Assembly and First Look at the SUNLU AMS Lite Heater!

Do you have an A1 or an A1 Mini with an AMS Lite and wish that this was enclosed? This is the video for you. Sunloo just sent me over their brand new heated enclosure for the Bamboo Lab AMS light and I'm pumped to give it a try. My name is Jim and this is the Edge Tech. If there was one thing about the AMS Lite that I wish was better, it would be the fact that it's not enclosed like the other AMS's that we have. I understand that it's not really supposed to be because this is an open frame printer, but what if it could be? That would actually keep the moisture in my studio here out of the filament and potentially even dry the filament while I'm printing on this machine because everybody knows that good dry filament, no matter what machine it comes out of, is actually better. And that's where the Sunloo AMS Light Heater comes in. It offers a brand new way to use the AMS Light and dry your filament at the same time, too. We're going to check that out in just a second. We're even going to assemble it. But first, I need to disconnect this, which is actually super easy. Just push down on the PTFE couplers, pull your tubes, your PTFE tubing out, and unplug it from the back of the machine. Now, we're good to go. I can set the printer back over here on the shelf, and we're going to check out what's in the box. So, let's pop this box open and see what's inside. A bunch of foam. Pop this open. So, I just got it unboxed and this is what it looks like. I was wondering how big it was going to be. I've seen the pictures and I think we probably all have and I was just really curious about the size of this thing. I mean, yes, it is a bit bigger in total size. Once this is on here and it sets in there, it's not not too bad of a size. I think it's going to fit on my shelves. Okay. And I guess that's something you'll have to look into before you check it out. So, you just grab the handle and it folds down just like that to get inside of it, which is super easy. In the box, you're going to find a power cord that looks something like this. The snap cover, the little uh grommet for, I believe, the wire that comes out of the back for your AMS light, an Allen wrench, and the screws to connect everything back in. I believe that they're actually including four 1200 mm PTFE tubes as well, which is really cool because that will actually extend how far you can have this from your printer. And I think that's kind of an important thing. Now, we're going to assemble this dryer in 1 second. We're going to get the MS light put in. But first, we need to talk about today's sponsor, PCB Way. If you're looking to finish any projects out there that you have going, look to PCB Way to give you help. With an awesome, easy to use website, you can dive into things like 3D printing, CNC, machining, sheet metal work, metal 3D printing. Like, there's just so much that PCB way does along with their custom PCBs that you definitely want to check it out for the project you have coming up. All you have to do is jump on, you choose what you want to do. In this case, let's say we're going to do some metal 3D printing. You drop your model into PCB on their website. You tell it what type of material you want. In this case, we're going to do some metal 3D printing. Why not? And then all you have to do is hit submit. It'll give you an estimate of how much it's going to cost. And then they do everything else for you. It is super easy to use. And the shipping is actually really fast, too. So, check out their site. If you have any questions, they're there to answer them for you and walk you through that process. Check out the link in the description below to save yourself some money. Thanks again to PCBa for sponsoring this video. Now, let's get back to it. So, we're going to start by opening the sides of the doors. And like I showed you earlier, basically, you just pull this down and pop them open. Next, we got to get the top cover off. I guess that's how you do it. Just give it a pull up. Be careful not to break your tabs. That was a little bit uh harder than I thought it was going to be, but it will come off. The next thing you want to do is remove the four screws that hold your AMS light to this stand. There should be one, two, and three, and four. There's four total screws. And you just grab your Allen wrench or a T- handle. I love to use T- handles. And just remove all four of those screws. Pull the AMS off the stand like that. And then set your AMS stand aside. Take your cable from the AMS and push it out the hole that's in the back of the heater. This is the back of the heater. There's a hole right down here. And we're going to take our AMS cable carefully. Just like that. And then you can grab a hold of it and give it a little tug. The next thing we want to do is take our AMS carefully uh watch that cable and push it down into place. The cable should be out of the way. And it should sit down in place. Now, there is a place for that cable to lay. So, it probably has to be in there. Yep. Just like that. Once it's down in place like this, we're going to take four of the little screws that came with the set, the little silver screws, and my tea handle. We're going to put those four screws in where it connected to the old base. One, two on this side. and the two on the back that are the same as well. And then we're going to move to the next step. So, let's get this screwed in quick. Now, we're going to set this aside just for a second and come back to it. We're going to grab the top cover. That's what this is right here. There are four screws, one two three, four, that we need to remove. And we're going to start mounting the top of our AMS into the top cover here. So, that'll leave you with these two pieces here that come down off the top cover. And it is worth noting that these four screws are smaller than the other screws that come in the kit. So you'll need to keep those aside cuz those need to go back into the top cover like we took them off. Now we go back to our AMS light. And there are actually four screws that we need to remove from the top cover of this too. And it's just like the bottom. There's one here, there's one here, and there's one on the back and one on the back. So there's one, two, three, four that we need to remove to get this top section off of our AMS light. And we're going to do that now. So, now that we got that loose, I'm going to turn this around. So, this is the front of the machine here. And this is the longer of the two brackets that came out of our cover. I'm going to go ahead and lift this up and kind of slide it aside. And then this actually goes down where the wires are facing down. They go down this way. Okay. So, it'll go on like this, but it just kind of uh snaps into place on the There we go. So once you get it in place, again, it's kind of really awkward to show you this, but the two screw holes will line up and it will just kind of sit on top of where you removed your AMS feeding unit from. You can take your AMS feeding unit and slide it on carefully and line it up into the top little notches. Now, it is numbered on the uh Sunloo AMS heater. So, there's a little four here. So, you want to match your four feeding unit to the four piece. That's how you know you're going to put it on, right? And that part is actually done. For this next part, I'm going to kind of turn it towards you real quick, and we're going to do the same thing. I'm going to lean this back a little bit, and this is going to go on the same way. So, these little grooves here, uh, will tell you where the feeding unit sits. This is where the filament's going to come in in the end, but it's going to sit on there like that. Just make sure your screws are lined up when you're putting it on because you want to be able to screw it in. And then the feeding unit should, if you get it all together correctly, the feeding unit should just sit down right into uh the the new top piece. And I don't have it together correctly. This part's a little bit tricky. They say to lean it a little and then put this in like that and then kind of snap it together. So, we should be good. Everything is on. The feeding unit's on. Everything seems to be um correct here. I'm just going to make sure. And then once we get that far, we need to put our screws back into the side. So once you make sure everything's lined up, it looks good. It's all sitting on here nicely. There's 1, two, three, four screws we need to put back. Those are the ones you took out a little bit ago. And we're going to put them back into the top. So they'll go into the AMS light into the new bracket. Now, I got the top two screws in. And I almost forgot to tell you about the bottom two screws in each side that hold it all down to the AMS light. So, don't forget about those. I used four of the brand new screws for those. One, two, three, four on the back. I'm going to spin this thing around. And we have two little cables. And these two little cables just need to get plugged in to the bottom. So, I got the two cables plugged in that'll power the uh motors up here. This is the top cover here. This is the front where it says Sunloo. This is the front where there's the screen. So, this is going to set back down over the top just like that. And it snaps into place um all the way around. And you just want to be careful. You don't want to break it obviously, just like we didn't want to break it when we got it off. Pop them in like that. You hear hopefully you heard that snap. And that means it's all popped in. Your feeding unit sits through the top just like this. So there's four little screws. We mentioned the screws difference earlier for the top cover. So what you want to do is put all four screws back in that top cover. And that's going to hold this top assembly to the cover. and keep everything held down. Once we get all four of these screws back in, we can move to the next step. All right, the top cover's on, everything's screwed into place, everything's snapped into place, and we're good. We have two steps left, and they're super easy. This right here is the wire cover, and it needs to cover these wires up inside of the AMS unit. It only should go on one way cuz one side's bigger than the other side. I found it easier to put the bottom in first and then snap the top in. Just make sure you have no wires sticking out of either side because you don't want any pinched wires. We're good. So, the last step is just simply to install the uh rubber grommet it comes with. And this just seals the power cable in so less moisture can get in and out of that hole. Kind of tricky to do this. Um but you just flip it up like this. And this is where the power cable comes out of. You got to be careful. So, you spread it in so the the uh cut is up facing up. And you get your cable through there like this. And then this just simply pushes in. And it should uh snap into the little hole. There you go. It's in. It's uh nice and rubbery. You got a nice little uh rubber area there to keep that cable in. That's it. I mean, that's that's how this thing installs. I think if I wasn't filming, this might have taken like five or six minutes, maybe seven. It wasn't very bad. That rubber piece right there was probably the hardest part. Now we can take a quick look at everything. This is the front. I'm really glad I didn't take this wrap off cuz I was setting it on top of there to get that grommet in. But we can do that now. Just like that. I need to get something like a little razor blade or something and get some of this tape off. I was peeling fast and some of those little tape strands stayed on the front, but that's not a big deal. Uh that's the top of the feeding unit. And this is the back of the unit where the cable comes out. Also, this is where it plugs in with your power. And this is where you turn it on and off. Before I load the filament, I think this is where I'm going to plug everything back in. We're going to do the two closest one like you would with a regular AMS light. We're just going to pop these PTFE tubes back in like this. And the two farthest ones like that. This is definitely where those new 1200 mm uh tubes would come in handy to have all four so you can slide this a little farther. And then of course your back would plug into the back of the the printer. So there you go. That that's everything installed right there. Um, again, I think it would be cool to have a little bit longer tubes here. That way, I can slide it. And they're they're mitigating that with the the four 1200 millimeter PTFE tubes that they're sending with the new ones or anything that's pre-ordered. But in this case, you can fold it down like that. You can still get to it. Once you're ready to load the filament, basically, open up the machine. Uh, take your filament like you normally would, and you're going to put it right onto the roll. Make sure you're holding your end so it doesn't go flying. Once it's on the roll, just load it up like you normally would. Straight up into the top. Press your button like normal. And there you go. As you can see, it loaded up and fed the filament just like you were using the AMS light, but now you're enclosed. In the back, where I showed you before, there's a plug and a power button. I got those on. And then in the front of the machine, there is a power button right here. You have to press that button for everything to start turning on. So once the screen is on in the front, you can choose the type of filament you have. Uh you can choose the temperature. There's a range you can use and also how long you want to dry the filament for. You can dry while you're printing actively, which is really cool. Let me see if I can get the mic down here. Hopefully you could hear that. Not too loud. And the machine is off and drying. We can load the filament just like normal and start printing. So, I would say overall I actually do like the design of the Sunloo dryer. Uh, it's easy to use. The form factor is pretty good. Um, I am looking forward to getting the replacement tubes from them. Remember, the new ones are coming with four replacement tubes, so you can get this a little bit further away, which will be very nice. I like the fact that you can just pop the doors open and load your filament like normal and then close them when you're done. And the other nice thing is I can dry four filaments at once and it doesn't matter what type of filament you're drawing in here. Now, what you can't do is four individual drying sections. It doesn't do that. It's all one. So, if you're choosing PLA, it'll use those settings for everything you're doing. The other cool thing is you could always dry filament in here and not use it in the printer at the time. So, you could load other filaments in here and just let them sit and dry. There's nothing saying you can't do that. The assembly was very easy and the screen in the front is really easy to use as well. Just but don't forget that little power button on the front for everything to turn on because if you don't press that, you'll probably wonder why the machine's not running. If you have an AMS light, this is definitely something to consider. And really, this takes it to another level with that drying ability. Now, let's talk a little bit about the price. As of today, you can get this for $119. So that's $119 and that's actually a pretty good price for an aftermarket upgrade that fully encloses the AMS light and gives you that heating and drying abilities. So if you want to grab yours, jump in the link in the description below and check it out. At least uh take a look at it and see what you think. If you like the video, please give me that big thumbs up. It really helps the algorithm. If you haven't subscribed yet to the channel, I invite you to please do that now for more 3D printing uh CNC and laser videos coming up. CNC and laser videos are coming. Also, YouTube thinks this one here is what you guys should watch next. So, definitely jump on that video, too. And we'll see you in the next one.