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4th Gen Toyota 4Runner wheel and differential bearing noises

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The video documents the diagnostic process and repair of persistent humming and grinding noises in a 2007 Toyota 4Runner, which the owner drove over 1,200 miles from Houston to Chicago. Initially suspecting worn tires due to uneven tread wear patterns, the mechanic discovered that tire replacement did not resolve the issue. After addressing front wheel bearing play and pulley problems, attention shifted to the rear differential assembly. Using a stethoscope while the vehicle was raised and driven in neutral, the owner isolated the noise sources, noting distinct differences between the humming sound heard from outside versus the grinding sounds detected when listening directly to the differential carrier and pinion shaft bearings. Upon disassembly, the mechanic found that all four rear axle bearings were defective, exhibiting significant pitting, lines of wear, and moisture leakage through the seals. The investigation revealed that the noise was not isolated to a single component but rather a combination of failing bearings on both sides of the differential carrier and the pinion shaft. The owner decided against rebuilding the entire differential gear set to save costs and time, opting instead to replace only the bearings and races. This involved custom fabricating tools to press out stubborn races from inside the housing after cutting open the brake line clamp to avoid bleeding the brakes, a technique recommended for future reference. After installing high-quality Timken and Coyo bearings along with new seals and adjusting the preload and lash, the mechanic completed the repair by also replacing rotors, pads, and other worn components like the timing belt kit. A final test drive confirmed that the vehicle was now virtually silent, proving that the noise originated entirely from the rear axle bearings rather than the ring and pinion gears. The video concludes with a lesson on the importance of thorough diagnostics before major repairs and highlights the significant cost savings achieved by performing the complex work personally, estimating total project costs around $3,000 including parts and custom fabrication.
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[Applause] hey guys welcome to another well this time it's going to be a diagnosis video how to diagnose your car noises in my case 07 Toyota 4Runner rear wheel drive I know it's a two runner some of you may know that I actually drove this car from Texas Houston from Houston all the way back to Chicago area because it has no rust but for the 1200 and something miles I had a loud kind of a humming noise sounded like possibly bad tires which they were uh possibly rear bearings or a possible rear diff bearing or even uh pinion or ring gear so let's the easiest fix would be tires you know I sure was hoping it was the tires but because when I looked at them while still you know at Houston buying the car or truck you can see that the threads are if you look at [Music] them well let's I guess from top view in this case you can see that this thread for example is lower this one's higher lower higher it's these it's got these scales going on and you can also see that like for example this part is kind of more black this is more dirty more black dirty so this means that this is contacting the road this is not you know it's just you can kind of see that it continues and I was told that these tires were put on for some reason by the previous owner in the rear why I don't know I I never will I maybe was lied to who knows and now I suspect that well I think the rear diff is has to be replaced well bearings hopefully just bearings at this point not the our uh gears hey uh previous owner if you're watching this I'm not mad it's okay I forgive you so as you can see I did repl tires but blue paint is still coming off these are brand spanking new all four all the same and it wasn't the tires M I actually had some play in the front wheels too I did replace bearings uh by coyo bearings by coyo and it wasn't the noise I had noise in the front but that was an easy fix it was a combination of the bearings and the this either pulley check this out I actually diagnosed this the same exact way we're going to diagnose the rear diff and the rear bearings cuz there is no play in them and even if there is play in some bearings hubs whatever you got they won't necessarily make noise with play in them all right so using this stetoscope this tool this doctor tool or if you don't have that this is cheap it's like 10 bucks or this okay with a screwdriver anything that's long and you can put it to the bearing or whatever and your ear and it's best if it's a if it's metal through and through like this guy here obviously you're going to raise if you got all-wheel drive four-wheel drive ra raise the whole vehicle if you have only rear wheel drive or front wheel drive raise that part of the vehicle obviously we're going to pop the door we're going to start the vehicle going to put it in Drive wheels are are spinning now but you can see or not I don't know as soon as I come close to the throttle you hear that noise I'm trying to accelerate and the RPMs are going down so I can really spin them any faster so you can see I mean you can still diagnose but it's better if they spin faster and throw it throw it back in neutral and just shut it off I'm going to go under the hood now this is only for the 07 okay 08 maybe 07 and down 08 and up or yeah Wai up have your the V VSC button you can turn those uh your traction control off on this guy you pull the this this guy here let's try this [Music] again all right check this out we got some vssc track light on and the traction control and I can hear the noise from here all kinds of Lights man that is loud can you hear that could that be the bearing [Music] all right I thought I was going to put a pipe against the seat uh against the seat and I keep keep it uh you know RPMs up but I don't have to it's for some reason staying at 40 mph which is plenty when I get underneath no this is not dangerous the car is not going to fly off the lift [Music] quiet that's quiet this one is a little bit noisy but not much all right so this is a little bit little confusing okay let me explain listen [Music] I don't know if you can hear the difference I had to uh go back inside and use that pipe and raise the RPMs a little bit cuz it was actually slowing down but that's how that's by the way how you turn off your traction control just by pulling that plug from the uh master on their Reservoir thing anyways let's let's talk about okay this is a kind of a weird situation and confusing let's just take one side for example okay so it looked like it well it sounded like the noise was coming from the bearings okay standing outside but using the stereoscope and listening right here where the bearing is obviously this is quiet it gets louder and louder every 2 3 in or so as you get closer to the the carrier uh right here and you have your ring gear right here spinning this way and you have a bearing here and you got a bearing here okay there's total of four bearings in this rear differential there's sometimes five you know or whatever but this one is four there's one one here one here and there's two more on the pinion gear on the pinion shaft uh where where the ring gear or the pinion gear is and it's there's a lot of noise right over here from both evenly from both but if you just kind of put your head over here it's a different kind of sound this makes kind of a kind of grindy sound like you know and from the outside when you're standing by the wheel on the outside it makes more of a humming noise like you know so it's a versus a and there's more right on the right on the bearing which is right in here there's another bearing there's a whole lot of noise here and there's another bearing right here almost no noise here obviously different noises transfer through metal easily but out of the out of all the the carrier case right over here it's the least noisy okay most of it it's right right here this is most of the noise and then right at the shaft uh flange right there now the left side bearing is a tiny bit more noisy than the right side but still I I don't know um I'm going to take a Gamble and and say that it is the the rear differential which is a bummer I already ordered parts coyo uh Rock AO actually has a set a rebuilt kit which includes bolts gasket um four bearings uh you know races obviously um a Crush Washer some something else I forget anyways and it's not really all that difficult to remove um the the Dropout uh differential on at least on this year uh what you got to do is remove the drive shaft remove the what I'm going to do and I hope it's going to work I'm going to remove this clamp on the brake line here on top cuz this is steel and this part is rubber and remove the caliper Brack with the bracket all together leave the the brakes you know right in this vicinity uh also got to remove the parking brake line which is just behind there um and then these four nuts here here I think look like 17s then you should be able to slide the axles out a little bit four maybe 5 in just to clear the case probably 4 in is enough and they can just rest you know still inside all the axle can rest on the inside there no need to pull them out all together and then this thing will uh well there's obviously there's bolts on the other side there drain the oil and this will slide out and then you got to remove all the bearings the races the seal you know and then drive in new bearings put in a new seal adjust preload lash easy nothing to do it should be done in no time hopefully the Rings are in good condition cuz then it's going to get pricey and Land Cruiser different Tacomas whatever without the locker it's all very similar it's just a matter of very important to adjust the preload and the Lash now I know I did say I was going to pull out the axles fully just enough to uh so I was able to pull the different diff out but I've noticed something I'm going to show you in a second well the difference between pulling it enough and pulling it fully is is this the parking brake line to get to that you need to remove the parking brakes but as soon as I pulled it pulled the axles away well one side which was the right side the less the more quiet one remember I there was a little bit of noise on the left side uh super quiet on the right side so this is the super quiet side now I did clean off this brown tan Tanish kind of uh grease and you can see this bearing is leaking okay it was a you know quite a bit of it all around I did wipe that off but you can see what's going on over here so no I mean this this needs to be replaced okay but if I spin [Music] this I there is some noise but it's not it's not bad now this guy here this guy is leaking something else this is to me this looks like moisture and grease all going coming out through the seal okay you can see how wet this is this should be dry you know more or less cuz remember there's a seal right here too so I doubt that this is from the outside because it's oily okay this is oily stuff but this one is not so quiet you hear that so what if what if the way this is built what if that sound from the bearings this one is bad obviously the left side is traveling into the diff uh while I was standing outside by the wheel it was very noisy it it sounded exactly like the noise when I drive but sitting and listening through the stereoscope uh to the diff underneath the car it uh sounded like more grindy not not instead of a howl it was a more grindy noise so I think just for science for you guys you know for myself I'm not going to do the diff I'm only going to do the bearings I mean you could argue that this this is also part of the axle I mean part of the bearing this guy here just this this metal piece around and this that's also part of the bearing okay I mean the bearing you know inside there that's the bearing so it could you could argue that it could travel right through here through this B you know uh studs and down the the tube into the diff I am tempted to take the diff apart you know and just I got the parts just do the bearings and all that stuff I mean if if you're a mechanic then you might know sometimes if you someone comes in with a you know bearing noise uh Nissan in particular they can be kind of confusing where the noise is coming from uh you're going to change a bearing thinking it's a bearing and it's going to be something else uh not besides the tire issue you know uneven wear on tires which also makes a very similar bearing noise uh could be like the the little bearing on the intermediate shaft traveling into the bearing and vice versa you know example this is a good example so I think I'm just going to just to find out if I'm right or wrong I'm only going to do the rear bearings leave the diff alone and see see what we come up with all right guys update on the on the rear bearings I'm doing two videos at once I'm doing the the radio install video and doing the diff bearing noise video so here are the races I got three because one just got destroyed and I don't know where it went but on this one this is the more slightly more noisy one left one there is some tiny pitting on the race which you're probably not going to see this one is just polished and here we have kind of both more polish than pitting so I know for a fact that both bearings were bad inside there you have quite a bit of moisture the grease is just you know it's it's done no I'm sorry this is the one that leaked out this is the moisture one look at the difference in the GRE so this is the rear left this is the right so I'm pretty sure I mean it's obvious the bearings were bad and making noise for sure I did buy me this special tool to do the bearings but I didn't realize that this part here this guy right here would not fit through my Harbor Freight press or bench I guess through here cuz the way this works is you rest it on that bench you have the axle in this attaches to the to the bolts from the bearing you know the back plate and all that stuff so you're holding on to the bearing and you're pushing the axle down with your press but but this needs to rest on something right so this didn't fit the idea is to you know fit it through and then twist Ted and this lays down on the Press so I had to build something so I built this I had these pieces I actually went for to Home Depot and I bought this piece this thick ass piece of metal welded it together still wasn't enough so I welded these two this is what I had and it worked now I have a rear bearing toyora Nissan Isuzu possibly something else very tool which was 180 bucks for the two pieces Amazon but it worked out I got a chance to clean some stuff this back plate was bent actually while I hit on the Press I used a pry bar and well unbent it so I got to put the parking brakes back on and just just you know basically put it all back together guys Quick Test just started it 30 seconds ago not going to bother turning it turning the wheels faster uping the RPMs cuz I already I did the brakes too new rotors new pads so they are rubbing a little bit but there's less noise at the wheels but I still hear something some kind of noise traveling from the center or something I don't know it is definitely less noisy I guess got to drive it back to square one well not entirely so I did drive it late last night and it's still making the humming noise but now it's now you can kind of really tell it apart that it's coming right from from the middle so got to do it all over again well it is less work I don't have to dismantle the parking brakes that's a lot a lot of work saved right there but the bearings were bad so had to be done anyways so didn't really lose anything just little little bit of time guys 20 25 20 25 minutes later all you got to do well 07 two runner V8 all you got to do is I did cut this open few days ago when I was removing the axles so I don't know why they they do it you know if this wasn't cut then you have to remove the uh brake line from the brake hose and then you got to bleed the brakes and blah so just do yourself a favor if you're going to do this just cut this open just so the hard line goes through you're going to remove this 12 here's some light this 12 mil here 12 mil here the four 17 mil nuts hold the bearing on and you probably may even get away without removing the the whole caliper bracket because this hose is long enough uh to stretch you know this far I mean you can see but since I got it off the bolts first anyway just flipped it over and this is it oh yeah and don't forget the ABS speed sensor here and that's it that's how you're doing and don't worry about the seal this is probably 28 of an inch well maybe an eigh away it's not resting on the seal at all I'm going to wait for a little longer for this to drain I did save on the oil a little bit I'm going to use this to top it off because it takes three and a bit uh when fully dry I did I do have brand new oil this is what I'm actually putting in for towing this is same just a different container yeah keep something underneath the axos cuz that's going to leak too now drive shaft I I actually never even looked at it it's I think it's four usually it's four nuts four bolts four nuts and then the nuts or bolts around the diff should be easy all right so four nuts with washers okay uh 14 mil with washers and then uh whatever amount what is this one 10 10 12 mil nuts with washers also is it yeah it is 10 I also did take the sway bar off uh the bushing area four allog together both sides four 12 mil bolts and then basically pushed it down to relieve this hook on both sides and then pulled it or pushed it up and just shoved it no bunge cord necessary it's going to give you the room to take the diff out and look where the axle sits that's what you need to clear you're going to feel that actually maybe even less less than that to clear the diff what's on the bottom oh it's clean oil I'm going to dig through that a little later see if I find any chunks or whatnot but I doubt it so that's it for taking that out let's look at the diff all right well I mean there it is this is an open diff meaning it's got spider gears inside and that's it no clutches no no nothing there I think you may be able to see the spider gears okay and that's it so I think so see you can see where the axle comes out so that's even way too far actually let's uh see so the bolt you got another half an inch and this is basically way inside there so you don't even have so that's 2 in too far so yeah so I'd say about pull it out about 4 in or whatever you got you know first going to I'm going to measure the Lash the movement let me put you down the movement between the ring gear and the pinion gear very little I would say it's it's in Spec so I'm not even going to bother should be 7,000 I believe 7 8,000 or or between 6 and 8 something like that so I do have a set of bearings let's actually look at that so this came from arone believe it or not this is the part number they're all the same I hope this fits and it's got the coyo and timkin bearings here you got the the drive shaft seal or the pinion seal crash washer I don't know what these are for brand new bolts oh we're not taking that off are we I think these are it yeah we're not taking this off so no need to worry about that and these two are for the carrier bearing by timkin made in Japan and these are coyo this would be the the bigger opinion and this would be the smaller opinion very closer to the front or the drive shift and you got we got some paint Loctite and a brush which is nice this whole set cost $300 or so you know this is a lot of well it's going to be a lot of work so I'm not putting anything made from chinesium you know what I'm saying in here mm better pay more even double for whatever the the cheapest is I even I didn't even look at the cheapest and get it done right obviously want to check all the teeth these look good not worn out I'm going check for chips same on the on the pinion gear there it is looks good from here just you know polished but mainly we're after the bearings I'm going to mark first I'm going to Mark the Caps you know with a punch like do a one and one hole or Mark do two and two this will tell me these got to go back to its original spot uh undo these well then then going to take these off these will the cats will come off this whole differential will come out I'm going to put it aside we're going to knock out the pinion gear you know do the knot there whatever size that is look at all those bearings got an update and a good one so these would be the carrier or the diff bearings the the side ones left and right and there is a tiny tiny amount of pitting and lines here and there this camera sucks at closeup but I'm going to try and I mean maybe you you can see it on your big screen monitor you know not on your phone but you know what I mean so it's and it's actually shows an even wear and let's the the other side looks pretty much same and we can let's look at the races this dark spot that's probably from heat and more pitting and this guy just has uneven wear and I I hope you guys can see this but see this bright stuff and then there is more dark here dark area bright area just uneven wear so these were definitely making noise let's look at the the biggest guy of them all again again a little bit of pitting and just lines going across tiny tiny dots and lines right here you can see a I don't know if you're going to see it but there's line just a big old line right across the bottom there and here's the race of that same bearing just you know same basically as the bearings themselves let's flip this over look at the main the boss the boss that caused all these issues well you know the main culprit here check this out man I sure hope you guys are going to be able to see this this is the whole point of this video I mean you can even hear it especially this guy here can you see this you see the pitting heavy pitting on this roller especially heavy heavy pitting so this guy was making most of the noise and check out the Rays you can see the the dots just pitting everywhere just all of them across the board every possible bearing in the back including the axle bearings making noise bastards ganged up on me and just started you know everywhere well still got to pull out the races pull off the bearings so I'm not going to do any more updates I need to get this done today it is it's almost 5:00 p.m. I'm probably not going to get it done today the guy you want to watch is the Practical mechanic and that is it all right guys enough talk let's you know fix it and we're going to hopefully bring the good news guys update final I think so here's everything that has been done all possible bearings in the rear besides the transmission and and we also did the front bearings but they're not on the table so these are the rear axle bearings somewhere here are the races and this guy in the front of the diff where the shaft is that was the main issue main noise and this is how I took out that race from the inside and I tried the same concept uh you know welding a bead of weld around the race but this one and this is on this was under the pinion shaft but this one did not come out I had to cut it open and then I what I did was on several of these and this one as well I basically I took an air hammer and just started hammering right over here until it broke didn't want to grind the pinion itself where where the bearing where the race sits on all right so I already did the up in the air spin test and I can tell you already that it's it's just it's it's pure silence it's like can hear nothing okay from the diff didn't drive it yet wanted to leave it wanted to see my own expression when I you know when I'm out there driving it for the first time so let's take it for a spin all right guys just pulled out not even doing 10 let's go faster finally 30 m hour man it's so quiet in here oh man I drove this probably about 1300 miles maybe a little over with that noise all kinds of noises front bearings rear bearings rear diff The Idler pulley still got to replace the the serpentine belt tensioner pull end tensioner but man this is so much nicer now I can tell this thing really just drives like brand new awesome well this kind of proves to you that you know if you're buying a car out in the parking lot it can it might cost you you know and I think uh can't really tell you uh I also IO bought a set uh timing uh belt kit with water pump you know um also doing the radiator I got not it's not a leak it's kind of dirty but I just you know I want to make it perfect so replacing that too now Parts most parts were from R Auto not the cheapest Parts remember that uh they do have Co timkin bearings uh NTS uh CFS uh radiator which I've been waiting for uh for quite some time uh as timing kit so I'm actually buying good stuff quality stuff original stuff just by cheaper price basically uh so what have we done we have done well all the bearings but like I mentioned still going to do the timing set timing kit did rear pads and rotors uh the rotors were too far gone although I had plenty me meat plenty of meat on the pads the rotors could not be cut they were garbage so I ended up buying the whole new set that was cheap actually I paid 150 bucks uh all the various Clips you know the painting The the rust proofing all that stuff I think it I'm probably in like $3,000 or so maybe not maybe less I don't know remember I did it all myself so if you were to buy this and you would not be able to do any of it yourself you would have to to pay a shop to do it You' be paying a lot uh and you would not have it done for example the the painting of the frame I doubt that anyone else would do such a good job detailed job like like I have done to my own vehicle uh you know so just just be careful what you're buying take it to a mechanic oh yeah tires also got new tires man this is I've been waiting for this moment oh man since I bought this thing nice all right guys this is it I want to bore you too much but uh yeah kind of a a lesson kind of a lesson learned all right guys if anyway this helped you out like subscribe it didn't help you out dislike whatever comment do something all right guys see you later