Video summary
This video provides a straightforward, no-nonsense guide to installing and wiring an N2MB Wide Open Throttle (WOT) box on a 2015 Dodge Challenger RT equipped with Magnus supercharger technology. The host begins by explaining the initial step of creating custom harnesses for both the driver and passenger sides to tap into the ignition coils, which are identified as brown wires running closest to the cylinder head valve covers rather than the outer connector edges. Once these individual coil taps are established on each side, they are joined together before connecting to specific terminals on the WOT box: an orange wire from the unit links to the combined harness, while a yellow wire connects to an injector signal source chosen for ease of access through the firewall.
The installation process continues with grounding and routing considerations inside the vehicle's cabin. A black wire from the WOT box is grounded after being extended by approximately two feet if necessary, while the final red wire under the hood must be connected to one of the cut coil wires left on the vehicle harness side. To route these connections into the passenger footwell without cluttering the engine bay excessively, the host demonstrates removing the entire glovebox assembly and its framing screws to access a grommet located behind the valve cover area near the firewall. This rubber grommet is slit open using a razor blade to allow wires to pass through before being reinstalled, ensuring a clean path for the harness running from under the hood down into the cabin.
Inside the footwell, two remaining wires from the WOT box are connected directly to the accelerator and clutch pedals via specific pin locations on their respective connectors. The blue wire attaches to pin five of the gas pedal connector, identified by its white and brown color scheme, while a green wire connects to pin one of the three-pin clutch pedal connector, distinguished by its green and orange coloring. Additionally, if utilizing shift lights with this system, wiring is temporarily tucked under the dash near the door area until fully secured. The host also notes an important programming constraint specific to this vehicle's setup: unlike some other systems that retain power in accessory mode, this WOT box requires the engine to be running for full voltage and successful reading or writing of settings via its interface.
In conclusion, despite being a direct-to-point tutorial without extensive fluff, the video serves as an effective resource for enthusiasts looking to upgrade their Challenger's performance with minimal lift shifts. The creator emphasizes that while the project takes several hours with proper tools, it is not overly difficult and offers exceptional value compared to more expensive two-step systems on the market. By providing clear visual references for wire colors, connector pins, and mounting locations, the guide aims to help viewers complete a high-quality installation that significantly enhances driving dynamics without requiring complex modifications beyond standard wiring practices.
Read the full video transcript
Why not? Let's Let's give it hell under
the underpass. Go lift [ __ ]
Oh my god, it's so [ __ ] Bad.
Why not? Let's Let's give it hell. 100
under 100 under 100 under 100 under 100
pounds. No lift shift.
>> [music]
[music]
>> What's up, racing fam? Hope everybody's
having a blessed day. So, today we're
going to jump straight into this kind of
a no BS
uh video. Straight to the point. We're
just going to jump into exactly what you
need to do, what wires you need to
connect to to hook up your watt box to
your Dodge Challenger. So, let's get to
it. All right, so this is my 2015
Dodge Challenger RT Shaker. Uh, I call
the car Mad Maggie because it's got a
Magnus supercharger on it.
So, before I cover up and kind of tuck
and hide all these wires up, I wanted to
to do this video just to see if I can
help somebody out. So, the first thing
you got to do is you have to make
basically a passenger side and a driver
side harness to tap into all your coils.
Um, which is this red wire you see on
both sides of
my car.
So,
the first thing you got to do
is make up that harness. And what you're
going to do basically is you got to
connect each coil
to the harness that you make. And you're
going to tap into the coil wire on every
single coil.
And it's kind of hard to see exactly
what color these things are because of,
you know, the age of the car, but they
look like they're a brown and white
wire, possibly a brown and yellow. Um,
but the easiest way to put it would be
you're tapping into the coil wire that's
closest to the cylinder head. Okay? So,
if you see how the plug is right here,
it's the wire closest to
the actual valve cover. Okay? So, not
the wire closest to to
the outside of the connector. So, it's
the inside wire going towards the
engine. And that's going to be the same
on both sides. Now, once you make that
harness up and you do that to both
sides,
you're going to conjoin those harnesses
together, as you can kind of see right
here.
So, this is the driver side harness I
made up. It looks identical to the
passenger side. And then they're
conjoined together, the driver's side
and the passenger side. And what you're
going to do is connect that to the
orange wire on the WOT box. Okay? So
that is what the orange wire is for. The
yellow wire
is going to connect to an injector
signal. Okay? So, your yellow wire, your
yellow wire from your WOT box will
connect to
an injector signal wire.
Okay. So, again, the yellow wire from
the WOT box will connect to it can be
any injector, but I chose to do the back
passenger side injector because that's
where all the wires is coming through
the firewall, and it's just going to
make it easier. and and a nicer cleanup
job once I cover everything up. But that
yellow wire will connect to um an
injector signal wire. And on my car,
again, this is a 2015 Dodge Challenger.
They'll probably be similar. Um the
color it appears to be, it looks like a
brown and blue wire. And
another way I could tell you is it would
be the wire on the right side of the
connector towards the red safety clip.
So what I did, as you can see, is I used
a blue scotch pinch clip to connect that
spot right there. Um, everything else I
soldered together. Um, but this
particular connection and two others
inside the car, I just chose to use a
pinch clip because it's just um I I
could have soldered this, no questions,
but it's just easier right there. Um,
instead of trying to solder in a in a
cramped spot right there, um, I just
pinch clipped it. If it becomes an issue
down the road, I'll solder it. But on my
on my Ram truck that I race all the
time, it's hooked up the same way. Um,
however, it's it's a uh it's a different
two-step system. It is not the uh the
WOT box that we have installed on this
car. Um, but however, that's how that is
wired there. And then you will have a
black wire coming out of the WOT box.
That black wire I ran over here to this
ground location. You can see the wire
and it's just grounded right here. And
that is all that wire needs to do. I did
have to lengthen it. I had to add about
2 ft of black wire um to make that work.
But that is where we mounted that.
All right. And then what that leaves
under the hood is the last red wire
coming out of the WOT box. Um, so the
red wire coming out of the watt box is
going to connect to, and it can be any
of the coil wires that you cut. Um, cuz
again, when you wire up this harness,
you're cutting each one of those coil
wires. So, you're going to be left with
um, per se, like you can still see this
one pretty easily. Um,
you can see where we cut the the harness
on the car side. So you got that
leftover wire sticking out. Um, so what
I did is I used the back one obviously
cuz all my wires is corner. So the red
wire from the Watt box is going to
connect to one of those coil wires that
you cut
um on the vehicle harness side. So
that's all you're going to do is connect
that red wire to one of the coil wires
on the vehicle harness side. Um, so that
is pretty much it under the hood as far
as connections go. So, we're going to go
inside and
um get that one.
All right. So, we mounted
Bear with me on that glare. Got a bad
glare coming in from the sun over there.
And it's kind of dark. So, we mounted
the watt box right there, as you can
see.
And in the back, we drilled a hole to
run our wiring harness through the
grommet on the passenger side um
firewall. And I will go back and show
you exactly where that grommet is. Um
because I did forget to do that. Um but
to be able to do that, if you want to do
it this way, you do have to completely
remove the glove box compartment out.
Okay. So, you're going to pop that out.
Pretty straightforward. And then you got
to remove the actual glove box. Um, I
would call it the framing. So, you got
to pull these screws out along the edge
here behind this cover. There's a couple
screws. And then you can remove this
entire glove box section, which pretty
much exposes the uh the rear firewall
area um to where you can, you know, one
get this box out and actually
uh drill a hole
with the glove box compartment
completely out. Um so it's easier and
run your wiring back there.
And because I do have a shift light, um,
I have the shift light plugged into the
W box. And that wiring I just kind of
tucked out the door here for
temporarily.
It's tucked down right here. And I got
it kind of pinched under
the dash here. As you can see, the
little LED poking up. Um, so that's kind
of kind of what I did
for the uh W box shift light.
All right. So, for the grommet,
the grommet, as you can see, is right
back there on the passenger side, right
behind pretty much the valve cover area.
Um, so what you're going to do is take a
just really take a um a razor blade.
You're going to slit that and make an
area so you can tuck wires through it.
Um, and it is double-sided, so you will
have to slit the outside and slit the
inside part also. And to do that, what I
did is, you can see how that big rubber
section, you can actually just
um, grab that from inside the hood
compartment area and pop that whole
grommet out. And that actually makes it
easier to do that. And run the wires
through the grommet. and then pop the
rubber grommet back into the firewall.
That was the easiest way for me to do
it.
All right. So then that just leaves two
wires now that come from the W box. So
and they're going to connect on the
driver's side floorboard area. Um one
wire will connect to your gas pedal
um connector and the other wire will
connect to your clutch pedal connector.
So, I'm going to put up a picture of
what that looks like and go over it with
you real quick. So, hang tight. So, the
blue wire from the watt box is going to
wire up to the gas pedal connector
that's on top of the gas pedal under the
floorboard right there. And it's a
fivewire connector and it's going to be
pin number five. And the color is a
white and brown wire. Um, that is going
to be where you tap into the blue wire
for the gas pedal.
Then for the clutch pedal, you're going
to be looking for a three pin wire
connector. And it's kind of way up in
the top there as you see um to the left
side of that other connector. It's still
plugged in. Um, but it's a three- wire
connector. And it's going to be pin
number one. And the color is green and
orange. That is where you're going to
wire up the green wire for the clutch
pedal. And that is pretty much it as far
as all the wiring goes.
All right. So, hopefully that helps you
out. I know this is kind of a I'm not
going to say one of my best videos. It's
kind of just straight to the point. Uh,
no BS, like I said. Just breaks down,
you know, what wires do what, what wires
go where. That's that's pretty much the
basics of it. Um,
so other than that, I really hope the
video helps somebody out that's trying
to tackle this job themsel. It's It's
really not hard. It took, you know, I'd
say a good few hours with the proper
tools and and the time to do it. Um,
other than that, the only thing uh you
may run into that that um I was
questioning and thought was an issue,
but ended up not being an issue is when
you go to program the W box. Um, I
thought you could just have the car like
accessory switch on without it running
to program it and that does not work.
Um, the box does not retain power
constantly. Um, when you just have the
car in accessory or run mode, um, the
box will power up and then go right back
off. The only time the box will have
full power and you can program it and
read and write to it is the car has to
be running. Um, so just throwing that in
there. Um, I kind of went around in
circles with that trying to figure out
what was up. And, uh, that's pretty much
all it is. The car just the car has to
be running for it to uh, read and write,
at least on this car and the way it's
wired, which is the way it's supposed to
be wired. So, um, other than that,
again, hope it helps you out. I
definitely recommend it. It's probably
the best 200 bucks I've ever spent. And
uh it's it's just it's amazing. It's an
amazing product. It's literally half the
price of other two steps out there. And
this thing does a heck of a lot more. Um
the no lift shifts is just, you know, if
you got a three pedal fun factory car,
it's sick. It is just it's pure sick. Um
so yeah, there's that. So other than
that, we'll see you guys on the next
one.
>> [music]
[music]
>> Damn, that's badass.
That is so freaking badass. God
damn fat ass.