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New Carrier Startup: What The Factory Missed

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The video features an HVAC technician performing a detailed startup and inspection of a new 480-volt Carrier package unit installed in a paint booth, using this project to highlight widespread quality control issues found in equipment manufactured elsewhere. The narrator emphasizes that despite factory markings indicating checked connections, many components arrived loose or improperly secured, leading him to tighten every screw, fuse, and wire connection personally before operation. He critiques the manufacturing practices for cutting corners, such as placing safety thermostats directly behind filters where maintenance access could damage wiring, leaving sharp metal edges exposed near electrical wires that risk short circuits, and installing capillary tubes too close to pipes which would cause leaks upon vibration. The technician argues these flaws are not isolated incidents but reflect a broader industry trend among various manufacturers who prioritize cost savings over durability and safety. During the startup process, the narrator meticulously checks for common installation errors, including ensuring light bulbs on pressure switches point upward to allow proper refrigerant expansion rather than being installed lazily upside down, which he views as another example of poor workmanship. He inspects electrical components like ROMX connectors and lugs, often finding them loose or improperly torqued, and takes time to re-route wires away from moving fan blades and vibrating pipes using tape or custom brackets when necessary. A significant portion of the video is dedicated to addressing dangerous sharp edges on heater bands that could cut through insulation if not carefully managed with additional protection like grommets or bending nearby metal parts out of the way, demonstrating how small oversights during installation can lead to catastrophic failures later in the unit's life cycle. The core technical focus shifts to balancing airflow and static pressure within the paint booth environment to ensure efficient dehumidification without sucking dust into the clean room. Using a digital manometer and voltage charts from an HVAC app, he calculates the required fan speed settings based on measured DC voltages at specific inlet pressures, aiming for optimal performance around 7.6 volts which corresponds to approximately 8,750 CFM of airflow. He explains that while some professionals might simply set fans without verification, his method involves precise adjustments and double-checking calculations to guarantee the system operates within safe parameters before leaving the job site. Throughout this process, he also configures the complex Seaman controller for humidity and temperature monitoring despite its difficult interface, noting that a USB accessory could simplify setup but ultimately relying on manual configuration due to budget constraints or availability issues. Ultimately, the video serves as both an instructional guide for new technicians and a critique of current industry standards regarding equipment reliability and installer responsibility. The narrator concludes by asserting that while fixing these preventable mistakes may seem tedious or unnecessary at first glance, they are essential steps to avoid costly repairs, refrigerant leaks, and safety hazards down the road. He encourages viewers who feel their own training was inadequate to adopt similar rigorous inspection habits rather than trusting factory defaults blindly, especially when dealing with units made in regions where labor costs drive manufacturers to compromise on quality. By methodically addressing every loose connection, misaligned component, and potential vibration point, he demonstrates that true professionalism lies in anticipating problems before they occur rather than reacting to them after expensive damage has already happened.
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This video is brought to you in part by True Tech Tools. Quality tools, essential support. [music] What's going on, guys? Today we're doing a start up on some package units. So, what we got here is a 480 volt system. It's got the new blue motors on them. It's got the Seaman's controller, which is a pain in the butt. And we're just going to go through some of the things that I normally would do. This is kind of basic for those who've been doing it forever. However, this is how I do it. If you're new to the field and you want to learn how to do things a little bit better. You know, these are some of the things I do. They might help improve you. It's entirely up to you. Do what you want. If you're already here watching, then that's the first step to trying to make yourself better cuz you're trying to learn from wherever you can find it at. Um, if you're like me, the schooling that I took was not adequate. And generally, there's none that is because you're going to have to learn things on your own. So, here's some basic stuff that I do. So, kind of getting started. I already went through a few of these things. We still got a few more things to do yet. So, the first thing I did went ahead and killed the voltage to the unit and I checked my connections. This one right here was loose. These here I got a little bit of a quarter of a turn. This one here I got like two turns out of. You would think the factory comes through with their blue marker and they would have checked it. Don't trust them. This crap's made in Mexico. Not saying Mexico is a bad place, but there's obviously a reason why they're doing it cheaper. I'm not saying Americans do everything right because they don't. A lot of them have a bad attitude. That is the way it is. Um, no holds bar. If you don't like it, shut the video off. I don't really care. This is the fact. This is what I see. We had a million problems. In the last three videos, you watched me work on those three chillers over there. All made in Mexico. Now, high dollar unit. And like I said, we've had no problems with those things. Stuff that was easily preventable. Am I hammering away at Carrier? Yeah. And the thing is, it's not just Carrier. It's Train. It's Dyken. It's all the other manufacturers. They're all cutting corners. And the reason why is because we have a work issue. People just don't care about their work, whether they do a good job or not. So, that's not to be condemning, but it's just to point out the facts of what I keep running into. So, for here, for starters, look what we did here. They ran this uh safety control, which is a thermostat, right in front of the thermos, right in front of the filter here. What kind of common sense was that? Here's the other wire. So, every time somebody has to pull the filter out, it's going to run right into the wire. Sure, you can pull it out, but you know what? Maintenance guys are going to come up here. They're not going to pay attention to that. They could have easily drilled a hole through here. Came down and around and over. Same thing with this. If you pull on it, it goes right to here. They could have easily drilled a hole, went right through there. What's it matter? Cuz I mean, they got a big old gap here anyway. What's it matter if whether they have a little hole, little grommet in it, and move it on? I'm going to have to fix that because the factory didn't do their job. So, anyhow, we've got the seams controller here, which I have to pull up the control panel uh manual because it's a pain in the butt. Went through and checked all of my screws here. Make sure they're all tight. Only two of the fuses are used, but tightened all those. Went through and tightened up our connections here. Some of those I could get a turn or two out of. Make sure that all of our wires are tight. If they look crookedy and stuff, chop them off. Get a nice clean strip, get it underneath there. Next thing I started going through here is looking at my capillary tubes, making sure that nothing is rubbing up against pipes. A lot of these were right up against pipes. That's going to rub through, cause a leak, then you lose your refrigerant. Next thing I do, I grab my bulbs. See if they turn. If they turn, they're not tight. Next thing to check is is did they put the bulbs so that the bulb is pointing up? No. Lazy. Didn't do it. This bulb should be up on the top. That way the refrigerant has to expand and come out. That's common practice. Will it make a huge difference? Maybe not. But it definitely is letting the liquid come straight down. That's just cutting corners, not doing the job right. Once again, why are they cheaper in Mexico? So, we've got here on quite a few in the past. I did a video on it. It was a brand new unit. These wires here were right up against the sharp edge of the metal. These ones here are fairly okay. The um everything in here was fairly decent. One of the other things I do is I go through and I check all my caps. Make sure they're tight. Make sure the caps are even on. half time there might be missing caps. So, the refrigerant caps got those on on these uh lines here. You can only do so much on these. They got them so tight in there. You can't really separate them much, but if you can separate them a little bit, it might be better or either clamp them completely together. Coming over here, the compressors, they had these [clears throat] sharp edges from the heater. I've seen these short out a million times. They uh had this sharp ba belly band thing laying right across the wire. The wires laying across it. Had all these zip ties here. They were all loose. None of them were tightened. Um what scares me about these welds, these welds look pretty good at first, but when you stare at them, I think they just painted it on and didn't pull anything in there. I think I have a bad feeling that the brazing alloy wasn't pulled into the pocket at all. Uh went through here. This pipe right here was up against that. Went ahead and bended it in a little bit so it's not going to vibrate right up against it. Be careful. These cheap press out pieces of metal. They will cut you. I sliced my hand a couple times on the recent ones. Next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to go through and I'm going to tighten up all the set screws on the fans. Make sure they're tight. And then I'm going to look at those wires up there too cuz those wires have a tendency to fall down. They'll get caught in the fan. Chop them off. That happened in one of my other videos from a year ago. That was a disaster. And then once again, checking these wires, making sure these wires aren't laying across the pipes so that they can rub through. This here was actually tucked underneath this piece of metal here. You can see where the water was trailing. So, it actually is showing that it was following it. I don't like them even laying on top of that right there cuz it can vibrate into the edge of that head of the bolt. So, clamp them together, pull them away from it. you know, if you got to put a wire tie around this bundle here and then maybe do a wire tie to wire tie to hold them away from it, the better you're going to be. Going through and double checking the fins, making sure the fins aren't all smashed to hell, which these don't have hail guard on it. They'll probably regret that. I don't know why they did this, but they used the old trap and it should have probably been upgraded to something a little bit bigger. These are 25 tons. Now, this is on a paint booth for a toolbox company. They don't need heat. So, they're cooling everything in the tool uh the uh paint booth. So, gas is here. This gas is never going to be run. Not going to be used. We got to adjust the fans and the economizer. We're going to bring in about 15% air so we keep everything in a positive. You don't want to suck dust into a paint booth. Like I said, I've got my iPad. I shot the manual to it. You can pull up some of the stuff here off of the uh QR code there. All right. So, that's where we're at. Not the most exciting thing in the world, but you know, it's the simple things like this that end up preventing a lot of money down the road being lost for stupid things that could have been caught. That's what today's video is about. Might sound like a Once again, don't like it, don't watch it. I don't really care. That's just where we're at. [snorts] That was really difficult, wasn't it? [sighs] All right. So, we got that fixed. Not a huge deal, is it? Maybe not. Maybe it is. We just had uh another new unit had the bulb snap right off because it wasn't installed right. This is probably what happened. Okay. No sharp edges. Yeah, we could put a thing in there, but honestly, it would have been damaged quicker by doing what they were freaking doing originally than anything else. Shouldn't even have to do this. There we go. Wasn't that hard? My god, it was hard. So, we got that one fixed. We got this wire ran down through up and over here. It's not in the way of the ignition, which it won't matter anyway cuz we're not going to use it. Everything grounded and back together again. Double checking all your wires. The power is off like I showed earlier. Transformer tap. It's something you want to check when you're on 208 230 volt. If it's 208, 213, usually 208. I like 25, 26 volts, 27 volts. I don't like 23 22 because when you put a load on it, it tends to uh dip down, possibly could cut things out. I like going around and just pulling the wires, tugging on them, making sure, do they pull off? Anything like that. Don't trust that paint marker. So, I have that ground wire. I forgot to check that. Let's do that real quick. That's pretty tight. Maybe I did check it. I don't remember. Okay. And then we already checked rotation. And I also did voltage check. So, the voltage is swinging up and down because they have such load down there. Uh 492, 93, and 94. That's all under that 2%. So, we're good. Uh HVAC school app got an app for calculating that. You don't even have to figure it out. Just enter the numbers. It'll go down to decimal points if you want. It wasn't worth writing down decimal points because it, like I said, it was going 493.5, 492, you know, it was it was we averaged it. Got our panels back on. Just one screw in each of them. Got to get this power back on. There we go. Welcome. [snorts] Welcome to the big show. Okay, I don't have my wire ties up here. And honestly, tape sometimes works better than does wire ties cuz tape don't usually break after it gets a little bit old. So, that'll hold that there. Keeps that all away from that bundle. That one there is kind of a difficult one. There's only so much you can do with that. At least nothing's laying on the actual pipes. [snorts] So, we should be good. Now, we're going to start on this seams controller, which is you can buy a USB stick thing for it. Make it a lot easier. This is a abomination. You got to take this loose to loosen it up. Otherwise, what's going to end up happening, they don't tuck this in there like I just did. This is going to yank out if you try to just lift it up because theoretically, it's supposed to lift up like that and pull out. But it was pinned in here pretty tight because this here was clamped in after it was already put in place. So, maybe loosen that up a little bit. But eventually once I loosened this one up, got the middle one out, then I was able to do it. Off to the side here, you can see that we've got the seaman sensor right there. That sensor is going to ma monitor humidity and temperature both. So we're going true uh enthropy. And right now we're completely closed. This is your bypass damper. So if you over pressurize the building, it's going to actually blow this open. Most of the time this is going to be closed. But right now you can tell it's [snorts] uh building's in a negative. Here's the configure spot. You've got all your manual. It's maybe in the paper. Half the time ours gets lost and we never find it again. uh input output configurations. And so you look at this number here, six or it might say seven or it could say eight and all that other stuff. You find that in your chart here and then you look at it and you configure it for what you have. Your unit may have a return air sensor. It may have just a mix sensor and a outdoor sensor. It may be a temperature only, might be humidity and temperature both. So not worth really showing you. You got to go through it. Honestly, it's easy enough to do it this way if you do a bunch of them. If you don't, the Wi-Fi thing would make it a lot easier, which I really wish I would have bought by now, but unfortunately, I haven't. But go through there and set that thing up. So, we're over here at the other one now. Same thing as before. Discharge line right there up against the metal. So, we got to bump that over. Yeah, that one's kind of loose. Oil levels look good. Wires are all up in there. Everything's still loose like you see over there and there. Give this a little bump. There we go. Just enough to keep it away from it. Wires look like they're all hooked up. You know, they're just right up against that. That way [clears throat] it can short out. So, these short out all the time like this. So, uh, we've already adjusted the damper on this one, and so we're going to shut this one down. That way, it doesn't, uh, blow anything while we're trying to work on it. One of the things I noticed, like low voltage here, or uh, whatever you want to call it, it's just like, I don't know, it don't look good. At least you can say they're consistent. Not in a good way. Wires are in the way. Bulbs are upside down. Crap's just half hanging on. Good job, boys. Really impressed. Okay, got them drilled. Brush out some of these shavings here. Run your finger along it. See if it cuts your finger. If it don't, then it's safe enough for the wire. If you got some ROMX connectors, it's definitely better than the way they had it, cuz I guarantee it was going to get screwed up uh getting pulled out with the filters every couple months if even if even if even that often. All right, I had to go grab my five foot ladder there to kind of get me up here to take some of these screws out. We just got that wire switched over and through there. Look at that. See that screws in the middle? I I took out two here to lift this up and those just pop up. So, now we'll go and get these here done. Also, I said something on one of my other videos, but I end up not putting it in it cuz I wanted to see what snap mount would do. If any other guys out there that watch me actually make YouTube videos and stuff and are thinking about getting Snap Mount Snap Mount, uh, I bought it 3 months ago. They only carry a like 30-day warranty. Um, so don't waste your money on that junk. They broke. You know, it's nice cuz you can like unhook and it just hooks right back to your shirt like that. But this here's a Chinese version and it's not as not as good far as stability, but it hasn't broke. And snap mount did nothing for me. So, just something to hang out there for you guys to to hear. Just a public service announcement. So, I left him a real wonderful review on Amazon. Total waste of money. I love these head looks so nice. How about we just kind of get a little nice little loopy doop here. There you go. Little loopy doop. Another little loopy doop. There you go. So, just twanging it all over the Mexican border here. It's just like they just string this crap. No care, no thought, no nothing. Just throw it in there. Good enough. We go. They got a little indentation there for it to go in. That way it makes it a little more brain dead. They still put it in upside down. Whatever. That was so difficult. And you know, anybody that was doing an inspection would have seen that the stem came out of the bottom, not the top. Those are tight. Now, on when I get on the really big lugs and stuff, I'll get my torque wrench out. And most of these blocks have torque settings on them that will tell you what they are supposed to be at. And you can do that with a uh socket style Allen wrench. Yes. Power's off. That blocking very secure, is it? Those are all pretty tight. These are really important here. And that one wasn't all that expressive. That's all your connections right there. What I like about these, they fold up. Gives you a little bit of leverage. You don't want to get stupid and snap them, but you can. That's why you do it with by hand and not by by the gun. Make sure power's coming into the top, not the bottom. That was the last mistake. I was at a uh new chicken place that was coming in Linux unit they requested. Electricians wired it wrong. It's like, dude, that's not going to pass if you're going to get inspected. Oh, that's nice. See, somebody just completely forgot about that one. I ain't with the 480 volt side of things. Um, that's existing. Obviously, it's dirty box. These are the connectors I like for those pass through type deals for when the wires go through. We don't stock them unfortunately. And why can't you use a Romax connector? Tighten these up. Tighten up some of these. They made that really convenient, didn't they? What What was that thought process? These are already kind of tight. Those are just floppying around. That's almost impressive. Yeah, we'll just bring these over with some tape. Honestly, this probably isn't going to vibrate much if it's down here on the uh oil. Most likely won't get that hot. All right, good enough to get it running. See if we can get onto this. See if it's tight or not. Not too impressive. Can't reach the other ones very easily. You got to remember if one of those blades come off, it's going to go flying right through that coil. And then there goes the refrigerant. There goes the coil and there goes their cooling down for their paint booth. At least this one has copen scroll compressors, the original. So that France crap. Wind is blowing down. Look at that. Get right by it. And up here also going that direction. You have your negative side of the blower, your positive side of the blower. So, anything backing up on it, this is truly across the blower itself. You're not measuring the coil. You're not measuring the filters. You're literally doing just the blower. And on low, we're at 0.95. Usually five is the highest you want. And we're on low now. So, when we're on high, we were well over around two. So, it's like, yeah, it's not really good. This one probably's running high cuz it ran the most of all of them. This one's not horrible. Yeah, right. It just went up. It's fluctuating. We must be must be surging. Yeah, we're like 08 9 to one. Y1 in and out. On. Y 2 in, off. So, we're on low again. So, if we crank it to W2 or Y2, then she going to go high. She going high. And they were wanting us to slow these down because they're five tons bigger than what they were, but that's because we're bringing in outside air. Yeah, loving it. It's a little bit higher. 0.9 to one on low. Let's kick this talamazoo up to one. 2. Here we go. Give it the old Y 2. Eat, baby. Eat. We're already at 48° or discharge temperature. Yeah, that's 2.5 2.3. This is the way I've seen a lot of the so-called professional balancers do it. They're literally drilling their doors. You might be able to go down here, but that one over there was a little more difficult to tell which one was which. I think I don't know. These things are way up in the air because of the uh curb adapter, but I can see that's not really where it should be at. We're mainly in the negative side here. So on the incoming side of the unit, we're at 1.4 in. We're at positive.74 on the outgoing. If we can get find out what's going on, which I would suspect is probably plugged filters down below cuz they have prefilters for the paint booth. And I bet you they're plugged full of crud. Even though we're bringing in, you know, moderate, you know, in 2 and 1/2 in 2 in of uh damper being open there, it's kind of hard to tell. I had to give it a 6V signal which is not 15% according to the voltage chart but there really ain't nothing else that much open that really gives you a real indication that it's truly like 60. So 1.4 maximum external static pressure 1.4. Obviously we don't want that but you're going to have that also though when you're moving some massive air. But well we're waiting for the guy that sold it to get back with us. Let's check our compressor. Pulling 3.3 on that or I'm pulling 13.3 area on that one. 13.4. I was thinking about drilling a hole down here in bottom. See if it makes a difference. I stand corrected. Look at that. Whether you're going one in and one out or whatever, you got one point one. Flip this sucker the other direction if it's coming up that way. Still 1.1 doesn't make a bit of difference. Switch this one around if you want. There you go. 180. 1.1. It don't matter. That's the whole point of the port. So on this one here, we have a 65 on the positive and a 48 on the negative. Yeah, I I got to find out which way is acceptable or not. Honestly, all we were checking is the fans static pressure used for efficiency drops. So, yeah, made a mistake. I'm an idiot. So, anyhow, best way an idiot can redeem himself is to, you know, check and see, uh, before he leaves the job. So, uh, now we're doing a lot better. 1.1 at the highest. So, yeah. Let's see if we can do the same thing over here on this other one. What's kind of crazy is that's not insulated. I don't know how they got away with that. Okay, this one has duck uh duck board inside of it, which we're pushing through it, hooking and going. So, my guess would be that is the supply. Okay, so like I said, I'm an idiot. I'll leave this in there just so you guys know that I don't lie to you cuz you know, that's the worst I did. I guess uh whatever. So like I mentioned earlier, took a picture of that chart, pressure chart. So if we go to 1.0 and we check the DC voltage we've got here, which we come down to here, and this is going to tell us our supposedly our CFM. Okay, we are at 7.5 volts. 7.5 volts. You're about 8,700 CFM at 1.0. We're at a 1.1. So, the voltage goes up to keep that same thing with a higher static. Uh 15 ton or 25 ton. So, 25 * Let's go 350 cuz we're trying to go low. 8750. [clears throat] 8750. We're about dead balls on the money right there, bro. 7.5. I'm going to say we're going to hold it right in there. And that's probably why we're getting away with 47° leaving air temperature. So yeah, it's uh just one of them things. I guess you could technically move it just a touch touch more. There's 7.6 7.7. So at 7.7 technically, you know, obviously you increase the speed, you're going to increase your static pressure. So yeah, we're just going to have to double check that now. We increased that speed and we're still at 1.05. So 1.05 1 in static 1.1 1 08. We're fluctuating. So we may not have had to adjust that speed at all. Two would be 7.8. So if you split the difference be about 7.6. We could go 7.6 six. And that would put us right in at that bare bone 350 CFM, which is going to dehumidify really good. 7.6. So, let's take it back down just a touch. 7.64. 7.63. I'm going to leave it there. It's close enough. Go 1.1 in 7.6 volts DC 8750 CM. There we go. We're splitting hairs here. But yeah, that's that's where we're at. At least I checked it. Most people wouldn't check it. I'll be honest with you. Set it and hope for the best. All right, before you guys catch me on this, you probably already did. I didn't realize. See, I'm kind of I mean, I'm almost 6 foot and I can't see up there. So, yeah, that's probably throwing off my return static a little bit, but it uh we're going to leave it go. Everything's looking fine. So, um checked out some of the obvious stuff that we always do, you know, check amp draws, did our voltage uh unbalanced, stuff like that. Those are some of the things I did, too. I didn't show everything, but those are just some of the more common ones or more the thing that's a little bit different. So, anyhow, there's other things that I did far as, you know, checking the charge, making sure that stuff's right. I mean, you can check that or not check it. I mean, theoretically, it should be right, but then so should everything else that's been checked on here and found it wasn't necessarily tight or in the right particular Yeah. position. So, all right. This is a simple one. Like I said, guys, thanks for watching. We'll catch you on the next one later.