Video summary
In this episode of Brooklyn Talks, footwear designer Salehe Bembury joins abstract artist Futura and art critic Antwaun Sargent to explore the intersections of creativity, independence, and cultural evolution. The conversation traces Bembury's fifteen-year journey from an early obsession with shoes to industrial design training at Pay Less Shoes, eventually leading to high-profile collaborations with major brands like Yeezy, Versace, Puma, Crocs, New Balance, and Moncler before his 2025 launch of the independent label Spongewear. Futura is celebrated as a pioneer who successfully bridged graffiti culture with formal art galleries, while Sargent provides critical insight into Black artistry through his work as both curator and writer. Together, they discuss how these three figures navigate different creative spaces, adapting their personas whether in high-fashion environments or street culture contexts without losing their authentic voices.
A central theme of the dialogue is the pursuit of independence versus employment, with Bembury framing the launch of ventures like Spongewear not merely as business moves but as essential acts of reclaiming autonomy and avoiding external control or debt. Both artists emphasize transparency in their professions, drawing inspiration from Virgil Abloh to demystify design by sharing sketches, prototypes, and failures rather than hiding behind polished final products. They also address the role of fear in creativity; while Bembury views it as a vital signal that one cares deeply about their work—often applying the seven stages of grief to creative projects—Futura focuses on meeting expectations by offering partners choices rather than imposing singular ideas, thereby fostering collaboration over conflict.
The discussion further delves into how technology and cultural shifts impact artistic practice, with Bembury advocating for adaptation through tools like AI and digital software instead of resisting them out of tradition, warning that refusal to evolve can lead to obsolescence. On the subject of style, Bembury rejects the pressure of "peacocking" at fashion weeks in favor of an authentic approach where individuals wear what feels good to them, echoing Bruce Lee's philosophy that true style is having no specific style. He also advises creatives on sustaining their careers by ignoring rejection and finding comfort zones or engaging in mindless activities like sitting alone on trains without phones to observe the world rather than scrolling through social media.
Looking toward the future, Bembury shares his ambition to design functional furniture and potentially create graphics for space travel programs such as NASA's Artemis mission, driven by a childhood fascination with aerospace logos. He concludes that collaborations should end when mutual goals are no longer being met, ensuring energy is directed toward fresh opportunities. The segment wraps up with audience interaction involving a check of the Knicks score before thanking guests Sarah Sargent and Futura, along with acknowledging behind-the-scenes contributors who made the conversation possible. Ultimately, the episode serves as an inspiring guide for creatives seeking to balance commercial success with personal freedom while remaining adaptable in a rapidly changing world.
Read the full video transcript
It is my absolute joy to welcome you to
our first Brooklyn talks conversation of
the spring season, spotlighting the
creative process of influential footwear
designer Selei Benbury. This evening,
Benbury offers a rare glimpse into his
15-year career spanning sketches,
prototypes, and personal reflections. He
is joined on stage by collaborator and
friend Futura and art critic Antoine
Sergeant. Without further ado, I'm
honored to introduce our speakers.
Slehei Benbury is a traditionally stra
trained industrial designer and fine
artist who has become known across the
world for his innovative and
culture-shifting footwear designs. He
has designed footwear for brands such as
Yeezy and Versace and has released
meaningful collaborations via his
namesake studio Benbury with partners
such as Puma, Crocs, New Balance,
Monontlair, Ant Clarks and more. In
2025, he launched Spongewear
brand in which he is both founder and
creative visionary becoming the first
creator to launch and own his own
footwear business.
Futura is an abstract artist whose
multi-dimensional UFA expressed across
painting, drawing, sculpture,
photography, and graphic design is as
venerated for its kinetic power as it is
for its sheer inventiveness. As a
pioneering force when graffiti
intersected with the formal gallery
ecosystem, Futura was one of the first
to introduce abstraction to what was
then an almost entirely letter-based
genre. Exhibitions of his early work
include presentation at Patty Aers's fun
gallery and a and MoMA PS1's
groundbreaking 1981 New York new wave
exhibition where he exhibited alongside
his conte contemporaries and friends
including Keith Herring, Jean Michelle
Bosia, Kenny Sharf, Fe Kenyonz and Raml
Z. In 2022, Roli New York published
Futura the artist monograph. And last,
but certainly not least, Antoine
Sergeant is a writer, curator, and
director at Gagosjan. He is the author
of The New Black Vanguard: Photography
Between Art and Fashion, and the editor
of Young, Gifted, and Black, a new
generation of artists. His writing has
appeared in the New York Times, New
Yorker, GQ, and in museum and gallery
publications for artists including Nick
Cave, Ed Clark, Arthur Jaffa, Maleco
Makosi, and Yinka Shonabar among many
others.
Please help me in giving a warm Brooklyn
welcome to Clei, Futura, and Antoine.
>> Good evening. Good evening. Um, we don't
have a lot of time, so we're going to
jump right in. Um,
sorry.
So, Cai, how did it all begin? I make
shoes. Can you take us to the beginning
of um when you decided that you wanted
to um make shoes and be a creative
person?
>> I know we don't have a lot of time, but
I just want to do a quick warm-up
exercise with to to be in control of
this many people. I'd love if we could
all do the wave. So, I'm going to I'm
going to point to this side and then
we're going to bring it across. Are we
ready?
>> Ready. Go.
>> All right. All right. Wait one more time
for my phone and and then I'll stop.
All right. Ready? Go.
Yeah.
All right. Thank you very much.
>> Oh, how did it start?
>> So, how did you get into footwear?
>> Uh, it started with passion. It started
with an interest in footwear. Um, it all
started with, I guess, creative, uh,
talent, an extreme obsession with
footwear that started as like this niche
interest and then eventually obsession.
Um, and then from there, I majored in
industrial design. The dream was to work
at one of the bigger footwear brands
that I'm sure we're familiar with, but
um, my first job was Pay Less, which I
wasn't that excited about initially, but
um, the most valuable thing that we're
offered early in our careers is
education. And so for Pay Less to make
every type of shoe that was a great
starting point and uh I blossomed from
there.
>> One of the sort of central tenets of
your design career um has been
collaboration and you asked this guy
next to us um Pura to collaborate with
you and I was wondering if you guys
could talk about sort of that
collaboration and how collaboration is
you know in a lot of ways at the heart
of what both of you do. Should it be
good?
>> Uh, yes. So, Lenny and I collaborated on
a croc. Um, the the idea behind that
project, it was called Art Friends
Thumbs Up. Good job. Uh, the croc was
the blank canvas. Yes, that was the
thumbs up. Uh, the project was
essentially taking the Plex as a blank
canvas and inviting artist friends to
come and put their art on that canvas.
And so we worked with Lenny, we worked
with Nina Chanel, we worked with uh
Jonas Wood and I'm forgetting the third
>> Kenny Sharp.
>> There we go. Thank you. And Kenny Sharf.
And that was a way to take something
that was a proven design um and I would
believe almost a perfect design and then
stripping back all of the things that
were established and letting an artist
uh start it from a foundational place.
So when it comes to collaboration, I
often like to work with friends. It's
familiar. It's organic. um business
doesn't really interrupt and uh Lenny
and I have known each other for a while
now. I'm a massive fan of his work and
what he's done in his uh crafts lifetime
and it was an honor to align with him on
a project.
>> Thank you. Thank you. Yeah. Hello
everyone. This is awesome uh to be here
with you. Uh yeah, I mean he asked me uh
to be involved with the Plex um
silhouette and quite frankly based on
that I think that was our doorway into
getting an opportunity to work with
Crocs. So you know how I guess it works
in that uh commercial space. It's like
one artist uh friend uh another
individual as he said you know
just want to organically work with
friends and you know fellow artisans.
So, I was grateful to get that, but the
project we did was awesome, but then it
indirectly, you know, leads to another
event and put me on with the brand and
then maybe I can mix that off with
someone else. You know what I mean? It's
just a kind of continuation, but
obviously that's just like one specific
thing that we did. I think Sponge is
really the the story, right, for where
you've headed.
>> I love that, Ali. you. So, uh yeah, my
current uh most important endeavor that
I'm working on is my footwear brand
Sponge. Um that's a result of the last
15 years of working in footwear and
absorbing, pun intended, um and taking
all of those learnings from all of those
different um startups or high fashion
companies or Yeezy and taking that
insight and creating a footwear brand.
Um we're about eight months in. At some
point, I'm gonna ask everyone to take
out their phones and follow Be a Sponge
at Be a Sponge. I'm dead serious. And um
yeah, that's I mean, yeah, right now
that's just my biggest endeavor. Uh it
matters the most. I think uh early
brands uh the most important thing is
early adapters and people that kind of
get the story that's being told and help
cultivate that community. So that's the
journey I'm currently on. It feels like
starting from scratch a little bit
because I uh have had this
pioneer-esque career where I've climbed
up quite a mountain and now I feel like
I'm starting to climb up a new mountain.
So that's what I'm working on.
>> Yeah. Like the independent brands, you
also started Ptoria Lab Laboratories and
so we're sort of jumping ahead but I
think this is a a good sort of segue.
Why for the both of you is that sort of
independence sort of after the long
careers that you both have had um really
important as artists?
>> Ultimately freedom, right? To do what
you want to do without someone who
controls
uh whether it's financial interest or
you know they they did you a favor and
you know it's just sort of like you're
indebted to them. I mean, I've always
tried to navigate from the puppeteer,
uh, you know, someone who does have
those controlling strings on me, which,
you know, yeah, that's that's not the
case of my life. But I think more
importantly, just, you know, you
mentioned it. I think I'm more driven by
just being creative and doing what I
want to do. Even before being creative,
I just want to do what I want to do. and
therefore I I can't have people in
positions, you know, to tell me what to
do or, you know, how to do or or or any
of that. So independence is required,
although I've always said it's expensive
because you don't have some resources
maybe uh can't make rent, can't do
whatever. But if you you know believe I
mean I've always believed in a in a
return on investment and the investment
isn't financial it's is sort of physical
mental
and I could speak from some uh
experience that that did happen although
I can tell you many times along the way
I was not confident it would or
I mean at this point in my career there
have been many moments
uh professionally that I thought, oh,
this is not working. But Futura Labs,
that's that's not really new. That's
just a spin-off from myself as, you
know, it's like a dual personality
event where I'm an artist, you know, I'm
Lenny, I'm future laboratory, you know,
it's sort of like a multitude of of of
sort of roles I'm playing, but more
comfortable being me. Uh, grateful for
Futura to allow that to happen.
And Futura Laboratories is just like a
fun thing to do with uh commercial
products and you know clothing or
accessories you know any any of the
everyday items. Uh it's hard to
determine what that is because some
things are standard and some things will
arrive you know tomorrow in the future.
So just keep my eyes open. Slee sponge
you know just as a word play thing
because I know you're about that too and
I and I love that. Uh yeah, I think that
explains a lot of the type of people
that we are that we're observant and
absorbing and you know, you're aware of
your surroundings and you want to adapt
into that kind of location and fit in,
if you will. Um I've always wanted to
fit in. I think graffiti indirectly
really helped me do that. I'm I'm so
grateful to the time I was born in this
city and what occurred and my
contribution was in in the moment
nothing more than me trying to maintain
my individuality but as a result uh it's
like a pi piper effect we had and a lot
of other people uh embrace the same
mindset and
you know without them I'm probably not
with you you you know it would have
taken the entire it's not even a village
you know this is a big big planet and
young people around the world embraced
our you know whatever uh desire to
communicate express ourselves you know
short of
stealing paint uh I don't know um I have
more fun stealing than painting but just
to say
>> but
sort of
you sort ort of started your own
independent company, but there are
moments along the way. One of them being
sort of the job at Versace. Can you talk
about sort of how that came about?
>> Yes. So, if you're familiar with my
career, I'm sure you've heard this story
at least once, so I apologize, but I'm
going to tell it exactly like you've
heard it because I go on autopilot when
uh I tell this story. But essentially,
um for context, I moved out to Los
Angeles to work for Kanye. I did that
for about a year. That job ends. I was
fired. I look up. I'm like, "Oh my god,
I'm in Los Angeles. What do I do?" Um,
so I start shooting my shot at any brand
that would accept my email, LinkedIn
message, Craigslist email. I don't know
if Craigslist is still around. Um, oh,
it is. Okay, cool. Awesome. Good
resource. Um, and so I was on LinkedIn.
I reached out to a Versace design
director and I was at the height of
unemployment in my underwear eating
cereal on my couch to paint a picture.
and I proposed an opportunity. I said
the sneaker industry is a multi-billion
dollar business. Traditionally, um the
sneaker consumer, at least back then,
was not really too familiar with fashion
brands and the potential that they had.
Um and I proposed that they had an
opportunity to enter the space. They had
such strong DNA. The Grea, which is like
that pattern, the Baroque print, which
is like the golden floral pattern, and
the Medusa, which and this is all brand
DNA that could be translated into a
footwear program. So, this is me
shooting my shot defeated. I pro I
actually emailed Zara the same day. I
was I would have taken either job. Um
and a few days later, Donatella Versace
got back to me. She said she loves my
ideas. She wants me to come to Milan and
tell her more. So I was going to put
together a few pages of trend of like
this is what I think is cool, which at
the time would have probably been
screenshots of like high piece photos or
some [ __ ] Um, and then the week leading
up, maybe it was the universe, I had
some really influential conversations
where someone told me that I should put
sample design work in the presentation.
Don't assume they know I can design.
Someone else was like, "Go to the store,
do your market research, learn about um
the the existing footwear program."
Someone else reminded me that there's
not too many people that look like me in
the high fashion space, so it's bigger
than me and I could be paving away, so
take it seriously. um what was going to
be a four-page presentation turned to it
turned into about a 40-page
presentation. I go to Milan. Um by the
way, it's really cool that he's able to
keep up with me. I've been keeping him
outside. Can we can we give a round of
applause for for him? All right.
Um and so yeah, so yeah, so I went to
Milan um to meet Donatella in her regal
uh royal looking office and just you
know, I've been breathing bleeding
footwear for my entire life. So, I was
just regurgitating all of these like
lifelong learning sponge, right? Um, and
she loved it. She started bringing more
people in. Uh, at the end of it, she was
like, "I love you. You're hired. Do you
want to move to Milan? Do you want to
consult? What do you want to do?" She
was extremely open about it. So, I
proposed having my own design studio in
Los Angeles and then traveling to Milan
once a month for factory visits and
shows or what have you. And she agreed.
Um I went outside and did my pursuit of
happiness like
um and then my life uh kind of instantly
changed and what's ironic is like a week
later I was offered the job at Zara
which I if let's say Donatella was like
on vacation and had to delay giving me
the opportunity I would have taken the
Zara job. So very representative of
where I was in my journey at that time.
But also what's more important about
that story is I meet a lot of people
that are either one or the other. They
either ask questions or they don't. Some
people believe if you ask a question,
you're going to get like laughed out of
a room. Um, and I have no shame. I will
ask whatever, you know. Um, and so yeah,
so I think what's important about this
story is to ask. And you know, the worst
thing that can happen is no. And I uh
fundamentally changed my entire life by
asking. So hopefully that inspires that.
>> Yeah.
One of the things that's sort of
interesting about you both is like the
way you move through space, right? So,
you talked about easy, you talked about
sort of like being more comfortable sort
of, you know, outside of like, you know,
sort of traditional um hierarchies or
spaces. I was wondering
um if you could talk about sort of the
way that you sort of move through space
as artist and um you know you talked
about Zara being no different for you
than Versace, right? And um and that
sort of level of like and then also
working with Crocs, working with Yeezys,
you know, like working through those
different um in those different spaces
which very different design briefs with
very different ideas about what is
accessible or possible or luxury or not
or what have you. And I was wondering
how do you square that because both of
you have sort of moved through these
spaces in some in a really seamless way.
um how do you sort of square those
different sort of ideas around
um you know luxury but also high and low
or what have you?
>> I I think it's important to be a a high
observer. So I'm a big believer in fake
it till you make it. So within a lot of
the opportunities I've received if they
ask me if I can do something I say yes
and then figure it out later. Um and
yeah just be a chameleon. Observe your
environment. Even coming here, I was
like, I kind of want to do the wave, but
if I don't do see enough smiles in this
room, I ain't going to do it. So, just,
you know, observe your environment and
then act accordingly.
>> Yeah. I mean, you know, it's funny
listening to Slehei's story about
Versace and and Zara and I realized
like, yeah, we're from the same city and
we're both kind of kooky, creative type
people, but we're different because I
don't think I could have done something
like that personally or how I would
approach, you know, a project or a
future one. I mean, as it turns out, I'm
more uh timid perhaps. you know, I don't
think I could put myself out there like
that. Like, yeah, fake it till you make
it, but that would be me, you know, just
rehearsing in a private room, not in
front of anyone, and then determining
like, nah, I can't do that. So pretty
much for me I feel like I approach
things I have the luxury right where you
know people it's a it's a good thing and
a bad thing where my name it's not like
a I'm way more humble than that but like
I have to be honest about how people
perceive me and the history of of of
everything I represent here you know no
matter where I go based on the last just
40 years if you
It doesn't put me at a disadvantage, but
I'm I'm kind of locked into a identity
thing with people. And now in my
experiences, I really enjoy I mean, I
love my people and my friends and I I
take care of them, but I really like
meeting new people
um who who yeah, you you have my shadow
cast in front of me. However, they don't
really they didn't meet me yet. And I
get a chance to be Lenny again. And and
that's what gives me joy is that I can
uh maybe surprise people, you know,
based on probably a good re, you know,
pre-entry review, like no, this dude's
really cool. He's he's he's wonderful.
And then still live up to that, like be
a good human being because I think
beyond my identity, which is honestly
everyone it's boring, you know? I mean,
from my point of view, I'm like, "Ah,
damn, you know, this guy." Um, but you
know, I'm sure some of you in this room
may have like seen me out and about on
the street and you know, I'm I'm quite
approachable and I ran into someone
recently on the train and they're like,
"Oh my god, you take the train and
you're by yourself." So yeah, you know,
I I don't get some of the identity stuff
that's happening, you know, and hey, I'm
grateful to go to a LV show and, you
know, get to meet people and Future
still doesn't say hi to me, but you
know, just to say like
um it's weird, you know, for me and I
don't take advantage of it, right? where
I can certainly, you know, I always say
too, like everyone looks above. Not like
I look below, but I've always based my
life on those less fortunate than me,
you know, and kind of remind me of my
childhood. And I don't aspire to kind of
go up the ladder, if you will. Like all
the proverbial
isms, yeah, they're great. they apply to
a majority of the averaging that we all
do with statistics and I we just judge
everything but I don't want to be on
those param I don't want to be within
those parameters I want to be uniquely
me and figure it out as we go as you
said and and just it's the corniest
thing ever but to be the best version
you know of me but to know that I'm also
like a kind of one of none
Right. Like that's who I am. And
>> can I add to that?
>> Pardon?
>> Can I add to it,
>> please? Yes.
>> So being the best version of you, I
remember kind of coming up uh like I
worked at Colehan and I was trying to
get off like wing tips with no socks cuz
that was the vibe back then. And
I think when I whenever we all kind of
get to this point where we become
comfortable in our own skin, maybe we
establish like a uniform or maybe we
just establish, you know, how we want to
present ourselves to the world. And I
think when I realized that the best
version of myself I could be is me is
when I really blossomed as a person as a
human. So just yeah another add-on that
that's probably one of the most
important things you could take away
from here is that like you are the best
you and to like really lean into that.
No, I mean that's what that's the
symbiosis I think with us that despite
you know someone when when this show was
first announced like back to word play
and you know I love like captions and
saying [ __ ] and talking [ __ ] but it's
like generational wealth right that's
what I wrote about us when that thing
and that's kind of how I feel like we're
obviously generational here as life is
every day but there's a value in who we
are as people in the time that we've
doing our thing. And so despite not
knowing you completely, I I sense from
the very beginning we have that similar
kind of a vibe.
>> Cloth recognized cloth.
>> No doubt. And you know, like part of the
whole thing too, it's like um I mean I
just love uh I I take pride in this city
obviously and I love seeing our people,
our citizens, you know, the homies, the
home girls, whoever, everyone them,
they, you know, whoever you want to be
be you. But if you're coming out of this
town and you're making something of
yourself, I'm like super proud of you
because I kind of think it's hard even
though, you know, some of us make it
look easy, but it's it is [ __ ] hard
out there. But
>> well, I think that's part of the point,
right? Like you worked for Kanye West,
>> right? and you know like yes we've moved
through spaces and it's you know gravy
in that way but I imagine there were
some tough days there you know and um
and so I think I'm also sort of
interested in like you know that part of
the creative process right like so you
know what happened when a shoe didn't
land what you know happened when you
know you were at easy and it didn't work
you know like why were you fired like
why you know what I mean like cuz like
the spaces are you know they are
difficult to navigate, right? And I
think as someone as two people who have
navigated them well for, you know, quite
a wild, I'm sort of interested in sort
of like um for for you to take us sort
of through some of that as well, right?
>> Uh
>> so easy day one go.
>> Yeah. So I think it's uh you know at the
time I was a a massive fan of him that
was like my Superman. So I think any
anyone getting the opportunity to work
for their Superman is like a very
special moment. And I remember the first
day when I was like putting my sketches
on in my office. It was like cool to
have my own office. And any designers in
here know it's like really exciting to
like dress your office if you will. So I
was like dressing my office and then
really uncertain on if he would actually
be in the office. And I found out that
he was in the office every day every day
that he was in in town because he was
passionate about what he did. And he
belined it straight to my office. I got
real nervous and he was on his phone and
I was like I was like, "Kanye, thank you
so much for this opportunity. I'm going
to kill it for you." Blah blah blah. And
then he looked up from his phone and he
was like, "Let's change the world." And
then he just left. and and the and and
and and the the feeling that that left
me with a seeing what he's accomplished
in in the time since that conversation,
but just really representative of
someone that had a vision and regardless
of what you feel about him, he is a
visionary and I think there that's rare
in the time that we live in. So to be
respected and then um I would say what I
took from that place is the the power of
disruption. Um, a lot of us spend a lot
of time under these corporate roofs
where we're analyzing trends or
following rules or we can't push the
needle too far and he was someone
that didn't or doesn't give a [ __ ] And
that in itself is like is kind of
valuable when you're surrounded by
people that are afraid to break out of
uh the status quo. So yeah, the p the
power of disruption. Um, and and and
honestly within my collaborative
journey, I've I think I've been rather
disruptive with my work. So there was
probably some strong inspiration there.
>> And how has your design philosophy have
changed over the last sort of 15 years?
you know, like you go through your book,
which you all should get, um, and the
like the styles, the sort of questions
you're asking, the sort of aesthetics
you're interested in, you know, shifts,
right? And I was wondering if you could
sort of, you know, perhaps talk somewhat
about how you approach design and how
that has changed, you know, with these
different interactions, right? with the
interactions with Donatella, with Yay,
with you know ex like all of these
artists that you bring into with
Poutura, with Nina Chanel, with Virgil,
you know, with all these artists that
you I imagine there's, you know, what I
like about the work is that there's this
creative exchange, but it seems that
like that exchange ends up, you know, in
a sort of dem as democratic as possibly
can be in a shoe that then folks can go
out and get, you know, and um and so I
was wondering if you just talk about
sort of your personal sort of design
philosophy having like interacted with
all of these other creatives.
>> Um I think with experience uh
you gain knowledge and then also with
wins it increases confidence. The the
book I just released there's like this
common common theme of fear which I
found really interesting because the
book is about all this success but in
almost every chapter I'm talking about
how I was afraid I was going to get
fired here. I was afraid I didn't fit in
here. I was afraid they weren't going to
like my work here or there. And so I
think with those wins and with that
education, confidence increases
somewhat. I mean, even hitting Lenny or
hitting Sky and being like, "Hey, like
would you know, would Lenny be
interested in working with me?" And then
for that project to happen, I was like,
"Oh [ __ ] I can work with Lenny. I I
should hit up Kenny Sharf, you know."
Um, and so I think you you just learn
what you're capable of through putting
yourself out there and and and asking.
Yeah. And the worst that can happen is
no, you won't get left out of the way.
But
>> what about your sort of personal sort of
design aesthetic, right? Like how do you
appro because each project or each sort
of company has their own house codes and
you like but how are you sort of
navigating?
>> I think I've had to design with two
different hats. When I was like a brand
designer, I had to to use the pin of the
brand that I worked for. So if I worked
at Versace or uh Khan or whatever, my
work had to look like that brand. But
now within this collaborative um
figure that I've become um it's it's
like I guess maybe I would call it like
classic with a twist. It's like finding
that balance between con convention
commercial and then polarizing. What's
going to stop and make people be like
what the [ __ ] is that? But it doesn't
scare me too much. I think some of the
best design work you actually don't like
when you first see it and then you see
it again you're like wait a minute and
then you see it again and you're like I
think I like that. Right? And so I think
uh that's a a great relationship that
some of my audience has with my work
because it evokes a response. And so I'm
almost happy when people don't like my
work because it still means that it's
evoking some kind of emotion out of them
which uh a lot of work does not. So I I
try to be at one end of the spectrum.
>> Yeah.
>> Did I answer?
>> Yeah. Yeah. Okay. Mhm.
>> Um the other thing that's sort of
interesting about sort of the both the
way that you both sort of approach, you
know, art or design is some of it is
often about like you said, right? like I
you know you're not going to like this
and you're not you know so I was
wondering if you can sort of talk about
the ways that like and I also noticed
that like the fear thing that sort of
keep sort of permanent you know
throughout the book or throughout the
job or um like how has that just you
know like for you and Lenny how has that
you know changed just the work right
because like you know we're not there
you know me and the audience are not
there at 3 a.m. you're like, I got to
make a decision on, you know, X, Y, or
Z, but I'm scared, you know, and so it's
really interesting for you to open up
about sort of how fear plays such a role
in a creative process.
>> I I've uh spoken a few times about the
similarities between like the seven
stages of grief. For those that don't
know, say someone passes in your life,
you experience seven emotions, not all
of them being negative necessarily. And
so within creative opportunity, I
experience the the seven stages of
creative opportunity. So often when I
get a project, the first thing I feel is
fear. I feel imposter syndrome. I'm
like, "Oh man, they're finally going to
figure me out." Um, but then the next
emotion is motivation. And then the next
after that is I don't know. I'm making
this up as I go. However, the point is
at the end I've seen that it's gotten to
this destination of a successful
product. So So frankly, like in the
beginning when I start to feel that
fear, it lets me know that I'm still
like invested and I still care. Um, so I
actually think it's a necessary emotion
to go through within a creative uh
journey.
>> How is fear shaped to you?
>> Yeah, fear. Um, I don't have fear. Um,
straight up.
>> I kind of knew that was going to be
>> No, I mean it's just like I don't I
don't think of it that way. Um, I used
to, but it wasn't afraid. It was I guess
afraid to fail, right? That's what it
was. It was a fear of failure and then
that's just lacking confidence I would
imagine. But you know once you get
through you know a couple of marathons
you know you you can you can run that
race right and then you look at your
time you're like okay I can do better
you know I got to get PT you know PB or
whatever all this stuff. So just to say
uh no I I'm not afraid
but but there's a distinct difference
and I think we both could experience
that many artists creatives have that
where it's like okay you do what you do
creatively you're creating something and
there's there's there's no dance there
you're just doing your thing but then
when it it becomes a collaborative
effort with a brand or a partner and now
you want to find out what's best for all
parties concerns. So when you're repping
for a brand, like you said, you're
you're you know, you got the quither,
you know, they're all their arrows and
and you're shooting their [ __ ] I think
the the fear more comes in um how is
this going to work together, you know,
perhaps. But when I'm, you know, I think
design and and for me painting is
completely different than the design
world where I'm now bringing in other
people to check the work or you know uh
collaborate with the work because um you
know when you when I'm painting I don't
need to answer to any higher authority
other than my own conscience. So that's
why sometime collaborations are great
because I can escape from that or in
fact return to that you know it's like
artwork's wonderful to kind of escape
from and just just go get immersed in or
you know submerged in or something but
yeah I mean I don't feel afraid I just
feel like I hope I meet expectation
right and usually how I can avoid that
is not coming in with a kind of oh yo
this is my idea. This is this is dope,
you know, let's do this. I I love to
offer uh choices to the partner or
client and based on really kind of what
they want, you know, it's the
opportunity to make someone happy or
please them in a sense of what we're
trying to do together. So yeah, I mean
whether it's like opening a door or
sharing, you know, having a smoke, we're
going to do that after, right?
>> Okay.
One of the things in the book um that
was also really generous and it actually
reminds me in some ways the way that
Virgil worked um was the way that you
sort of like just show right the
process. This is a process. This is
these are the sketches. This is sort of
the design. This is, you know, and
there's a real um generosity, you know,
in that, right? Because often folks, you
know, would see something, see a
painting, see a shoe, see, you know,
what have you, what an artist creates
and they can't deconstruct it or they
can't sort of, it's almost like there's
this magical thing happening. And I
wonder for you why was it really
important to show not only the sort of
finished product but also show like this
is the actual work that sort of how I
derived at this particular you know shoe
or this particular design.
Um
I think that we were all uh really
fortunate to be able to observe uh
Virgil's journey and
there was a lot of importance in
representation and we got a lot of
education from that. But a lot of the
way that I was inspired was simply
getting to Oh, I thought Scott was
asking a question. Um sorry, he had his
hand up. Um but it was more, you know,
just getting to observe um how he was
moving through the world. You know, just
something as simple as him like flying
business class, arriving at a city in
Europe, having an old white guy in a
suit like pick him up with his name on a
piece of paper and then like getting
into like a nice car, which sounds like
shallow, but prior to that, it felt like
that image was only like white men in
business suits, right? So like even just
to simply see that as like a reality. um
was was pretty crazy. And then
um it probably indirectly influenced me
within my time at Versace and to be be
myself like I was, you know, standing
next to the CEO. He's wearing a
three-piece suit, Donatella's in a gown,
and I'm like in Obama pants and I was
like and I belong there just as much as
everyone else. So um yeah, just the
value in observing how he moved I think
influenced me and uh understanding that
I can't the best me I can be is myself
and um and then I guess that indirectly
influences the work
>> and then the the piece because we all
had very different experiences with
Virgil. I from Chicago but I um curated
his show here um and which happened to
be his last show and so knew him through
that sort of last you know sort of part
of his life and you have both of
collaborated with him in different ways
um and it like that piece of like him
always sort of he called them the keys
always just sort of like giving you know
people the keys you know it's like in
this book you see that time and time
again and I was wondering if that was
something that um you're even conscious
of that you were doing like you know in
that way of like I'm going to you know
show folks like how I made it in a way
you know
>> I think at least in footware design I
don't know how it works for you but in
footwware design it's such an obscure
job and for like a lot of uh professions
there's like a you know plumbing for
dummies or like taxes for dummies
there's there really isn't one for
footwear and then it's such a kind of
like definitionless especially within
like industrial design gig I think it's
important to pull back the curtain
um and really just show people what I'm
working on without giving away too much
of the like secret sauce, you know? Um
when I first moved to LA, I was like
spending a lot of time in recording
studios and I was like fascinated by all
the the spinning buttons, which I'm sure
any music people in here are like, "Oh,
that's just the like equalizer." But for
me, that was really that was really
interesting. So, just being aware that
like the things I see on a daily basis,
we were just talking about the rooms
that we find ourselves in. Um that is
not normal to most. So, I try to keep
that in mind and pull it back to
>> Yeah. I mean, I'm getting to know a lot
as well cuz I mean, I know uh I didn't
know you curated the uh virtual show,
Antoine.
>> You didn't know that you did not know
that?
>> Yes.
>> I did.
>> Yeah. Um but no I mean you know you
speaking about being a disruptor and you
know that's what you were getting from
from from Yay and you know it's that
whole tree apparently right because you
know Verge I also thought was somewhat
of that type figure as well. I mean, I
never saw myself as a disruptor, but I
do want to um not not put people on, but
you know, bring other people into the
group. And I think that's something
Verge was really very good at as far as
the kind of people you would expect to
see in the room prior to someone like
Verge, maybe they weren't present. But
uh you know all my path here my timeline
I've also tried to bring folks in who uh
for all the right reasons you know oh
this individual is really good on uh you
know whatever digital tech I mean the
guy's super fluent in Adobe and and all
of the you know you want a PDF this is
your person or whatever the case may be
in all kind of facets photography
writing is you know anything dance music
and but I do it in a more uh sort of a
you know not so overt way you know it's
a bit more like um
creating not spies but I don't know you
know you get people in the industry that
you know are your allies and another
thing that's weird is today you know
clients of mine they're not half my age
but you know they're 40s something
supporters you know, people who are
supporting me now. It's it's pretty
awesome that I'm still connected to not
just the present, you know, but this new
generation and you obviously as well,
Slee, being a part of that. And, you
know, that's what I I thought was
beautiful about Ves, you know, jumping
on me and and giving me a lot of
attention at a moment there and what
probably being born
like something like 1980, you know what
I mean? It's it's just great to see the
next gen arriving and now we have you
know the the subsequent one arriving as
well you know all the 20some people who
are interning you know coming out of
school working in these brands uh
wanting to work in brands perhaps
inspired by you perhaps have heard of me
uh went to the Verge show knowing full
well Antoine you did curate you see what
I'm saying like people
and you Well, just just to touch back,
we we were having a chat about yinking,
grabbing, so and I was talking about
stealing paint and when I saw this guys,
>> same thing.
>> This is coming out with me. And
>> but I would have had a thing, you know,
I would have been in a hardware store
and I would have asked the guy, "Hey, do
you have a um
>> yeah, you have like a monkey wrench?"
And then I would just
My god.
Just saying you you know
>> not a disruptor. Not a disruptor at all.
>> No. I started stealing candy from New
York City um news stand the old I felt
sorry for the old Indian guy Mr. Singh
or whoever. I was like
ripping him off. But yeah.
Oh not for nothing. Let me say in the
world of fashion right also when I was
like I was probably like 14. My mom
said, "Hey, baby, I got this jacket for
you." I was like, "Oh, thanks." And it
was uh it was my Levi jacket, which I
was very proud of that jacket.
And she she'd sewed some compartments on
the bottom that completely fit spray
cans. You could fit sprite, you know,
like I think it's a half a dozen cans.
So, my mom was, God rest her soul, she
was, she's from Chicago. My mom actually
also uh she uh was was sort of aided and
embedded in in in my in my career
>> sort of
>> sort of yeah no cameras at that time and
yeah
>> I'm going to ask one more question and
it sort of is a and then we'll take some
questions from the audience um sort of
what do you guys think in this moment
you know like is going to be sort of the
future of of sort of
or or maybe it's a to ask that question
in a different way. Sort of the
experiences that you've both had, you
know, moving through the world, you
know, in the ways that you have, um, and
we're sort of in such a particular
moment right now to say the least. um
that you know the creatives and the sort
of artists that I sort of talk to on a
daily basis are all sort of negotiating
right this current moment and I wonder
>> sort of for you what does that sort of
mean for the future of your creativity
or in general or the type of landscape
right because you know with Virgil and
you know others like a lot of sort of
what happened over the last 15 years um
was possible
because of the way that folks have
linked arms and sort of um you know sort
of pushed brands, pushed, you know, sort
of institutions, pushed um others,
right? And so I wonder sort of how you
guys are feeling this particular moment,
but also sort of how do you see the
landscape developing out of this?
>> Um I always find it hard to predict, but
I really think it's important. I think
evolution is important. I think uh using
the tools that we've been given is
important. So, um I'm a user of AI
this
um and I've had a lot of conversations
with creatives recently where they're
afraid that it's like replacing creative
potential or potentially even replacing
people, but I think it's a tool that
helps expand bandwidth. Um even as like
a footware designer, if anyone's
familiar with the the job, we often use
Illustrator. We're using like line work.
It's somewhat of an archaic uh practice,
but now I have some designers and we're
going over concepts and what he's
showing me look like real shoes. And
that's what the use of AI and just
thinking about how much time that that
saves. Um it's just really
representative of how important it is to
use the tools that we've been given.
I've worked with some designers that
when like Photoshop and Illustrator came
out, they refused to make that
transition and they only hand sketch and
because of that they move at a much
slower rate. um and eventually uh might
become obsolete. So, I don't know if I
can necessarily predict what's next, but
I think evolving with the times is
extremely important or you might be uh
left behind.
>> Yeah, I'm not on the prediction market
thing either. Um
>> are you pro AAI?
>> Am I pro-AI? Um yeah, whatever. I'm not
concerned about it. I mean, it's not
going to
it's it's not going to affect me. me. I
mean, yeah, my opinions are when I
started seeing celebrities doing
commercials, I'm like, "Oh, wow. That
shit's whack." But
at the, man, at the same time, you're
right, it's like an accelerant, but at
the at the same time, it's it's it's a
due to the, you know, mathematical, you
know, all of itness, it's it's a super
hyper accelerant, right? And and I think
it's in the stage it's at right now,
it's a little bit dangerous. So, I'm
keeping my eye on it. I mean, I know
everyone's like, you know, I was just
thinking like, okay, not the workable AI
that can create stuff for you. I mean,
some years ago, what was the platform?
Um,
it was still two-dimensional [ __ ] I I I
guess they can flip video clips, but
what was the name of it? It was anyway
it was just some AI derivative kind of
like you know Adobe on steroids like hey
I want uh I want a astronaut suit but I
want it to look like military and you
know you could just throw it some
prompts and it would create something
immediately. I thought that was really
cool but I I I was jelly because I was
like damn man I've spent hours trying to
create that. So, I I get the accelerance
of it all, but I I think there's a back
end to it that that could be negative,
and I'm just waiting. I'm waiting to
see. But I think chat, hey, chat, what's
this? I think that's straight up
laziness because what happened with
uh let me ask Google, you know, I still
I still like G
>> just on the strength of
>> But when Google came out, there was
people that were probably like, why
aren't you using an encyclopedia?
>> No,
but no, no, no, no. True. But but by
then I mean did they know what a [ __ ]
encyclopedia was? Right. Okay. So but
just to say I mean
some of us most of us still come from a
world that that we did have this sort of
other you know the the sort of dinosaur
era and and I dig it. You know I dig the
analog era like a lot. and and yeah, I
will default to a [ __ ] library,
right? Just for the strength of uh
atmosphere or, you know, uh quiet.
>> So, we're going to rapidly get through
some of these questions.
>> Um because we have just a few more
minutes before um will be signing books
after this. So, grab one and get your
book signed. Um
person input their name, but what is
something small that someone can do to
build their own 15-year creative career?
Uh
>> something small,
>> something small. Don't let no affect you
remotely. Uh like when I got that
Versace job, I'd probably been told like
no 20 times prior to that. And I was
pretty defeated, but
the nos should just like wash over you
because the yeses are on the way.
>> What should someone do?
>> Yeah. Something small someone can do to
build a career.
>> Get to work. I mean work basically.
Yeah. Like do something.
>> Yeah.
>> What's the one rule
of footwear design you take the most joy
in breaking?
>> Um maybe just breaking convention. And I
think that all the brands that we know
and love, they kind of are following the
same model and creating the same
footwear because the stakes are high.
So, there's a lot of money being spent
and they got to make that money back,
right? So, um it's important to me just
to break that that trend somewhat and
have a little bit of fun and be
creative. Was recently at Lenny's studio
and like I was like geeking out over all
his art, but he was like, "Yeah, yeah,
that's cool, but check out this Lego
pyramid I made." And like true story.
And that's what's cool. I just think
that like the fact that he is this like
legendary artist, but he's still excited
about making Lego pyramids shows like a
a passion for creativity.
>> Where do you where do you go to
rejuvenate your creativity? Um where do
you go to recharge? Um burnout is a
thing.
>> They're asking for some tips on sort of
>> I mean where do I go? uh
my backyard, smoke a joint. Um no, I
don't know. I mean, I think you don't
need to, you know, you don't need a
quiet walk and uh you know, you know, my
feet on the sand. I mean, it's a lot of
like theatrical stuff out there. just do
what makes you feel, you know, I mean go
to that space I guess your comfort zone
or but I mean you said motivation ley,
you know, one of those uh you know
things that you seven elements of
whatever
>> creative. Yeah.
>> Yeah. Um and motivation is really a huge
factor in our lives and I I'm really
good at like you I don't fake it till I
make it but I I tell I know how to fake
motivation to myself. So I internally
can self-motivate. I think that's very
helpful.
>> Yeah. Also maybe like mindless activity.
Uh someone said to me the other day,
when was the last time you were in a
room by yourself with no stimulus at
all? Now your phone, nothing. You were
just alone with your mind and your
thoughts. And I honestly didn't have an
answer because at this point in our
lives, we have so much entertainment.
There's always something going on. So,
taking advantage of a mindless activity
and actually spending some time with
yourself, which is like rare because
you're spending time with yourself for
like 30 seconds and then you're checking
your phone or you're scrolling or
whatever. So,
>> do it on plane rides
>> that. Yeah. Well, I don't Yeah, but
>> I mean, you know, you like raw dog it,
right? You're like, "No, no, none of
this." Cuz sometimes, not for nothing, I
mean, you know, none of it's acceptable,
right? Whatever they're offering, I'm
like, "Ah, this is whack." Even the even
the map it's like
>> so
just just kill the whole thing, right?
Shut it down.
>> And another thing when I'm on the train.
Yeah, I'm on the train. I'm not on my
phone, yo. I'm just sitting there
because I mean, come on. This is This is
still New York, let's be honest. So, I'm
just there and you know, new technology,
mapping, whatever. But yo, I'm just
observing everyone in that [ __ ] car
and I am so ready to break the [ __ ] out
if [ __ ] goes down. So just to say
get off your device in the train. I mean
I know you got to get somewhere but just
hold back. Like I wish people could just
hold back and I watch them and they
can't they can't resist just the guy had
it. He's He's looking. Okay, check
something. Whatever. Maybe Koshi. And
then he he he
put it back down and I was like, I'm
going to count to 20. This guy's going
to grab his phone again. I got to seven.
He was already So,
>> put the [ __ ] down a little. A little
bit. Little bit.
>> This was unrelated, but
>> shut up.
>> Uh Dave Chappelle, whenever he has
shows, he has these little pouches that
you put your phones in.
>> Yeah, that's amazing. And it's obviously
you can't take photos or whatever, but
it actually significantly changes just
the socializing experience because you
know if you're talking with someone, if
there's a drop in the conversation, you
might grab your phone. If you're talking
with someone, you want to show them
about like show them a trip you just
took, you might grab your phone. So
existing in a social space with no phone
at all, not not only does it bring us
back to like a golden era where we can
enjoy ourselves without being like being
documented, but it also forces you to
like actually look into someone's eyes
and like, you know, be present.
>> Yes. Yes. Yeah.
>> Okay. Somebody wrote a paragraph about
asking for basically style advice. Um
um they want to know um when you get up
in the morning or afternoon um what
piece do you reach for first? Pants,
shoes,
>> chain. They want to know. Uh, I don't
know what I reached for at first, but
recent I was just in Japan with a buddy
and uh he was like, "Man, Slay, I love
your style. You don't give a fuck." And
I was like I was like I was like, "I
don't know if this is positive or
negative." But what but what I I think
he was trying to say is that like when
I'm at fashion week and stuff like I'm
essentially just dressed like myself.
I'm not necessarily wearing any, you
know, uniform or peacocking or anything
like that. So, why did I bring that up?
I just Yeah, I think it's just important
to kind of like lean into you. Um, and
so I don't necessarily grab anything
first, but it's more about just like a
feeling of whatever makes you feel good.
And that almost brings me to like where
the sneaker like community finds itself.
Like these days, kids just look for
sneakers that make themselves like cool
or rare or it was expensive. And when I
was coming up, it was simply about what
made you feel good and what made you the
individual that you were. So, um, I try
to strive for that. I just I'm an
individual.
>> Shoes.
>> Oh, shoe. Yeah, I guess. Yeah, footwear.
Footwear because it's all from, you
know, it's like from the bottom up,
right? I mean, uh, probably footwear.
But Bruce Lee's quote about style always
stuck with me. Uh, you know, it's like,
oh, what style, you know, what style do
you have? And, you know, so I apparently
his style was no style. And I and I
thought like, yeah, that's kind of
amazing. And just to say anyone in the
graffiti slash street art uh lore
historic knows that we appropriated that
word style out of the fashion or like
Hollywood or whatever was deemed
stylish.
>> And that's a huge word in our community.
And so I've always felt it's a kind of a
double, you know, it's a bit of a uh,
you know, it's like a kind of a joke
because of course style lives, you know,
at the Met Gala and blah blah blah, but
it also embodies itself on the street as
people who would never have access or
even know about the Met
>> could be the most stylish individuals in
their neighborhoods or, you know,
wherever they they may live. So style is
a big thing even though I don't really
run to it, you know? I'm just Yeah, I'm
accepting now like it's the not the
Steve Jobs effect, but yeah, you just
get into something you're quite
comfortable with and you're like, "Yeah,
[ __ ] it." Like I'm not trying to have
the next latest whatever because when I
look at my inventory, I probably have
more than 400 jackets.
And uh that's that's that's that's
horrible, you know.
>> Um
>> that's so horrible.
>> I'm going to ask one more.
>> I think my dad had two.
>> I'm gonna ask one more question um for
the both of you. I'm going to ask two
more questions. Okay, one more. Um
because I think it's important and then
we'll end on the next question. Um how
do you know when it's time to move on
from a brand, a company, a project?
when they stab you in the back.
>> So
>> they they will do it.
>> Yes, they will. Um so I think the point
of a collaboration is to reach a
destination that both parties couldn't
have reached on their own. So I think
that once either that destination has
been met or maybe the destin you see the
potential of reaching that destination
is not possible that might be a sign
that it's time to go.
>> And lastly for the both of you um what's
something you haven't designed, haven't
painted, haven't made yet um that you
would take on as a new challenge?
>> I got this. Go ahead.
>> Okay. Uh, for me, furniture, um, the
current relationship that my audience
has with my work is for the most part
exists on a daily basis, but I think
when people love your work so much, they
decide to keep it in their home. It's a
way more intimate um, product
relationship. So, and then I'm an
industrial design, industrial designer
at heart, so making things that are
functional and make our lives easier um,
is a high priority of mine.
That seems like a good um next next
chapter or you know subject matter for
you doing furniture. I can totally see
that uh in a design you know graphics um
more design than than painting. I would
love to uh you know I don't know get
involved with uh future space travel in
the next 25 years if you will and get
some designs moving into space. So maybe
could figure out in the next five years
how do I connect with NASA in in some
way. No disrespect to Heron or Tom
Sachs, but just trying to say
uh as a kid, you know, and we're having
this revival now with Artemis program
and you know, plans of going to Mars and
[ __ ] but just to say or the moon, of
course, but uh I'm I'm a child of the
60s, right? I mean, I grew up uh 1969, I
would have been 13, 14, man. It maybe uh
just to say all of that moment is it's
huge for me. And even as a child before
I ever wrote my name on the wall, I was
like, "Oh man, I would love to because I
I love graphics as a kid and and and
logos and [ __ ] and and NASA's was always
up there with, you know, GE and and
Zenith and IBM and whatever." I kind of
remember Coca-Cola, no doubt. But just
to say, I'd love to do some graphics uh
for future space travel. Not X, not
that, but
>> the legit, you know, the other guy.
Yeah,
>> I just wanted to thank both of them for
the conversation tonight. Um, and
there's one more thing you want them to
do.
>> Uh, oh yeah, take out your phones and
follow. Be a sponge. I'm serious.
Please. B E A S P U N G E. I'm going to
look.
>> You want to see this?
>> And then join us.
>> Wait, can we can we do the wave one more
time, too? Wait, what' you say about the
Knicks?
>> Check the score.
>> Oh, you guys check the Knicks score.
>> 72 to 22.
>> Oh, fire.
>> No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.
Whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa. That's like 40,
50 points. What?
>> Real.
>> What?
>> Oh, wow.
>> Go New York. Sorry.
>> Oh, wow. All right, real real quick. Uh,
just wait. Let me get it on video. The
wave start. Let me get Let me get Lenny
in there. The wave starting now, please.
>> Thank you very much.
>> Thank you so much.
>> Thank you so much to Celey, Antoine, and
Fura for sharing so generously with all
of us. I wanted to shout out a few
people behind the scenes. Thank you to
Sarah and Sheile at iconoclast,
Chay, Echigosian, Kivian, Josh, Chris,
Chris, and Farardat who are documenting
um tonight's program so that you can see
it later on. uh Keith in our sound
booth, Johnny for providing ASL, and
most of all, all of you for being here
tonight and making this evening so