I believe in humanity -The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route-Part 3

Hello and welcome to episode 3 of my adventure on the Great Divide mountain bike route. [music] So far, everything has gone smoothly and I've made enough noise to avoid any grizzly bear encounters. Happy Thursday, grizzly bears. In this episode, I make my way from Oando to the Llama Ranch, one of my favorite places on the entire route. You'll see why when I get there. I got to say this is the most comfortable sheep wagon I've ever slept in. Looks [music] like a beautiful day. Let's go check out the world. Oh, what a fun place to wake up. And I think I'm the only person up right now in Oando. The metropolis of Oando. Stray Bullet here opens up in about 45 minutes and I will be [music] the first customer. Hash browns, pancakes, sunny side up. Woo! [cheering] First things first, [music] lots of this. Oh yeah. You know, when I do these bike rides, I get hungry because I'm burning so many calories every day. And then my engine is going and then every single meal is like the best meal I've ever had. And that even goes for like crappy energy bars. They all taste amazing when you're hungry. Look at that. Look at that. Oh dear. Oh, can I fit it all in my mouth? M. And the sun is shining. It's going to be a great day. Oh, look at this cute town dog. Just walked up to the door. He wants some eggs and bacon, too. Hey, buddy. Hey. >> He wants bacon. >> He wants bacon. That's so cute. Does he come by every morning? >> Yeah. >> Get your bacon every morning, huh? >> Uh, sometimes in the afternoon, but [laughter] >> you're so cute, buddy. You're so cool. Yeah. Okay, thank you. Super cozy sheep wagon. I'm on my way. Kathy, thank you so much for everything. You are amazing. Oando is one of my favorite little towns in the whole world. >> Oh, thank you so much. That pleases me to know. And we've worked really hard to keep this a little cute town. And hopefully we're succeeding. >> Yeah. And seriously, I wish you could stay over for the 4th of July cuz I think you'd find that we'd even decorate your bicycle and put you in the in the parade. >> Someday I'll come back. I promise. >> Okay. You're the best. Oh, Sarah, thank you. >> Always good to see you. >> Thanks for what you do for everybody, you know. I know you you're so kind to me, but you're you're just as kind to everybody that comes through here. >> Thank you. Be careful out there. >> I will be. And I'll remember you all the way down to Analopee Wells and beyond. I'll remember you longer than that. >> Okay, bye. Oh man, I am leaving with a full belly and a full heart. What a spot. So glad that I finally got to spend the night here. Looks like we have a beautiful morning today. Sun is in the sky. I'm going to head to the Llama Ranch. Another one of my favorite spots here in Montana. Just about 60 mi. So, a little less mileage today than the past 2 days, which is nice. So, let's go have a good one. No crashies, no flatties, no whammies. It's been raining a lot in this area lately and I can smell the sage in the air as I ride through. It smells so good. I love sage. It also has nostalgic value. When I was 16, I did an outwardbound 23-day adventure and that was like my first taste of the great outdoors and I learned a lot of the leave no trace skills that I still use today. And I remember for the first time smelling desert sage on that adventure. It's one of my favorite smells in the world. And whenever I can, I like to pick sage and take it with me. It's always been for me just a bit of a good luck charm. And it smells so good. This is coming with me all the way. And this morning I learned some pretty tragic news. There was a Tour Divide racer who was hit by a car 60 miles from the Mexican border. She was almost done. Alyssa Secretto. I [snorts] actually rode with her when I did the race in 2024. Look who we found. It's Alyssa. How you doing, girl? >> I'm cold and I'm angry. [laughter] >> How are you? >> I would say I'm pretty cold and angry, too. Yeah. This is we I've had enough of this. >> We've been in the freezing rain for I don't know like six hours today maybe. >> And she's in pretty rough condition. She was airlifted to El Paso. She's going to survive from what I can tell so far. But man, it just goes to show that everything can change in an instant and I really need to be on guard. Make sure my lights are on when I'm on roads sharing with cars. And I know the no whammies chant is silly, but it's my way of just warding off any type of bad luck. And now that I have some sage, I feel a little bit better. Um, but yeah, everything life is fragile. Life is really fragile and being out here is a gift and being healthy and strong and having the privilege of doing this is an absolute gift because it can all be taken away in an instant. So, I'm thinking of you today, Alyssa. Sending you all my love. Sending you my good sage luck. [music] Montana is called big sky country. And when I first heard that, I didn't quite get it cuz I'm like, doesn't every place have the same amount of sky? But no, Montana definitely has more sky. It just seems so wide open and vast and it really feels like, you know, when you're watching a widescreen TV. That's how it feels with my eyeballs right now. I feel like I'm seeing more. And I can see why people love Montana. It just invokes that spirit of the American West of freedom. Good morning. You look nice in the morning light here, ladies. Yeah. Okay, enough of the flat riding. Now I'm going to head up Huckleberry Pass. There it is. [music] Hey, there he is. My shadow. How you doing, bud? Let's keep on going up this thing. No big deal. [music] I have really good memories of riding up this with John and Meera in 2020. mirror jumping in and out of the basket and running alongside us and just being a fun dog. You know, at least for me, I'm always in a good mood when I'm around a dog. Dogs are so fun and playful, and I feed off their energy, and mirror has some of the best energy. Oh, I love my mirror hugs on the middle of a big steep hill. Good to see you, B. You're doing great. Yeah. Are we almost there? I also remember a bunch of 4x4s whipping by, kicking up dust. Haven't experienced that yet, so that's good. Although, it is Friday the 3rd, the day before the 4th of July, so I imagine there's going to be a lot of people out recreating today. Okay, we're gaining some altitude. You can see way down there. Gosh, that's beautiful. [music] Getting higher. You know what I'm really enjoying right now is the crisp, cool mountain air. It just it tastes clean, if that makes sense. It's just so pure. I'm really enjoying it. And I'm guessing because this area got so much rain lately that uh the forest is happy, the flowers are blooming, and early summer is in full effect. And it's not too hot. Not hot at all right now in the shade especially. It just feels really nice. And I also read this morning that there's some major fires in Colorado, my home state. major. So, the air there is definitely not good and I hope that those fires get extinguished for for multiple reasons obviously um but also for me so I can go through Colorado safely cuz I don't want to be biking through toxic smoky air. Thank you my first 4x4s, but they were very polite and went slow so they didn't kick up dirt. Thank you. [snorts] Montana people are cool. You know, now for everybody's favorite downhill. Woo! Yeah, baby. WHAT'S UP, BROTHER? >> OH, so good to see you. I was hoping I'd run into you. >> Oh, man. I was just riding down this this road just in my own zone and saw a tour divider. How you doing? What's your name? >> My name's Scott. >> Right on, brother. >> You are the reason I'm doing this crazy long ride. >> Well, are you are you happy with it? >> I'm super happy with it. >> What have you loved most? >> People, scenery, sleeping in a tent for a month and a half. >> So, you started at the beginning. I started Analopee Wells. >> Congrats, brother. [laughter] >> Thank you very much. >> You're getting there. >> I'm I can smell it. >> Oh, that's so [laughter] cool. And I've been asking everybody this question. How do you get through hard times? And it doesn't have to be specifically this route, but in life, like, how do you get over tough times? >> God helps a lot. I talk to God a lot. He helps me out. >> Right on. Have you had any tough moments on this trip? >> Yeah, of course. Of course. I rode through Colorado where you're from. >> Right on. >> Nothing flat there. >> Yeah, that's right. That's right, man. So, you're going to finish up in B. Go all the way. >> I'm going to B. That's the goal. >> You're amazing, man. You're amazing. >> You're amazing. [clears throat] You got me here, man. I had never done bike packing till a year ago. >> Really? >> I did a ride across Arizona in 12 days and loved it. So, now I'm doing this. >> And now you're hooked. >> I'm hooked. >> Right on. >> Everybody's waiting for you at the llama ranch. [laughter] They all know you're coming. >> All right. So, we're going to make a video for his mother, Pam, cuz I guess she likes my videos as well. >> Mom, somebody's got to say hi to you. >> Pam, this is Ryan Van Dooer. I just wanted to say hi and thank you so much for watching my videos. I'm sending you a big hug. Your son is amazing. And maybe someday I'll meet you in real life. Ole. O >> o. Have a great day. Happy 4th of July. >> Happy 4th early. >> Cheers, man. >> Okay, time for some pavement. I'm heading into Lincoln and then I will continue on to the Llama Ranch. Okay, I've mentioned the Llama Ranch a few times now, so maybe it's time to tell you why I'm so excited to get there. First of all, it's trail magic heaven. John and Barbara dedicate their summers to serving the needs of hungry and tired [music] bikers and hikers. They offer a place to shower, cozy cabins stocked with treats. [music] There's cute animals, and the fridge on their front porch is always loaded with homemade sandwiches [music] and drinks. Also, everything is free. They simply ask for guests to pay the kindness and generosity forward. I first stumbled upon this oasis with John and Meera in 2020, and have stayed in touch with them ever since. Okay, now it's time to go up Stumple Pass. I turned off that road. Hopefully most of the 4x4s will stick to the main road and I'll have this to myself. Either way, I'm happy to be here. It's a beautiful day. My legs are strong and we're going to go up a mountain. This temple pass I forgot gets steep real quick. Lots of loose rocks. Smells like Christmas trees in here. And you know, it's July 3rd, which means we're closer to Christmas than we are further from it. And I love Christmas, man. It is beautiful. >> [music] >> I had to get off my bike just to experience it a little quieter. The bike makes some noise, you know, and now I can hear the river and that's about it. I can see the puffy clouds floating by. I can hear the buzz of the flies every now and then. I'm really, really enjoying this. And these flowers are my absolute favorites. I've been seeing these quite a bit for the past day and a half and I love them. Little cotton balls, snow cones. This here is a good spot to sit and eat some of my favorite snack, dried mangoes. Brought these from home. I don't know if I'll be able to find a whole lot of dried mangoes along the way, so I got to enjoy the last of these. The last time I did this pass in 2024, I was at the end of a 130 mile day after five 100 mile days. Hadn't slept the night before cuz my air mattress popped. And when I got here, my legs were screaming at me. I was in so much pain and I was just so dejected. It was rough. So, I might be having my lowest low of the trip so far. This is unbelievably difficult for me right now. But today is a different story. I feel much better. I feel stronger. That's what happens when you don't go at race pace and you just take your time. And that really is the reason why I wanted to do this route again on my own terms, you know, so I could enjoy it more. Yes. Woohoo. Stumple path. Ah, feels good. Woo! It is so beautiful. Hey, [screaming] what's up, Randy? It's my favorite people. Oh, wow. Good to see you, Barbara. Good to see you. >> Made it. Great to see you, man. >> Oh, we're reunited once again. I love this. And Rodney, how you doing, buddy? Good to see you, man. Good see. >> How's life, everybody? She's got the pink shirt on. >> I know. Oh, that's Look at that. You got the team doozer ragbr shirt on. >> And your socks. >> Oh, and the socks. Let's see. Oh, yeah. Well, I'm wearing the socks, too. Check that out. >> Feels good. I feel like I'm home, Barbara. >> A, you're so sweet. >> It really does. >> Well, >> this is exciting. >> And we even made you vegetarian sandwiches. >> Ooh, thank you. Barbara is so kind. Look in the fridge >> for Ryan Van Doozer. That's me. You made these with love, didn't you? >> Yes, I did. Thank you so much. >> So, you two are some of my favorite people. I've been coming here since 2020. Now, Barbara is nervous. I can tell. Look at her. Look at her hands. She is so generous, but she doesn't love cameras. We're going to make this as easy as possible. >> What was marginally interesting about that was you came during the co year. >> Yeah. >> You know, and so we didn't have that many people and uh John had come over the border somehow, right, Freeman? And uh and I remember you saying something about, you know, we don't get very many uh >> foreigners or whatever. And you pointed to Ryan John goes, "Oh, I'm the Canadian." >> That's right. >> And now you get a lot of foreigners. How have things changed since 2020? >> We have a bath house. [laughter] >> We have a lot more hikers. >> Yeah. >> And uh a lot more foreigners. Yeah, for sure. Yeah, we have a bath house and no tepee anymore. The teepee's gone. Well, and then uh I think that year we might have had like 225 people. Uh and the last year we had 916 people, right? So that's a big difference from 2020. Yeah. >> Yeah. And I think it was all because of the filming that you did and put us on the map. So thank you for that. >> Yeah. Well, what you're doing is just so generous. I think it inspires people, you know. I think what you do we all wish we had a little more of. you have this tell us about your philosophy of paying it forward >> because we do want to inspire people. It is a good thing to host cyclists and let them into your your world, your yard, your whatever and and uh you know give them >> sandwiches or something to drink. And >> I think over the years we we've sort of formulated this mission of paying it forward, right? Mhm. >> And so the thing that's kind of neat about that is I like to think that, you know, and we talked about it last time, this love and kindness that we have here spreading out in the world, you know, through the cyclists as as our ambassadors. So we had 916 people if they embrace that philosophy. There's 916 good things happening out into the world. You know, >> we hope so. >> We hope so. Yeah. >> Oh, I I met a woman today who said that. She said she stayed here last night and the first thing she said to me is, you know, I'm excited to go home and pay it forward. >> Yeah. >> Yeah. We hope it we hope it has sustaining value. You know, that they do actually remember that that was our message and that was our reason for doing this. >> And I think humanity as a whole needs like a hopeful story like this to know that there's people out here that are helping >> for no other reason than just to be kind, right? Kindness is a good thing. >> Yeah. But but I I wonder, you know, how many stories there are out into the world, right? Because it isn't something that's published every everywhere. You know, we may have millions and billions of people that are just as kind and just as friendly, you know. Yeah. >> Yeah. And I believe that there are Yeah. But you just happen to be on the Great Divide mountain bike route and, [laughter] you know, serving to cyclists. >> So, how did this all how did this idea come about? >> Hosting. >> Hosting. Yeah. We are lucky enough to live in this gorgeous place where right on the route. It's right there, right off our driveway. And so, uh, people just go by all the time and stop in and >> with their bikes and need a place or need something. Sometimes they just need a band-aid, you know. >> Yeah. But if you go far enough back, it was your generosity ultimately that you purchased the cabin and had it brought down and started that whole thing. And if it weren't for that cabin, I wouldn't be sitting next to you probably. >> True. >> Oh, let's hear this story. >> [laughter] >> He did the great div by mountain bike route and came by and stopped uh here and said he wanted to uh not be that guy that says I'm going to help out here and then not help out. So he wanted to do something and I was chinking the cabin. So he said, "Well, I'll come back and help you the cabin." So he came back and helped and then um we just corresponded for like 6 months or a year and then he came back again and kind of stayed after that. >> Yeah. Yeah. In the original video, I I will repeat what I said. I'm the cyclist who has stayed here the longest, [laughter] 10 years now at this point. Yeah. >> And so when we talk about setting a record for staying here, I always tell people that second place is seven nights, right? If you want first place, you got to do you got to get rid of me and then stay for 10 10 years. >> Right. >> How many places do you have for people to stay? What are all the different accommodations? Well, we have a total of 15 beds and we have six uh accommodations. >> We've got a sheep herders wagon. We've got a number of cabins and then the the first um log cabin. >> And you make sandwiches every single day. Is that true? >> I mean, the season might slow down later in the summer and more to a trickle, but yeah, I still make sandwiches every day. >> We had 916 people last year and I think Barbara made 45,528 sandwiches. Your message is kindness and I'm sure you've stayed in touch with a lot of people that have been through here. I'm one of them. You know, I came through just like any regular rider and we've stayed in touch and we email and we you you call me on my birthday sometimes. >> I think I sent you some birthday cards. >> Yeah, you did. Birthday cards. >> Yeah. With money just like Just like my uncle. >> Yeah. Um or do you Does this happen with other people? I'm guessing >> Oh, it sure does. Yeah, it's very it it enriches our lives to no end. It's just wonderful. People are generous. They do get home. >> I think that's what endears me. It just they get all the way home to wherever, you know, some other country and they remember us and they send us a Christmas card or a small gift or here comes a cyclist right now. >> Um yeah, it's just wonderful to do. Well, one our one of our frequently asked questions is do people get back with us and talk about their pay it forward and and my favorite story is we had a guy from New Zealand who stayed with us and uh he was intent on going back to New Zealand and firing one of his employees. Okay. So the next year he came back and stopped and told us what happened. He went back there inspired by what we do here and decided to give his employee another chance and that employee thrived. And it's very cool to think that there's somebody in New Zealand whose life has changed, you know, because of, you know, his boss staying here. I mean, that's a significant, you know, change, you know. >> Yeah. And we know they're not all that significant, but but it's nice to know that happens. It can happen. >> There's some good that can happen. Pay it forward even around the world. >> And are there llamas at this ranch? >> No, there are no more llamas. We have alpacas. It's the alpaca farm, not the llama ranch. [laughter] Yeah, we're registered as the Alpaca Farm Guest Ranch now with with Montana. >> Yes, we are. >> But uh you're people who are familiar with trail names is you're given a trail name. So we were our trail name was the Llama Ranch. You can never get rid of your trail trail name. So >> and we're on maps as the llama. >> The llama ranch. It's just funny. But yeah, it stuck and we can't get rid of it. >> Well, you two are so amazing. I am lucky that I met you six years ago. I made it a point to come here again on this trip >> and I just I'm so excited just to you know be your friend and and you know >> stay in touch and send birthday cards to each other. [laughter] >> My pleasure. >> So thank you for everything you do not just from me but from everybody. >> It's our great pleasure. >> So this is my room. I get a bunk bed. I'm going to sleep on the top bunk. And check it out. They have Polaroid camera so you can take photos of yourself and leave them here which is such a cool touch. I love that. And look at this. They even have a jar full of candy goodies. And for the alcohol drinkers, there's a bottle of white and red wine, a full kitchen with the butane stove, and a sink and fresh water. And that is the truth. So, this is my new friend, Reed. We met last night in Noando when you rolled in at 9:30 p.m. [laughter] You're a late riser, huh? Yes, I I hate the mornings so much. Uh much despite my uh like travel partner who loves mornings and so he's been very kind about letting us sleep in every day. [laughter] So, >> what inspired you to do this grand adventure? >> Yeah, I mean I just I love the outdoors. I love biking. I love the wilderness. Um and I love pushing myself to the limits um of what's possible. And so I think that this is everything in one. >> Yeah. How's it been so far? >> It's been awesome. It's been really hard. A few days, a few tears, you know, lots of rain, lots of sunshine though, lots of fun meeting people, and yeah, overall it's been fantastic. So, >> you mentioned hard, and one of the questions I've been asking everybody on this trip is how do you get through hard moments in life? Doesn't have to be specific to this trail, but what gets you through those moments where you're like, I don't know if I can do this. >> Feel like life's been really hard lately, um, you know, the last couple years. So, uh, we talked about this before. uh before like got on camera, but as a trans guy in America right now, um life is just hard. Like every little thing is hard. Like I'm actually it's a lot of places I visit, it's illegal to use the bathroom. Um so if you think about every time I take my shirt off, I'm worried about someone finding out or someone um yeah, like just deciding that I've tricked them by as and then they decide to cause physical harm, you know, it's just it's like it's compounding. So, I'd say that everyday life is kind of hard in a way and uh you get through it by just finding joy like you in every little moment that you possibly can. Um >> and especially the small things and so I'd say that that's kind of >> part of my whole journey with this is finding joy and being joyful because joy is resistance and so to say Yeah. to just keep being happy and joyful. >> Yeah. Yeah. So, yeah. >> And as a trans man, >> Yeah. >> What's it I mean, all the legislation that's going on, all this it's it's just evil. It's mean. >> Yes, it is. >> You know, it's close-minded and it's fear. >> Yeah. Absolutely. >> But you're riding with joy and you're riding with love and you're meeting people face to face here on the ground. Like, what does that what does that mean to you? >> Yeah. It's like it's both a mix of like I want to show up for my community as like a as an outspoken person, which is why I got into TikTok and spreading trans joy. >> Um it's like I want to be visible because I think that the more people that know a trans person, the less scared they become. >> Um but then I also like this trip has been interesting with the small towns that we've been going through. It's like how how openly do I let myself be that way? It's nerve-wracking. Like I think uh you know I've talked to my buddy Ed who's with me a lot about it. It's you know my anxiety in every town that we go through is so high. Um and it's just wild how we start to leave town and it just kind of calms down >> and it's like I'm trying to find that right balance of being outspoken and like visible but safe. And so like when we have people asking for you know my Instagram handles and things like that and Strava to follow it's you know I have to like be kind of judge like think about it cautiously and it's and I'm ultimately though then I'm judging the person based on their appearances. They may be super supportive but it's just hard. It's just and with the way the legislation is, it's people are so much more quick to react um negatively or aggressively um um around particularly trans people because they're just afraid of us and they >> um yeah, and it's a bummer. >> The hatred that's been become inflamed is just um >> it's it's like next level. I I can genuinely say I used to travel without fear. Um, and since Trump became president, it's just the the fear has just >> exponentially um, [snorts] >> uh, yeah, it's just exponentially worse. Um, and then I think of and then I here I am a white guy and I I just think of all the trans women in the world that maybe don't quote unquote pass and I just want to be out for them and like a voice for them because at the end of the day, they have it even harder. And then the trans kids in this world that are just being villainized for just trying to live. Like I have this little buddy that I I have a couple kids that I mentor and that just mean the world to me and if someone just gave them like five minutes >> um their lives would be changed. So >> Oh, can I give you a hug? [laughter] >> Oh, I'm so glad I met you. So glad I met you. >> Yeah. >> Oh, and I'm Yeah. >> So kind of out here doing it for everyone. [laughter] Yeah, absolutely. >> Myself included. I mean, it's it's a fun trip. It's hard. It's fun, but just being out here and >> Yeah. >> So, >> it is 10 p.m. past my bedtime, but when you have all these cool people to talk to, it's hard to go to bed. You want to take advantage of these moments when you're around so many other riders and amazing people and everybody has a story. I'm so glad to be here at the Llama Ranch with Barbara and John. They are just incredible people in every way and they inspire me and I hope they inspire everybody else with their philosophy of love and kindness and paying it forward. You know, let's do that people. What do you say no? >> Very. >> Oh, don't shoot it at me, buddy. [laughter] Thumbnail. Look at him just laughing.