Video summary
Shane Russeck, the owner of True North Watch Company based in Los Angeles, shares insights into his two-decade friendship with comedian Bill Burr and the evolution of his career from motorcycle enthusiast to professional watchmaker. Inspired by the creative spirit of West Coast Choppers builders like Jesse James and Indian Larry, Russeck initially pursued watchmaking as a hobby alongside wildlife photography before pivoting the business in 2023 to focus exclusively on affordable and reliable chronographs. The brand is defined by its commitment to design, durability, and accessibility, often utilizing quartz movements to keep prices reasonable without compromising on quality, while also introducing unique creations such as a custom 40mm timepiece for Bill Burr and the popular "Moholland" model featuring a distinctive faded bezel reminiscent of vintage Rolex Submariners worn by surfers.
Beyond his specific product lines, Russeck discusses his strategic approach to production and design philosophy, emphasizing the importance of handmade leather straps with white stitching and limiting production runs to ensure loyal customers can actually purchase watches rather than facing immediate sell-outs. He expresses a strong preference for modern vehicles over fragile vintage classics due to practicality, a sentiment that extends to his views on watch sizing where he advocates for smaller dimensions over the oversized "hamburger cases" currently popularized by brands like Tudor, arguing that larger cases disrupt vintage proportions and do not fit well under jackets. Looking toward the future, Russeck plans to expand offerings of patina-aged cases by 2027 while maintaining his belief that once manufacturers redesign their thick movements, smaller watches will dominate the market again.
The conversation also broadens to include a deep appreciation for vintage-inspired aesthetics in both automotive and motorcycle industries, with Russeck criticizing major brands like Harley-Davidson for failing to fully embrace retro lines despite consumer demand, while praising modern Indian motorcycles for successfully combining classic styling with powerful engines. He notes that although early revival-era Indians suffered from vibration issues due to uncounterbalanced round cylinder motors, current models have achieved significant success, reflecting a wider trend of celebrating legendary custom builders like Guard Hollinger, Jesse Rook, Billy Lane, Paul Cox, and Kano who are celebrated for their artistic mastery and hand-engraved work on high-profile pieces such as the Brad Pitt Indian Larry bike. Ultimately, Russeck concludes with enthusiasm for his watches serving as daily drivers and shares his plans to visit the studio soon to see his new watch prototype firsthand.
Read the full video transcript
All right, here we are. Another episode
of Let There Be Talk. It is going to be
watch Talk today. Introduce yourself, my
man.
>> What's up? I'm Shane Russ. I own True
North Watch Company in Los Angeles.
>> I can't I can't even believe like like
how long have I known you?
>> So, it's funny. I was thinking about
that this morning. I think it's been
almost 20 years since I've seen you.
>> That's [ __ ] nuts.
>> Is that crazy?
>> That is nuts. Yeah, you and I. I was
thinking about it and your name actually
comes up often. We were at the Laugh
Factory, I believe it was, and we saw it
was before the really infamous crazy
thing, but um Michael Richardson, we
were there and we saw him completely go
crazy on a uh on a member on an audience
member. Do you remember that or no? Oh,
dude. I was just talking to Bill Burr
about it because sometimes when I talk
to people, they look at me and Bill
doesn't, but I could tell he's still,
you know, people look at you like you're
a liar, you know, like
>> every time I tell that story, I feel the
same. Yes.
>> Not only that story, but just stories in
my life after a while, you just start
feeling weird. You walk away and you're
like, "Yeah, they didn't believe me."
You know, but I just told Bill that
story. The when we were there, it was
the guitar player for Poison, Richie
Codson. It's amazing that you even just
brought that up because this was
literally a week ago when I talked about
this with Bill.
>> How funny is that? Well, I I do feel
like when it comes to you, that happened
and then since then, I saw your career
just like go and go and go and go and
go. So, uh, yes. So, I always think
about you with that one particular, uh,
with that one particular story. For
sure.
>> And I wasn't even doing comedy at the
time. I was just going every Tuesday for
Jay Davis's like Life of the Party uh,
shows, you know.
>> Yeah. Yeah. But you were always, it was
always like being with a comedian with
you anyway. So, it's all the same.
>> And are you still riding?
>> I do. I I do ride. Um, not every day. I
rode every day for 32 years and then I
got ran over. Um and uh and then kind
of,
you know, it just I was like, well, it
it's gotten so crazy in the last 10
years with weed smoking and texting that
it's almost impossible to ride now. But
I do ride like early mornings like 6
a.m. you know or when I'm on the road
with like Bill or something like we rode
out to the uh Shining Hotel recently
Ducati.
>> Super cool.
>> Yeah, they hooked us up Ducati. And so
we ride on the road and I realized
that's real riding where you're just no
cars around and you're just enjoying the
two wheels, you know.
>> How about you? Yeah, I don't have a bike
right now, but I I think for guys like
you and I, as long as everything's okay
and there's not anything unfortunate
that happens, that's at this point
that's a lifelong thing when it comes to
riding, cars, all that kind of stuff,
like that's definitely a lifelong thing.
>> Yeah. Oh god. Yeah. Now, we met through
West Coast Choppers, I believe.
>> We met through West Coast Choppers.
Yeah. You know, it's funny because a lot
of times when people talk to me about
watches and building watches and they
ask influences, it was those guys from
that time period though they were
building motorcycles, we were surrounded
by such insane creativity and the level
that guys were taking these motorcycles
to and the idea of handbuilding
something, it was it was really
inspiring to me. So when I started
building watches, those names from back
then, Indian Larry and Billy Lane and
Jesse and all these guys, they were like
a although it's a completely different
industry, they were really big
influences, actually much bigger than
anyone in in the watch world.
>> Well, I think the one of the worst
things about humanity
is what I would call jealousy. And that
goes with um
you know the old thing of like look at
this guy in his Ferrari, what a [ __ ]
dick. Or you know, look at this guy in
his chopper, he's got a small dick.
And and what people don't understand is
there's such a small small um amount of
people that of course buy something for
look at me, but I really believe that
the people that love a watch, a chopper,
handmade stuff, a uh Porsche, Ferrari,
any of these cars, it starts early on
when you don't you're you're Not like a
kid in sixth grade like look at me.
You're more like it's a design addiction
and that's you know with architecture
midcentury. It's really about well this
doesn't look like a [ __ ] strip mall
to me. Why is this so cool and affecting
me? So that is a thing with watches big
time early on. Who you know what got you
into watches? Me it was James Bond. Mhm.
A lot of people is James Bond for sure.
I think that when it comes to watches
and it comes to great design, we all
have our things like I have in my office
over here. I've gotten one recently.
Swatch watches were really big to me
when I was younger. I'm sure that this
is very uh has to do with your age, but
like the um old Nelson Sonic video game
watches. I don't know if that's where it
started. When it comes to design and
being inspired by things, your eyes get
opened a little bit. And I know I can
say I've said this about several things
and you mentioned West Coast Choppers
and I felt this way about West Coast
Choppers as well. Certain things for
what they are I believe are as good as
they can get when it comes to design. So
for example, if you take a Rolex
Daytona, if you take a Porsche 911, if
you take one of Jesse's early choppers,
these in my opinion for the context of
what they are, it's as good as it can
get. anything else you do will go past
the line of perfection in that design.
And when you start noticing things like
that, it kind of sticks with you and
then you take it with you and you notice
it in everything you start to look at.
And then that's where at least I find my
inspirations.
It's funny. Somebody uh recently I saw a
builder and I'm not even going to
mention who it was because I don't even
really remember the name, but he had
built kind of a a a really beautiful
CFL style chopper mid controls two up.
And I said, "Man, that thing's [ __ ]
cool." He's like, "Thanks." And I go,
"Yeah, I um I at one time owned the the
uh you know, the Rust Chopper and uh and
also Death Dealer." And I named some
other bikes. And he's all, "Are you
talking about those [ __ ] shitty West
Coast Choppers?" And I just I was like,
"Whoa, dude. First of all, you're
copying exactly what he did." He goes,
"I've known numerous people that have
owned those and those Revtec motors.
[ __ ] that." And I go, "Wait, they don't
even have Revtec motors. This guy
doesn't even know what the [ __ ] he's
talking about. He's ripping off
somebody's design." Now, Jesse didn't
invent the chopper, but he was wise
enough to go like, "Oh, wait a minute.
The 60s choppers are killer. Let's make
them to where we can ride 120 miles an
hour." So this guy was like completely a
[ __ ] and he was like completely aggro
on his DMs to me though. I just [ __ ]
you know, muted them. I was like, "Wow,
man." So it is uh I understand what
you're saying. People get a design and
then you don't really, you know, you
can't really improve on it, but you can
make it your own thing. uh you can
improve on it, but I'm saying you don't
want to change too much of the flavor
because you you love the um the the
whole DNA of it.
>> Correct.
>> So,
>> and that's that's again that's what I
think to go back to Jesse, you take
somebody who obviously loved choppers,
had a very specific type of chopper that
he that he liked and had his reasons for
liking that. So when you incorporate all
these influences and what you like,
eventually it does become your own.
There's nothing about, you know, Jesse's
bikes that weren't original. He was
inspired by the past. But I've had
similar things to you with people. And I
I think a lot of that just comes down to
jealousy. I once called a shop. You
would definitely know them and actually
like the owner of the shop, but they
told me when I I had a Diablo that I
needed something done and um the guy
said, "No, we only work on custom bikes
here. His bikes aren't custom." Okay.
Like cool. like we don't even need to
get into that conversation. That's just
a silly thing to say. So, um
>> yeah, and also to sit around and go,
"Oh, those are just rich people's bikes
that don't ride." Sure, rich people
bought them, but that's what kept the
shop alive to where somebody like myself
could get in there. Now, you owned the
Sturgees Special.
>> No, never.
>> Oh, you didn't know? Oh, no. You owned
the Copper Chopper.
>> Copper Chopper. Yeah.
>> And what else did you have? I can't
remember. I had that and I had a uh blue
Diablo that we built at the shop.
>> That's right. Oh yeah. With the short
fender.
>> Yeah. I was a really really really big
fan of that bike. That was that was a
great bike. And the copper bike
obviously was just incredible. And the
uh guy who had last had it I know had a
really big collection of those bikes. So
it was cool to see it there with all
those other motorcycles.
>> Was it the tow truck guy?
>> No. No. Um wasn't a tow truck guy. And I
believe when I had last spoken to him, I
believe he had Sturgeis also. He had a
lot of them. Like when I'd last spoken,
he had gotten a lot of those bikes. So
again, it was cool seeing them with
somebody who appreciated that so much.
>> Now, how long did you have the bikes and
then what made you eventually sell them?
>> I had the bikes.
The blue bike I The blue bike I didn't
have as long. The copper bike I had for
a while. I think with Jesse, with the
shop being gone, right,
>> and I didn't really have anybody that I
trusted at that level to service that
bike. So, it just got more to the point
where I was like caretaking for that
motorcycle versus really enjoying it.
So, it was just time to sell it. It was
And I'm not one of those guys. I don't
get emotionally attached to things. I
like to see them, enjoy them, respect
them, and then it can go on to somebody
else. I'm okay with that.
>> Yeah, I'm the same way. And also, uh, as
much as I love Chongo Blanco, uh, I felt
that for my height and my, uh, you know,
like I'm only 57 on a good day with
boots. So, the two-up death dealer was
the ultimate riding for me. And I had
sold that to get the Chongo Blanco. And
Chongo Blanco to me was kind of the
crown jewel of the [ __ ] thing, you
know?
>> For me, too. I remember when you had
that and I agree with you on that.
>> Yeah, it really is the ultimate West
Coast choppers. Nobody had done anything
like that. It was all rusted, weird
patina. It had the crazy ape on there.
It was It was epic. If that bike was a
twoup, I probably would still own it,
you know, but it was a little bit of a
stretch. And then, you know, I had like
prostate problems from hitting speed
bump, you know, potholes. Right. I was
like
>> that little seat in the rigid frame.
Cher share.
>> [ __ ] yeah.
>> And then he did a he did a Dominator,
the Cisco Dominator, and I loved the
dimensions of that motorcycle. I always
thought that like that was really that
and Chongo, I would say, were my two
favorite bikes that he did.
>> Yeah. I, you know, to me, I wish I could
buy Headfield's uh two up knuckle, let's
call it, like pop ahead or something.
>> It's an awesome bike. I remember when
that bike was done. That's an awesome
bike.
>> Yeah, it's a knucklehead engine. And
it's a two up and it's real small. I
like the small choppers and I like them
up a little bit to where you turn it
into a driveway. You don't drag the
frame.
>> Yeah. Friend of mine, Timothy White,
he's a photographer, has a Rolex the I
mean I'm sorry. Yeah, Timothy has the
Rolex, the Indian Larry bike Rolex.
>> Oh yeah.
>> Dimensions. It's perfect. The bike is
absolutely perfect because it's exactly
what you're saying. It's the size that
you can still handle it, but it has the
stance that you want that motorcycle to
have.
>> Yeah. The Indian Larry
with the chain down to the rolling sands
bikes and and West Coast and some of the
exiles are so [ __ ] mindboggling great
it's not even funny. Even when I see
them now, I've scooped up a bunch over
the years. you know, they dropped down
in in price and and uh that was because
people didn't know what the [ __ ] they
were doing. So, uh give it give it to
you for 25. It's like, okay, here all
day long, you know,
you got to know how to sell these bikes.
They're not just a [ __ ] special
construction. You got an exile. Nobody
has an exile,
>> right? You sell that [ __ ] thing as
like this handmade over in van eyes in a
warehouse by a dude and it looks like
nothing else, you know?
>> Right. And those bikes too, man. They
they remain pretty timeless. Like
they'll always be around. They'll always
have that MadMax thing that he was going
for. Another super super cool company.
>> So what do you do after that? Do you get
into Porsche?
>> Well, I've always been into Porsche. I
actually I I learned to drive stick when
I was 14 years old on a 930 Turbo. So
Porsches have always been a a huge
passion. Porsches and and certain muscle
cars. As a matter of fact, the copper
bike when after that I got a uh 440 Cuda
and that would be out of anything that
I've had that would be one thing that I
sold that I miss a lot. Like that I'd
like to have back,
>> right?
>> So,
>> but yeah, it was more more older cars
now. Like I definitely went more in that
direction than motorcycles.
>> Right. Yeah. Yeah. I had a a 70 Dodge
Superb B5 blue.
>> I've seen that. I remember that. And I
think I've seen that.
>> I had a 69 Roadrunner convertible R1
red.
>> Okay. Oh, so you were always a Mopar
guy, too.
>> Oh, yeah. Oh, Mopar. What's the thing?
Magnus says no. Mopar or
>> no? Yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
>> So, um,
>> so how do you get into the watches?
>> So, during all that time, I'm actually a
wildlife photographer. So during that
time when I was out shooting, I was
shooting killer whales and I was wearing
a watch, a 1675 that was a gift given to
me and I was so concerned about banging
the watch as I was shooting that when I
went back that night, I'd always played
with watches. I was into watch making as
a hobby and um I thought I'm going to
build myself something cool that I can
wear on a shoot that has the aesthetics
I like and I don't have to worry about
it. So did that and I would say for
about maybe three years I would build
watches from friends. I'd buy parts. I'd
restore things and then Jonathan Ward
from Icon, I don't know if you had him
on your show. I feel like you guys know
each other.
>> I had him on the show.
>> Yeah. I made him a watch. He posted it
and then like I really started getting a
lot of requests for them. So at this
time I was still handmaking every watch.
So there was definitely a ceiling on
what I was capable of doing or not. And
when I started to see people's reactions
and people wanting the watches, I
thought, you know what, we should really
start to do this a little bit more and
see how the reactions go. And, you know,
fortunately, we really hit the ground
running and people really enjoy the
watches and it's all just kind of just
snowballed from there and just continues
to.
>> Now, what was the first one you did?
Like a a sub. I have a sub. It's like a
military a milspec sub. What was
>> Yeah. No, we we actually didn't do
didn't do very many of those. I did
them, but we didn't do very many. Uh,
the first watch that I ever did was a
just an original design chronograph that
again, you kind of Do I have No, I don't
have it here. That would feel like
you've seen it before. And then we went
into
really heavily going into all the
different chronograph styles. And I've
done a couple dive watches, but dive
watches aren't really the focus.
Chronographs are really my passion.
That's that's where I really land when
it comes to collecting and what I'm
primarily interested in.
>> And what year was that? How long you
been in business?
>> 2023.
>> 2023. Yeah. We were doing classic trucks
before that. That's what True North was.
It was a kind of hobby passion project
during COVID when I wasn't really
traveling and shooting. We were fixing
up mostly K10s and um
>> fixing them up, restoring them, selling
them. I'm a huge huge K10 fan and uh
then we did the watch
um and just started focusing more on the
watch. One the desiraability I mean so
many people wanted them and two watches
are I love trucks but watches are more
there's nothing on a watch I can't do.
There's a lot on a truck I can't do. So
that was why when I saw the interest was
there, we kind of pivoted around 2022
and really started focusing on just
watches.
>> Let's give the uh the watchers here, the
watchers, the viewers uh show them some
of the stuff here and let's go through
them here.
>> First, I'll show you something cool that
I actually made for you.
>> Yeah. Oh, yeah. Let's see that.
>> You had mentioned that you liked our
2480, which was our
>> 100%.
>> Yeah. But I noticed that I've never seen
you wear anything small. I always see
you in 40 millimeter. Am I am I reading
that?
>> Yeah. 38 to 40.
>> Okay. So, I wanted to make you something
that would kind of fit that. So, this is
our Let me see if you could see it. This
is a 40 mm 2480 that I made you. You
mentioned you like that color.
>> This is a one-off case, oneoff bracelet.
And this watch won't go into production.
So, everything about this watch is a
unique watch that was made for you. And
again, the concept though it has
modern dimensions when you see it, it it
has that vintage watch feel. So, I'm not
sure if you can see that that well.
>> Oh, yeah. That's great. Now, it's 40 mm.
>> This is 40 millimeter.
>> Is that quartz or automatic?
>> Quartz.
>> Quartz moon phase. So, for me, a big
thing with the brand is that I want
everything to be affordable,
>> right?
>> So, as long as I know when I first
started, I wasn't sure about quartz. I'm
very honest about that. I didn't know
how I felt about doing quartz. I got the
first Mecca quartz prototype and I have
to say, first off, it was great to be
able to put a watch on and not have to
set the time. That was actually pretty
cool if you didn't wear it for a while.
And it just didn't bother me. The
accuracy, the affordability, and the
durability of the watches, that's that's
where I find we land, and that's what's
important to me.
>> Well, my favorite watch on the planet is
the FPJ. You know, it's a quartz watch.
>> Uhhuh. Uh-huh. you know, and and that
thing's [ __ ] like a hundred grand,
you know,
>> right? Listen, I mean,
>> yeah, my mind changed completely on and
we still do automatics 100%. But for
certain watches to make it in the
context with affordability as a very,
very, very big priority that I think
that quartz movements in the right
context with the right design can work.
Okay, let's see some more stuff. Which,
by the way, I love that watch, you know,
that you just showed me. You know, Kevin
and I have been talking about the we
we've come up with the ultimate Delray.
Kevin, like I uh moon phase with a pink
dial.
>> Moonphase with a pink dial. That's
>> I mean, if you want, you could do this
and you could throw We We just did a
pink dial with one of the wind watches.
So, you throw a pink dial in that. That
that that's what I'm talking about. You
know what I mean? That's the Delray.
>> Well, now you got the Delray. That's
what we'll name that watch. The Del Rey.
>> Yeah. Hell yeah.
>> When I when I photograph it, that's what
it'll be called.
>> Hell yeah. Now, what else do you have?
>> Oh, do you have that that one that's
sold out? It's like the the the Daytona,
but it's like green and and yellow, and
>> you don't even have one, huh? So, the
funny thing with that watch, first one
we did sold out in I think it was 28
seconds.
>> What? How many How many units?
>> 250. The I can't Was it 200 or 250? I've
forgotten because we changed the number
for the next release. And then they went
they got even faster. So, those watches
go so fast that with the second release,
I said, "Okay, I'm putting some aside
for myself for sure. Like, I'd like to
have this watch."
>> Yeah. It went so fast that our server
crashed and I saw it said -10 under the
inventory. So, I actually had to call 10
people and tell them, "Listen, I'm
really sorry, but you didn't get the
watch. I know you think you did." And
both Eric and myself ended up buying
watches on eBay because they were going
for like $2,500 right after that. Buying
watches on eBay to give to customers who
are really upset with us that they
didn't get it. It was for something that
you think would be like really
celebratory. Like that's incredible.
They sold out so fast. It was also not
because there were a lot of people who
buy every watch I do who've become
friends who are like really loyal
customers who were pretty upset that
they didn't get one.
>> So we have a new launch October 2nd and
this time we did 1990 watches
>> of the same dial.
>> Yeah. And so the goal here is that we
really want to make sure that we can
keep the watch limited. It was available
that one time, but everybody can get
one. That's something that we're really
really striving for because it has been
an issue with things selling out so
quickly.
>> Yeah. There was that one guy, that big
high up older dude. He was like
recommended the watch on like Hodinki or
something or or some news thing. He was
like, I love this one. You know that
that older dude.
>> Kevin Olir.
>> Huh?
>> Kevin Ori.
>> Yeah. Yeah.
>> Yeah. Apparently he he saw somebody with
it from across a room at a party. Yeah.
>> And he went up to her and asked where
she got it and that was how he found out
about it. And stuff like that's so cool
cuz I don't always hear about that
stuff. And then all of a sudden I'll see
on social media or I'll see like all of
a sudden there's like 5,000 new
followers and whatever and you have to
backtrack and then you find out, oh wow,
how cool is that? Kevin Olirri was on
the news talking about the watch today.
>> That was nuts.
>> That stuff ends up being very cool.
Well, the the there's kind of a good
thing about what you're doing is that in
this, you know, in the last five years
of these uh smashing grabs and these
people robbing people at, you know,
dinner, you know, they're eating dinner
at Beverly Hills getting their watch
robbed and stuff. There's something
amazing about being able to to enjoy
something
uh you know for the design but not have
to worry about you know if they come up
and rob you they're just dumb. You're
like yeah here take this. You know
>> that's the whole concept of the brand.
And surprisingly one thing that was a
surprise was how many watch collectors
have been buying my watches for those
exact reasons. They buy them, they
vacation, they wear them, which again,
people I have people who send me
concepts all the time. I'd love to see
you do this. I'd love to see a
split-second chronograph and I'd love
and as a watch fan, I love all that,
too. It's just not true north because
affordability is a big part of True
North, right?
>> So, like I said, affordability and
reliability, those are like the two most
important things I have obviously along
with design.
>> Let's see some other ones. You got some
other there.
>> Yeah. So, here I'm just trying to show
you some new stuff we have. One thing
that I really want to work on um is our
straps. We have a lot of really, really,
really cool straps coming out. So, like
this is an example. This is our
Moholland, which I also sent you.
>> Yeah,
>> this has been hands down the most
popular watch that we've had. So, this
is a handmade leather bracelet that we
have coming out for this exact case. You
can see the curvature on it at the end
matches the radius with the case. So, it
just fits in there nicely.
>> Hold on. I I want to show you something.
Hold on. Hold on.
I thought I had it. I that's my favorite
style strap because you you have the
white stitching on it and then you don't
in I don't like metal and that's leather
>> and and so I bought a strap like that
from Switzerland a few years ago and I
mean I completely mutilated it from
riding in the sun and
>> but they look cool that way. That works.
No, it wor it was great, but it had a
backing on it and it came apart. So, I
you know, I love that style. So, that's
going to be a strap I have to own
because I love the white stitching and
then leather instead of you know like
all those uh you know military straps,
they all have the metal
>> and it [ __ ] bangs on [ __ ] you know.
>> Sure. Sure. Sure. I got ADD or or not
ADD, but I'm I'm like uh what what is
that called?
>> OCD.
>> Yeah. OCD.
>> So, you'll relate to this. I And you'll
know what this is. I had just gotten a
new a restored rimlow steering wheel. Do
you remember them?
>> Oh, yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
>> I was so excited about this steering
wheel. Sunday night, went out, came
home, got home at about 11:00 at night
and looked and my swatch had put little
scratches in it from what I was turning
like, oh, it sucked so bad. So, but you
know, that's just that's just part of
it. But another thing that I have that
I'm really excited that we have, I love
bun straps.
>> I think they're cool. They have a really
cool Paul Newman kind of feel, but
sometimes they feel big and like they're
they're wearing the watch, right? So,
what we did is we have a line of buns
coming out that we designed right to fit
smoothly along the side of the watch.
>> That looks great.
>> Yeah. So, these are coming out. I I like
I think this is an old school look that
people aren't really doing anymore that
I'm a big big fan of.
>> Dude, that's the Paul Newman strap right
there. You know,
>> the one that Paul wore was thicker. It
was more like cuff.
>> But I just love the design.
>> Yeah, me too.
>> What's the history on that strap? Do you
know?
>> I don't and I should. I feel like I did
at one point.
>> Right. Right.
>> But I don't. I'm going to assume that it
had to do with something with wearing
outside your coat. So, you can also put
it on outside, but I'm not sure.
Actually, I did at one point, right?
>> And um
>> I'm the same way. You go down rabbit
holes and then it just goes out after a
couple years of you need space for
>> it just goes out. The information was
once there, but there's only so much
that you uh that you
>> I love that strip. Now, how much are
these straps?
>> These the this one is going to retail at
95. The bundle be 95. And you can see
it's all handmade. And then these will
be 45.
>> Man, I got to have that. I love those
straps.
>> And we have several different colors
also.
>> Yeah. Mine was army green.
>> It was like olive.
>> And what were you wearing that on?
>> On a blank pond. the uh the Hodinki
military.
>> Okay.
>> Yeah. Yeah.
>> What are you wearing now?
>> Oh, right now. Oh my god. I love these
guys. This is the
Kuwami Tokyo.
>> Oh, yeah. Yeah. Yeah.
>> Now, this is this is a killer $600
watch. And you know, like your watches,
I just [ __ ] love this price point.
And then, you know, I love your watches.
This Kami and then Tornic Rael for a
thousand makes to me the ultimate, you
know, Blanc Pond style diver.
>> Sure. Now, do you know the history of
that brand? That's a pretty
>> Oh, yeah. Of course. Yeah. I mean, you
know, those that guy was wild. He's like
a diver and then he goes, "I need a
watch." And you know, he basically
invents the diver watch and then Rolex
like, "No, we'll just grab that."
>> Yep. Yep. So, a lot a lot of people
think that the Submariner came first and
it didn't.
>> Yeah.
>> Yeah. It's that's very cool. And then
what other are you into vintage or not
as much?
>> Well, here's my thought on life now. I I
was a vintage guy forever. vintage
motorcycles, vintage cars, and now I'm
60 and I I don't like fragile because I
use [ __ ] every day.
>> Uh whether it be a car or a watch or
whatever. And so I'm way into, you know,
brand new 911. Uh you know, no gas fume.
Like I rode choppers so long and drove
Mopars that I huffed gasoline smell. And
then you get to an age I was just
telling someone this. You get home and
you go, "Fuck, I got to shower. I stink
like gasoline." And people are like,
"Yeah, that's part of it." It's like,
sure, for you who like drives once a
month, you're like, "I went out riding.
I smell like gasoline." But to me, it's
all about, you know, how much can I
drive this or how much can I wear this
watch or or even vintage uh eyewear or
anything vintage. And what inspired me
was this guy got a 2018, I believe,
Carrera, and he's got 250,000 miles on
it. He drives it every day to all around
America to all the national parks.
>> Oh, yeah. Yeah. I've seen that guy. I've
seen him. Yeah.
>> Yeah. So that guy inspired me. It's
like, hey man, make your own vintage.
>> Sure.
>> You know, sure.
>> And that's almost a good brand name, you
know, make your own vintage
>> where let let it be your stories like oh
this [ __ ] car I got in 2018. It has a
100,000 miles. People will go like what?
It's like oh yeah, I I drive this car.
That's why I bought it.
>> Yeah. No, I like that too. Make your
story. you create with it and
>> yeah, I like that a lot, you know, but
there still is, and this is why there's
brands like Singer and like Icon.
There's always going to be people that
just love that vintage aesthetic. I know
like, you know, an F-150 is perfect for
me for a daily driver, but I am all for
years I had a 65 F100 that I drove. I'm
always going to prefer the aesthetics of
the 65, but sometimes it's nice to just
get a fuel injected car, have it start,
and get where you need to go.
>> Right. Well, I go everywhere with my
dog. So, one of my main paranoas is
[ __ ] if I break down some the the dog,
you know, like
>> I got I got to get her out of this
[ __ ] weather or whatever, you know?
So,
>> yeah. And I I actually had that one time
I had a uh
>> car breakdown in traffic right on
Highland and Melrose at like 5:30 in the
afternoon, the middle of an
intersection. And I also I had to get
home to feed my dog and I was like, you
know what, man? This is like this is a
pain in the ass. I'm too old for this
now. Like he's got to get fed. I got to
figure out the car. So, it's something
we all go through. Everybody who loves
vintage cars all understands that part
of it as well.
>> Oh, yeah. Yeah. You know, look, I love
that stuff, but I like other people
owning it now. You know,
>> I like that. I literally can go over,
stick my head inside the window, smell
the interior, and go, "Oh, I'm good.
That's killer."
>> I got it. That That little smell just
hit me.
>> I'm good. And then take a picture and
look at the picture while I'm laying
around in bed like, "Whoa, look at
this." You know?
>> Yep. Yep.
>> What What uh You got a Porsche now?
>> Yeah. A um 81 SE.
>> Oh, yeah.
>> Then that was that was a really cool
story with that car. It was a guy single
owner car and he loved It has only now
it has 21 but only 19,000 miles.
But the exciting thing was it's not like
he drove it 10,000 and put it away. It
was driven 300 to 500 miles per year and
documented with all service records and
everything. So it was a really really
really cool car to find. And uh anything
old that I get now I always like to have
some sort of cool story connected to it.
>> Yeah. What color?
>> Black. Black on black. Is the head were
the head studs done or
>> No, it didn't need anything yet. It only
has 19,000 miles.
>> Wow.
>> So, yeah. No, hasn't hasn't needed
anything and it's just been a really
great car.
>> I'm also a guy who's like, you know, you
get in one of those 915 transmissions
and it's like,
you know, and they're like, well, you
got to you got to shift it just right.
I'm like, I'll take a G50. You know
what?
>> I mean, the G50 is much better. 100%.
But, you know, every car has its quirks,
and once you drive it a couple times,
you just kind of get used to everything
about it, and then it just is what it
is. It just becomes that vehicle's
personality.
>> Yeah. Yeah, man. Now, how many watches
do you do a year designwise?
>> A design-wise?
>> Yeah. Like, do you do like 10 watches a
year, 10 releases? What do you do?
I would say roughly around 10 to 12 per
year, but design-wise I do a lot more. I
am always always always working. And one
thing about watches is that from initial
design to product, it's such a long
period of time that if you take the
Moholland, I was so excited about this
watch. I was so excited when I first
came up with it. I was so excited with
how we decided we wanted that wanted the
design language of the watch to read
because I didn't want it to be too
spot-on. I wanted it to represent that
area but in a cool way. So, I was so
excited about it.
>> Still am. I love it. I wear it every day
and it's definitely my favorite watch
we've done yet. But since then, other
projects have come on the table that I'm
so excited about. So, what happens is by
the time you're actually creating the
release, in reality, there's something
else that you're just chomping at the
bit to get everybody to see, but that's
going to be a year down the road. So,
that's how it goes. And yeah, for now,
it's about 10 releases per year. I like
to keep it small and interesting. I
don't I don't have an interest in just
doing a watch brand with all these
different looks and kind of hitting
every I like each release to be
something special. Have like a meaning
behind it. There's a why. I can discuss
every detail of why we chose to do what
we did on that particular watch. So
that's how we're keeping it for now.
What I love about the Maholland was
about 10 years ago, I was in Philipp and
this is before the Kermit sub lit fire,
you know, the quote unquote like the
flat four era and and all of that. And I
remember Philipe goes uh I go, "Hey, I'm
looking for the green sub." He goes,
"Cool. Come by." And so he pulled out
his tray and he had 36 of them
>> because they weren't crazy money, you
know, then. And uh there was one that he
had and he goes, "Look at this one, man.
A surfer wart every day in Malibu
surfing." And the green bezel was like
your M Holland. It was faded to a green
gold. And I was like, "Wow." like salt
water, sun, and just non-stop wear. This
bezel looked ultimate. And still to this
day, I'm bummed I didn't buy it cuz I
went for the mint one. I go, that's
cool, but let me just get this mint one.
But holy [ __ ] I'd never seen a bezel.
You know, the watch was only maybe 10,
15 years old, but he had wore it out in
the sun surfing every day and it it
completely faded to like the color of
the M Holland bezel.
>> And that's I love that. That's my
favorite. We actually This is going to
be far down the road. So, small cabin up
in Sky Forest and I noticed that metal
patina is just incredibly up there.
There there's copper gutters and the
colors. And what my theory on it was is
that where sky forest sits, the
altitude, you have the ocean right
there. I mean, not right there, but the
ocean's there. You get snow, you get
rain, it gets hot. There's just like a
mixture of everything. So, you really
get the perfect perfect patina. It's
taken a while, but we've developed a
process up there where we're getting
really amazing patina results. So,
that's something that I'm working on
that I'm really excited about. Always
been big on patina, but when we did the
Moholland, that bezel to me is what I've
always loved. That faded ghost bezel,
especially if there's a color change in
it,
>> that's where it really gets exciting for
me. So, um, that's definitely going to
be a big focus on what we're doing now
because a lot of people hate faux
patina, as do I, when it doesn't look
good. But if you can have it look really
good, then I mean I think there's
nothing cooler.
>> Well, speaking of cool, two things
yesterday happened. Rolex put out the
[ __ ] frying pan again, which is, you
know, that they re-released that that
[ __ ] Did you see that?
>> I did. I don't keep up on new stuff as
much, but I did see it. Yeah.
>> Well, that's like a crushing vintage
design. Uh, and then the Serena
AP with the pink dial and ceramic white
case and and strap just, you know,
Serena Williams. That thing [ __ ] I'm
a huge fan of pink. Because I'd love,
you know, people that are comfortable in
their skin to wear something that they
know other people are going to be like,
"Oh man, look at that [ __ ] thing."
You know, you know. So, I love pink
dials. Blanc Pond did a [ __ ] 50
Fathoms in pink last year. It is insane.
Yeah.
>> You know, and um then this Serena AP
just knocks me out. So, it's it's it's
cool right now in the watch world
between what you're doing all the way to
the highest up. There's, you know, with
the Swatch uh collabs with Omega and
Blanc Pon and there's all kinds of
[ __ ] entryways in now. Like when you
and I were young, it was a Swatch or a
Hot Wheels or Snoopy watch, you know?
>> Yeah. Correct. Correct. And now even
forget young, even go back to when when
when we were hanging out and riding back
then there was not a lot of affordable
stuff that was cool. like if you wanted
a cool watch, you really had to figure
out and there was something about that I
always felt especially when I was
learning to build watches that
everything cool we're discussing and I'd
have you know different forums for watch
makers and like in that world people are
very very helpful like in a lot of those
forums you can send pictures discuss you
know any kind of struggles that you're
having with doing something and I
noticed people are constantly
referencing watches that half of us have
never even seen in person
>> so you know it always kind of knocking
around in there. Like, I want to make a
watch that is this cool. We have all
these things that we're talking about
that we love, but like we can all enjoy
it. It's not just for, you know, the
five guys who happen to be lucky enough
to be able to get allocation for one of
these watches.
>> Yeah, that shit's nonsense. I love this
uh this couple, Hairbring. They're in
Austria or whatever. They make God, man,
they make a watch. This is Dynamite.
And uh you know, like I said, there's
some great [ __ ] out there. Now, how do
people they follow you on Instagram?
>> Mhm.
>> Um True North time pieces. Is it
>> True North Collections is what?
>> True North Collections. And how do they
you announce something and then you sign
up like uh is it like Kowami Tokyo where
you sign up and get ready for the
release?
>> Yeah. So, we have an email list and I do
tell everybody. So, what I try to do is
if you're on our email list and you're a
TNC insider, for the most part, you get
your notifications 30 minutes early when
things get released. And this way, if
you and if you've been with us and you
know, enjoying watches and have watches,
you have a shot to get in there and get
it. It's a real struggle keeping things
low production and then keeping making
sure that all your customers actually
get an opportunity to get the watch
because you know I had one guy and I I
felt like it's this is just one story
like I had a customer who sent me a
message after a Panama watch had sold
out and his father was a Panama pilot
and he really wanted one for his father
and I didn't have any to give him. So
like it's it's a constant struggle to
balance the demand which is a great
thing but there's a lot of people that I
want to make sure get watches. So we're
always trying to find the best most
efficient way to do that.
>> Is there a difficulty in or is it about
keeping it hot and and wanting
something? Let's say you do a release.
Could you just say [ __ ] it, it's going
to be 3,000 or is it just way too hard
to do 3,000 at once? At this point for
us, it's too hard to do 3,000 at once.
We don't have that level of production
here. We're really small team. If
there's any level of aging or patina,
I'm so particular with that that it just
couldn't we couldn't at least for now. I
can't say where things will grow and
evolve into, but at least for now, we
just we just couldn't we couldn't do
that. This release with Eric Wind will
be the most we've done at 1900 for uh
for one release, but so you know that
one there's no aging on it. So the the
loom is aged, but there's no like aging
beyond. We have things coming out with
completely patinaed cases and all that
stuff. So that that stuff's always going
to have to be very limited.
>> You got anything else you want to show
the guys?
>> What else do we have here? Um yeah, let
me show you some other cool stuff. I got
it over here. Cool.
couple sneak peeks of of releases that
are coming down the road after the next
win release. So the 2480 that we did.
>> Yeah.
>> That you had initially seen, we have
this coming out next with the beginning
verse. Now this is a 37 mm.
>> Right. Right.
>> So this will be coming out next. And
then this one I'm really excited about
the Heritage Chronograph,
>> which is what the Moholland is. That's
really the um the cornerstone now. like
that's our line that I want to keep. So,
this is a fun
um Heritage Chronograph that we have.
>> Oh, look at that
>> with the black and white piano dial.
I've done different variations of this
before and people seem to go crazy over
these. So, again, we had a lot of people
asking when these are coming out. So,
this will be about September.
>> Wow, that's crazy because it's for those
people that are like, "Do you go black
dial or white dial Daytona?" You know,
>> and there's both. So, and then this
would be another one of our patina
samples that we're working on. This is a
oneoff watch, but that shows some of our
tropical dials. And we have a lot of
really cool patina stuff that's coming
out. So, that's what will take us
through the end of this year and then
into 2027 is when we're really going to
start pushing more with the patina.
>> What's the average thickness of these
cases? Since they're courts, they got to
be a little thinner, right?
>> Yeah. So you're it it it all depends.
Every single watch is different. Now
they're not all quartz. So like
>> this is automatic. We do have an
automatic chronograph coming out as
well. That's still very early in the
prototype stages, but I do try to keep
all the geometry of the watches very
true to vintage aesthetics.
>> So you know, I'm I'm I don't I I I don't
like the way big watches wear on me.
I've always preferred smaller watches.
So, that comes first and foremost with
everything. And that's the secret to
really giving the watch that vintage
feel is the proper dimensions. Well, I
think once Tutor figures out their fat
watch bodies, you know, they're going to
dominate because right now they're
constantly taking chances and putting
out incredible stuff, but they're these
hamburger cases and you put them on and
they just, you know, they just [ __ ]
move over to the left or whatever.
They're just too fat. You can't get them
underneath a jacket.
So once they figure it out and and and I
know what it is, they're still just
using these old style movements uh that
are thick, but once they get a fully
redesigned movement, they're going to
start putting some serious punishment on
the upper brands, you know.
>> Sure. Sure.
>> Yeah. And you know, people pe you can
see it everywhere, too. You were able to
see it with I mean, the Bronco, there's
just been so many people like that. that
vintage aesthetic. There's there's just
a thing and it's something that I've
never really understood why brands don't
don't go in that direction even more. As
much as I love Porsche and I'm a huge
fan of that brand, I think even they
could they did it with their sport
classic, but like
>> I mean, who has a Sport Classic? Like,
I've never even seen one. It's
the ST. Like, I wish there could be more
stuff like that that's done at a level
for more for normal people to take and
enjoy. The ST is an amazing car. It's
like half million bucks. Well, I don't
understand Harley-Davidson. They have
the technology right now to put out a 36
knucklehead. You know, you get like the
modern SNS style knucklehead engine and
you make a 36, you know, bike and you
just call it the 36. You got to mine
your [ __ ] past. It's your past. It's
your history. Sure, you want to go
forward, but also go, "Oh, over here is
our vintage line." And man, you know how
many people would buy the 36 knucklehead
right now that runs new?
>> 100%. I actually had a bike just like
that. It was built, but I had a bike
just like that with the SNS knuckle.
100%. And it's something that I've just
not really been clear on why more brands
don't see that. You know, that was that
what you just mentioned was a great
idea. They did have their revival line,
which, you know, from a distance, like
it definitely did what it was supposed
to do. Like it had that vintage
aesthetic, but again like the size, all
of it was really off to what the
original bikes were like.
>> Yeah. Yeah. Like Indians killing it with
that new classic with the big fenders
and everything came out.
>> Yeah. I I've not ridden one. I've not
I've not been on one, but people seem to
really really love them.
>> Oh, I've been riding one. They they
loaned me one and man it is I mean the
perfect it's got the big motor but it's
got the looks of the 50s4s Indian with
the huge fenders. It's got the Indian
head on the fender on the front that
lights up.
>> It just boogies. The riding position is
perfect. But it has those big fenders
and the solo seat. You look at it 10
feet away, you go, "Wow, man." You know,
>> now I know you had Guard on and I was
always a huge fan of Guard. Did you know
him when he was at uh had the Indian
dealer on Seova?
>> I did. Yeah.
>> Or Lincoln. It was.
>> Yeah. Yep.
>> So that was
>> that Indian dealer.
>> That was my That was when Indian had
first came back and they had some cool
looking bikes, but this time now it's
it's a it's a whole different thing.
>> Yeah. The problem with those Indians
were, you know, they had the round
cylinder motors which looked cool as
[ __ ] but the all the stuff just it, you
know, I don't even think they were
counterbalanced at the time. So
everything just vibrated and broke off.
>> Right. Right.
>> And then, you know, they of course, you
know, you had any kind of warranty
issues and they're like, uh, you know,
but now they're really killing it. the
[ __ ] is just like, you know, they had
all that years as victory or whatever,
you know, uh they were before. And so,
yeah, they're killing it. And and
Harley's killing it with like the, you
know, the the crazy those ST or
whatever, you know, CVOS.
>> I see them and they're they're cool when
I see them, but I've not paid that close
attention to any of the new There was a
new dealership out here. It didn't last
that long.
>> I know. That thing's gone.
>> Yeah. And it seemed like it should have
worked like seeing where it was in the
whole thing, but I I haven't kept up
with a lot of that when we were talking
about builders from back in the early
2000s that inspired us. Guard Hollinger
was also in that list. He was I was very
very into stuff that Guard was doing
back then and now too. Same thing with
Arch. I'm a big big fan of Arch.
>> Also, rest in peace Jesse Rook. Man,
that guy was making stuff that was
insane. They looked like Schwin
bicycles.
>> Insane.
>> Nobody made anything. Like talk about
art. That was like what the [ __ ]
>> Yep. Yeah. That was really back then a a
lot of guys were like you would go
around, you'd see these shops. It was
such a really creative cool time. I
don't know why that all stopped and kind
of got like out of vogue. I'm not
>> I don't think it got out of vogue. I
think what happens is, and whenever I
see someone go, "Oh, $100,000 for a
chopper." I go, "Dude, you know how long
it takes to build that [ __ ] bike man
hours?" It's like without the t-shirt
business, Jesse would have been gone
years ago because like even if you look
right now at the Brad Pitt Paul Cox
Indian Larry bike, the whole thing is
hand engraved.
>> Oh, the bike's phenomenal. Well, Tay did
that whole motor.
>> Yeah, that bike.
>> He ended up doing the frame like six
years ago. Brad's like, I want the frame
done, too. And they did the [ __ ]
frame.
>> Wow. I didn't I haven't seen it since
they did the frame. That's a great great
bike.
>> That's my favorite chopper.
>> What's that?
>> That's my favorite chopper.
>> Love it. He has another one, too. Bone
crusher that Paul I I don't know if
Indian Larry Legacy did it or Paul Cox
did it. I think Indian Larry Legacy did
it. I actually saw the bike once riding
by and just again the stance, the
geometry, that rear wheel, it's
everything that I like a chopper to be.
It was very, very impressive when I saw
it. Paul Cox, Paul Cox and Kano, those
are other ones. They're just like so
Paul Cox, I think anything that guy
touches is cool. Like if he he could
make you anything and it's just
unbelievable the artistry that comes
from him.
>> That guy's a freak of like his hands are
magic. What do you want to [ __ ] see?
You want a knife, you want a sword, you
want a chopper, you know, you want a
[ __ ] uh, you know, a Corvette fender.
This guy, there's nothing he can't do.
>> I know. It's phenomenal. It's really,
really phenomenal. And again, that goes
towards that time period and the
creativity that was coming out of these
people. I mean, like, the truth is, you
go see somebody like Billy Lane, and I
don't know if you ever went to a shop
when it was in Melbourne, Florida, but
like you're around a modern artist.
That's what you're around. Like the guy
is just everything he touches is like
it's really impressive the stuff that
he's doing.
>> Unbelievable.
>> Well, it's great catching up with you,
man. And congrats on the watch company
and all you do. Good stuff, man. Really
just really kickass like daily watches,
you know? You're looking for a daily
driver, this is it. True North right
here.
>> Awesome. Well, it was great talking and
great catching up with you, by the way.
>> Come see a show, dude.
>> I will do. I will do. Let's make sure
that we exchange we have everybody's
information and um and I will do
>> Yeah. Come out and see some comedy and
we'll do a flashback of uh back when we
used to go to the Laugh Factory.
>> Yeah. There we go. There we go. Maybe
we'll take some bikes to get there.
Well, hey, it was it was it was great
talking to you and you're also welcome
to come down to the studio anytime.
>> I'm going to come there for sure. And I
can't wait to see my watch, man. That
thing is cool as [ __ ]
>> I'm gonna have it off later today. All
right. Thanks, man. Great speaking with
you.
>> See you.