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N2MB Wot Box Install And Wiring On Dodge Challenger.

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This video provides a straightforward, no-nonsense guide to installing and wiring an N2MB Wide Open Throttle (WOT) box on a 2015 Dodge Challenger RT equipped with Magnus supercharger technology. The host begins by explaining the initial step of creating custom harnesses for both the driver and passenger sides to tap into the ignition coils, which are identified as brown wires running closest to the cylinder head valve covers rather than the outer connector edges. Once these individual coil taps are established on each side, they are joined together before connecting to specific terminals on the WOT box: an orange wire from the unit links to the combined harness, while a yellow wire connects to an injector signal source chosen for ease of access through the firewall. The installation process continues with grounding and routing considerations inside the vehicle's cabin. A black wire from the WOT box is grounded after being extended by approximately two feet if necessary, while the final red wire under the hood must be connected to one of the cut coil wires left on the vehicle harness side. To route these connections into the passenger footwell without cluttering the engine bay excessively, the host demonstrates removing the entire glovebox assembly and its framing screws to access a grommet located behind the valve cover area near the firewall. This rubber grommet is slit open using a razor blade to allow wires to pass through before being reinstalled, ensuring a clean path for the harness running from under the hood down into the cabin. Inside the footwell, two remaining wires from the WOT box are connected directly to the accelerator and clutch pedals via specific pin locations on their respective connectors. The blue wire attaches to pin five of the gas pedal connector, identified by its white and brown color scheme, while a green wire connects to pin one of the three-pin clutch pedal connector, distinguished by its green and orange coloring. Additionally, if utilizing shift lights with this system, wiring is temporarily tucked under the dash near the door area until fully secured. The host also notes an important programming constraint specific to this vehicle's setup: unlike some other systems that retain power in accessory mode, this WOT box requires the engine to be running for full voltage and successful reading or writing of settings via its interface. In conclusion, despite being a direct-to-point tutorial without extensive fluff, the video serves as an effective resource for enthusiasts looking to upgrade their Challenger's performance with minimal lift shifts. The creator emphasizes that while the project takes several hours with proper tools, it is not overly difficult and offers exceptional value compared to more expensive two-step systems on the market. By providing clear visual references for wire colors, connector pins, and mounting locations, the guide aims to help viewers complete a high-quality installation that significantly enhances driving dynamics without requiring complex modifications beyond standard wiring practices.
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Why not? Let's Let's give it hell under the underpass. Go lift [ __ ] Oh my god, it's so [ __ ] Bad. Why not? Let's Let's give it hell. 100 under 100 under 100 under 100 under 100 pounds. No lift shift. >> [music] [music] >> What's up, racing fam? Hope everybody's having a blessed day. So, today we're going to jump straight into this kind of a no BS uh video. Straight to the point. We're just going to jump into exactly what you need to do, what wires you need to connect to to hook up your watt box to your Dodge Challenger. So, let's get to it. All right, so this is my 2015 Dodge Challenger RT Shaker. Uh, I call the car Mad Maggie because it's got a Magnus supercharger on it. So, before I cover up and kind of tuck and hide all these wires up, I wanted to to do this video just to see if I can help somebody out. So, the first thing you got to do is you have to make basically a passenger side and a driver side harness to tap into all your coils. Um, which is this red wire you see on both sides of my car. So, the first thing you got to do is make up that harness. And what you're going to do basically is you got to connect each coil to the harness that you make. And you're going to tap into the coil wire on every single coil. And it's kind of hard to see exactly what color these things are because of, you know, the age of the car, but they look like they're a brown and white wire, possibly a brown and yellow. Um, but the easiest way to put it would be you're tapping into the coil wire that's closest to the cylinder head. Okay? So, if you see how the plug is right here, it's the wire closest to the actual valve cover. Okay? So, not the wire closest to to the outside of the connector. So, it's the inside wire going towards the engine. And that's going to be the same on both sides. Now, once you make that harness up and you do that to both sides, you're going to conjoin those harnesses together, as you can kind of see right here. So, this is the driver side harness I made up. It looks identical to the passenger side. And then they're conjoined together, the driver's side and the passenger side. And what you're going to do is connect that to the orange wire on the WOT box. Okay? So that is what the orange wire is for. The yellow wire is going to connect to an injector signal. Okay? So, your yellow wire, your yellow wire from your WOT box will connect to an injector signal wire. Okay. So, again, the yellow wire from the WOT box will connect to it can be any injector, but I chose to do the back passenger side injector because that's where all the wires is coming through the firewall, and it's just going to make it easier. and and a nicer cleanup job once I cover everything up. But that yellow wire will connect to um an injector signal wire. And on my car, again, this is a 2015 Dodge Challenger. They'll probably be similar. Um the color it appears to be, it looks like a brown and blue wire. And another way I could tell you is it would be the wire on the right side of the connector towards the red safety clip. So what I did, as you can see, is I used a blue scotch pinch clip to connect that spot right there. Um, everything else I soldered together. Um, but this particular connection and two others inside the car, I just chose to use a pinch clip because it's just um I I could have soldered this, no questions, but it's just easier right there. Um, instead of trying to solder in a in a cramped spot right there, um, I just pinch clipped it. If it becomes an issue down the road, I'll solder it. But on my on my Ram truck that I race all the time, it's hooked up the same way. Um, however, it's it's a uh it's a different two-step system. It is not the uh the WOT box that we have installed on this car. Um, but however, that's how that is wired there. And then you will have a black wire coming out of the WOT box. That black wire I ran over here to this ground location. You can see the wire and it's just grounded right here. And that is all that wire needs to do. I did have to lengthen it. I had to add about 2 ft of black wire um to make that work. But that is where we mounted that. All right. And then what that leaves under the hood is the last red wire coming out of the WOT box. Um, so the red wire coming out of the watt box is going to connect to, and it can be any of the coil wires that you cut. Um, cuz again, when you wire up this harness, you're cutting each one of those coil wires. So, you're going to be left with um, per se, like you can still see this one pretty easily. Um, you can see where we cut the the harness on the car side. So you got that leftover wire sticking out. Um, so what I did is I used the back one obviously cuz all my wires is corner. So the red wire from the Watt box is going to connect to one of those coil wires that you cut um on the vehicle harness side. So that's all you're going to do is connect that red wire to one of the coil wires on the vehicle harness side. Um, so that is pretty much it under the hood as far as connections go. So, we're going to go inside and um get that one. All right. So, we mounted Bear with me on that glare. Got a bad glare coming in from the sun over there. And it's kind of dark. So, we mounted the watt box right there, as you can see. And in the back, we drilled a hole to run our wiring harness through the grommet on the passenger side um firewall. And I will go back and show you exactly where that grommet is. Um because I did forget to do that. Um but to be able to do that, if you want to do it this way, you do have to completely remove the glove box compartment out. Okay. So, you're going to pop that out. Pretty straightforward. And then you got to remove the actual glove box. Um, I would call it the framing. So, you got to pull these screws out along the edge here behind this cover. There's a couple screws. And then you can remove this entire glove box section, which pretty much exposes the uh the rear firewall area um to where you can, you know, one get this box out and actually uh drill a hole with the glove box compartment completely out. Um so it's easier and run your wiring back there. And because I do have a shift light, um, I have the shift light plugged into the W box. And that wiring I just kind of tucked out the door here for temporarily. It's tucked down right here. And I got it kind of pinched under the dash here. As you can see, the little LED poking up. Um, so that's kind of kind of what I did for the uh W box shift light. All right. So, for the grommet, the grommet, as you can see, is right back there on the passenger side, right behind pretty much the valve cover area. Um, so what you're going to do is take a just really take a um a razor blade. You're going to slit that and make an area so you can tuck wires through it. Um, and it is double-sided, so you will have to slit the outside and slit the inside part also. And to do that, what I did is, you can see how that big rubber section, you can actually just um, grab that from inside the hood compartment area and pop that whole grommet out. And that actually makes it easier to do that. And run the wires through the grommet. and then pop the rubber grommet back into the firewall. That was the easiest way for me to do it. All right. So then that just leaves two wires now that come from the W box. So and they're going to connect on the driver's side floorboard area. Um one wire will connect to your gas pedal um connector and the other wire will connect to your clutch pedal connector. So, I'm going to put up a picture of what that looks like and go over it with you real quick. So, hang tight. So, the blue wire from the watt box is going to wire up to the gas pedal connector that's on top of the gas pedal under the floorboard right there. And it's a fivewire connector and it's going to be pin number five. And the color is a white and brown wire. Um, that is going to be where you tap into the blue wire for the gas pedal. Then for the clutch pedal, you're going to be looking for a three pin wire connector. And it's kind of way up in the top there as you see um to the left side of that other connector. It's still plugged in. Um, but it's a three- wire connector. And it's going to be pin number one. And the color is green and orange. That is where you're going to wire up the green wire for the clutch pedal. And that is pretty much it as far as all the wiring goes. All right. So, hopefully that helps you out. I know this is kind of a I'm not going to say one of my best videos. It's kind of just straight to the point. Uh, no BS, like I said. Just breaks down, you know, what wires do what, what wires go where. That's that's pretty much the basics of it. Um, so other than that, I really hope the video helps somebody out that's trying to tackle this job themsel. It's It's really not hard. It took, you know, I'd say a good few hours with the proper tools and and the time to do it. Um, other than that, the only thing uh you may run into that that um I was questioning and thought was an issue, but ended up not being an issue is when you go to program the W box. Um, I thought you could just have the car like accessory switch on without it running to program it and that does not work. Um, the box does not retain power constantly. Um, when you just have the car in accessory or run mode, um, the box will power up and then go right back off. The only time the box will have full power and you can program it and read and write to it is the car has to be running. Um, so just throwing that in there. Um, I kind of went around in circles with that trying to figure out what was up. And, uh, that's pretty much all it is. The car just the car has to be running for it to uh, read and write, at least on this car and the way it's wired, which is the way it's supposed to be wired. So, um, other than that, again, hope it helps you out. I definitely recommend it. It's probably the best 200 bucks I've ever spent. And uh it's it's just it's amazing. It's an amazing product. It's literally half the price of other two steps out there. And this thing does a heck of a lot more. Um the no lift shifts is just, you know, if you got a three pedal fun factory car, it's sick. It is just it's pure sick. Um so yeah, there's that. So other than that, we'll see you guys on the next one. >> [music] [music] >> Damn, that's badass. That is so freaking badass. God damn fat ass.