Video summary
The video demonstrates a comprehensive approach to restoring hair health by cutting away damaged ends and rebuilding structure from the ground up. The stylist begins by identifying that the client's hair, which had not been cut in a long time, suffered from frayed and weak ends. To address this, the stylist decides to remove approximately two inches of length to create a clean, solid baseline rather than trying to repair severely damaged hair. This process involves precise sectioning techniques using a specialized comb with varying tooth widths to ensure clean partings, allowing the stylist to access the base of the hair and establish a strong foundation for the new cut.
Once the initial perimeter is established, the stylist moves into layering the back of the head by over-directing the hair upward from the occipital bone to the crown area. This technique creates uniform layers while removing excess weight, resulting in a lighter feel. The process continues with the creation of a soft face frame that wraps underneath the chin without creating short bangs, adhering to the client's preference for length retention. Throughout the cutting phase, the stylist emphasizes maintaining a comfortable posture by using a cutting stool, noting that physical comfort directly impacts the consistency and quality of the haircut, especially when working with long hair on tall clients.
The styling portion focuses on maximizing shine and volume through careful blow-drying and thermal protection. The stylist uses a high-quality ionic blow dryer to direct airflow down the hair cuticle, which smooths the surface and enhances natural luster. By elevating the round brush during drying, significant volume is added without creating excessive curl, particularly in areas where the client already has high hair density. To further polish the look, a curling iron is used to set gentle waves that are later broken up with hands to achieve a natural, effortless texture. The final result transforms the client's frayed and weak hair into a healthy, shiny, and voluminous style that looks significantly revitalized.
Read the full video transcript
All right, guys. So, like I said at the
beginning, this is our uh receptionist
Madison. So, we're going to give her a
haircut. She hasn't had a haircut in a
really long time. She just started with
us uh a couple months ago. So, she's
been holding out waiting for a new cut.
So, what I did was I shampooed her
first. Now, the thing I noticed about
Madison's hair right away is because she
doesn't cut it very often, the ends are
very like they were very frayed and
weak. So, what I want to do is put some
strength into it. So, I'm going to
section off the haircut and what I'm
doing is creating a horseshoe section on
the top. I really want to separate the
top and the bottom for this cut. And
then, um I'm going to separate just the
the midpoint. So, right behind the ear,
we're going to split that so that we are
just sectioning off the front and the
back and the top and the bottom of the
head. So, to create my sectioning, I'm
using my YS Park 339 comb. The thing I
love about this comb is it has that
tooth in the very front that allows for
easier partings and sectioning. So, it
keeps everything nice and clean. It's
got nice tight teeth and then a little
bit wider teeth on one end. So, it's a
very versatile comb. I use it in pretty
much every cut uh as a standard and then
I branch off to other combs from there.
So, then right down center back, create
my next parting, and then I go from the
occipital bone right to behind the ear,
slight diagonal forward uh but not too
far stretched forward, and just separate
that point from the occipital bone to
the low crown area, and split that in
half. What this is going to do is allow
me to cut into the base of the hair. And
where I talked about you can see how
that's kind of broken and weak, I'm also
going to be using a cutting stool. And
I'm just going to go in, I'm going to
start to create that really strong
baseline. So, I see where the hair is
weak. Madison didn't want to lose a lot
of length. That's a very salon reality
feeling. Um so, I look at where the hair
starts to look weaker, and that's where
I start my line. With some people, this
might have to be a little bit higher.
Some people, it can be a little bit
lower. We're taking about 2 in off
of her hair to get a clean line going, a
nice solid base, and then we'll go
through and start our layering after
that. So, I comb everything down couple
inches at a time, bringing more hair
down to it, using that as a stationary
guide, using her back as a flat surface,
and just creating that solid line
through.
The thing I like about using a cutting
stool, we got our cutting stool at
minervabeauty.com.
The thing I like about using one is that
it allows when you're working with
somebody with longer hair, I'm a taller
person about 6-ft. So, when I'm working
on somebody, Madison's nice and tall,
but she also has really a pretty long
hair. So, if I were to try to work
without using a stool, I'd have to be
bending my back quite a bit, and I'd be
very uncomfortable. And like we talked
about in past videos, the more
uncomfortable you are, the more
inconsistent your haircut will be. So, I
want to stay nice and comfortable. This
is my favorite part right here. This is
where we're going to start to add in the
layering in the very back portion. So,
we go from basically the occipital bone
up to the crown area, and I'm going to
over direct it up. Now, a lot of people
when I did this on the mannequin before,
they were like, "This would be weird and
uncomfortable if I had a guest sitting
in a chair." Well, you can see right
here that I take the hair, I bend
Madison's head down.
So, it's actually a really comfortable
position to create that layering, and
you're doing condensed cutting, so it's
allowing you a lot of freedom and quick
technique. So, in the salon we talk
about time being money and all of that,
and bring value to what you're doing.
So, if I over direct that entire panel
up and cut it, it's going to give me
nice uniform layers and in a quick
result. So, now the other thing that I'm
going to do, and this is a little bit of
a change from what we did on the
mannequin. So, if you watch vlog number
97, you'll see me do this cut on a
mannequin. I don't over direct the hair
forward like this, but what I'm doing
with Madison is I'm creating a little
bit more of a face frame, which I think
will flatter her face a little bit more.
So, you have somebody that
I'm not trying to create too much
separation in the face frame. I want it
to wrap right underneath
about 4 in underneath her chin and just
kind of have it nice and soft there.
So, now we're going to work through the
top. I create a horizontal section
across. I grab a piece from the edge.
You can see that little piece that I've
left out there. That's going to be my
guideline from the face frame. With
Madison, I didn't want to create a short
bang because she didn't want short
bangs. So, I go a little bit longer with
the technique, which totally works, and
I go through and I over direct the hair
down, twist it, and give it a cut. That
twist, what that does is it over directs
the hair on both sides, so it gives it
kind of a U-shape in the very front,
which is a really nice soft feeling to
the layering.
Now, as I move through the back U
section, I do a little bit heavier
not heavier but higher
elevation, and that higher elevation is
going to remove a little bit extra
weight. So, as I move back on her head
shape, I give it a little bit higher
elevation as I work through it. Gives me
a lighter feeling.
So, here's the last section. You'll
notice I don't grab the entire thing all
together. Just a little bit at a time.
Use a little bit for my guide.
Over direct it forward, and there we go.
There is our technique. You can see the
layering. So, I'm going through with the
brush. What I want to do is use my Ergo
paddle brush to just kind of pass
through the hair. The other thing
that I didn't mention is the scissor
that I used to cut her hair. I used the
DB20 scissor from Mizutani. It's the one
that we sell on our website. I love that
scissor. Use it for everything. It's a
5.7 in scissor. So, anytime I'm doing uh
precision cutting or cutting thicker
hair, I like using a shorter blade. And
also, that scissor is nano powder metal,
which helps grip the hair and cut uh
nice thick coarse hair really, really
well. Great lines in it.
So, now I power dry her with the Dyson
blow dryer and using the foam or the
mousse uh in her hair. And then, what
I'm going to do is section off the top
and then start working my round brushes.
So, I'm using the Ergo round brushes. Uh
little bit
wider brush. I didn't want to go too
uh too big with the round brush, because
that gives you more of a straighter
look. Uh and I didn't want to go too
small, cuz I didn't want to create too
much wave and curl in it yet. Uh so,
this is the Joico thermal protectant
they also sent me. And so, I spray that
in because I'm about 90% dry on the
hair. And then, as I go through it, I'm
going to have that little bit of added
protection in there.
So, there's my brush. You can see it's
not a super wide round brush. I just
want to get some volume and also polish
the cuticle of the hair down.
So, I go through there over and over
again. You're going to see me working
that brush. That's what gives it that
shine you could see.
Uh so, it makes your hair look nice and
healthy. Gives it that shine. And then,
I'm going to go through with an iron
actually at the very end. So, just
kicking up that volume. My brush is
always elevating. If you think about
hair cutting, you elevate the hair, it
gives it a nice light layer feel. It's
the same with blow drying. The more you
elevate it, the higher the volume's
going to be, the more light feel it's
going to have towards the ends.
Same thing. I let it cool. Um I think a
lot of people just quickly would take
their brush out. You got to let it cool
down a bit. And then, I kind of unwrap
the brush so that I don't pull that uh
curl out of there, with wave that I've
put in there. I even went back through
in this section and did it again because
I felt like it just didn't quite have
that polish on it that I wanted. So, you
never want to skimp on something. Just
go back in there and rework it.
So, last little bit on the side. You'll
notice everything's kind of coming off
of the face. So, my thought was if I
iron if I work the blow dryer and work
the brush off of the face, it'll open
everything up.
So, now we move into the last section of
the blow dry, which is that U-shaped
section. What I'm going to do is split
that basically in half. And as I work
through the top, the very first half of
this section is going to be blow dry
back towards me, towards the back of the
head. And then the front part is going
to be blow dry forward towards the face
to give it maximum volume right in the
very front. But in the back, I didn't
need all that volume. Madison's already
got a high density of hair. She's got a
lot of hair. Um so, I wasn't worried
about it not having the volume or the
fullness. But I did want to make sure
that I was still lifting that brush nice
and high, working, polishing from the
base to the midshaft to the ends, and
and getting the the look exactly the way
I wanted. But I didn't need to get too
much volume. Now, if they had finer
fabric of hair, I might have rolled the
entire top section forward, which would
have given me maximum volume. But uh
like I said, with Madison's hair, it's
it's pretty good to go as long as you're
giving it a little bit of that elevation
throughout the blow dry.
The other thing I definitely, you know,
it's the elephant in the room. I am
using a Dyson blow dryer. Um
those of you that follow me know my
stance on it. I definitely like the blow
dryer. It is something that I use in the
salon now. Um I didn't mind spending the
extra money on it. But do I I do believe
that most professional dryers are just
as good as this dryer. The thing I like
about it, I like the lightweight feel of
it. I like anything that's new
technology, so I didn't mind spending
money on that, but I
pretty much feel that you're paying for
the new technology with that blow dryer.
I don't think it's necessarily that it's
going to blow dry your hair so much
better than a professional dryer. I do
strongly feel that
you should not go cheap on a blow dryer
though. Don't just run and grab a $20
blow dryer. Make sure that it has key
benefits for your hair, it's ionic and
different things that it's not just blow
drying your hair with
extreme heat. It's blow drying your hair
with more modern technology. So just
make sure
a key thing to know is if you're
spending between 60 to $200 on a blow
dryer, you're going to be good to pretty
good to go and safe in that regard. So
last little bit, like I said, I'm blow
drying everything forward, wrapping it
towards the face instead of away from
the face. What that's going to do is
give me that maximum volume in there and
I wanted to really pop it up in the
fringe area. We did cut some of that
face framing around. So this is going to
give me all that volume that I'm looking
for.
And if you guys aren't a hairdresser out
there and you are watching this video,
and this could be the interesting part
for you.
When we look at the blow dry, I'm
passing that blow dryer, the nozzle is
aiming down over top of the cuticle of
the hair. The hair should be the air
flow of the blow dryer should be passing
down the hair strand. That's going to
give you the most shine.
So you can see all those layers coming
to life. Now I'm going to go through.
This is actually a Paul Mitchell
curling iron. It's a I think a 1 and 1/2
inch iron. I'm going through leaving the
ends out even though they have a little
bit of curl from the brush, but I didn't
want to curl them so much cuz I'm going
to pull those curls out at the end. The
trick here is to go through, get that
curl set, let it cool, and then you can
run your hands through it and break it
up later, but you don't want to pull and
tug on it too much because you will lose
the curl
while the hair is still hot.
So, same thing curling everything off of
the face, curling it back, creating the
style.
Last few sections right on the top. This
again off of the face, curling it back.
We already created the volume using the
brush, so this is really just to work
the ends and the mid shaft and just to
kind of give it that curl back.
Each section I'm taking I'm kind of
laying it on top of the other, so it
just gets it out of the way, but you're
not clipping it. Anytime you add a clip
to the hair, you start to bend it. So, I
just want to allow the hair to do its
thing, dry the or cool down the way it's
supposed to cool down and you'll get a
better result.
There is the last one. You can see all
those curls. See how healthy her hair
looks now. We definitely cleaned it up a
lot. It's like brought all new life to
the hair. So, if you guys like this
video, definitely let me know in the
comments below. We're going to finish it
off. This is, I believe, just a firm
hold hairspray. This is from Joico as
well.
Just going through there, separating the
pieces, pulling the hair out. I don't
You don't want to leave it curled the
way it was. So, I like to stretch those
curls out, break them up, give it a more
natural feel. So, if you guys like it,
hit the like button, let me know below
if you have any questions. Thanks for
watching.
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