when you go too cold. What would have been normal for that after sweating duck works and it's dripping down in the dining room area that kind of don't work real well and then they can always tear that out if they need to. Yeah, it' be great if we unplug. We don't. We'll lock it out. I think at 55 instead of 50. I think they're going to be able to get away with that. >> He's going to ask me. All right, guys. That's going to wrap this one up. Hope you enjoyed it. Uh, a little something different, I guess. Whatever you want to call it. I can tell that if we're getting a building down to 69 degrees, we must be doing a lot better, especially when the uh, building's hitting the temperature and we had the delay on the thermostats of 2° for each stage, which is just way way too much. Um, like I said, I did the 8 minute in between there, but it seems like it's overriding that as well, depending on what the temperature drop is that it's going to. But if you guys enjoyed the video, you know what I've been asking for. Smack the bell icon down below and give it a thumbs up and subscribe, guys. If you haven't subscribed yet, subscribe. Anyhow, till next time. Goodbye, everybody.