Dectron Pool Unit Nightmare: High Head Pressure!

We go. Okay. Sometimes this works, sometimes it don't. That works real great. Oh, great. Now they don't even want to work. That's great. Freaking garbage, man. I hate dealing with this. >> This video is brought to you in part by True Tech Tools. Quality tools. Essential support. All right, guys. So, it's bright and sunny out here, but let's go inside. We're going to take a look at this Deckron unit. I've worked on this thing before actually. Uh I think I made a video on it earlier this year or you know technically the end of last year and replaced some three-way valves uh stuff like that and it's basically making the water way too hot and they say it's not the boiler doing it. Uh Detectron unit basically dehumidification for pool areas. So you've got air conditioning and dehumidification. So you got reheat meaning they use the condenser uh water instead of running it into a water tower. They run it into the air path and if they don't need that then it goes into the water tower. also has a boiler as backup which allows it to keep the air temperature warm enough so that you're above the pool temperature by a degree or two. I just got here and took a quick look at it and trying to figure and track things down cuz I mean I don't have this thing memorized. It's a little different than the one I have at one of my other locations. So, let's go in here and take a look at it. All right, so we've got one compressor here. My other unit I work on has like four total. So, this compressor I was following the pipes here to try to figure out what's going on. So, we've got the discharge gas here. You can kind of see that green laser there, maybe. Comes across and comes up to these two valves. These valves are what I changed here and here. And then you got a bypass, so to speak, that goes around them. It can go through this valve right here and down into that coax coil there. And then this one here comes in and goes to this coax coil. Coax coil just water and refrigerant loop. So comes into that, comes out of it here, comes around, goes down through a check valve, and who knows what it's doing. So it's a little confusing. I'm wondering, are these valves acting up or what's going on? So when this is usually running, you got this blower here just cranking some major CFM across it, going to the duck work that then goes on out. So it makes a lot of noise. So, here's the boiler coil, and you've got the reheat coils right over here. These are the condensers when they're doing dehumidification. Otherwise, these are bypassed. Here's your evaporator one. Evaporator number two. And like I said, I've replaced all the core dryers. I just checked that valve over there. They just turned the water towers back on. So, they don't understand why it's getting so hot now. They turn it on. So it uh can bring outside air in here through this one here which goes onto the outside, comes across into here. This is closed. The other location I work at, half the controls on it don't work. This one here, I don't know, kind of partially. I just kind of recently started doing this. One of the other guys uh retired and so it's my baby now. Being it's getting uh hot in there makes me Okay. is does it do it when the system is just calling for cooling? Because in reality, if it's not the reheat causing it, cuz they claim that they turned off Yeah, that's open. That's good. They claim they turned off the boiler and it was still getting warm, which means the reheat would be doing all of the work there, causing it to get warm. You would think that's assuming that the valve isn't screwed up. So, you got all kinds of little hidden things like that right there. little screens or check valves comes into that and then would come out like here you got liquid coming in. So after it condenses it in that coil there either going to the roof to the water tower or coming over through this coil here. It then turns into liquid. The liquid then there it is. It goes back in there of course underneath there. You can't even see any of that. Goes into there and then comes back. So I got to see what that that valve does. Comes through the filter dryer, then into the evaporators. The evaporators are pretty much always getting some some love from the liquid refrigerant. Goes through, comes back, the two combined together here, and on back it goes to the compressor. So the basic refrigeration system is pretty simple. You know, when you don't throw all this extra crap in there, that's when everything goes to crap. So like I said, it comes into an accumulator and uh you got valve there. It's open into this. It's probably not a filter dryer. It's probably just a screen. Then it comes back into the compressor. What we need to find out now is we're going to have to turn it on. We're going to have to see what gets hot, what don't get hot. My biggest thing I wanted to know was what's going on here. There's those two pipes that were coming back. So, if it goes into the reheat valve or into the reheat coil here, it's going to come back on these two here. One's going to come through, come up to here, and there's a uh looks like an AXV, but it's some sort of motorized valve. Then comes up, comes through this thing, then goes into this receiver and comes into the receiver on the low half. The other one comes up and comes on. Okay, so up here is the end. Comes in on the end here. I got to make sure all these are open. So if it goes into these reheat coils, which are condensers, goes into the receiver and goes on out. Kind of the same thing with the other stuff. If it goes into the coax coils on one, it's going to come out through a check valve. The other one's probably going to come out of it, too. Yep. As a check valve, and then comes out and then goes up to this little goofy device, which is basically another valve that's going to send it one way or the other. So it's either going to run this one over to that flat plate heat exchanger. That's a coaxial and that's flat plate. comes across, goes to this thing. And that one, look at that. It comes into that top here. Yeah. And that's the inlet. So, what the crap? So, that's the return path. That's the outlet. The outlet. So, yeah. Anyhow, that kind of gives you an idea of what's going on. I'm going to need to study for a moment here what we got going on. But that's a bit a gist of how everything is. So, there's something weird going on here. here. Maybe there's a valve open that shouldn't be open. And we'll figure this out. I think I might have found one of the problems. So, this comes back from the condenser or the uh reheat coil and comes up and goes to that valve there. But if you look here, that valve is open and that would bypass it, which then would allow it to bypass and obviously heat when you don't want it to. So, that valve needs to be closed. And you know, when you are doing a repair that somebody else found, but since they're not here no more, you just kind of do what you're told and don't try to go more than that. And this is the kind of crap that happens. One of the many reasons why it's always counterproductive to do a job someone else starts. But in this case here, we had no options. So that one should be closed. And this here for giggles, let's make sure this one here is actually open, which about have to be. Otherwise, it would have probably tripped out on something. Open this valve before startup. Well, yeah, no kidding. That one is open. Okay, good. All right. Now, let's look at some of these other ones, cuz these other ones are kind of like bypass, too. So, this one here, hotter than blue blazes. And see that one says B and A. So I put A, A, B, A right here, and A right there because when we unhooked all these, so I was doing my work, I didn't want to do whatever. Now I don't know if these need to be I don't see these would have to be bypassed because the solenoid should open and close this. So these should be open at this point. I'm just having to go through and double check it. Yeah, that one's open. That one's open, too. We might have got it, but just in case, I don't want to get too big a hurry cuz I was very, very careful with those valves when I did the work on them. And that one there, this is what's kind of confusing. So, you got a check valve here coming [music] from that direction. This one here probably needs to be open. This should probably be open. That's a check valve right there. And it is open. Yeah. We're just making certain that all these are right cuz I mean if that's the case right now basically I just had one mistake so far. That's all it takes to screw you. So this valve here I wasn't sure about the stem. So I checked the stem. I don't want to pull that stem out any further cuz it's that stem's got like a lot of threads on it and I'm worried that it may just back all the way out and then blow the whole charge. Well, we've got a valve there that we can shut which would kill that side. You've got discharge coming over the compressor. I shut that just in case. These are already closed here. So, we're closed here. Closed here. And technically, we're closed here. So, I'm going to back that stem out the rest of the way. It was also leaking a little oil. So, that tells me it's got a little bit of a leak there. So, we got to tighten up. My worry was if I back this out, it's going to blow. It just don't seem like it just don't seem right. And I tried looking it up online. Yeah, I'm just a little I'm thinking if I go any further. Okay, boom. It stopped. Thank goodness. I I'll tell you what, that's experience there. You don't want to do something stupid like that when you ain't 100% certain. I mean, I looked up everything I could find on it online. And normally, a valve is closed and you have to manually stem it open. Those are questionable. Now, here's what happened. This was quoted. I most likely didn't have a lot of time. I don't know what the whole whole story was. You can see I've spent quite a bit of time right now just trying to figure out what I need to do on this thing. So, I'm going to put a little bit of thread tape or something on that thing as an extra precaution. Um, I could not find anything other than it was made in Mexico. Other than that, I didn't find no valve body information on it at all. So, and you know, I looked up that that right there and it just didn't have much. That body [music] there is starting to completely fall apart though. So, let's see if we can push that down. Put that there. And there we go. Good. It's on. Uh, so anyhow, the uh the boiler that he said is off. Can't be off cuz it's it's hotter and crap in there. I mean, I feel tons tons of heat coming in. I mean, I'm I'm radiating radiating off that thing. Yeah, that right there. You got a three-way valve up here. And I kind of figured that that was a possible problem right off the bat. But the only reason why it's doing it now is probably because it's defaulting to that cuz I killed power. It wasn't that hot earlier. So now we've got that done. We'll get that put back to normal. We'll open these valves back up. For the most part right now, it just seems like we got one valve that was well other than those there that were uh one valve is in the wrong position bypassing cuz normally you'd think all your valves need to be out back open if you're not like paying super close attention. [music] But I think this was a day and a half job that I was on this cuz I mean I had to completely recover everything out of it. The evacuation didn't go real great. I think I had to pull forever on it. I think I made a video. I'm almost positive I did. There we go. That would be really bad to ride in that without any without any uh It's so nice and dark in here. Got to love it. Now the stems can go on. They are brass, but they just don't give me the warm fuzzy feeling. Um those have looks like a rubber seal in there. It does have a rubber seal in there. Does that other one have a rubber seal? It's got a rubber seal, too. Maybe it just wasn't tight enough. I don't know. It ain't going to hurt to put a little thread tape around it. It's easy to clean up. Okay, so it looks like the threaded fitting wasn't on quite straight. So, once I straighten it up a little bit, they really didn't make [music] this in a great position to get too much of this, but hopefully that'll keep it from leaking now. Man, I turned that uh power back on and it went back the other direction. The heat's not radiating out as bad as what it was. Okay, other than that, I mean, we got everything pool water coming in. The pool water came into here and here. these two coils. You can see the water going in flow switch that's bypassing and they didn't want to approve. Uh yeah, we'll just not talk about that. So water goes in, refrigerant goes in, refrigerant should come out. There we go. Okay. I had to watch some of this and it's kind of be nice if I made some labels, but this stuff's not going to stick to this. It's all green, nasty, chalky. Ate up from the chlorine. But that discharge gas comes in, goes through, potentially could bypass and let that go in around that valve to let a little something go through into the pool uh while still sending most of it down here to the main valve that's going to send it whether it be to the main condenser or the reheat coil. So that I made a mistake on that one. So that one goes that way or it can go this way. And with judging from that valve there, it looks like it probably can modulate one or the other and do both possibly. Uh which because otherwise it'd be just a solenoid. So can't know everything. Uh you might, but you know, whatever. So I've corrected a couple arrows going in, coming out. They all come in, whether it goes through that reheat coil, which is basically then your condenser. They all combine together. They come through and they come to that one valve there, which is a metering device, probably a holdback valve. That's if your uh pressures and stuff are too low. It's going to hold it back just like you would on a rack. That valve has to be shut and then it's going to come into the receiver. Then you got liquid going back out to the metering devices over here for the evaporator. So in reality, the only evaporators you got are over here for cooling. The rest of it condensers. Condenser whether it going to water tower, condenser is going into the pool to heat the pool, getting free heat there. And if it needs dehumidification, it's going to take that hot gas and run it into the coil that's behind here to reheat the air. So that's how it basically is able to maintain close to the same temperature uh by neutralizing the cold air, which then causes it to sweat. When it sweats, it dehumidifies and there you go. So yeah, it just took a second to kind of follow it around. I think my only problem is that valve right there. We're going to put her together and kick it on and see how it does. Blower on. Well, that sounded good. Humidity 75%. That's going to change as the unit starts running. Yeah, I had to go through here and mark things out. There's your book. Right here's something I see done wrong all the time. Somebody just tease off and decides to feed another evaporator. They should be bullheaded into it. Bam. That way it has to go equally one way or the other. That's the right way. You can also do it in series. Okay, I just tested this out and labeled it because I think this is going to be my baby. Open definitely's down here. I uh flipped the switch here on the side to see what it would change to and sure enough I had a lot of heat coming out. Closes up here. These little quick reference checks just make it easier. Sure, marker looks kind of crappy at points, but I mean when you can't read the freaking display, I mean, give me a break. Supply air is going up in temperature again. Great. Now it's coming down. It must have that or it shut off. Yeah, it's 410A. So, 460 lb. Evaporator is 86. It's dropping. So, something had it must have kicked in. We either weren't in a happy spot or something, but something must have just kicked in. Our evaporator wouldn't be dropping in temperature otherwise and we go into an alarm piece of you know now I think about it that would have been liquid refrigerant coming back condensed refrigerant it would have bypassed the holdback valve which would have caused lower condensing temperature. Now for all I know that one right there may not work and maybe that's why it was acting like that. So what I need to know is if the reheat is getting energized. So, I shut everything down so I could get the doors off cuz this is a pain in the butt. My other one I've got has nice hinges on it, and that's older than this one. So, they must have cut cut cost and got rid of the hinges. Or maybe it was an option. I don't know. Either way, they've changed their name so many times, and it's just it's a Canadian company, so half the time you get somebody that speaks French and barely can speak English, and then they all got bought out. It's a pain in the ass. Unfortunately, they own all of them. So, let's go ahead and turn everything back on. They've got their own maintenance, guys, for a lot of that crap. They don't even sound faster than what it should be. See if this thing kicks on here in a second. If it does, we'll be able to tell whether or not there's hot discharge gas coming through the reheat coil, which in reality it should be because we need to run cooling plus the reheat to bring the humidity down. One of the problems I had with my other one was the reheat would cause it to go off on high head pressure, kind of like what it's doing here. And um I had to bypass that. And because they had no money, I had to basically make it run the boiler with the air conditioning, which is totally inefficient. But when you don't have $400,000 to replace one of these, that's what you have to do. 350 400 What's $50,000 anymore nowadays? Wow, that thing is squeaking like a song bird. Not as bad when you got the door on. We had a compressor, high pressure fault. And I think the compressor just came on. Let's go back here. Should be able to feel Oh, yeah. That's hot gas coming through there. That's hot. Definitely. Okay, that's hot liquid coming into the EXV into the TXV. Starting to get cold there. Starting to get cold there. Look at that. We got flashing going on here, which is great. Uh, grant it just kicked on. Hopefully, it goes solid. Outlet, it's subcooled. Inlet, pretty warm. Okay, so that means everything seems to be going the right direction there. That that liquid though is hotter than crap. So, we're not getting anything going into our main condenser, I bet you. Cuz I mean, to be honest with you, the the outlet the hot it's coming in hot. Well, it was. It just went away. Discharged 448. So, it sounds like we're having our problem in our in our reheat. So, the reheat might be our issue. That would be that valve I replaced. Hopefully, the right ones. Right now, we're fine. Evaporated temperature is 55° even though we're bypassing a lot of the air. 448 on head pressure. Yeah, we're sweating there. That's still got a lot of flashing. Okay, let's see if we can close this up a little bit more than what it was. There we go. That way we got a little something there. Forcing it through the evaporator. If you look at the way they do this, technically they got quite a bit of area there that bypasses at the top. So, this little bit here is not even as much as what that is, and that's going around the evaporator. I think what you're going to what you're going to find out is once that uh reheat valve energizes, that's when everything's going to go to crap. What sucks is that you can't hardly get into it because everything's in the main path. And so for you to get in there to feel what's going on, it's nearly impossible. One valves were bypassing 100%. Like right now, we're good. Evaporator temps 49°. Looking good there. Discharge temps 130. Looking good there. You know, high pressure 450 something. Looking good there. No major issues yet. Temperature is 84. Relative humidity 67. Supply air 74. So we're we are bringing the temperature down. That's because we're purely running in air conditioning mode. Pressure starting to jump. You don't want that outlet air to get too cooled because well, here's outlet. It's 89. So that's not horrible. You want to keep it, like I said, you don't want you only want to be you want to be a degree or two above it. That way you don't evaporate your water which creates more humidity. Turns 84. I think 84 85 is what they're running here. I think what we're running into and we should be able to come over here to the condenser outlet tower out. It's not really hot by any stretch. Tower in. Pretty dang cold actually. About feels the same there. You got like a possibly a screen or something going on here. Screen. Yeah, most likely a screen. I don't know if that's ever been checked. So, if you look here, 85 and 89 out. So, we're actually gaining some water temperature on our pool. Compressor still holding 475, which we're good there. But our problem lies with that reheat. And it should tell me reheat here in a minute. The mode we're in. See if we can escape out of here. Set points. Here we go. Now, this this keypad needs replaced. Humidity is at 45. So, it's set for 50%. I think it was right. Yeah, right here. And it kind of wrote here water 86. So they've actually lowered it 86 87. Here we went 8485. So they've lowered it one degree. I don't know if I ever made the video actually. I made a video of this and I don't think I ever used it. Here's some selectable options. We had to go into the code there. Auxiliary heating enabled. Yes. And is it working? Yes. Yeah, that valve I said >> yeah, >> that wouldn't have done it after all. I got looking a little closer. I thought it would have that actually would have just made a problem if it was running in cold weather. >> Okay. So, I was hoping maybe I found something. It wasn't, you know, it didn't didn't help it none if it was running in the winter, but it can't run in the winter cuz you don't have a Yeah. >> Uh, so I what's happening is it's going into reheat and that's when it's actually tripping high pressure. Uh, right now it's not doing nothing wrong. It's actually air conditioning and it's actually keeping moderate temperatures. But when it did the reheat, that's when the uh temperature went up crazy high and then I tripped out on head [music] pressure. Was you getting alarms on it when when uh it was acting up? >> I didn't even give it let it get to that point because the temperature was going up so much so quickly. I went it ain't working right. You noticed it immediately. Burn anything up. No, like I said, within minutes, >> okay, >> this thing just kept going up and temperature went down, but the air temperature just went freaking through the roofs. I I didn't even give it the opportunity to alarm out. >> Okay. >> And again, that was just me here yesterday. >> Yeah. Right now it's not running the reheat or yeah the reheat right now which it probably should being and this heat pad needs about replaced. I don't know if I can I don't know if I can clean it. It's about to the point where it doesn't want to hit it just right on that center damn thing. I don't >> so discharges around 440. We're good right now. But it's not running and that's the reason why I left open that thing down here. This is the reheat. The way that it dehumidifies without overcooling it is by running hot gas into this coil right here. It's not doing it now. I did it earlier, but it ain't doing it now. I mean, the thing I changed basically sends the refrigerant one direction or another. Okay, the belts. I changed these back in 24. They take care of those themselves. There's quite a few factories up here. So, he said they might have some. Yeah, I changed them things back in September of 24. So, it's a year and a half, almost 2 years old. I like seeing them done every every year. These things run non-stop to to look at it like that one there is looser in a goose. Um, but the biggest thing is when you look at the inside here, that's that's so rounded. It's not gripping. And there's a little bit of wear inside that pulley there. Oh, and there's a bunch of wear in here. Oh my god. Both pulleys need replaced. You're just destroying the new belts. Oh god. Yeah, these pulleys need replaced. They're not going to do that either. Jesus. But that wouldn't cause your head pressure to go high. Well, you know what though? If your airflow sucks. Well, either way it goes after it gets done with the condenser, after it gets done with the reheat, it goes to the regular condenser, I think. Pretty positive. Yeah, it goes in there one or the other. Comes out of there. I don't know if it's smart enough to automatically modulate. Yeah. And then that's when it goes through that little weird valve there. Maybe leaving that open was probably the way to try to save its ass. Yeah, cuz if you don't have enough air flow and they're running through the reheat, I guess it depends if you ain't get enough air through the reheat. Well, surprisingly, there's a big industrial place down there that had these belts. So, we got lucky on that. Heck, they even had the nice uh posyillock polers and stuff like I've got a selection of them. Most nobody has those. So, we'll get these on there. They'll be good enough till they wear them out because of the pulley. But those pulleys need replaced. I told him that. So, we'll have to see whether or not they decide to do anything with that. Have to get some measurements on it. They can even replace that themselves, too. I don't really care. I just want it to work. It's all I care about. Just like And just like that, we got those on there. Yes, you definitely need to loosen that up and get them on there without rolling them on cuz you technically break the belts. Marked on there that the pulleys are worn so somebody can say, "Yeah, I told them right back on that date." Let's put it back together. See how it acts. Um I'm hoping that we were losing enough air flow that that's our whole problem. Let's see how much noise this makes. Oh, look at that. No squawk at all. Oh, wow. You can see some major air flow difference. Hear it. Plain as day. Listen to this squealing. Oh my gosh. That's 10 times air flow. Oh my gosh. Yeah, I think that might be our issue. I think that might have been our issue. He said he didn't even notice that happening. Cars tripping out. Oh, there she goes. Okay, I've got heat on this reheat valve. I can feel it plain as day. Nice and hot. Don't really care for it. Don't really want to hold on to it. Let's go to the outgoing side. Outgoing side ain't too bad. Let's see. Let's go ahead and put this thing back together. There we go. 72% humidity. 83 84. We go. Okay. So, now you can't replace the keypad. All you can replace is the liquid crystal display. Well, I'll clean those up with some rubbing alcohol. You know, what might actually pretty decent [gasps] is lens wipes. Good enough for your lenses. Should definitely be good for that. Not for contact lenses. Go figure, right? Those sides here. I should get them clean. Not a lot to be seen. Sometimes this works, sometimes it don't. It's just a crap shoot. Sometimes clean inside of the lens while we're at it. Right. There we go. Just like brand new. All right, let's put it back together here and see what happens. You have to press hard on that. Press enter. That works real great. These buttons over here work real good. Be nice if I could switch these buttons for these buttons. Maybe see if that makes a difference. Oh, great. Now they don't even want to work. That's great. Head pressure fault. That's great. Call for dehumidification. Blower on. Head pressure control modulating 100%. Head pressure control, which would be that most likely that valve coming back. Um, could also be the one going to the condensers. I'm not sure which one. So, that button works now, but the other one don't want to work. Freaking garbage, man. I hate dealing with this Whatever's going on, it's just basically slamming it right. Oh, it went way stupid high and it tripped. So, it's really seeing it, but it's like it's not it's not getting wherever it needs to go. Something's not right. Something's blocking my refrigerant path. How you're supposed to diagnose that when you can't even get inside there is beyond me. It's got an idea. We're going to use the probes there. Put them inside there. And we are going to see where we're losing uh where we're basically getting too much heat. We can do it in and out. We're going to clean it up here with the uh brush wheel. We're going to see where the hot gas is going. Is it going through this side of the valve or the other side of the valve? We're going to put the suction temp on the reheat side because reheat would be kind of like an alternative. And we'll put the discharge or the high side one [sighs and gasps] on the one that would go to the normal condenser cuz that's just what you'd normally do. You go to the normal condenser. So there we go. Both of them got some juice on them. Now I've got four other ones I can go grab. We'll see how these do first. You know what? Screw it. Let's go grab the other ones. Okay. So, we've got some brand new ones here. Then I've got this one here. I hate the way they all get beat up. Look ugly. That's the only thing bad about yellow. Now I can go through and find them all. 1 2 3 4 5 six of them. I don't think I have six, do I? Okay, so here's an update of what's going on here, cuz this is a totally flicking joke. So that valve that I thought I screwed up on, which I kind of probably did. When I close that off, that was causing my discharge to go crazy high because the other valve beside it that's supposed to do all the work, it obviously ain't opening. So, we open it back up. Now, it runs without tripping head pressure. Look, it holds right in there at 347. Now, this one right here, I was looking at the wrong two when I was when I was doing this. This is my reheat, 88°. 110 is my regular coax coil or my flat plate, whatever you want to call it. That's my condensing temperature right there, 111. So, that other valve probably needs replaced. I don't know why I'm on that refrigerant. Not that it really would matter. Yeah, let's change that to 4010A. There we go. Select. Okay. So, either way, um, yeah, that's what's going on. We're not tripping out no more. We got good air flow. Our humidity is coming down. So, I mean, it's doing everything it should. So, we're back to the original reason for being here, which was why did the room get so flipping hot. I think that valve over there, which is wide open right now, is what's doing it? Because, you know, we're at 84. That's returns 84. It should modulate down. Now, that valve don't modulate down over there cuz you can see that it's freaking way up. This is closed and that there's open right now. It's wide open. So, it's letting should be letting some really hot freaking water through which [music] Yeah, you don't want to hold on to that one. And this is heating water coil out. I can hold on to that one now. And so, they're yanking a crap ton of heat out of it. Like I said, we're doing full bore there. So, we got to watch it and see if this stupid thing modulates shut. If it don't modulate shut, cuz they had shut [music] down the pool, too. the when it somehow kept the temperature. Okay, our humidity is getting dog on close here. Um, your sensor readings, which is supply air coming in at 87, inlet, outlet. So, outlet, you know, sensors, that's for pool. So, we're still putting heat into the pool. 345 discharge temp 144 which this one here doesn't say we're that hot which really kind of makes me wonder how should be 115 actually I don't understand how that's accurate cuz that is un well the pools might be stealing some of it too I probably could put another probe on the the compressor it's just so hard to look at your freaking gauges [music] and do all this crap you our humidity we're bringing her down quick There's 87. So, we should hopefully the inlet we're right now our inlet's 85. So, this thing should come up then that thing should modulate down. If it does, then I don't know where to go from there. Okay, our sight glass looks fine. It's completely completely full. So, that's good to know that I got a nice green indicator there, which I think I replaced that. So, our sight glass is full. That's good. Yeah, we're not getting no reheat up here at the top. Yeah, we're getting water. You can see the water down there. Yeah, our our uh reheat here is completely completely not hot at all, which our gauges should show that. And they do. 87 at three heat 109 is the condenser. I would be curious to know what my discharge is. Kind of like to see that. But we're at 53% humidity. So, let's have a we have a 50% uh humidity setting. This was the old one was 87 for the air. Now it's 84. I guess water is 8 was 86. Now it's 85. I don't know. At this point, if it starts to modulate up, if it starts to hit temperature, then I don't know what to do after that. As of right now, all I know is I found that we had a problem with the modulating sensor, which I was going to try to find in the book, which is real thin. And then they probably aren't going to want to replace it, so it'll work without it. Just ain't the way it needs to be.