Video summary
The video documents the diagnostic process and repair of persistent humming and grinding noises in a 2007 Toyota 4Runner, which the owner drove over 1,200 miles from Houston to Chicago. Initially suspecting worn tires due to uneven tread wear patterns, the mechanic discovered that tire replacement did not resolve the issue. After addressing front wheel bearing play and pulley problems, attention shifted to the rear differential assembly. Using a stethoscope while the vehicle was raised and driven in neutral, the owner isolated the noise sources, noting distinct differences between the humming sound heard from outside versus the grinding sounds detected when listening directly to the differential carrier and pinion shaft bearings.
Upon disassembly, the mechanic found that all four rear axle bearings were defective, exhibiting significant pitting, lines of wear, and moisture leakage through the seals. The investigation revealed that the noise was not isolated to a single component but rather a combination of failing bearings on both sides of the differential carrier and the pinion shaft. The owner decided against rebuilding the entire differential gear set to save costs and time, opting instead to replace only the bearings and races. This involved custom fabricating tools to press out stubborn races from inside the housing after cutting open the brake line clamp to avoid bleeding the brakes, a technique recommended for future reference.
After installing high-quality Timken and Coyo bearings along with new seals and adjusting the preload and lash, the mechanic completed the repair by also replacing rotors, pads, and other worn components like the timing belt kit. A final test drive confirmed that the vehicle was now virtually silent, proving that the noise originated entirely from the rear axle bearings rather than the ring and pinion gears. The video concludes with a lesson on the importance of thorough diagnostics before major repairs and highlights the significant cost savings achieved by performing the complex work personally, estimating total project costs around $3,000 including parts and custom fabrication.
Read the full video transcript
[Applause]
hey guys welcome to another well this
time it's going to be a diagnosis video
how to diagnose
your car noises in my case
07 Toyota 4Runner rear wheel
drive I know it's a two runner some of
you may know that I actually drove this
car from
Texas Houston from Houston all the way
back to Chicago area because it has no
rust but for the
1200 and something miles I had a loud
kind of a humming noise sounded like
possibly bad tires which they were uh
possibly rear bearings or a possible
rear diff bearing or
even uh pinion or ring gear so let's the
easiest fix would be tires you know I
sure was hoping it was the tires but
because when I looked at them while
still you know at Houston buying the car
or truck you can see that the threads
are if you look at
[Music]
them well let's I guess from top view in
this case you can see that this thread
for example is lower this one's higher
lower higher it's these it's got these
scales going on and you can also see
that like for example this part
is kind of more black this is more dirty
more black dirty so this means that this
is contacting the road this is not you
know it's just you can kind of see that
it continues and I was told that these
tires were put on for some reason by the
previous owner
in the
rear why I don't know I I never will I
maybe was lied to who
knows and now I suspect that well I
think the rear diff is has to be
replaced well bearings hopefully just
bearings at this point not the our uh
gears hey uh previous owner if you're
watching this I'm not mad it's okay I
forgive you so as you can see I did repl
tires but blue paint is still coming off
these are brand spanking new all four
all the
same and it wasn't the tires M I
actually had
some play in the front wheels too I did
replace
bearings uh by coyo bearings by coyo and
it wasn't the noise I had noise in the
front but that was an easy
fix it was a combination of the bearings
and the this either pulley check this
out I actually diagnosed this the same
exact way we're going to diagnose the
rear diff and the rear bearings cuz
there is no play in them and even if
there is play in some bearings hubs
whatever you got they won't necessarily
make noise with play in them all right
so using
this stetoscope this
tool this doctor
tool or if you don't have that this is
cheap it's like 10 bucks or this okay
with a screwdriver anything that's long
and you can put it to the bearing or
whatever and your ear and it's best if
it's a if it's metal through and through
like this guy here obviously you're
going to raise if you got all-wheel
drive four-wheel drive ra raise the
whole
vehicle if you have only rear wheel
drive or front wheel drive raise that
part of the vehicle obviously we're
going to pop the
door we're going to start the
vehicle going to put it in
Drive wheels are are spinning
now but you can
see or not I don't know as soon as I
come close to the throttle
you hear that
noise I'm trying to accelerate and the
RPMs are going down so I can really spin
them any faster so you can
see I mean you
can still
diagnose but it's better if they spin
faster and throw it throw it back in
neutral and just shut it off I'm going
to go under the hood now this is only
for the 07 okay 08 maybe 07 and down 08
and up or yeah Wai up have your the V
VSC button you can turn those uh your
traction control off on this guy you
pull
the this this guy here let's try this
[Music]
again all right check this out we got
some vssc track light on and the
traction
control and I can hear the noise from
here all kinds of Lights man that is
loud can you hear
that could that be the bearing
[Music]
all right I thought I was going to put a
pipe against the
seat uh against the seat and I keep keep
it uh you know RPMs up but I don't have
to it's for some reason staying at 40
mph which is plenty when I get
underneath no this is not dangerous the
car is not going to fly off the lift
[Music]
quiet that's
quiet this one is a little bit
noisy but not much
all right so this is a little bit little
confusing okay let me explain listen
[Music]
I don't know if you can hear the
difference I had to uh go back inside
and use that pipe
and raise the RPMs a little bit cuz it
was actually slowing down but that's how
that's by the way how you turn off your
traction control just by pulling that
plug from the uh master on their
Reservoir
thing anyways let's let's talk about
okay this is a kind of a weird situation
and confusing let's just take one side
for example okay so it looked like it
well it sounded like the noise was
coming from the bearings okay standing
outside but using the stereoscope and
listening right here where the bearing
is
obviously this is quiet it gets louder
and
louder every 2 3 in or so as you get
closer
to the the
carrier uh right here and you have your
ring gear right here
spinning this way and you have a bearing
here and you got a bearing here okay
there's total of four bearings in this
rear differential there's sometimes five
you know or whatever but this one is
four there's one one here one here and
there's two more on the pinion gear on
the pinion
shaft uh where where the ring gear or
the pinion gear
is and it's there's a lot of noise right
over here from both evenly from both but
if you just kind of put your head over
here it's a different kind of sound this
makes kind of
a kind of grindy sound
like you know and from the outside when
you're standing by the wheel on the
outside it makes more of a humming noise
like you know so it's a versus
a and there's
more right on
the right on the
bearing which
is right in here there's another bearing
there's a whole lot of noise here and
there's another bearing right here
almost no noise
here obviously different noises transfer
through metal easily but out of the out
of all the the carrier
case right over here it's the least
noisy okay most of it it's right right
here this is most of the noise and then
right at the shaft
uh flange right there now the left side
bearing is a tiny bit more noisy than
the right side but still
I I don't know um I'm going to take a
Gamble and and say that it is
the the rear differential which is a
bummer I already ordered parts
coyo uh Rock AO actually has a set a
rebuilt kit which includes bolts
gasket um four bearings uh you know
races obviously um a Crush Washer
some something else I forget anyways and
it's not really all that difficult to
remove um the the Dropout uh
differential on at least on this year uh
what you got to do is remove the drive
shaft remove the what I'm going to do
and I hope it's going to work I'm going
to remove this clamp on the brake line
here on top cuz this is steel and this
part is
rubber and remove the caliper Brack with
the bracket all
together leave the the
brakes you know right in this
vicinity uh also got to remove the
parking brake line which is just behind
there um and
then these four nuts here here I think
look like 17s then you should be able to
slide
the axles out a little bit four maybe 5
in just to clear the case probably 4 in
is enough and they can just rest you
know still inside all the axle can rest
on the inside there no need to pull them
out all together and then this thing
will uh well there's obviously there's
bolts on the other side there drain the
oil and this will slide out and then you
got to remove all the bearings the races
the
seal you know and then drive in new
bearings put in a new seal adjust
preload lash easy nothing to do it
should be done in no time hopefully the
Rings are in good
condition cuz then it's going to get
pricey and Land Cruiser different
Tacomas whatever without the locker it's
all very similar it's just a matter of
very important to adjust the preload and
the
Lash now I know I did say I was going to
pull out the axles fully just enough
to uh so I was able to pull the
different diff
out but I've noticed something I'm going
to show you in a second well the
difference between pulling it enough and
pulling it fully is is this the parking
brake line to get to that you need to
remove the parking
brakes but as soon as I pulled it pulled
the axles away well one side which was
the right side the less the more quiet
one remember I there was a little bit of
noise on the left side uh super quiet on
the right side so this is the super
quiet
side now I did clean
off this brown tan
Tanish kind of uh grease and you can see
this bearing is
leaking okay it was a you know quite a
bit of it all around I did wipe that
off but you can see what's going on over
here so no I mean this this needs to be
replaced okay but if I spin
[Music]
this I there is some noise but it's not
it's not
bad now this guy here this guy is
leaking something
else this
is to me this looks
like moisture and
grease all
going coming out through the
seal okay you can see how
wet this is this should be dry you know
more or less cuz remember there's a
seal right here
too so I doubt that this is from the
outside because it's oily
okay this is oily stuff but this one is
not so
quiet you hear
that so what
if what if the way this is built what if
that
sound from the bearings
this one is bad obviously the left side
is traveling into the diff uh while I
was standing outside by the wheel it was
very noisy it it sounded exactly like
the noise when I
drive but sitting and listening through
the stereoscope uh to the diff
underneath the
car it uh sounded like more grindy not
not instead of a howl it was a more
grindy noise
so I think just for science for you guys
you know for myself I'm not going to do
the
diff I'm only going to do the bearings I
mean you could argue that
this this is also part of the axle I
mean part of the
bearing this guy
here just this this metal piece around
and this that's also part of the bearing
okay I mean the bearing you know inside
there that's the
bearing so it could you could argue that
it could travel right through here
through this B you know uh studs and
down the the
tube into the diff I am tempted to take
the diff apart you know and just I got
the parts just do the bearings and all
that stuff I mean if if you're a
mechanic then you might know sometimes
if you someone comes in with a you know
bearing
noise uh Nissan in particular they can
be kind of confusing where the noise is
coming from uh you're going to change a
bearing thinking it's a bearing and it's
going to be something else uh not
besides the tire issue you know uneven
wear on tires which also makes a very
similar bearing
noise uh could be like the the little
bearing on the intermediate shaft
traveling into the bearing and vice
versa you know example this is a good
example so I think I'm just going
to just to find
out if I'm right or wrong I'm only going
to do the rear bearings leave the diff
alone and see see what we come up with
all right guys update on the on the rear
bearings I'm doing two videos at once
I'm doing the the radio install
video and doing the diff bearing noise
video so here are the races
I got three because one just got
destroyed and I don't know where it
went but on this one this is the more
slightly more noisy one left one there
is some tiny
pitting on the race which you're
probably not going to
see this one is just polished
and here we
have kind of
both more polish than pitting so I know
for a fact that both bearings were
bad inside there you have quite a bit of
moisture the grease is just you know
it's it's done no I'm sorry this is the
one that leaked out this is the moisture
one look at the
difference in the GRE
so this is the rear left this is the
right so I'm pretty sure I mean it's
obvious the bearings were bad and making
noise for sure I did buy me this special
tool to do the bearings but I didn't
realize that this part here this guy
right here would not fit through my
Harbor
Freight
press or bench I guess through here cuz
the way this works is you rest
it on that bench you have the axle in
this attaches to the to the bolts from
the bearing you know the back plate and
all that stuff so you're holding on to
the bearing and you're pushing the axle
down with your
press but but this needs to rest on
something right so this didn't fit the
idea is to you know fit it through and
then twist Ted and this lays down on the
Press so I had to build
something so I built this I had these
pieces I actually went for to Home Depot
and I bought this piece this thick ass
piece of metal welded it together still
wasn't enough so I welded these two this
is what I
had and it worked now I have a rear
bearing toyora Nissan Isuzu possibly
something else very tool which was 180
bucks for the two pieces Amazon but it
worked out I got a chance to clean some
stuff this back plate was bent actually
while I hit on the Press I used a pry
bar and well unbent it so I got to put
the parking brakes back on and just just
you know basically put it all back
together guys Quick Test just started it
30 seconds
ago not going to bother turning it
turning the wheels faster uping the RPMs
cuz I already I did the brakes too new
rotors new pads so they are rubbing a
little bit but there's less
noise at the
wheels but I still
hear something some kind of noise
traveling from the center or something I
don't
know it is definitely less
noisy I guess got to drive it back to
square
one well not entirely so I did drive it
late last
night and it's still making the humming
noise but now it's now you can kind
of really tell it apart that it's coming
right from from the middle
so got to do it all over again well it
is less
work I don't have to dismantle the
parking brakes that's a lot a lot of
work saved right there but the bearings
were bad so had to be done anyways so
didn't really lose anything
just little little bit of time guys
20 25 20 25 minutes later all you got to
do well 07 two runner
V8 all you got to do is I did cut this
open few days ago when I was removing
the axles so I don't know why they they
do it you know if this wasn't cut then
you have to remove
the uh brake line from the brake hose
and then you got to bleed the brakes and
blah so just do yourself a favor if
you're going to do this just cut this
open just so the hard line goes through
you're going to remove this 12 here's
some light this 12 mil here 12 mil here
the four 17 mil nuts
hold the bearing on and you probably may
even get away without removing the the
whole caliper bracket because this hose
is long
enough uh to stretch you know this far I
mean you can see but since I got it
off the bolts first anyway just flipped
it over and this is it oh yeah and don't
forget the
ABS speed sensor
here and that's it that's how you're
doing and don't worry about the seal
this is
probably 28 of an inch well maybe an
eigh away it's not resting on the seal
at all I'm going to wait for a little
longer for this to drain I did save on
the oil a little bit I'm going to use
this to top it off because it takes
three and a
bit uh when fully
dry I did I do have brand new oil this
is what I'm actually putting in for
towing this is same just a different
container yeah keep something underneath
the axos cuz that's going to leak too
now drive shaft I I actually never even
looked at it it's I think it's four
usually it's four nuts four bolts four
nuts and then the nuts or bolts around
the diff should be easy all right so
four nuts with washers
okay uh 14 mil with washers and then uh
whatever amount what is this one
10 10 12 mil nuts with washers also is
it yeah it is 10 I also did take the
sway bar
off uh the bushing
area four allog together both sides four
12 mil bolts and then basically pushed
it down to relieve this hook on both
sides and then pulled it or pushed it up
and just shoved it no bunge cord
necessary it's going to give you the
room to take the diff out and
look where the axle sits that's what you
need to clear you're going to feel that
actually maybe even less less than
that to clear the
diff what's on the bottom
oh it's clean oil I'm going to dig
through that a little later see if I
find any chunks or whatnot but I doubt
it so that's it for taking that
out let's look at the diff all right
well I mean there it
is this is an open diff meaning it's got
spider gears inside and that's it no
clutches
no no nothing
there I think you may be able to see the
spider
gears okay and that's
it so I think so see you can see where
the axle comes out so that's even way
too far actually let's uh see so the
bolt you got another half an inch and
this is basically way inside there so
you don't even have so that's 2 in too
far so yeah so I'd say about pull it out
about 4 in or whatever you got you know
first going to I'm going to
measure the Lash the movement let me put
you down the movement between the ring
gear and the pinion
gear very little I would say it's it's
in
Spec so I'm not even going to bother
should be 7,000 I believe 7
8,000 or or between 6 and 8 something
like that so I do have a set of bearings
let's actually look at that so this came
from arone believe it or not this is the
part
number they're all the same I hope this
fits and it's got the coyo and timkin
bearings here you got
the the drive shaft seal or the pinion
seal crash washer I don't know what
these are for brand new bolts oh we're
not taking that off are we I think these
are it yeah we're not taking this off so
no need to worry about
that and these two are for the carrier
bearing by timkin made in Japan and
these are coyo this would be the the
bigger opinion and this would be the
smaller opinion very closer to the front
or the drive shift and you got we got
some paint
Loctite and a brush which is nice this
whole set
cost $300 or so you know this is a lot
of well it's going to be a lot of work
so I'm not putting anything made from
chinesium you know what I'm saying in
here mm better pay more even double for
whatever the the cheapest is I even I
didn't even look at the cheapest and get
it done right obviously want to check
all the teeth these look good not worn
out I'm going check for chips same on
the on the pinion
gear there it
is looks good from here just you know
polished but mainly we're after the
bearings I'm going to mark first I'm
going to Mark the Caps you know with a
punch like do a one and one hole or Mark
do two and two this will tell me these
got to go back to its original spot uh
undo these well then then going to take
these off these will the cats will come
off this whole differential will come
out I'm going to put it aside we're
going to knock out the pinion
gear you know do the knot there whatever
size that is look at all those bearings
got an update and a good one so these
would be the carrier or the diff
bearings the the side ones left and
right and there is a
tiny tiny amount of pitting and lines
here and there this camera sucks at
closeup but I'm going to try and I mean
maybe you you can see it on your big
screen monitor you know not on your
phone
but you know what I mean
so it's and it's actually shows an even
wear and let's the the other side looks
pretty much same and we can let's look
at the races this dark spot that's
probably from heat and more pitting and
this guy just has uneven wear and I I
hope you guys
can see this but see this bright stuff
and then there is more
dark
here dark area bright area just uneven
wear so these were definitely making
noise let's look at the the biggest guy
of them
all again again a little bit of pitting
and just lines going
across tiny tiny dots and
lines right here you can see
a I don't know if you're going to see it
but there's line just a big old line
right across the bottom there and here's
the race of that same
bearing just you know same basically as
the bearings themselves let's flip this
over look at the main the
boss the boss that
caused all these issues well you
know the main culprit here check this
out man I sure hope you guys are going
to be able to see this this is the whole
point of this
video I mean you can even hear
it especially this guy here can you see
this
you see the pitting heavy
pitting on this roller
especially heavy heavy pitting so this
guy was making most of the
noise and check out the
Rays you can see the the dots just
pitting everywhere just all of them
across the board every possible bearing
in the back including the axle bearings
making noise bastards ganged up on me
and just
started you know everywhere well still
got to pull out the races pull off the
bearings so I'm not going to do any more
updates I need to get this done today it
is it's almost 5:00
p.m. I'm probably not going to get it
done today the guy you want to watch is
the Practical mechanic and that is it
all right guys enough talk
let's you know fix it and we're going to
hopefully bring the good
news guys
update final I think so here's
everything that has been done all
possible bearings in the
rear besides the
transmission
and and we also did the front bearings
but they're not on the table so these
are the rear axle bearings somewhere
here are the
races and this guy in the front of the
diff where the shaft is that was the
main issue main noise and this is how I
took out that race from the
inside and I tried the
same
concept uh you know welding a bead
of weld around the race but this one and
this is on this was under the pinion
shaft but this one did not come out I
had to cut it open and then I what I did
was on several of
these and this one as well I basically I
took an air hammer and just started
hammering right over here until it broke
didn't want
to grind the pinion itself where where
the bearing where the race sits on all
right so I already did the up in the air
spin test
and I can tell you already that it's
it's just it's it's pure silence it's
like can hear nothing okay from the diff
didn't drive it yet wanted to leave
it wanted to see my own
expression when I you know when I'm out
there driving it for the first time so
let's take it for a spin
all right guys just pulled
out not even doing
10 let's go
faster finally
30 m
hour man it's so quiet in
here oh man I drove
this probably about 1300 miles maybe a
little over with that noise all kinds of
noises front bearings rear bearings rear
diff The Idler pulley still got to
replace the the serpentine belt
tensioner pull end
tensioner but man this is so much
nicer now I can
tell this thing really just drives like
brand
new awesome well this kind of proves to
you
that you know if you're buying a car out
in the parking lot it can it might cost
you you know and I think uh can't really
tell you uh I also IO bought a set uh
timing uh belt kit with water pump you
know um also doing the radiator I got
not it's not a leak it's kind of dirty
but I just you know I want to make it
perfect so replacing that too now Parts
most parts were from R Auto not the
cheapest Parts remember that uh they do
have Co timkin
bearings uh NTS
uh CFS uh radiator which I've been
waiting for uh for quite some time uh as
timing kit so I'm actually buying good
stuff quality stuff original stuff just
by cheaper price
basically uh so what have we done we
have
done well all the bearings but like I
mentioned still going to do the timing
set timing kit did rear pads and
rotors uh the rotors were too far gone
although I had plenty me meat plenty of
meat on the pads the rotors could not be
cut they were garbage so I ended up
buying the whole new set that was cheap
actually I paid 150
bucks uh all the various Clips you know
the painting The the rust proofing all
that stuff I think it I'm probably in
like $3,000 or so maybe not maybe less I
don't know remember I did it all myself
so if you were to buy this and you would
not be able to do any of it yourself you
would have to to pay a shop to do it
You' be paying a
lot uh and you would not have it
done for example the the painting of the
frame I doubt that anyone else would do
such a good job detailed job like like I
have done to my own
vehicle uh you know so
just just be careful what you're buying
take it to a mechanic
oh yeah tires also got new
tires man this
is I've been waiting for this
moment oh man since I bought this thing
nice all right guys this is
it I want to bore you too much but uh
yeah kind of a a
lesson kind of a lesson
learned all right guys if anyway this
helped you out like subscribe it didn't
help you out dislike whatever
comment do something all right guys see
you later