Video summary
The video addresses significant performance issues with a newly installed HVAC system in a recently remodeled building, where the equipment struggles to maintain proper cooling and air quality during warmer weather. The technician identifies that the primary culprit is a lack of adequate makeup air; the existing exhaust fans are pulling too much conditioned air out of the space without sufficient fresh air being brought back in to replace it. This imbalance causes the system to work inefficiently, leading to poor temperature control and potential issues when winter arrives. To resolve this, the technician begins by inspecting the physical setup, noting that the makeup air damper was incorrectly strapped shut and the fan settings were left at maximum speed, which exacerbated the airflow problems.
A substantial portion of the troubleshooting involves recalibrating the system's digital controls and replacing faulty sensors. The technician discovers that the unit's enthalpy sensor is defective and provides erroneous readings, preventing the economizer from functioning correctly. After removing the broken sensor, he tests a spare one from a geothermal chiller to ensure it has the correct negative temperature coefficient before installing it. He also adjusts various set points within the control panel, lowering the operational shut-off temperatures and increasing fan speeds to improve air circulation. Additionally, he changes the default password for security and uses specialized tools like a smoke test and static pressure gauges to verify that the dampers are actuating properly and that airflow is being restored to acceptable levels.
The final adjustments focus on optimizing the system's operation to prevent future failures during extreme temperatures. The technician reduces the temperature differential settings from two degrees to one degree to ensure the system runs more consistently without missing its target temperatures, a common issue with poorly designed commercial units. He also modifies the fan speed curves and static pressure readings to balance the load across multiple mini-split units in the building. By fine-tuning these parameters, he ensures that the system can effectively cool the space while managing moisture levels, ultimately creating a more stable environment that avoids the risks of freezing pipes or overheating when outdoor conditions change.
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>> Okay, we obviously got an issue here
with this draft hood. We're not bringing
in any supply. I guess the way this
thing's set up here is it doesn't uh
have a actual power blower bringing in
makeup air. We already did a test here
with the smoke to kind of see how well
it's doing. Kind of see. Yeah, grabbed
it, but it's
okay. Let's take a check back here at
this door.
It's not too bad there. Okay, here's the
bathroom. So, you can see we have an
exhaust
vent up there.
It's getting it. It's probably more than
these two, but I can hear it pulling.
So, one of the first things I wanted to
check with the makeup air, which I see
we got the good old seaman's control
there, which I do have the stick for it
uh to now program it a little quicker
and easier cuz I got like 78 to do. And
the other unit way over there, same
ordeal. Nothing's going on with that.
So, we're going to need to check that.
We need to make sure that everything's
cooling correctly.
frame rate recording is why it looks so
slow. So, uh, but yeah, they remodeled
this building completely and
everything's pretty much within a year
or two old. So, it's not doing very good
when it's warm out. That's what's going
on with this.
Okay, so here's the gateway. Don't need
it, but it sure makes it a little
easier. Takes a little bit to get it
working the way it should. Took the
connectivity took a little bit. So,
let's see what we can do with this
thing. One of the first things I wanted
to do, especially just kind of feeling
around to see how cold that is. Want to
know what my air flow is. Want to know
if my belts are loose, if there is
belts,
nice and hard on it. Yeah, I can just
about guarantee you that this probably
was not set correctly.
So,
since we know it's a true blue or
whatever they call it,
let's get a probes out. Let's check
static pressure. Make sure that's set
right. Then we'll start adjusting the uh
the damper on it.
The only thing bad about this design is
I can't
really uh block it off very well and
actually work on it. Luckily, it's not
very cold out here. So, it'll be all
right. Let's go ahead and just take a
look at it. See what we got. I had to
loosen this up cuz they strapped it up
like that so that you can't get through.
I don't know why they wouldn't have
taken it to the ground, but just judging
by the big labels there that we don't
use. We probably didn't do the power.
Oh, they got it on its highest speed.
Yeah, they've got it on C and they got
it all the way up to there. And then we
got an issue here with this temperature.
Something's probably not set right up on
it either. So, we're going to need to
start doing something with this. Let's
see what we got going on.
First one's running. Second one does not
feel like it. Correct.
And then
we're pretty much supposed to go through
everything. See if the transformers are
set up right.
Um
have a feeling that it's uh
a lot of things probably need set up.
Okay, we got it plugged in. We connected
to the Wi-Fi. Continue.
Acknowledge.
Continue. Connecting.
All right, let's go in here and look at
our unit state. See what's going on.
Uh, damper cycle 561. Single dry bulb.
That's not correct.
Frequent status off. Um, this has a
enthaly sensor on the other side. So
that's wrong. Uh preset values, it's not
super super fast, but
uh operational shut off point 63.
Want to take that down lower.
Let's go 52. We'll try that. Enthropy
shut off 28,000. We want to take that
all the way down. We want this thing to
run low as possible.
Freeze protection 45. I'm going to take
it down to 40. The damper position, all
that stuff. freeze protection damper
closed outdoor air lock 32.
Um, but yeah, we're going to go through
this and adjust it. All right, so I went
through and had to log into it, which
the default password is 1 BT. Then they
want you to change your uh password
after that. So went ahead and changed
password. the one I came up with. I
think it's kind of silly, but cuz you
can reset it and wipe it all out and
start over.
But either way, and then I'll sometimes
write in there the beginning of my
password. That way I know what it was.
But you can see I went through there,
seen what was wrong, and I uploaded it.
And now here we are. So once you got
that done, it wants to go through here
and see your minimum position
and and double check things. So I want
to make sure that minimum position I
already know it's closed. So, let's
start the opening process
and we're going to see if that thing
opens up. There she goes. So, we know
that it's actuating and we know that's
working. So, then we're going to check
our sensor because like I said, they had
that set wrong. This right here is a
dual enthalpy sensor. It does humidity
and does
the uh temperature both. It's a single
one. I did not see another one in there.
I highly doubt we did. This is kind of a
basic unit if you want to call it that.
So, we know that's working. It It'll go
further, but I'm not really horribly
worried about it. Now, we're going to go
in here and see if we can get the uh
rest of it taken care of. Tell you what,
we knew stage one was working. So, let's
just jump to stage two. Make sure that
works. So, the temperature sensor
still's coming in as an error. And when
you come up here, you look at it. I
removed it so I could check the
resistance on it. I'm not getting
anything.
I tried it both directions. Not that it
should matter with a temperature sensor
that's based off resistance. So, but for
giggles, just in case it because it was
DC voltage, nothing there. And then I
always double check my probes just to
make certain. And of course, we come
down to 0.07
less than 1 ohm. So,
yeah, it's it's bad. So, unfortunately,
the economizer is not going to work
because it needs to make sure that's
discharge temperature is not getting too
cold. Don't really have one. I don't
know what this normally is set for. I
can maybe use one of my sensors from one
of the chillers possibly.
Uh depending on what K rating this thing
is. Otherwise, I've got everything
programmed and uploaded, but that kind
of screws us on our minimum positioning.
With the minimum positioning, you can
set your voltage. But the thing is, if
the temperature's coming in too cold,
say we're in the middle of winter and
it's zero out, you can't go below your
set point. And with no way of monitoring
that, it's not going to let it happen.
Went ahead and pulled her apart. And it
is about 12K is what we're running right
now at 71° out here. I could steal one
of my ones from my uh chillers, but know
they're kind of expensive. So, why not
go ahead and see if one of my
ones from the uh geothermals, which I
think are about that same range,
uh we're going to compare resistances
together
and see where we're at on and then we'll
grab a hold of it and see if it goes up
or down. That way, we know whether it's
negative or positive coefficient. Okay,
we're at 11.6K.
Grab a hold of it. It is going down
with heat.
Okay, we're at 10.4. Let's grab a hold
of it. Does it go down?
It is also going down in resistance.
Look at that. This should work.
See, that is the negative versus
positive coefficient. I don't remember
if that's a negative one or a positive
one. I don't know which direction it,
you know, hotter or colder makes it go
negative. How you determine that. So,
let's go ahead and get this back
together and turn it back on. And we
will put that over there. We're going to
check this one out after we get done
with the other one.
But I went ahead and chopped the end off
of it. And we're just going to twist
these together. And I like using a butt
connector as a booty, which is what the
alarm companies use when they put
together the small little wires because
basically you twist it together like
normal. Slide it over top of it. And
then when you crimp down on it,
it don't come off. And you don't have to
try to fight trying to get just a little
bit into each piece. And also gives you
a test point, too. So you can sit there
and stick your meter in the other end
and you can check the resistance which
works out pretty fantastic.
Look at that up in the air. Everything's
fantastic. It is very slow to connect.
It's not a very quick thing. I wanted to
see what my outdoor temperature was. My
leaving air temperature uh which is 60
uh outdoor air humidity 73% 9% uh damper
and the feedback is at 4%. Okay. Want to
go into fan set points. Low speed 2.7.
Let's take that up to maybe 3.2.
Confirm. Tell you what, I really like
going maybe a little more. Let's go 4.2.
There we go.
4.2. That definitely is quite a bit.
Let's see where that puts us at. I'm not
real sure that's going to make the
humongous difference they think it's
going to, but whatever. You notice here
we've got normal
LEDs. Blinky there means it ain't got
it. You can scroll down. Free cool is
not happening.
At least this one doesn't have an error
on it. This one has done 1300 cycles and
single enthy. That might actually be set
right. I kind of checking even though
I'm just going to wipe it. I want to
check it so that I know for certain that
there's something different than what it
was last time. Now, this one's set for
3.6 and 2.8, eight, which I used to set
a little lower, but with this building
not having their own uh makeup air unit
actually blowing in, we got to do this
now. We may may have some problems here
when uh winter rolls along,
which kind of sucks, but it is what it
is. Uh 63 and 28. Yeah. So, most of this
is all not going to work.
So, we we got to push that down. That's
going to make it run to the lowest. Be
sure that we are bringing cold enough
air in that we actually are able to cool
the building. Take this one to 4.2.
This one to 4.2. Now, we might get
screwed when it's hot or cold. What do
you do? Whoa, that's a bunch.
That's getting it. That's getting it big
time. All right, let's take it back down
to maybe four.
So, we changed the password. I think
it's stupid because you can raise it,
but uh this is making it so much
quicker. Okay, so here's our fries and
our exhaust tube.
We went to our max DC and we dropped it
down. It was supposedly 10 inside your
panel here. It's got the factory
settings. Do not lose that and do not
reset the panel at all. It is not the
reset you think. If you do, you lose
everything. We got our control board
there. We dropped it so far down to 8.2.
And I'm kind of watching to see it's
still going right up. No problem at all.
I'm going to think we're going to try to
take that down to maybe eight.
That way we stop sucking all of our air
out. We are sucking it out. Something
fierce.
Try 7.8. See how that does. Now they
said they had so many problems last year
heating that they had actually had an
electric heater. I'm thinking we were
sucking way too much out. The Retro Tech
here from True Tech Tools. This is what
I'm using. Um, it's got a USB port on
the bottom to charge it. It's got
replaceable cartridge here. It's
basically like some sort of dried uh
glycol or whatever. And it uses a heater
and it keeps track how many puffs you
get out of it. That works really well.
It's a little expensive. It's 200 bucks,
but you can get the recharging uh
elements and everything all from True
Tech Tools. I had some problems with my
first one. Actually, this one wasn't
want to charge correctly and they
immediately took care of it and sent me
a new one. So, they stand behind their
product. If you have any problems that
this is what you got to consider when
you're buying it. Like I said, this is
doing a lot better than what it was. You
can see.
I mean, it's definitely pulling it in.
Let's go in here and see what we can do.
Only worry is that they're going to have
problems with it uh getting too smoky or
too hot in there for them. I don't like
the way they got this pizza oven half
in, half out. So, I mean, you got heat
coming out this way, but appears it's
doing pretty good.
It's still doing plenty.
See the makeup area there does not have
a fan up there blowing which they're
kind of regretting that. They didn't
want to go with the heated one because
of the cost. But the problem is when the
winter time rolls around, you bring in
you take out too much air and then
you're going to have problems with the
uh building.
All right.
Still quite a bit.
Yeah, still quite a bit.
Steam off the side here.
Not feeling anything up here.
Still
maybe once it gets up there, it's fine.
might be getting a little borderline how
fast it can go.
Oh, there it's rolling out. I don't like
that. May not be able to do that. So, we
may need to go back up.
And according to this, we are keeping
up. Okay, it's running in second stage,
which I don't know if it was doing too
much before. So, I mean, we're looking
pretty good on that. I I closed it up
with a one degree differential, whereas
before it was two. Uh I have a feeling
that, you know, depending on whether it
shuts off at set point or whether it
sits there in lolly gags back into that
variance, the variance is nice if you're
in a controllable environment. But the
problem you run into is you got uh never
reach your set point. So on this place,
I think I'm going to run with two set
point because it's not really hitting uh
set point as it is and we'll lock in
second stage and then we'll actually
remove the most uh moisture and uh most
likely to hold temperature we need.
Okay, so we're going to get total
external static. You have to zero in the
app on measure quick. Measure quick
likes to give you a nice, you know, go
no-go stuff. I'm not an expert on all
this crap. You can't work on all the
crap I work on and be good at
everything. It's just the way it is.
Gosh, dang it. They They did a double
layer on these damn things. So, we're
going to have to grab a uh straight pipe
because they double insulated it and put
it a foot away from the pipe. So, we'll
get that. Got some copper stubs on
there. It's just going to have to work.
It's what we used to use all the time
before. We got all this fancy stuff. And
of course, it's so hot out here. It's
screwing with the probes on the uh
static pressure. Let's see what we get
here on this. I went on the sides. That
way it's less likely to leak anything in
there. I drilled through it with my
drill.
There we go. Straight in.
Better than nothing. I can tell you this
much. It didn't happen before. So, at
least it's happening. Let's put it that
way. Wow. Look at that. um 0.52
and we're at our high almost our highest
speed. And I don't know how many tons
this thing is cuz they don't make it
obvious.
So let's see what we got for temperature
split here. Guess our static ain't
through the roof.
And there you go. Let's see what we got
here. Yeah, that thing don't feel like
it's running. What the crap? Maybe it's
on low. Let's go in there and crank her
down nice and lower and see what we get.
cuz that's not impressive. It was not
running second stage. Let's see what it
does now.
9.5
56° going out.
71 coming back or well that's wet bulb.
So 61 supply
71 coming back.
So right at 10.
We're a little in the lower side. It's
coming up slow, but we can slow it down
just a scoosh. But then I'm afraid maybe
by time we run
that duck work way up and over and
across the ceilings.
Are we going to have issues? Got to talk
to the sales dude. One of these ones
where some engineer probably designed it
that has no HVAC experience and then
they want it the way they do it. If you
want paid, we're coming in close here on
the one. I can tell already those are
going to get me in trouble. Okay, it's
been in there long enough that it should
be getting close.
It uh
same ordeal about 11.
Still making the phone call. I don't
know what the heat gain, heat loss, all
that crap is on these buildings. I don't
calculate that. So, we got to talk to
them and find out what's going on. You
know, that's the whole thing, man. We do
too much different stuff. The architect
is who designed it and they're doing a
new load calculation.
I am going to slow that down just a
little bit. I'm going to shoot for 12
maybe 12 and a half area on that uh
split and then we're going to probably
see how it works.
We can either slow it down a little bit
like that. Not I mean I don't see the
point if you're going to try to
calculate it. You can immediately see it
changing. There's 11.3
11.4.
So we'll get this thing tweaked in here.
Okay. Just dropping it down to the B.
And at the middle position, which is
usually factor default, we're at 12.8.
We're in the green there.
Supply is 56.4,
69 on the return.
Then the wet bulbs and stuff. I think
we're going to do that. That also helps
us a little bit on the heating side of
things. I just kind of double checking
some of these settings in that in that
economizer control, but I think that's
going to be a better setting for it.
There we go. Just like new again. Just
like new again.
And we're double checking this over
here. I think we're going to start
wrapping this up. Uh pretty sure this is
probably going to be a 12 and a half.
They're both 7 1/2 ton units plus
probably 5 ton or he calculated up
there's total of 20 when you count all
the mini splits. Yeah, there's 13.5
on that.
All right, that's right at 13. So, we
dropped it another half down. I don't
want to get too crazy. I've just had
some crazy things with it comes to
package units. They're not like
residential. They tend to have a lot of
problems when you go too cold. What
would have been normal for that after
sweating duck works and it's dripping
down in the dining room area that kind
of don't work real well and then they
can always tear that out if they need
to.
Yeah, it' be great if we unplug. We
don't. We'll lock it out. I think at 55
instead of
50. I think they're going to be able to
get away with that.
>> He's going to ask me.
All right, guys. That's going to wrap
this one up. Hope you enjoyed it. Uh, a
little something different, I guess.
Whatever you want to call it. I can tell
that if we're getting a building down to
69 degrees, we must be doing a lot
better, especially when the uh,
building's hitting the temperature and
we had the delay on the thermostats of
2° for each stage, which is just way way
too much. Um, like I said, I did the 8
minute in between there, but it seems
like it's overriding that as well,
depending on what the temperature drop
is that it's going to. But if you guys
enjoyed the video, you know what I've
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next time. Goodbye, everybody.